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The Jarhead will work directly from the car 12 volts, but needs to tap into the fuse box or direct to battery because of the high current. The accessory outlet is not the best for contact reliability at high amps.

Finally, no more back orders. All caught up with a couple extras to boot. If I have missed anyone expecting a PM, please let me know. Both Erasers and SFs are currently available. :nod:

Yes, that's it. You had me :bang: for a sec... :D

I've been asked this a few times now. Going to clarify in the FAQ as well. Answer is absolutely NOT. These are 4.2 volt cells and in series you need 12.6v dead on. And it's a charger, NOT a power supply. It has built in intelligence that slow downs and stops charging at the full charge mark. It...

Sounds about right to me. Without trying to "fool" the readout, a correct read will put you around the 500F mark for sweet spot. Don't forget to lock it to avoid surprise hits. Even when locked it causes a different artifact. What happens is it will not change the locked in ohms unless it reads...

Could be. Well, not normal but a quirk? First, try the same thing with the SS tube removed and ohms lock turned off. Make sure all is clean and tight, remove and re-install the batteries. Do a chant and dance around. Now say yes to new atomizer, cross fingers and report back....

Yep, Greenhopper has it about right. With one exception, I do have power supplies for EU plugs for the Jarhead, and still have some. The 12.6v charger, for the battery supplied units, I only have with US plugs but will work on 220v, so an adapter is required. If the user can find and get their...

A quick FYI. I've updated my signature to have a link to a Induction heater FAQ page. Click the Jarhead to access. Same as the Eraser and SF. Others link to different slide shows. Also, enclosures are in Canada as well as the power switches. Fiber cable is a different story but will figure...

Portside: Skeletor: I have made a minor change to the Skeletor unit. It is configured in the smallest way possible for overall real-estate. However, to make the top of coil slightly protrude over the battery holder height, it had to be lifted higher above the driver board. So I added a...

@KeroZen, those reading are pretty crazy. I'm honestly not seeing that kind of fluctuation at all. Are you sure your 510 center pin ans threads are clean? It really looks like a contact issue as doesn't take much to influence a measuring device at this low of resistance. Even, skin oil can cause...

Nope, that was never asked and is actually a very good question. A phillips screw driver will be needed along with the 3 each, "flat top" 20 Amp minimum drain batteries. Fastest method will be to remove the two screws on the left on the front and the opposite two screws on the rear. The right...

Thanks. No, they are in series to get up around the 12 volt mark. A 20 amp battery would be fine as well. I just like the VT4s as can get reasonably cheap and from my experience, very reliable and consistent performance. Mooch's Blog has good information regarding batteries. His link to battery...

It's true, most BMS boards do not have battery balancing but this board does. In fact, it will fail to work if batteries are not closely balanced. The problem with protected cells is the physical length will not fit the heavy duty holder. It was my initial though, and even bought a whack of the...

Yes, that is the equivalent car charger for a 3 cell pack. :tup:

You got me thinking about this. Seems the problem is getting a line of sight to use the IR sensor. I also think it will need to be calibrated to get real numbers as well. So, why not use a different input to your teensy board. Thinking some nickle or titanium heating wire. Run a loop up a side...

Let's back up some. Is the display not showing any information as your above post? Describe the symptoms again as far as how the coil is heating. And ohms raising. Keep in mind that ohms are suppose to rise when temperature is rising.

Try this. It totally wipes out all data and will only boot to be programmed. Then you can reload the myevic. Worth a shot as you are missing data it seems.

Seeing the ohms change as it heats up is normal. Maybe never noticed? Are you manually entering the ohms? If so, it needs to be within 10% of real. Do a cold measure first and you can calculate the max change. Are you saying the TC function is no longer working? With the SF, any coil issue...

Short Portside Update. Ironing out a couple details but everything is on order. Enclosures have shipped. I decided a master power switch was needed on the Portside as a safety measure. The reason is for a scenario where the tactile switch gets stuck in an "on" state. Not a huge chance of this...

Cuboid is definitely a proven workhorse. Also, personally like a 2 cell mod myself. The extra battery life is nice to have on board.