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Cool, thanks. It's a medical grade supply, which might have something to do with it. I found this article which explains a little bit about peak load applications and picking the right supply. Basically, some supplies are set to go into protection based more on heat build up rather then a...

I'm guessing the rating is not correct and/or very conservative. Keep in mind that our application is not a continuous drain and only 10-15 second bursts at most. If a protection circuit is not set at it's rating, then some over drawing of current is possible. However, if let on longer term...

Relays have contacts in them that do the switching, and with contacts, there is mechanical ware and voltage bounce. Old technology replaced by solid state mosFET switching.

Getting fancy are we... :cool: :tup: I'd avoid using relays. Check this puppy out if you want to add a delay circuit. It also has provisions for the soft switch and nice display. Good luck and have fun!

Nope, keep the work coil the same. I turn around dowelling to reduce the diameter. Turns works out to about 11 loops after reduction.

The booster was for driving the gates only. Low power. The main drive voltage isn't as important for it to oscillate. Not really feasible to boost the drive voltage as would be a much bigger undertaking. Getting into ecig mod power stuff now which is not a pure DC but rather pulsating DC and...

I'm afraid it's hit and miss. And all suppliers seem to get the bad stuff. Like I have said before, get extra FETs at the same time. Best you can do is look for a supplier which shows units with "QC PASSED" stickers affixed to the drivers. At least this should cut down on reversed diodes but...

Blackening is fine. Actually hardens the wood. :brow:

Ensure you have the switch turned on to charge. Should be green when not charging and red while charging. If you're having further difficulties, shoot me a PM. ;)

Here is the procedure, but be very careful not to lose the little pieces.

They almost always both go. I've never had good luck just changing one out. Regardless what they seem to measure. Usually turns into changing back and forth a few times before you say fuck it and change both at once with fresh ones... Taking the factory mounted ones off is easy compared to...

Bam, that'll do it in an instant. I have said this a few times now. Those blue connectors suck and should not be used for the work coil. For a connection you only get one crack at, solder is highly recommended. Even some sites that sell them recommend direct soldering. With no work coil there is...

Your getting a handle on it. Only thing off is that this BMS does not balance the cells. It does however, monitors each cell and will go into protection if too far off or if one cell gets too low ahead of the other cells. Generally they will balance themselves after a few cycles if all in the...

Amazon :tup:

@samlant, that switch should work but not ideal for the task. A FET is a much better way for a couple reasons. No contacts to wear, out but more importantly, less contact voltage bouncing happening which only gets worse as the contacts wear. Your problem could be two possibilities. Either all...

Please use PM system for IH enquiries. Thank you.

Yes, that is copper foil I have installed on the Skellys. The spacing looks closer in the picture but in fact has 2-3mm clearance from the battery posts. Its sticky back tape so will not shift. It is needed to shield the batteries from the eddies as were causing the BMS to trip. Found it to be...

Hmm, you term "high-rise" has me a little confused. Works in houses too! :p I think your talking about the transition time or rise time for the voltage to be presented. Meaning the voltage must be switched to the "on" state quickly, which is pretty much any switch will do. The voltage must also...