AirVape Legacy Pro
- Thread starter JohnJacobs
- Start date
Adobewan
Well-Known Member
Nice share @Archibald , that's awesome and heartbreaking. I'd have loved all those accessories with mine.
Anybody on the fence for this vape should jump in this. The accessories look great, and the vape is top-of-the-line!
I'm on my 2nd AVLP, the first had an issue under warranty. Customer service was excellent.
I research all of my product purchases extensively. I do not have any personal use experience with other vapes.
I had difficulty for a long time in getting the heating chamber to clean. There were dark stains but it still seemed to work fine. I tried rags and paper towels with isopropyl. What finally worked was the Alcohol Prep Pad that came in the box. It is 70% isopropyl with what appears to be cloth pad - I suspect the cloth pad was able to clean better than paper or cloth rags. I was also able to clean one dosing capsule. They have strange orange coloring inside the capsule and on the bottom of the outside. The next time I used a Alcohol Prep Pad on a different dosing capsule it didn't clean it. I am perplexed. I have 1/6 clean dosing capsules.
I'll tease some future comments to say I think bluetooth and an app could be cool. All kinds of features could be useful like timers and dose tracking.
Now I'm going to rant about a part of the design which is unique which is the airpath. The airpath disk's perforations are not centered on the face. This has consequences in cleaning, and if off-center enough partial reduction in flow. I don't believe this has any significant impact on performance.
The airpath disk's function varies depending on whether the dosing capsules are used with herbs. The disk has the smallest holes of any of the airpath filters and dosing capsule. The tiny holes on the airpath disk tend to obstruct rather quickly with cannabis oil. These holes prevent herb from moving into the airpath. I see obstruction by holding the disk up to a light source like computer monitor.
The dosing capsules will sometimes adhere to the airpath disk because of the sticky substance, but this is inconsequential. What could be considered is the sealing of the dosing capsule to the heating chamber on the bottom and the airpath disk on top. I think because of the steep sides of the heating chamber, the distance between the chamber side and the dosing capsule is small enough that most airflow is through the capsule and herb. Secondly, the lip of the dosing capsule tends to seal against the airpath disk, minimizing air bypassing the capsule.
Next consider the function of the airpath disk's perforations. It has two sets of perforations, one facing the dosing capsule's lid, and one set of larger perforations around the airpath disk perimeter. The small perforations on one side and larger on the other and the large space under the rubber piece I believe helps to make the airflow mostly uniform enough through the herb. But, when the smallest perforations become blocked the device seems to continue to work just fine. In addition, crud seems to buildup on the little lip of the dosing capsule lid, indicating to me that airflow is not solely through the airpath disk's perforations, but between its edge and the dosing capsule's lid's edge.
A thing to know to understand the airflow is that the airpath disk seals against the rubber when it's almost fully tightened on the threads. I suspect but am not sure at all, that the airpath disk's smallest holes become easily clogged because not much airflow is happening to keep drawing oil through but instead it is depositing and becoming obstructed.
When drawing air, the dosing capsule pulls up against the airpath disk. You can hear it. After drawing, the capsule falls or rests into the heating chamber if the device is oriented less than vertical. I think while not taking a draw, it is probably better for the capsule to rest in the heating chamber. I did not consider this in any regular usage of the device. Even past vertical, the capsule probably rests against a side of the heating chamber bowl, which is better than nothing.
I research all of my product purchases extensively. I do not have any personal use experience with other vapes.
I had difficulty for a long time in getting the heating chamber to clean. There were dark stains but it still seemed to work fine. I tried rags and paper towels with isopropyl. What finally worked was the Alcohol Prep Pad that came in the box. It is 70% isopropyl with what appears to be cloth pad - I suspect the cloth pad was able to clean better than paper or cloth rags. I was also able to clean one dosing capsule. They have strange orange coloring inside the capsule and on the bottom of the outside. The next time I used a Alcohol Prep Pad on a different dosing capsule it didn't clean it. I am perplexed. I have 1/6 clean dosing capsules.
I'll tease some future comments to say I think bluetooth and an app could be cool. All kinds of features could be useful like timers and dose tracking.
Now I'm going to rant about a part of the design which is unique which is the airpath. The airpath disk's perforations are not centered on the face. This has consequences in cleaning, and if off-center enough partial reduction in flow. I don't believe this has any significant impact on performance.
The airpath disk's function varies depending on whether the dosing capsules are used with herbs. The disk has the smallest holes of any of the airpath filters and dosing capsule. The tiny holes on the airpath disk tend to obstruct rather quickly with cannabis oil. These holes prevent herb from moving into the airpath. I see obstruction by holding the disk up to a light source like computer monitor.
The dosing capsules will sometimes adhere to the airpath disk because of the sticky substance, but this is inconsequential. What could be considered is the sealing of the dosing capsule to the heating chamber on the bottom and the airpath disk on top. I think because of the steep sides of the heating chamber, the distance between the chamber side and the dosing capsule is small enough that most airflow is through the capsule and herb. Secondly, the lip of the dosing capsule tends to seal against the airpath disk, minimizing air bypassing the capsule.
Next consider the function of the airpath disk's perforations. It has two sets of perforations, one facing the dosing capsule's lid, and one set of larger perforations around the airpath disk perimeter. The small perforations on one side and larger on the other and the large space under the rubber piece I believe helps to make the airflow mostly uniform enough through the herb. But, when the smallest perforations become blocked the device seems to continue to work just fine. In addition, crud seems to buildup on the little lip of the dosing capsule lid, indicating to me that airflow is not solely through the airpath disk's perforations, but between its edge and the dosing capsule's lid's edge.
A thing to know to understand the airflow is that the airpath disk seals against the rubber when it's almost fully tightened on the threads. I suspect but am not sure at all, that the airpath disk's smallest holes become easily clogged because not much airflow is happening to keep drawing oil through but instead it is depositing and becoming obstructed.
When drawing air, the dosing capsule pulls up against the airpath disk. You can hear it. After drawing, the capsule falls or rests into the heating chamber if the device is oriented less than vertical. I think while not taking a draw, it is probably better for the capsule to rest in the heating chamber. I did not consider this in any regular usage of the device. Even past vertical, the capsule probably rests against a side of the heating chamber bowl, which is better than nothing.
kegstandman420
Well-Known Member
Agreed I took out the disc, the tiny little screen and the screen in the mouthpiece since i always use caps. With the ruby stem most of the gunk gets caught there. I've also found that rouge wax works intercooler for dynavap fits perfects in the original glass stem.
seedy53
Well-Known Member
i have both units the og version i modded . by removing disc and little oven screen and used the ruby 4in glass tube and the steam punk version i left completely stock. i did side by side comparisons native, j-hooks, water bongs.
results were minimal performance difference, nearly the same performance if you keep both machines clean. i stand by this test. if you go over 1 to 2 weeks without cleaning of any kind, the modded version performs better. that's the biggy difference.
i keep my shit clean. i wipe down of my avlp daily, the oven and little oven screen, and once a week, i do a deep cleaning using proxy brush or cleaning tool and baby nose q-tips/91% iso.
my big deep cleaning takes less than 8 to 10 mins, once you get the all cleaning products, cleaning tools, and working cleaning methods down well.
daily wipe down takes 2 min.
btw get 2pc of 4in glass tubes, so you can switch them out . very fast method clean, one use one. soak one, in iso
seedy53
Well-Known Member
never remove with deep cleanand the deep clean takes half that time and further in between, if you don't have to remove and clean all the fiddly bits, regardless of performance
baby screen stays in place, use baby q-tip to clean under-side screen no need to remove.
under disc wipe the top and bottom with iso and wipe.
once ever couple months do i remove and replace the black silicone liner under the disc. you don't need to remove or replace often if you keep it clean. works for me
Removing any unecessary metal or obstructions in the airpath minimizes condensating vapor.
The condensed vapor is a loss of efficiency. If you remove a screen that is getting coated in an oil, two things happen. Other components of the airpath get coated faster or more heavily, but more importantly less overall is coated on the device and more is inhaled. I would like to know if this is an appreciable or negligible effect. IE if my herb is 20% and consequently I lose 1% of that, I probably wouldn't care.
I don't think performance is affected until the larger holes in the airpath disc are obstructed, where the draw is too tight.
The various screens may be intended to achieve a particular draw and also to achieve a more uniform flow. Without being able to test the output herb, we can only hope that uneveness in flow is minimized. The drastic 180 degree turn at the lid is a source of concern regarding eveness of flow.
The disc may form something of a heat sink or soak and forms the top on the oven.
The airpath filter screen shape is ridiculous in how the airpath beneath it is nearly circular and the screen is a long oval. The area under the gasket not in the flow path collects condensate.
The mouthpiece filter screen also collects a lot of condensate as does the mouthpiece itself. In theory the screen helps with the airflow going from the glass tube to an oval mouthpiece.
One of the drawbacks of the design may be the battery and electronics being exposed to more heat. I think most designs place the heating chamber and mouthpiece on the top, but in the avlp, heat is distributed from the bottom, along the side opposite the battery, and along the top.
greenpager
Well-Known Member
Still happy with my AVLP, I check the AirVape site maybe once a quarter just to see what, if anything, is what. Today I have a question about an accessory that is new to me: the gasket.
The 4-piece accessory pack includes "2 gaskets for the PRO." I don't recognize the gasket. The pic doesn't allow for a detailed view and the gasket is not visible in any of the small videos that play in background on the main page. I mean, I can't really see the thing. Does my device (early 1.0, the pre-capsule era) already have one?
If the answer is no, what does it do? Where does it go?
Thanks.
The 4-piece accessory pack includes "2 gaskets for the PRO." I don't recognize the gasket. The pic doesn't allow for a detailed view and the gasket is not visible in any of the small videos that play in background on the main page. I mean, I can't really see the thing. Does my device (early 1.0, the pre-capsule era) already have one?
If the answer is no, what does it do? Where does it go?
Thanks.
JustAnotherCritic
Well-Known Member
The gasket is the silicone part that goes onto the lid and covers the bowl, The microdosing disk screws on top of it.
This is the gasket with the microdosing disk removed.
seedy53
Well-Known Member
the gasket seals and isolates and directs vapor from oven. i would not remove it. it is necessary for oven accurate heat regulation too..
JustAnotherCritic
Well-Known Member
Yes, it would be very noticeable if it was missing. So if you're getting proper hits then you have the gasket installed. I forgot to replace it once after cleaning and immediately noticed I was getting no resistance.
seedy53
Well-Known Member
i never tried it without that gasket, it looked like it was needed so the avlp would not have internal vapor leaks.
Here are some more suggestions for the device:
- A buzz or alert before the 60 second time-out shutoff.
- An adjustable timeout. I think 70 seconds might be a sweet spot for me.
- Make the 3,5, or 10 minute countdown timer the largest thing displayed during a session. It is by far the most important text information. More people could read it conveniently (while vaping for instance).
- Detect device orientation and re-orient display accordingly. As a right-handed user I find the display doesn't seem to be easily found by my eyes. For instance, if I palm the device to use it, then extend my wrist away from my body, the display is upside down. Similarly, if I palm the device then instead rotate my wrist outwards, then the display is right-side up; but my wrist is unnaturally twisted away. The last option for reading the display for a right-handed person is to swap from palming to a finger-tip hold. I do enjoy flipping my device in one hand while using some hand dexterity but it is less than ideal for safety and ease of use.
- An option to lock the temperature (e.g. the 3,5,10 timer selection).
- Bluetooth connectivity to an app with usage statistics or other data. My use-case is to help me regulate the number and duration of puffs between uses.
- No bluetooth or app, but some 'hidden menu' information.
ChocolateBreath
Member
Wait... the gasket matters that much? I lost mine awhile ago and just assumed it didn't matter that much, lol.
Ok, I will believe that you weren't aware of its existence. It's hard to remove and difficult to tell that it's not just part of the lid. Also, resin seems to help adhere it in place.
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seedy53
Well-Known Member
from what Gary indicated, it is more likely to be around Christmas at earliest. maybe early 25'. things can change either way, maybe @Gary-Airvape will update us.Still no news about the 2.0... and here I hoped it would release before Black Friday
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JustAnotherCritic
Well-Known Member
My 18650 is dying and getting a replacement is pretty expensive up here in Canada, so hopefully it lasts long enough for the 2.0 release. I'm really excited to see it, and look forward to the changes. I just hope that it fits my existing dosing caps because I don't think I can go back to not using dosing caps.
seedy53
Well-Known Member
most new, brand-named 18650 li-on batteries, will last 3 to 7 years depending on proper charging, no use abuse, and storage techniques.
JustAnotherCritic
Well-Known Member
I have been trying to get my hands on a couple Molicel P30B batteries, but even basic 18650's wind up costing about $20 USD a piece in Canada (after shipping). If any Canadians here know a place with reasonable prices I'd love to know.
It's not that my battery is dead, it only lasts about half as long as when it was new so I notice I have to charge it more often. I received one of the first units and it's been used daily since then, so the battery has been through a lot.
seedy53
Well-Known Member
molicel p28a is great for any vape. 30b are high cause they are the new kid on the block. i see the for 5 or 6 usd online often