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One of our own shared a new Vong with me to try out. Took about a minute to get it apart. Your observation about 'leaky' is not surprising. Not much can be done about that short of adding another o-ring inside the assembly. However, the free-spinning aspect can be managed with a little...

I am not sure who ended up making the skin for DV. I suspect they will show up as a product before long somewhere.

Of all the stem designs out there, this is closest to what I consider a perfect presentation.

The original Side Port Mini - This was my first for some time. 60 watts on 3S 18650 on my favored '18 cap which pulls a lot of power. The switch is a very light-load momentary with a bypass on 'pull'. I ShoeGoo'd the switch to the side. ShoeGoo is reversible. Same as the goo on the chokes...

I love the geek-speak with all due respect. Indeed, it is electron flow restriction as I understand it. Yanking electrons back and forth in copper is not a big deal - not a big heat generator - but in steel, in varying degrees, these motion-restricted electrons tend to heat things up. The...

I knew I had a pic of this - 1200VDC! 600VAC These are 50KHz. We operate at around 200KHz.

The value is 0.33uf at 1200VAC. Man, sucks to be dealing with that cancer. Very sorry to hear that. Artisans and Dynatec have used lower voltage rated caps. They just have to react fast enough in a 200khz range. Chokes too can be reduced significantly in wire gauge. The aim is 100uh although...

Sold Orion and use Flite. They simply don't compare.

When I cleaned up the battery compartment, I had nearly 1/4" of clearance. Pushing on the battery rather than the cover allowed me to make sure the charge port didn't slip past the hole in the case. Of course, I pulled the whole unit apart and aligned things as best I could to achieve this;

There is no specific difference between captive and non-captive caps @Vapormarsh serialized 2020 or newer. Older caps do not have captive options but if they are serialized for 2019 or earlier, then these caps will have some differences in how the IH heats them.

@Bologna nailed it. I use the gray stuff found in grocery store 'fixit' isle. Double sticky thick gum-style tape is trim tape. Remove whatever residue you can remove until you see the black plastic inside the HotShot. Stick the circular pair of tapes to the magnet and stick it in the hole...

I got the magnet to stick with 2 layers of trim-tape straight to the internal capacitor. I pull caps and park the VC on it and it works great.

I'm using this one - https://www.xtar.cc/product/VI01-Current-Voltage-Detector-92.html There are several offerings. Personally, I like XTAR products.

The charge circuit that Pipes chose requires a higher input than normal USB. I have a small meter on the output of my USB charger so I can keep track of both voltage and current. It is very consistent cutting off charging when it reaches 1-1/2 amps. The intended chargers are high output wall...

The charger cuts off at 1.5 amps @webtroter . Mine runs about 2-1/2 amps on the initial charge. Voltage drops down a couple of volts. That is where other chargers are failing to start for me.

Happy to help @PPN ;] The wand iSpire is a PID device that senses the load, it appears. It is reported to require a minimum load. They are banking on a fixed load to use conventional ModBox algorithms sensing power curves without physically sensing their load. I am not certain but I think...

@BabyFacedFinster - I have not used a temp controlled IH as yet. I know what it can do. I use a user-curve temp sensing Mod on my Launch Box and it is a whole new vape. Using this technique with the IH, it should be a straight pull until your lungs hurt. The way it should be.

@BabyFacedFinster - Yes, temp control can fuck the click :D ...can also aid in real-time draws.

Not far off, @stark1 - for every one you sell you probably need a backup for warranty. So you are buying 2 IH's but only getting one.