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Yep, what Rusty said. Fortunately, the click is not as dependent on the voltage sag. The click is fairly consistent regardless of the rate of heating.

Considering all 3 heaters are basically the same, the insertion depth of the cap within the coil is a very significant setting. Millimeters matter. The rate of heating follows the battery's charge.

More options - not necessarily replacement options.

The premier option is a variable voltage power supply. Yes, you can slow the bake a lot with that. 12V-10A should do it.

My Beta did that when new and got 'broke in' at some point. I put a little drool on the o-rings for lube and it works great every time now.

You just may want more power for concentrates. Not that I know for sure but more heat faster might help. As to the difference, 1 second in 10 is 10% more heat. Seconds count. I've never tuned for the coil. I have gone deep dive into tuning Flite. perfect at the click every time. You want...

I like cork because it doesn't suck the heat out of the cap right at the clicker like silicone does. @VapeEscapist - Is the cap moving up and down in the coil as you try these experiments? It is the relation with the cap and coil that changes when the cap finally clicks. The deeper the cap is...

You're onto an interesting tangent @RustyOldNail - I notice very little difference in battery voltage on Flite with the exception of how long it takes to heat. It might be a bit different on the Deluxe. As voltage goes down, so does the wattage into the device. This is the timing difference...

Indeed you can @krs.k3i ... since it is acting like a shield, you can selectively heat the cap. A narrow strip along the crimp should slow thing down.

Less spacers if you want more heat.

The clicker end of the cap is exposed to the induction field so it heats up. It doesn't require redirection.

In a way, yes. The coil sets up currents in the work piece.

Those cages in electronics are to keep 'noise' (radiation) in or out. Typically they are shielding a 'noisy' component that requires shielding to pass regulatory agencies, or self interference even. Sensitive circuits use metal shielding to maintain accuracy. You can shield Earth's magnetic...

I haven't looked at the Anvil in any detail. However, your question is fortuitous as I think I learned something useful yesterday. I wrapped tin platted copper wire around the cap. This is that heat-battery noise going on. What I learned is that the wire seems to limit the induction to the...

They do, just not very hard. The easier current flows through those materials, the less effective the heating properties become.

The benefits is a nice looking junction. The o-ring is out of place in the metallic look of the vapCaps. Although Viton is a thermal break, I suspect the tiny air gap works about as well. I find all metal stems get too hot, too fast, so that this small contributor is insignificant. The...

I don't use the last o-ring on any stem.

Yesterday was the first time I realized a relief with some Pineapple Express. I was in pain from a day of repetitive movement. Basically an entire body of soreness. 3 bowls of the P.E. and I could feel the pain melt away. That's a first relief I've noticed from CBD in the months I've been...

@Pepeluis33 - The Anvil may not require more induction. I suspect the induction is actually pretty low since there is no specific high-iron metal in the tip. The cap on a VapCap takes most of the energy from the IH and shares it with the stainless parts. When the cap cools, the heat from the...

The black is a semi-gloss. Nothing like the Omni - this deposition actually adheres properly ;]