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I'll be right over.

Mine has never gotten that extreme, but that is the sort of thing I've seen. I think your picture pretty much confirms the theory that getting it too warm causes the wood to release resins. Fortunately, you can clean that up without any permanent damage.

Always like this. My first time wasn't even flowers, it was hash on a pin, inhaled through a straw. It was an incredible experience that included near-hallucination. I have never since come close to it.

That makes sense, but I have never had mine heat up enough to feel hot in the hand. That said, it probably doesn't need that much heat. I've definitely done extended tests that would keep it warm for prolonged periods. Anyway, as I said, it isn't hard to clean up.

My breaks were a) annual and b) 60-70 days long. Back in the day (70s and 80s) when cannabis was much much harder to get, I had several breaks of 3-4 months. Same thing. People are different. It shouldn't be a surprise that some of us don't react the same way to long breaks. As for...

This happens occasionally with my V2 and I don't think it's due to over-heating. I wish I could tell you what causes it, but I haven't figured it out. You can simply rub the surface smooth again, just be careful not to use something that will damage the surface. I use the edge of a credit card.

First, no I don't get absolutely floored. I reach the same level I always do, which I find comfortable but I'm definitely not in the state some of you (most?) are trying to re-experience. I am indeed a micro-doser. My standard load (mentioned many times on here when describing my various tests)...

Yes, me. For 20 years I abstained for two months every summer when we were in Hawaii. When I resumed I got pretty much the same results I got from the last time before we left. I know you say you need 90+ days, and I've done that too. Same outcome. I will also add that my tolerance has never...

You are indeed out of here for a few days. For the record, the post @grokit quoted was edited by the poster, @YaMon. The OP link he provided, however, links to the opening post of this thread, which hasn't been edited for about 5 years. Nothing has ever been deleted from it; rather, content was...

The first rule of FC is Be Nice, and this post... doesn't quite qualify. You can be critical but please be a bit more respectful in your choice of language. Thanks for your cooperation.

If you can't edit your previous post then consecutive posts are just fine. The window is 6 hours.

The ad was removed because we do not allow selling for a price above retail.

The reason it says they not vape-compatible because they are rated for only 10A continuous discharge. This is not enough to run most vapes, however if they are working in the Haze, great. Since they are protected they will simply cut off if the discharge rate is too high.

You are after precision, but it's not much more help than accuracy. True consistency is not so easily achieved. There many other variables, such as strain, how dense the load is, how damp it is, how much you've hit it already, how long you draw, how hard you draw... you get the picture...

The main difference between TCR and wattage modes is that TCR varies the power sent to the heater in order to keep the resistance constant, while wattage mode just sends power to the heater as long as you hold the button. In theory then, TCR mode should result in better battery life. In...

73.5W is insane. I start at 20W, step up 2.5W at a time, and rarely reach 30W. Yes, packing tightly is a sure path to combustion even at low wattages.

I've used Powerex Pros and they do work well. I haven't done testing to verify this, but my opinion is that the glyphs are slightly better.

I wouldn't risk trying a shim myself, since an 18650 battery is a nasty thing if it shorts. They are protected batteries, and if you look around you can find other protected 18650s. I don't think Haze would have gone to the trouble of using a proprietary protection circuit but I don't know...

Then we will have to disagree. Strongly. I have said this once before and I will not say it again: this is not the topic. Further discussion of this point will result in deleted posts.

Oh, I think you get it, but I'll spell it out for you anyway. The term "Chinese glass" is being used to indicate inferior quality. I feel pretty certain that if the thinner glass was from Germany, we wouldn't see a lot of references to "German glass". Having said that, it's time to discuss...