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In you're support group, of course. Protecting your interests......as I'm sure you would mine? Truly great leaf raking is a team effort, don't you agree? OF

Actually Watts is power, the unit of power in fact. Designing in terms of Watts has many of the same issues as using Voltage. Changes in resistance (as happens in the SS screen and connections) can goof you up. My advice to design using Current stands. But it is, of course, your call. Not...

Probably me that's guilty there. I got some OK results with a couple models of D cells, for a while anyway. Again, some are capable of serious currents but flashlights are really designed around a Volt or so, often less, at the bulb even partway into their service life. The internal...

Very true, 'specsmanship' sells stuff. Peak currents, held for tens of seconds can make for troubles. IMO you should design around typical duty, not max possible even though the LB in basic configuration does just that. The LB, we're told, was designed to run at 15 Amps, with .75 Volts...

And you wouldn't even share? I'm clearly standing in the wrong place........ OF

Some see this potential for combustion as a negative, some see it as a positive. The user is in control. Like driving your car, you make the decisions but can 'blow it' and wrap it around a tree, phone pole or a handy car. By all means experiment, parts are cheap enough? I don't follow...

"Hot" is awfully subjective, you should expect almost any answer with little useful information if you've no way to correct for perspectives. Dry is to be expected. All water is removed by 300F, no matter how you got there (conduction/convection make no difference, 'hybrid' doesn't really...

Then how about Iolite? No exposed flame, looks more like a cell phone than anything else? Or VG, which looks like a traditional pipe (especially the 'hand carved' model) you relight from time to time. Like a traditional pipe smoker does? Most anything else involved battery limitations. A...

Understandable, and quite common, but IMO unfounded. The torch puts out water vapor, CO2 and heat. Nothing evil or toxic. You don't fear a gas stove do you? Same deal. Vapes need heat to work. Batteries have reliability and capacity issues. Lots of potential failure points. Using gas for...

First off, welcome to the Forum! Lot of great folks around with good advice to offer as you've discovered. Congratulations on your decision, a great vape for sure that's earned it's following. Bang up first post, IMO your sure to find continued success. Soon I expect you to be contributing...

I use standard screens lightly oversize (5/8 inch I think, maybe 3/4?) such that they need to be slightly 'dished in' to fit. This puts spring tension against the unthreaded part of the lower chamber. Fine mesh, no leaks. I just checked my 'Big Bronze one' to be sure that's right. While...

No, I haven't. I'm flying under false colors as I've said, I don't own any S&B products. Interesting choice of materials for them I think. Stainless Steel (inox in French) is a relatively poor conductor of heat. We want good conductors here? And harder to work then most? Many other metals...

I agree, conduction vapes work best with finer grinds and at least modest pack. The heat has to conduct in after all? Truth be known my favorite tool for such tasks is an 'orange wood stick' (actually sometimes other woods) with the sharp end cut off and end sanded square. I leave the sloping...

I agree fully, but like to think of it as 'compromises' or 'trade offs' rather than sacrifices. Life is full of them. The battery in the Miqro trades off capacity for current ability. You can have more of one at the expense of the other. In practice this means we want a cell just potent...

Of course. It's not magic...... OF

You should always have backup for mission critical gear. Resorting to blazing while you work something out should be avoided at all costs. IMO it should be something dependable, well respected, and different. Low cost is a plus. With Solo say a VG (or a personal favorite if you can find one...

Since we're (or rather you, I don't own one of these guys) are on this topic, the standard practice is to design around 300 cycles (recharges) using the allowed range between charge ending, (typically 4.25 Volt plus or minus .05 Volts) and the 'cutoff' level (typically 3.3 Volts or so). This...

Try one in each hand, eliminates that 'heat soak' factor........ OF

Yes, although that's a slightly different topic? The idea is to 'form' as much active material as possible. After the first serious discharge that is lost, all you ever had on that first charge is the most you can ever get in terms of capacity, it only goes down. The key is that 'trickle' or...

It's the season for sales. Those interested in a new Solo II might check out out our friends (and long time supporters of this Forum), PIU. They are offering Solo II with a couple of extra black stems and a grinder (nice one, too) for $170 shipped. Lots of other great values, too...