Search results

Thanks - just ordered 10 for the stem in black. 👍

Here you go.

Not quite following you. The "loose" screen in the last pictures is just for demonstrating the fit. The rimmed screen for the actual mod is secured to the heater screen in the bottom of the stem tube. It doesn't come out. @dzoinp supplied some great pics on how it's secured. (added an extra...

I listed a few details of my @dzoinp mod in this post. Highly recommended. 4 months in, and I've yet to even touch the heater screen or the rimmed basket screen that's part of the mod. I just blow out the few crumbs occasionally after I pull the stem. Here's a view of the mod and some...

Just the opposite for me. I ordered a long stem and an extra short stem with the TM, but didn't even try the long stem for weeks. By the time I did, I was so used to the short stem (aesthetically) that the long stem looked/felt clunky. And I didn't detect a big enough difference in cooling...

If you were combusting that easily, I have to ask: when you hold the button down, are you waiting for the single vibration before starting to draw? Because if you don't wait for that vibration, the heat you get will be inconsistent, possibly to the point of combustion.

Thanks for that. There's obviously some big variation, because the one I measured was MUCH less than 12mm ID. I could see the difference using a plain ruler.

Does anyone have calipers to measure this? It would be good to know the exact inner diameter for future reference.

Oh, I'm aware, and I personally have no problems moving the CU back and forth. I just thought that if a 1/2" dowel can move the CU in a foolproof way (without pressing on the CU screen), that would be handy for other folks to know. I actually move my CU using my 1/4" dowel - I just keep it...

Ok, so I don't have a 1/2" dowel handy, but I do have a couple of 1/4" dowel sections. If my theory is correct, then the two dowel sections, side-by-side, should just fit into the TM stem, right? Wrong. No way they would fit. Why not? I don't have calipers, but putting the end of the stem...

8.37 g

A .5 inch wooden dowel section should juuust make it in the stem , no? (14mm = .55 inches) It should push the CU by its outer wall, without pushing on the screen. (this is conjecture, as I don't currently have a .5" dowel to try it with)

It was so long ago I don't remember how I oriented the capsule. I just remember I couldn't get any vapor. Perhaps I should try it again but TBH the ease of using the TM natively (without capsules), combined with the Virus scare keeping me from going out much, and I'm not sure I'll gain much...

Just for the record, I've gotten a couple of Accessories orders and they came much slower than the TM itself was delivered. YMMV.

The air in your draw will always take the path of least resistance. If there's space around a filled capsule, much more air will flow around the capsule than through it. I found this to be the case when I tried the SB capsules as well (tho others have claimed success with them).

16mm & 14mm.

Many of us have the same problem. My solution: abandon the idea of "3 rapid clicks to shut it off", and instead adopt this: "click rapidly until it shuts off". It truly works every single time. :)

PSA: Tinymight shipping thread: https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tinymight-shipping-thread.48924/

Mine is calibrated low. 2@3 2@4 2@5...spent with a just faint burnt popcorn taste. If I go higher than 5, the taste is bad.

My Tim is still wearing his sweater, so no darkened grain for him. I've already figured out what his Halloween sweater will be.