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Using the heat tarnish on the bowl as a rough indication of maximum temperature during repeated heating cycles, the clicker housing and threads (and the base of the XL bowl) reach somewhere between 200°C and 230°C. Beyond the thermal break of the air inlets to around the base of the full bowl it...

The outside of the condenser is not in the vapour path and mine never looks like this. Some backflow occurs when the Anvil is dropped into a water pipe, so I always heat it in place. Also when your draw finishes and the water flows back, so I always lift it out as this happens.

The heating method I described above works well with a PB-207, Aomai, Vapman or similar torch, and to a certain extent the intensity of different torches can be matched by adjusting to make the same bright copper area, but more powerful torches will require more care. Dynavap's Omni is $199 and...

Depending on personal taste and technique, the first click indicates that the Anvil is ready to go (more flavour) and the second indicates the limit (more vapour). There should never be any need to heat beyond the second click. Perhaps the sweet spot is when the second click comes just after...

There are two clicks and their separation is another indicator of heating intensity. As Mndeadhead mentioned, simultaneous clicking would mean way too aggressive heating. Using the method described, I don't think that's the case and more likely that you are missing the first click, which can...

Heating higher on the oven is very tasty but with less vapour and likely needing another cycle. Each of the bowls should work well with the same basic technique, with only very slight changes to flame intensity, heating position, airflow adjustment, perhaps needed to dial in your perfect hit. I...

I use a single flame torch with a half inch inner blue flame tip making a quarter inch bright copper spot centred on the lower heat distribution ring (light roast) or the thermal battery (dark roast) with clicks at about 30 seconds for tasty clouds every time.

Perhaps a quick swab to make sure they are clean, but the electropolishing now used gives a near perfect finish. The Anvil works mainly by convection, although the XL bowl adds a bit more conduction, and the half bowl provides the least conduction, and the standard full bowl is intermediate. Enjoy!

My Reload order was with Asendia (Swiss Post) at Hounslow UK awaiting departure on 18 August. And my last order (Royal Mail) was handled by Jersey Post and so showed a Jersey tracking number, but it was just in a Jersey Post international facility in UK.

Each version has a different air intake. The WPA is always wide open. The integrated stem has vertical slots and small holes that can each be covered but not both. The USA has vertical slots that can be hidden behind the oven posts and lower horizontal slots behind the base of the oven stem, and...

Yes, the condenser screen is simply pushed out with a skewer, but the bowl screen still needs a pulling tool, and a lock pick seems the best solution. When the Anvil's airflow is restricted the heat is retained longer and a darker roast is obtained. At home I generally use the WPA, which has a...

Some electrical heating elements have been shown to release nanoparticles. The only other vaping scenario that might generate nanoparticles is perhaps when steel or titanium is heated to cherry red. Those who prefer to avoid any possibility of toxic particles often choose an all glass vape, but...

Nanoparticles are increasingly common, with some considered safe and now widely used, but their long term safety is unclear. The risk seems to rise as the particle size decreases, and even silver nanoparticles have shown toxic effects. The presence of a metal or its oxides, however, does not...

Excited about the Tempest release and considering the myriad of options and accessories. It seems there are three wooden sleeve designs: the Revolve Wood Sleeve, Wood Sleeve Gen 2, and a (grooved) Wood Tempest Sleeve. Is this correct?

I just spent a few minutes cleaning my oldest bowl with Barkeepers Friend without removing the screen. And while the area under the screen couldn't actually be touched, I can now see bright metal behind the intake slots and glinting back through the screen. Perhaps unnecessary, but the old bowl...

The condenser screen can be pushed out for cleaning, but the bowl screen is inaccessible from below and would need to be pulled out. I haven't tried removing the bowl screens and (if I did want to remove all traces of tarnish from the airpath) I'm not sure of the appropriate method. John...

With a torch, the original and new DuraCore ovens perform equally, but the extra steel cladding of the DuraCore should improve its performance with an induction heater (can't wait for the Forge!) I prefer the original with a torch, however, as the bright spot that shows on the copper directly...

Hello FC, I have been hammering the Anvil for a year now, and it has never failed. With a little cleaning it still looks brand new. A short soak in iso to remove resin and Barkeepers Friend to quickly remove tarnish and restore shine. Never needed to take out the screens, and beyond an...