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Check the glass in the splinter base for cracks.

I did not have it repaired. I think I read on here that it was ~$45. for the repair +shipping. Unless the design problem is fixed, I think cracks will keep happening. I'm just not going to risk my hard earned money on this and am looking for a better made alternative. It was great while it...

Sorry to hear but same exact thing happened to me....Twice. Very disappointing. I think that because the inner glass piece is cut from something else and the edge is left rough and sharp, that there are many stress risers that will facilitate easy cracking and breaking. The cut edge should be...

https://m.imgur.com/a/8soxbb8 These are not my pictures but this what it looks like. Actually, these pictures show a cut that looks a little cleaner than mine. Mine was a bit rougher looking. I've had to reglue the joint back to the wood a few months ago so I cant take pictures at the moment...

For the second time, the glass mouthpiece receptacle inside my splinter has broken. The first time I was able to get the Splinter replaced by PIU because it was new but now it's about a year old. I'm pretty sure I know what the problem is.. The stem is a pretty good cantilever and stresses the...

JB Weld, when cured, is pretty non-reactive to heat and other chemicals so air should be a non-issue. ...and JB Weld is cheap (like me)! I might try that. Thanks!

Ack! Last night I went to pull the stem out of the base (gently rocking as always) and the glass receptacle piece came out with it. Looks like it was only glued at the very edge of rim. Area where glued is no where near air path. Maybe a good, odorless CA glue?

This is what I do also. Works great for me!

I don't know about the Xl8r stem but with the stock stem, the inside dimension tapers open to about 13-14mm at the step. I just took a larger screen and cut with a pair of scissors until it fit nicely in the stem right on the step. You'll have to fold it ever so slightly to get it in the...

Same here. Bought V2 from PIU during 420 sale.. Both of the included stems do not fit tightly in the base and rock a little. If I were to turn unit upside down, I would worry the stem would fall out.

Those of you using rimless screens in Splinter, what are you using and where are you getting them? I just received my 14mm rimless screens from DDAVE MODS and they are not working as I hoped. The opening in the Splinter stem base is about 11.5mm and tapers open to about 14-15mm at the step. I...

These numbers are a little different than the sur_myevic numbers I'm used to. What is the "0.022" number? Measured resistance? If so, that's very low....like short circuit low.

I bought mine from PIU (same sale) a couple days before you. I do not have the spot on my screen but otherwise, my base and box labels appear IDENTICAL to yours.

I don't think the distance really matters. The hot air flow from element is a closed path and has nowhere else to go but through the payload. The path is still insulated about the same and the rimmed screen would act as a sink but I think that equates to just a little more time to heat soak...

I'm going to give this a try...

After a couple disappointing sessions with the Splinter V2 in power mode, I decided to try TCR mode with sur_myevic on a cuboid mini. So far, this is very promising and way better than power mode. Using TCR=180, R=.245, P=45W T=400*. Pretty sure the temp is close because AVB looks like AVB...

Damn... I just bought one from PIU...

Thanks! Blowing through the inlet holes at 50W a few times seemed to do the trick. Going to take first test drive tonight ..probably just in power mode at 30W to start. Now that I have this mod with myevic FW, I am interested in my alternatives for on demand use with the Splinter V2. Since I...

Received my Splinter V2 today from PIU.. Screwed it on my Cuboid Mini with sur_myevic firmware and fired it off empty in power mode at 20 watts.. There's a strong oil smell (and taste) coming from it. Do these need a burn-off for some period of time?