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I just finished up these Cherry and Maple XL size cases this afternoon. Regular size cases will be assembled tomorrow. I'll make a post in my thread when I have them posted in my Etsy with better pictures, there should also be details about my sale there as well. That was a lot of sanding today

XL cases are done! I’ll be working on regular cases soon. I have a Black Friday/ Cyber Monday deal that I’ll post tomorrow along with these cases.

Here's the first case glued, assembled and rough sanded. I'm hoping to have them all finished up for the weekend.:nod:

I'm well on my way to finishing up a batch of Cherry and Maple Vapcap Cases in both sizes.

Getting setup to do some more turning soon and make a batch of Vapcap cases. I found this chunk of maple crotch wood and turned it into turning blanks. @phattpiggie were you still looking for Maple?

That reminds me of this stubby VonG I made a while ago on page 479 of 865 (currently) o.O This thread moves fast.

Cherry ABV bins are available now. https://www.etsy.com/listing/571726197/cherry-box-with-funnel-lid

Good explanation! It's all complicated further when the cap is thrown into the works. I'm not really looking for answers but just putting some questions out there that I've mused. How does the heat go from the cap to the tip? Radiant, Conduction, Convection? How do these all compare, what...

:shrug::hmm: Do caps on the new Ti tip fit tighter than your other more free flowing tips? The only thing I can think of is that the tip is larger in diameter and making for a tighter airpath between the caps and tip. Which might explain why the cap takes longer to cool? More contact with the...

You're obviously talking about carb closed, right? Can you take a picture of it? How deep are the spiral grooves? Does draw resistance change when you use a different cap? Is your condenser clean and free of obstructions and restrictions? That's a modified Dynastash that is pictured, normally...

I get the best flavour when I heat at the bottom then switch to high up on the top of the cap. There's a big flavour hit up front that gets everything up to temp, then a less tasty second hit that doesn't need as much heat.

This thread always needs more cap porn. Today's setup

I just put the first coat of finish on a batch of Cherry ABV bins. I've still 2 more coats to apply with sanding in between coats. After that I'll be onto making some taller pencil holders/tool organizers, then a batch of fancy stems. I learned a lot during the process of doing the box joins for...

There is no spinning metal mouthpiece, the only option with a metal mouth piece are Omni condensers.

316L holds more thermal energy and takes longer to conduct it. M tips will stay hotter for longer, even after the click it can still be hot enough to burn. I can pluck the cap off my Ti tip a few seconds after the cool down click. Not so much the case with the M.

I clean out my CU with a plastic scraper (a cut down heavy guitar pick), then use it in my Vapcap. The CU does condense a lot of vapour quite quickly, which means it is probably overkill for my low temp usage. It has to be designed to cool down the hottest vapour that the Mighty can produce. So...

Sorry if I sounded a bit negative when explaining all that. Sometimes what looks like a simple design feature on the surface is quite hard to produce. I have to consider my time spent, the price, and ease of production when I'm going make something. The lid you're looking for would be something...

It's a lot more work that's for sure, likely more work than it would be worth. There's the difficulty of getting everything just right where there's enough space for stuff to fall down but also have the knob protrude. A secondary profile would need to be routed into the backside of the lid so...

I get what you mean now, but the actual construction of it might be a bit tricky.

My vote is for a Vapcap Ti. If done right you can make flower look like a dab with the thickness of vapour.