Search results

there should be diagrams of the batteries on the battery holder.. 2 go in one way, 1 goes the other way. are you sure you inserted them in the correct orientation? dont use the charger to power the heater. it wasnt made for that.. the charger is WAY underpowered for that purpose make sure your...

Pretty much. Just missing a skeletor. You will need solder and a soldering iron, as well as the ability to drill a 3/4" hole in the heater holder (for glass tube w coil wrapped around it)

a reddit user requested my CAD model for the skelly holder.. so i decided to share it. i uploaded it and the STL files i sent off for printing. as well as a small parts list of what i ordered off amazon to make this all work. (power cord, power jacks, some soldering required) CAD models and...

question anyone with a portside/skelly charger... does yours ever blink? most of the time mine is green (not charging/done charging) or red (charging) but sometimes it flashes green/red and stops charging. if i unplug and immediatly replug it will do the same. if i unplug and wait for 5min or...

Wow.. it was the cap.. i could tell from the first heat/cool cycle.. each one after just reinforced it. as soon as I put the familiar cap on the new m18, it just, pardon the pun, clicked! Felt like second nature again. My m17 cap has a good half a second more between heat up clicks, and I get...

No, no I am not sure if it's the cap or not.. never gave the cap a thought.. but now that you say that, I don't know why I wouldn't have thought of the cap also.. it's actually what makes the click afterall... Now I will be right back, I have an experiment to do :science:

i thought it was just me imagining things.. but i pulled out the m18 yesterday after work and noticed the tip doesnt cool down as fast either. i find myself jumping the gun (out of habit i guess) and sticking the m18 back in the IH and after 3-4 seconds asking myself... "why hasnt this clicked...

Lookig good @phattpiggie I bet you have like 10 of these things stashed all over the place... Very covert..

mint herb sandwich... i might have to give that a try one of these times.

haha, i love it.. "dope straw" :lmao:

yes and no, but you cant heat continously, you'll have to let off the heat, then heat again once vapor tails off.. @phattpiggie has been known to do this with his 2 part skelly..

@szai make sure the batteries are topped off and same levels (general speaking). last night after i got done fitting the new skelly holder, i forgot that the batteries were not really charged and it took much longer to heat than normal... for a second i thought i messed up some wiring...

oh, i am no stranger to putting concentrates in my vapcap.. i just found it funny, that evidently "squidgy hash" has too much plant matter to vape, but the actual plant matter itself doesnt... :brow: if im putting concentrates in my vapcap, i actually much prefer the herb sandwich method...

just curious.. but how can "squidgy hash" have too much plant matter in it to vape.. but, herb doesnt have too much plant matter to vape?

well well well, this came together quicker than i thought.. gave it the maiden voyage last night and woke up on the couch. it was so good i passed out :) https://imgur.com/a/joIo9 it seems i could have drilled the hole for heater tube about 1/16" closer to the edge, as it sits at an angle...

yep, just click @Pipes then click "start a conversation" in the new window that pops up. that'll take you to the page to start a conversation with him, let him know what you're looking for, and he'll get back to you next time he logs in. if you havent already, check out his induction heater FAQ...

dont get me wrong, those are great emails to get, but i like these better ;)

so, not quite finished yet.. but the balsa proto didnt work out like i wanted, i ended up scrapping the whole thing in a fit of rage.... no, but i did scrap that.. went back to the computer, and had some guys print me out a prototype that looks like its going to work. all i need to do is...

oh, i see what you mean now.. that could very well be for version 2 ;) my balsa wood proto didnt work, (that) wood is way to weak to manipulate the way i wanted to do it. so i just made a CAD model, and exported it to STL file, then sent it off to a guy a few hours away from me. he has a 3d...

since its an induction heater (that heats metal usually) i'd keep the magnet away from the inside (or near inside) of the heater coil, other than that, you should be ok *shrugs*