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I think your both right. @KeroZen in stating we can't get the power levels we ask, when the battery is not capable to provide. And @funkyjunky in that the mod will stop taking power when battery is low. Although, no predicting involved. Simply measuring the voltage and assigning functions to a...

This is very interesting stuff. In my experiments, the trouble with mess is having the two contacts at each being uniformly connected across the entire length of the side. Connecting to the center, like you have done, causes the electrons to converge at that point. This makes the whole...

That would be the one. The red one sure looks pink to me though. Not the colour @natural farmer showed...? Agreed about FF visits. Always end up throwing something in the cart. Keep an eye on stock levels as if one is waiting restocking, it holds up the whole order. Just split your order, no...

You can get ss mesh to work in power mode but not very TC friendly. The closest mod to match the Bull's dimensions was the Kayfun V2.1 mini. Some paired it with it's larger brothers bigger deck for ease of building and better connector terminals.

It's the mesh. I never had luck using mesh myself neither. Even those notch coils out there don't seem to be TC friendly. Problem is the resistance doesn't change enough to ever hit the set temp. Maybe try setting the TCR extremely low might help. :hmm:

Love that stem. Does it take a 510 tip as well? Glad you got it going without any real problems. It's a fun game setting it up just the way "you" like it. IMO, that's part of what makes it great. Everyone draws differently and for longer or shorter times. Some draw faster at the start while...

It's the glass joint cut down to accommodate a standard 510 drip tip. It's the glass drip tip holding me back on getting some out. The one in the pic is a wooden one which I had ordered a couple of. The long awaited 510 glass stem (drip tip) is very close to the same dimensions. They are past...

Life is good... Starting from now on, an additional accessory will be included. A stem cap to keep your stem loaded and safe. It's a 12mm cap for the Glass and a 14mm cap for the Eraser. They will be cut back some as the original cap's length is a bit too long. :nod:

Send me a side angle close up picture if possible via PM. Yes, sometimes the SS will want to stay in the sleeve. The SS to base and SS to sleeve are very close in the amount of friction holding them in. It can stay in the sleeve for this as we're not cleaning it. But can be pushed down from the...

That's a very good question. Besides the jacket, he original Project is basically the same design with a shorter oven and a different coil orientation. The changes were made to improve heat dispersion and help with the hot spot. The features in the custom firmware allows us to take it to the...

I think you nailed it! The idea of the PID is to match ones draw techniques to be the most comfortable. If you have a pre-heat, a quick start at a higher speed becomes the norm out of necessity. Besides the preheat, the numbers make the temp move some one way or the other through the duration of...

It measures 23mm. Made it the same diameter as my ecig atomizer. There are this type of mods that will fit as I remember thinking about one for my ecig at one time. I've being playing with the PID numbers as I agree with @natural farmer and @funkyjunky about the preheat being a little much in...

Yes, it speeds up the preheat burst. Turning it down will cap the peak of the burst. After that, the device will generally never pull that much power for the duration of the cycle. However, going too low will cause the device to jump into power mode. The same symptom you will get when battery is...

I had to re-post as I screwed up on the conversion. The new one should work.

Actual pictures with shading don't come out very well. Here is the above pic resized (64X48) and cropped some.

@m0qu4, I loaded up your firmware and works great in the Cuboid. Thank you! However, the offset is not working on my 2/3. Shows in menu but no effect. In the Cuboid, setting the offset to -20 does the trick perfectly without manually altering the ohms. Great stuff. :clap::clap:

Cool stuff. Some or most of the Joyetech devices only support 64X40 pixel so resizing might need to be done. Easy with any descent editor though like Irfanview or similar. The windows editor sucks.

The wire length or ohms is less critical with a TC device driving it. Remember that the Mistvaporizer is an un-regulated device and depends on ohms law to achieve the desired "average" temperature. Controlling the temp is done by draw speed. This is also the reason I choose 8-9" of AWG22 wire...

:clap: Very nice work! The addition of an "off set" into the firmware is the feature we much needed. Nice not to have to alter the heating curve by altering the ohms. Do the numbers correspond to both degrees F or C depending on setting in preference menu? Another nice feature to have would be...

My finding with the PID is that when set to "on" with the preset numbers, it is generally hotter, and you don't need to manually up the ohms as much to achieve the real feel temperatures. But, I also found it increases the preheat some causing the initial glow to be hotter before it settles...