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I found some good reading about it below. Pretty much saying to keep it above 20% whenever possible. As well well do not leave at 100% for long. In other words, keep the charge above 20% and below 90% as much as possible. Charging and recharging So how do you make your lithium-ion battery last...

It doesn't look that bad. Don't see any lifted pads or other damage. Just messy solder patches. Just reheat the pads to level out the solder and clean up with an old toothbrush and ISO. Will be ready to get new FETs in no time. :brow:

Yes, you can use while charging but only when the battery is not completely dead. I think the confusion is in the other no, nos. The charger alone, will not work, as can't provide enough power. Do not attempt to use a power supply (PSU) while batteries are inserted. ;)

Yes, it is. :nod: Just let it get a few minutes worth of charge first if the batteries are completely flat. Here's some fun math. I determined it takes about 80 mAh of power per bowl. Based on an 800 mAh battery giving an average of 10 sessions per charge and 4 heat ups per bowl. Therefore, it...

The PSM is designed to be used with batteries only and can be used while charging. If one wants to use with a supply, my recommendation is to remove the battery beforehand. I have not tried to contact S&B directly as I would be asking about their parts sources and would most likely be...

The Mighty's power "supply" has been reported to drive the IH driver assembly directly just fine. It has nothing to do with charging batteries... Please do not confuse a charger and a supply. Results will not be very desirable. Depending on the device, the supply may very well act as a charger...

Link fixed. :D

Hey guys. Just a short note to let you know that I have caught up on all backorders. If I missed anyone, please let me know as I now have stock on all fronts. :D

That's just residue from double-sided tape which was holding the FET board. That driver did initially work but the crack caused the failure.

Are we having fun yet? :D Since this was a working unit at one time, the FETs are the primary suspects. I've had shorted caps before but they show up right away but could have gone bad with time I guess, however, I've never had it happen with these caps. Cold or cracked soldering on the coil...

No soldering needed for any BB stuff, just connectors. ;)

With exception to the failed charger, all you say is normal. The charger does get very hot while in it's peak charge mode but cools down as the charge gets close to complete. However, no enclosure deformities have been reported from getting "too" hot. Either unit can be used while charging. Just...

I made a short video for you guys stuck with bad driver boards and not sure about how to go about changing the FETs out. This is the easiest method I've found if they have never been changed before. If they have to replaced again, the use of solder wick is needed to clean up excess solder from...

Yes, I stand corrected, I met gate and source, a slip up on my part. The end pins, so easy to wrap a resister in place. You are also correct about having some gate resistance. However, haven't run into any switch bounce issues. Also, since it's just being used here as an off/on switch and not an...

You have me stumped as should work the same. However, there is a plan "B". I stopped using those FET boards and have been using a single IRF540N FET and a 10 K resistor instead. Takes less room and more secure. The 10 K resistor goes between the gate and drain. Zoom in on the picture and you'll...

There should be no difference using the FET switch. You have not changed anything but values and oscillating frequency. Maybe a wiring slip up? @Dick Emery, a box mod will not work as a power source as not true DC but rather a PWM, "Pulse Width Modulator" type source for driving heater elements...

This has been an ongoing quality issue with these drivers. They use the cheapest FETs or maybe even rejects from huge batches. I had many issues with them for the first few months as they would blow or have random firing issues. Very few are actually up to snuff. You notice the price change from...

Well, let's just say it's on a back burner that may be a while before I get back to it. The Induction heater endeavor has taken up all my time these days and not giving me a breather. If/when things cool off there, I'll get back to the Projects. Until then. :ninja:

Yes, started to use peek insulators near the end. Nylon works fine if using normally. However, will deform if overheated or left on too long. Here is the comparison between Nylon and Peek. It was actually the lower nylon insulator that caused a short on the peek side one. The peek never did fail.

Yes, I have. It's identical to the regular driver, except one less choke coil. This means that the work coil must have a center tap to function. Which would be an addition wire going halfway into the windings. The board itself is identical and in fact, one can rewire the normal board to be like...