HumbleLivings
Well-Known Member
wow thats nice, I enjoy microdosing also,
how are these working for you, do you have any pictures of these caps inside the frolic
haha thats funny that you will use these more on frolic vs the vape it was made for lol
-
SCAM WARNING! See how this scam works in Classifieds.
FROLIC by Limelight Herb
- Thread starter Dr. G
- Start date
how are these working for you, do you have any pictures of these caps inside the frolic
haha thats funny that you will use these more on frolic vs the vape it was made for lol
TigoleBitties
Big and Bouncy
wow thats nice, I enjoy microdosing also,
how are these working for you, do you have any pictures of these caps inside the frolic
haha thats funny that you will use these more on frolic vs the vape it was made for lol
FROLIC by Limelight Herb
Can we please divert from cringefest in this thread? Excitedly awaiting my invoice. Hoping recent orders won’t have to wait on more stock.
fuckcombustion.com
HumbleLivings
Well-Known Member
those caps look like they were made for the Frolic, I found them on the internet
i will definately be buying these for our Frolic
thanks for sharing all the golden gems bro!
TigoleBitties
Big and Bouncy
Last entry for tonight. I feel like I've unlocked low temps in on-demand mode. Basically, to get decent performance with lower temps, you have to restrict your airflow more as the temps get lower. Makes sense to me as restricting airflow will slow the passage of air from the heater through the flower, effectively heating the flower for a longer time than a high airflow setting would.
I suppose you could get this effect by also just slowing your draw but I find it's not so easy to do this, especially if the airflow is on a very open setting.
I just had my best on-demand session yet at 390F. It takes a couple of pulls to get things going but once the vapor starts, the clouds are very big and the taste is really great. Now we're talking.
I suppose you could get this effect by also just slowing your draw but I find it's not so easy to do this, especially if the airflow is on a very open setting.
I just had my best on-demand session yet at 390F. It takes a couple of pulls to get things going but once the vapor starts, the clouds are very big and the taste is really great. Now we're talking.
HumbleLivings
Well-Known Member
haha GET'EM Bro!
so this is good data,
one question how are you drawing?"
are you ripping it really hard or medium rip?
how much are you closing the air 40%?30%?
No rush you can answer back tomorrow if you like, I know its late
I am outside with my daughter and the Telescopes its a pretty clear night!
Just Justin
Well-Known Member
I think this was brought up before but did I read that the Storz and Bickel Dosing Capsules are loose or too tall for the Frolic? Also, has anyone tried the herb “puck” makers for Frolic vaping? Specifically the Storz and Bickel herb presses that make little pucks… I imagine the pucks may be too dense and thick for good results in a mostly convection oven system, where a loose but full bowl is best for good airflow/penetration?
@Dejan LimelightHerb do y’all have plans for a capsule of your own for the Frolic?
@Dejan LimelightHerb do y’all have plans for a capsule of your own for the Frolic?
Heat dissipation properties. You don't want to cool down the vapor too fast as it will cause condensation or rather more condensation and hinder the output vapor. I have explained in more detail in one of the previous posts why the CU was designed the way it was and how the whole thermodynamics principle of it works and why the passages are organized the way they are.
Heat transfer and dissipation properties. Production price is one thing and sales price another.
NOTICE: ALL US ORDERS HAVE BEEN SHIPPED OUT NOW, WE ARE WAITING FOR THE FILE WITH THE TRACKING NUMBERS AND WILL SEND THEM TO EVERYONE BY EMAIL.
TigoleBitties
Big and Bouncy
I'm not drawing super hard but at least medium speed. The nice thing about controlling draw speed through restriction is that even if you want to draw hard, the airflow restriction will limit you and you will still get the slower speeds you need for effective vaping at lower temps.
For tastier on-demand hits at 385-390F, I have restriction set to 60% closed or more. Sounds like a lot but the airflow range on the Frolic is huge.
Yes, the S&B caps fit but are too tall. They will work but the CU doesn't fit flush. I'm using AVLP caps and they're almost perfect but still a couple mm too tall.
I'm quite sure weed pucks, even very compressed, will work well in the Frolic. I'm basing this on the fact that the AVLP also had 3rd party puck-making tools and these worked very well even though its heater has far less power than the Frolic. Also, I pack my AVLP capsules really tight in the Frolic and it just powers through them, effectively prolonging your session.
Even a tight weed puck in on-demand mode with no capsule would be no problem imo depending on airflow/heater settings.
Yes, he has mentioned they will be making capsules down the road for the Frolic.
Last edited:
Sorry, this didn't appear when I answered above. Absolutely yes, we will have them done shortly I can not estimate the exact timeframe at the moment, I will update you as we move along with this and the other accessories.
Another good news it that we received the drafts of the CE safety and EMC certificates and they all passed with flying colors. I will update this info on the website.
AndyO
Well-Known Member
I find battery vapes a lot more miss than hit, but the conduction element and the 2-week guarantee have me interested in taking a punt. A couple of questions:
- would I just order from the EU store to get to Australia?
- how does that 2-week guarantee work when it will take at least that long to get here? Does the 2 weeks start when it lands, and give me 2 weeks to potentially lodge return shipping if I don't like it?
Thanks Dejan, you do a good job here - I feel like you should turn your answers here into a message book and populate your website FAQs, cos all your answers are written already.
- would I just order from the EU store to get to Australia?
- how does that 2-week guarantee work when it will take at least that long to get here? Does the 2 weeks start when it lands, and give me 2 weeks to potentially lodge return shipping if I don't like it?
Thanks Dejan, you do a good job here - I feel like you should turn your answers here into a message book and populate your website FAQs, cos all your answers are written already.
TigoleBitties
Big and Bouncy
I agree with you that battery vapes are hard to get perfect. I haven't finished completely dialing in this vape but I don't think you'll be disappointed with it. It's still early but I'm pretty confident this vape will be a winner. The speed and power is undeniable and I was worried about taste up until last night but no more.
Last night with some airflow control, I feel I've unlocked some really great tasting hits as well. Unless something catastrophic happens in further use it will no doubt be my go-to outside the house. Finally a portable that has power, speed, battery life and ruggedness while capable in both session and on-demand modes.
oddjobold
Vape swap shop
Mines arrived. Sat in the garden this evening getting high and drinking London pride.
Its pretty hardcore. If you fill its massive bowl, it kicks out the biggest clouds I have ever seen from any portable. But its a lot of herb.
One thing I don't like at all. The main button on the side. Its not a nice click, a spongy kinda press, and a couple of times I have miss pressed, not good.
Overall build quality feels good. But I kinda worry a bit around the area the mouthpieces push in. Does not feel solid.
But wow those clouds from a full bowl, destroyed.
Its pretty hardcore. If you fill its massive bowl, it kicks out the biggest clouds I have ever seen from any portable. But its a lot of herb.
One thing I don't like at all. The main button on the side. Its not a nice click, a spongy kinda press, and a couple of times I have miss pressed, not good.
Overall build quality feels good. But I kinda worry a bit around the area the mouthpieces push in. Does not feel solid.
But wow those clouds from a full bowl, destroyed.
thank you for the detail on the button, sounds like there is room for improvement. a satisfying click is a must imo, and maybe something against misfiring too.
TigoleBitties
Big and Bouncy
Nice!
I find it can be a bit sensitive i.e. too easy to press sometimes, although I always feel a click.
I thought so too initially but after using it a while it seems tough enough. I think it's the nature of PEEK plastics that have a bit of flex.
Yep.
My biggest gripe with the Frolic so far is that there's no easy, visible way to see what your airflow is set to. There's a faint line in the PEEK that shows where the airflow stopper is hidden underneath the rotating stem but it's so faint you basically can't see it unless there's a lot of light and contrast. My solution was to place a colorful sticky dot of fabric on the piece so I can see where the airflow stopper is on the dial.
Normally, you're not always adjusting airflow settings but it's easy to move your airflow setting by mistake if you're using the swiveling fold-out mouthpiece and you rotate it.
Flotsam
Well-Known Member
I think your points here are very compelling especially with regard to airflow control. Thanks for posting this.
With regard to where the control indicators are can they be highlighted (eg paint) in some way so they are more visible. My taking after wrenching on cars for many years. Maybe there is a temp fix for now but perhaps this can be addressed in upcoming model revisions by Dejan?
Sativapo
Well-Known Member
Encouraging feedbacks ! Can we have a bit more feedback on microdosing ? About how much is the minimal amount of herb to have a full dark roast at high temps on demand without a reducer or something ? Someone talked about the screen just covered, should that be a bit less then 0.1 I would guess ? Also can someone who already has crafty glass reducers try them ? Can't be patient till end of next week when I should (?) have it. 0.3 is like my standard in week evening consumption, would'nt like to raise my tolerance and vape it in 3 hits.
One would have to assume that the reducer would work, but like you, I'll have to wait until one is in my hands to be sure. The crafty/mighty capsules are 8.5-8.6mm tall, the reducers that I have from sneaky pete are 7mm tall. I believe the reported gap left by the capsules was just over 1mm.
TigoleBitties
Big and Bouncy
Cheers!
Yes, I was searching for something like paint to mark the piece initially but had none in the house. I couldn't even find any liquid paper that I thought might work.
I just tried this amount for you. Barely covered the screen, so around 0.07g I'm guessing of medium grind. I dumped it in loosely with no spacers or capsules. No problems vaporizing it completely to a dark roast at 430F with a half-restricted airflow. I think this heater could handle very tiny amounts.
Last edited:
Ok, so I can't thank you all enough for everything, but mostly the invaluable feedback.
OPERATION GUINEA PIG SUCCESSFUL!
Anyway, since the first batch is pretty much gone now, there is space for some tweaks... I will address some below, and don't get me wrong, I am a picky cunt so I enjoy this myself:
1. PODS - Initially, I designed the cooler with 2 steps for the mesh screen. This allows an additional fine screen to be installed, or the coarse screen moved to a lower or higher position (The idea was that when used upside down with a water piece, the mesh would hold the herb tucked into the oven). In reality, this doesn't change things much as the conductive part of the heating simply liquifies the oils in the herb and is not hot enough to evaporate almost anything (The temperature of the oven is approx. half of that of the air, adding the heat transfer difference variable between air to herb and oven radiant heat to herb, the oven doesn't play a big part in the evaporation process). It's main function is acting as a heat sink and liquifying the oils. This is why the Frolic cooks the herb less when idle in session mode (Albeit there is still some heat transfer from hot air from the heater naturally going up as everything hot does)
Anyway, we can completely eliminate the lower mesh disk position, meaning the S&B capsules most of you already have or are easy for most to obtain would fit perfectly. We could also make near identical ones and call it a day, since this will 100% work well. Please let me know if anyone would have a problem with this, I don't want it to be sketchy for whatever reason. This would be the quickest solution, and probably the best.
2. AFC POSITION - I didn't think people would tinker much with airflow once set or at least this was the initial input I had, yet here we are. Below is a simple solution. you could easily see (And even feel) the AFC position and it won't look bad imo. A small bump ( I would optimize its shape and style it a bit better but something like this:
3. BUTTON - The Frolic has a membrane fire button, as they have the lowest profile. These buttons are reasonably clicky, on the Frolic, depending how fast you press it, the click will be more or less pronounced. The reason behind this is that I wanted to make the button more durable and less prone to damage from hard presses so I added a recess and a silicone O-ring around it inside on the back of the button, which coincidentally makes the button more spongy. The said O-ring below highlighted in blue:
4. SCREEN POSITION - I have added the vibration and the LED which tell pretty much everything you need to know. Tilting the device to check the screen or access the buttons shouldn't be big of a deal for most and is a tradeoff for having a clean looking device, more durable and less intrusive.
About the durability, drop tests say that most impacts will happen on other of the 2 bottom edges, front or back or the button side of the mod if the mod is on the table and knocked over as at this height it has just enough time to rotate to the heavier (battery) side. Why a cat will suffer a greater injury if it falls from less height. From higher up, it has more time to get into position. The screen itself is recessed and (Although it might seem clumsy when someone looks inside the device) it rests on foam instead on a plastic cradle. This was proven to be the most effective mounting method, so unless you drop it directly on something tiny and sharp there should be no issues. If this does, however happen, it's down to 2 screws and clicking a new screen into position, takes 1 minute and costs almost nothing.
This post is already way too long, I will comment on accessories in a separate post.
If you have anything to add to the above, do let me know and thank you again! I don't think I have done a bad job with the device for the first go
OPERATION GUINEA PIG SUCCESSFUL!
Anyway, since the first batch is pretty much gone now, there is space for some tweaks... I will address some below, and don't get me wrong, I am a picky cunt so I enjoy this myself:
1. PODS - Initially, I designed the cooler with 2 steps for the mesh screen. This allows an additional fine screen to be installed, or the coarse screen moved to a lower or higher position (The idea was that when used upside down with a water piece, the mesh would hold the herb tucked into the oven). In reality, this doesn't change things much as the conductive part of the heating simply liquifies the oils in the herb and is not hot enough to evaporate almost anything (The temperature of the oven is approx. half of that of the air, adding the heat transfer difference variable between air to herb and oven radiant heat to herb, the oven doesn't play a big part in the evaporation process). It's main function is acting as a heat sink and liquifying the oils. This is why the Frolic cooks the herb less when idle in session mode (Albeit there is still some heat transfer from hot air from the heater naturally going up as everything hot does)
Anyway, we can completely eliminate the lower mesh disk position, meaning the S&B capsules most of you already have or are easy for most to obtain would fit perfectly. We could also make near identical ones and call it a day, since this will 100% work well. Please let me know if anyone would have a problem with this, I don't want it to be sketchy for whatever reason. This would be the quickest solution, and probably the best.
2. AFC POSITION - I didn't think people would tinker much with airflow once set or at least this was the initial input I had, yet here we are. Below is a simple solution. you could easily see (And even feel) the AFC position and it won't look bad imo. A small bump ( I would optimize its shape and style it a bit better but something like this:
3. BUTTON - The Frolic has a membrane fire button, as they have the lowest profile. These buttons are reasonably clicky, on the Frolic, depending how fast you press it, the click will be more or less pronounced. The reason behind this is that I wanted to make the button more durable and less prone to damage from hard presses so I added a recess and a silicone O-ring around it inside on the back of the button, which coincidentally makes the button more spongy. The said O-ring below highlighted in blue:
4. SCREEN POSITION - I have added the vibration and the LED which tell pretty much everything you need to know. Tilting the device to check the screen or access the buttons shouldn't be big of a deal for most and is a tradeoff for having a clean looking device, more durable and less intrusive.
About the durability, drop tests say that most impacts will happen on other of the 2 bottom edges, front or back or the button side of the mod if the mod is on the table and knocked over as at this height it has just enough time to rotate to the heavier (battery) side. Why a cat will suffer a greater injury if it falls from less height. From higher up, it has more time to get into position. The screen itself is recessed and (Although it might seem clumsy when someone looks inside the device) it rests on foam instead on a plastic cradle. This was proven to be the most effective mounting method, so unless you drop it directly on something tiny and sharp there should be no issues. If this does, however happen, it's down to 2 screws and clicking a new screen into position, takes 1 minute and costs almost nothing.
This post is already way too long, I will comment on accessories in a separate post.
If you have anything to add to the above, do let me know and thank you again! I don't think I have done a bad job with the device for the first go
Zero_Combustions
Active Member
Adding the notch to the AFC is a great idea.Ok, so I can't thank you all enough for everything, but mostly the invaluable feedback.
OPERATION GUINEA PIG SUCCESSFUL!
Anyway, since the first batch is pretty much gone now, there is space for some tweaks... I will address some below, and don't get me wrong, I am a picky cunt so I enjoy this myself:
1. PODS - Initially, I designed the cooler with 2 steps for the mesh screen. This allows an additional fine screen to be installed, or the coarse screen moved to a lower or higher position (The idea was that when used upside down with a water piece, the mesh would hold the herb tucked into the oven). In reality, this doesn't change things much as the conductive part of the heating simply liquifies the oils in the herb and is not hot enough to evaporate almost anything (The temperature of the oven is approx. half of that of the air, adding the heat transfer difference variable between air to herb and oven radiant heat to herb, the oven doesn't play a big part in the evaporation process). It's main function is acting as a heat sink and liquifying the oils. This is why the Frolic cooks the herb less when idle in session mode (Albeit there is still some heat transfer from hot air from the heater naturally going up as everything hot does)
Anyway, we can completely eliminate the lower mesh disk position, meaning the S&B capsules most of you already have or are easy for most to obtain would fit perfectly. We could also make near identical ones and call it a day, since this will 100% work well. Please let me know if anyone would have a problem with this, I don't want it to be sketchy for whatever reason. This would be the quickest solution, and probably the best.
2. AFC POSITION - I didn't think people would tinker much with airflow once set or at least this was the initial input I had, yet here we are. Below is a simple solution. you could easily see (And even feel) the AFC position and it won't look bad imo. A small bump ( I would optimize its shape and style it a bit better but something like this:
3. BUTTON - The Frolic has a membrane fire button, as they have the lowest profile. These buttons are reasonably clicky, on the Frolic, depending how fast you press it, the click will be more or less pronounced. The reason behind this is that I wanted to make the button more durable and less prone to damage from hard presses so I added a recess and a silicone O-ring around it inside on the back of the button, which coincidentally makes the button more spongy. The said O-ring below highlighted in blue:
4. SCREEN POSITION - I have added the vibration and the LED which tell pretty much everything you need to know. Tilting the device to check the screen or access the buttons shouldn't be big of a deal for most and is a tradeoff for having a clean looking device, more durable and less intrusive.
About the durability, drop tests say that most impacts will happen on other of the 2 bottom edges, front or back or the button side of the mod if the mod is on the table and knocked over as at this height it has just enough time to rotate to the heavier (battery) side. Why a cat will suffer a greater injury if it falls from less height. From higher up, it has more time to get into position. The screen itself is recessed and (Although it might seem clumsy when someone looks inside the device) it rests on foam instead on a plastic cradle. This was proven to be the most effective mounting method, so unless you drop it directly on something tiny and sharp there should be no issues. If this does, however happen, it's down to 2 screws and clicking a new screen into position, takes 1 minute and costs almost nothing.
This post is already way too long, I will comment on accessories in a separate post.
If you have anything to add to the above, do let me know and thank you again! I don't think I have done a bad job with the device for the first go
I don’t mind the main button at all. Feels solid and tactile enough to me.
I don’t mind the screen being on the bottom as it creates the cleaner look. One thing I would like is the ability to dim the brightness of that screen (similar to what Arizer vapes do) as I find it’s very bright if you’re using it at night and wanting to be discreet. Because the screen is hidden when the unit is placed on a surface, it’s a lot of light all of a sudden when you pick it up. It’s not a huge deal, just a QOL improvement.
I find the mesh screen in the CU to be a bit of a pain. It doesn’t seem to sit well inside the ridge and I’ve gone through 3-4 screens because they get stuck inside and then pulling them out often causes them to fray or become damaged. Again it’s not a big issue but a small gripe I have.
Otherwise, I absolutely love the Frolic. It’s a beast in every way. I have now dialled it in so that I can have a decent, tasty and fluffy session for 500s. Or, I can stick it in on demand mode and clear a bowl in 2 massive rips. No other vape has ever given me so much versatility.
The fact that the Frolic is still in its infancy is so exciting to me. I cannot wait to see what’s to come.
Final thing is I would love to see some customisation options for colours of the CU and the aluminium disc on the top. Would be a great way to add your unique style to the vape.