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End of this week

It would ship around the end of the week, and there will be more color options soon. The bearing in the MP melted unfortunately, you can likely use it without spinning. If you can remove all the melted plastic, then you can either get a POM bearing from the website or, if it won't come out, a...

It's not planned in the near future unfortunately. At some point maybe, I'm not working on it atm.

There weren’t enough of them, after all. There might be more Rainbow Revolve CU + Wood Sleeve + Ti Head kits with a discount next month.

Try to bend it back carefully, so the spring is completely flat again. If you can hold the rest of spring in between 2 flat surfaces that could help.

change the 5x1mm o-ring to the larger 6x1 size that came with it and it will be much tighter

Please try to deburr it like I do in the video with a metal or ceramic tweezer, around the inner edge. That’s where it usually tears up the O-ring. Then grab a Q-tip with ISO and clean the inner threading as deeply as you can, pushing the cotton into the thread. Then clean it with the dry side...

It’s from a different manufacturer. It's even wider than the Gen 2, and the magnet is glued in from the top, so in an unlucky situation if it gets too hot, it could fall out.

When you take it apart it will look like the on new picture 1. The red line indicates the part on the green pointer that the spring has to be aligned with in resting position (picture 2) for it to be calibrated well. You need a fine point tweezer ideally and grab the very end of the inside of...

Picture 1 shows which part of the pointer needs to align with (be parallel with) the middle of the spring when it's in ‘resting’ position, as shown in Picture 2. If it's bent more to the left, then it's shifted and it'll max out a bit earlier. If it looks fine then there's a different problem

Remove the indicator housing and pull up the spring to release it from between the screw and 2 posts. The middle of the spring has to line up exactly with the part marked by the blue arrow and red line.

I’ve had the same happen just now, and it was a long burr along one of the slot. It was working fine if I loosened the screw slightly.

It's also possible that the pointer is bent along its length, which could cause similar issues. Make sure when you remove it to rotate it where there is a cut on the inner side of the wall.

Try to move the VI pointer with a pin to the maximum position, that might clear any small burr. Do you feel it's getting stuck on something? It should move smoothly with increasing tension.

Please check the note below the table. The temp 2 will combust if you leave it until timeout, use the wand temp 1 instead.

It will be on the way tomorrow

Yes, sorry, I've added the 4th step after making the video :doh: It's easier if you rotate it to the starting position. Push the adapter 2mm deeper. If it’s still not quite there, try adjusting it to 320°C or a little higher, and wait until the VI starts moving back before taking a draw. You...

They received the stock today, it should be on the way very soon.

If it’s in good shape, then it won’t make a difference. They’re all exactly the same length; the only slight difference is the angle of the middle end in relation to the outer end.

Yes I know, but when you switch rom C to F on the device those are the conversions and matching timers. Bending the middle end should help, but I don’t recommend it since it doesn’t make much of a difference other than shifting the end point. It won’t make it more “precise.” The current...