Search results

Hmm, it's about 10 months old now, does it still feel clicky when you push down the VC? If not, it might be stuck down and needs a good cleaning. Take a paper clip and straiten it out. Now use pliers to bend one end to fashion a small hook. Insert between the button and o-ring until it rests low...

Yes, perfectly normal. It should drop at least one led when under the VC load. This is why it's good to check under load for a more accurate reading towards the lower end of charge. Other wise it will show full until the close to the end and drop off fast.

Yes, it's the FETs are gone. The reason is most likely quality issues but look for cold solders as well. I've gotten use to changing them. Twist those big coils as much as they will go so you can access the legs. Use hot iron with needle tip in good condition and put under each leg and prey up...

Hillbilly PA for TV. Official TV power supply WSU060-4000 + a BNC Female to PL259 male adapter. This will go inside the tube allowing you to push up against the upper contact. The 90 degree looks good. You just need to find a way to connect the supply to the BNC. Maybe something along these...

These NTD4806NG have being working out great. Not the highest specs in the world but good enough for our task. And we know what they are..... lol. Unlike the ones that come with it with no markings. At least not any of the ones I've changed out had markings on them.

You hit the same dilemma as me. Many bad batches these days. In fact, all have been bad since last fall it seems. I test a couple thoroughly from each new batch and sadly find they fail. At that point, I just change out 100% of the FETs for that batch. Found failure rate has gone way down to...

Hard to answer 100%, but I've taken care of any failures the best I can. If your unit has been running fine, there should not be anything to worry about. Semiconductor failures generally occur within the first few uses. Like most appliances, if you make it past a month, you should be good for a...

This is also an example of why not to use those connectors. Hard solder is best. Also, a good example of pushing these things past their limits. The VC is right up there pushing 6 amps or 72 watts. The advertised rating for the device is 100-120 watts depending on seller. I find many fail...

Use it for a for a couple cycles and see if things improve. This may just be a mis-reading of the battery indicator. You might have read it without load and it gave an indication of close to full. Always do the read while the VC is inserted and getting heated. :\

The BMS does have over voltage protection but it's rather high at 4.3 volt area. If the batteries were not new, this may have damaged one or all of them but very hard to say. If the unit functions for a while, then I'd say the BMS is likely fine. I have my money on the battery(s) :hmm:

Many supplies have trouble, even if rated over 6 amp. Here is what I wrote about it a few pages back. 8+ amp rating would be less likely to have any problems of shutting off. But are more expensive.

Was using round standard LEDs, now I use the square type as easier to fit into place. :science: 3 in series and a 470 ohm current limit resistor.

The BMS is in the wire harness where two wire split into the multipin connectors. It is a small board. (HX-3S-01)

If the battery pack has a harness with multiple wires, then no, it does not. Even some that only have the two wire only may be questionable unless it states it. It is an important layer of protection.

Hey guys. A quick note regarding the new Skellys. The last couple batches have had the BMS changed over the the smaller 10 amp version. Unfortunately, these new BMSs do NOT have reverse polarity protection. If batteries are installed wrong the BMS board will burn up quickly. I advise to use the...

I'm very curious to the answers to this question too. It sounds like the protection is kicking in. As the metal's temp rises, so does the current so your experiencing hitting the limit of the protection. The caps I've experimented with, generally are an amp under the limit. Either, the Ti Omni...

Couple good questions. The reason for the FET is because of the current the device takes while in operation and the need to have a "easy effort" activation switch. Tach switches are typically low current so can't use as a direct "in path" switch. However, it is possible to eliminate the FET if...

Here are the specs for the indicator LEDs. L1 < 9 V L2 < 10 V L3 < 10.6 V L4 < 11.4 V L5 > 11.5 V Loosing 1-2 LEDs while dipping the VC is OK. If loosing more, I'd make sure the connections to the battery are in tight. Specially the two conductor red one, as unit will run on just the 4...

Super glue has many great uses but I'm afraid this is not one of them. It can make quite the mess and get into cracks that will cause any spring loaded mechanisms to seize up. JB Quick Weld, is my preferred method to fix or even improve connector reliability. Tack it from the inside by gobbing...

We for the battery gauge before I wired differently. Good eye. :science: