• Do NOT click on any vaporpedia.com links. The domain has been compromised and will attempt to infect your system. See https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/warning-vaporpedia-com-has-been-compromised.54960/.

Ed's WoodScents Log Vape - Ed's TnT

jardri

Vapor Dreams
This is cool my friend. Appreciate you sharing. Can you explain a bit more? Did you find that the dimmers output was not as consistent as the VVPS? What setting have you settled on?

I am curious because I only have the dimmer and have always felt It provided a great experience. I do have the new heater. I’m usually dialed in somewhere between 7 and 8.

I dont have a multimeter good enough to measure output consistency with 100% accuracy but It seemed stable to me. The difference might be explained with the noise an ac adapter has. Sorry this is beyond my english level so I cant make it clear, but if you compare the output charts of a regular wall plug vs a lab VVPS maybe you can figure out what I try to say.

Edit: some basic info Some Basic Principles in Choosing Your DC power Supply | GPS LIMITED
 

The Stray Fox

Separated from the group
Sorry this is beyond my english level so I cant make it clear
No worries. Your english is great. I enjoyed the article but stopped halfway through when it said, “If you only partly understood the previous, you should stop here.”:) You’ve convinced me to just get a VVPS and see for myself.
 

jardri

Vapor Dreams
Allright but watch out! A cheap VVPS will have the exact same performance as the stock dimmer but with cool digital numbers.

In my case I was lucky to have an old trusty analog lab supply wich delivers ultra stable voltage. And even with this one differences in performance are so subtle that dont make up for the investment if you dont already have it.

Also it is important noting that my power supply consumes 100W which is like 20 times more than a wall plug and its bulky and heavy.

What I want to say is yes, the differences exist, yes, they are noticeable but overall the stock solution (wall plug + dimmer) is the most energy efficient one and the most practical for an everyday usage.
 

JEMSKU

Well-Known Member
I've been using a 5/8" (9.5mm) mesh screen for a little over a month now, and I thought I'd share my thoughts given the hype around mesh screens.

I purchased these screens here at a cost of $8.99 CAD for 100. They are described as "premium stainless steel" but the grade is not advertised. Its mesh count is stated as 60, presumably threads per square inch. These are not the same size as the DDave mesh vapcap screens, but the cost is much much lower, especially in Canada. I believe the screens I purchased are actually the same size as the screens used for the ArGo.

The fit in my stainless steel tips is good. It is larger than the internal diameter of the tip, so it becomes concave when inserted. This keeps it secure without relying on the ridge intended to seat the original CCD. I think that the capacity of the tip is unchanged, as the void under the screen in the edge is compensated for the by the concavity into the air channel of the tip:

20200618_172254.jpg20200618_172219.jpg

I found the differences between the mesh screen and the stainless steel CCDs to be subtle at first. Airflow did in fact seem improved. I had hoped that the concave shape and resulting void beneath the screen in the edge of the bowl would improve airflow around the herb and subsequently solve the issue of unextracted bud in the edge that I had with the CCDs (admittedly I was never able to seat the CCDs in the ridge properly, it always just laid flay across the bottom of the bowl). To my disappointment, there was no difference in extraction.

I should explain this extraction 'problem' perhaps: When I debowl my tips, the AVB often comes out with a couple taps as a little clump. This clump appears to be quite light around the outside where it was in contact with the tip and screen compared to the exposed bud at the top. However, busting up this clump shows that the herb is in fact almost completely extracted, and even the bits that were in contact with the tip are fully extracted everywhere but the actual surface that was touching metal. I had only hoped to see that the underside of the clump, where it rests on the screen above the void in the edges, might come out dark as it does at the surface, but it does not. So, the extremely thorough extraction has not been improved upon, but this is where the woodscents falls to the classic vapcap heating method and nothing has changed here. IMO, conduction will always provide more thorough extraction, but the benefits of convection win.

Anyways, as I continued to use the mesh screen, the differences went from subtle to negligible. When I debowl my tips I use my MFLB brush in the tip probably 70% of the time, and I feel that it's realistic that any tip or bowl for any vape will eventually build up some residue. While I used the mesh screen in my WPA, I continued to use the direct draw stem with the 2017 SS tip and CCD that I had been using for some time already. I attempted to time this assessment for when I had run about as much bud through the mesh screen tip as I had for the CCD tip, as I use the WPA much more. It wasn't perfect, but both tips had more or less plateaued at at point where brushing out the tips would prevent more residue from accumulating, but unreachable holes and edges had filled.

When I took the tips for a clean, I saw that much more residue had built up on the mesh screen than the CCD. Most of this buildup was on the underside of the mesh, in the edge void, while the upper surfaces of both screens were kept quite clean by brushing. The center of the screens over the air channel of the tips had remained mostly clear on both tips:

20200618_162942.jpg20200618_162959.jpg

I didn't see a large different in particle filtration, as the air channel beneath both of the screens had a layer of debris and resin. This picture shows that the mesh screen tip had actually built up more, but I believe this may be because I had ran more material through the WPA at this point. Regardless, particle filtration definitely didn't seem to be improved (CCD tip on the bottom):

tips.jpg

At this stage, the tips and screens performed more or less identically. Airflow had evened out between the two. Extraction was a draw, as it was in the beginning. The initial period of high airflow was nice, but it faded quickly, and since the woodscents benefits from a very slow draw, I wasn't really able to enjoy it as much as I could have. I take good care of my gear, but I am not so committed to cleanliness and peak performance that I would ever find myself cleaning and changing the screen often enough to maintain this state of higher airflow.

My verdict, as far as performance and usage goes, is that it's a draw. I don't see mesh screens to be the performance gamechanger as I've read on vapor forums.

But, while I was wrapping up this assessment and cleaning, I was reminded of the value of the mesh screens when I realized I had lost my CCD. Big sad, as they do look pretty in the tips. Fortunately, I have nearly 100 mesh screens that were so cheap that I can basically start throwing dirty screens away instead of trying to scrub them clean, and not stress about losing a $3 springy disk, while having my tips perform and maintain essentially just as well as they did with the CCD. For that reason alone, I can recommend that people consider buying these instead of CCDs if they are needing replacements.

Happy vaping!
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
i am not going to compare it to the tinymight here
good call. not because it is not intersting, just because the chase after fresh batteries each time Vs a device which is plugged into the wall and working as good as the TM , sounds like a good plan overall, so it has its advantage for sure. micro bowl also which produces clouds also sounds perfect so I'm happy that you're happy man, it looks awesome tho! :tup:
 

poutine

Well-Known Member
Hopefully will have my Hackberry Tnt next week! I got the VVPS and as soon as I get it dialed in, I'll check with the multimeter to make sure all's good. I don't expect anything different as Ed has already bench tested my vape.
 

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
I still prefer my $1 for 100 cheapo screens with my $1, 8 or 9 mm punch, 200 screens for $2 over @DDave screens in my WPA as the mesh count is very low and lets crumbs through but is great for airflow. @DDave screens are saved for my wooden stems. Slightly less airflow than my wad punched jobs but they stop scooby snacks.
I also never take out the WPA mesh to clean, I place the GonG wpa with Ti tip in a jam jar of iso and run it in a water bath in my ultrasonic cleaner then out of the iso into a plain water run, good as new!
 
I've really dialed in my Woodscents lately. ~11.2v on the VVPS seems to be the sweet spot for dry hits. The glass charlie cooling stem is a godsend. I can get insanely big tasty rips this way, with very little flower (~.025g is my standard load). Added a bit of grinder kief to my last bowl. Wow! This vape never fails to satisfy.
 

cosimo

Well-Known Member
Hello friends... I'm getting a Lite kit from sneaky pete... plan to let my MV1 just for using in the car or away from home, and will have a woodscents for home daily usage but not with water, just dry. I hope you could give me some input regarding the glass stem options, please.
The kit comes with the gnarly glass stem (and ti tip), and i want to get an extra glass stem.. but i was wondering if you thought an additional gnarly stem is a good idea or if a shorter aroma tube from Ed's would be enough for a dry hit as smooth or as close to the smoothness (and flavor) of the MV1's which I use at low temps
Any input is appreciated.
 
@Summer I believe it's African Mahogany.

@cosimo Personally, I would get a wood stem to pair with the glass cooling stem, since it can't break. You can definitely use a stock stem from Ed for dry hits, especially on lower temps. I much prefer having a cooling stem at higher temps, however.
 

cosimo

Well-Known Member
...

@cosimo Personally, I would get a wood stem to pair with the glass cooling stem, since it can't break. You can definitely use a stock stem from Ed for dry hits, especially on lower temps. I much prefer having a cooling stem at higher temps, however.

Thanks, I will take a look at those.

@cosimo, what wood is the WS Lite?

Not sure but there's a video where Pete mentions African Mahogany while talking about the Lite Kit.
 

jardri

Vapor Dreams
I had a cat attack last night on my woodscents wire and I cant find a 12V connector that gives me good connection to the unit. All my standard 12Vpsu have a weaker connection and the ws doesnt even get warm enough. Is there anything i can DIY to fix this issue?
 
jardri,
  • Like
Reactions: arb
Picked up a carb adapter from Oregon Glass Blower. Love it. So much easier to clear the bubbler now. Really digging my current setup.

ACAAABCE-CE3-E-473-A-9587-8-B43-CBB1-BB28.jpg
 

MinnBobber

Well-Known Member
Nice man! Jealous. I’ve been wanting one of those. Is its quality as good as it looks online? Ive heard great stuff about them but I’ve been hesitant because of the price tag. They are on eBay too!

Yes, all of Oregon Glass pieces are top top quality. I have a dozen, all great quality. They are pricey indeed, but worth it.
 

Bigpoppafudge420

Well-Known Member
I purchased one of the Ed's woodscents minimalist kits from VapeNorth a few weeks ago and it's remarkable how fast this handy little vape worked itself into the background of my life. It's like an old friend thats always been there. Its amazing having this sexy little log just sit at temp on my desk all day thats compatible with all my dynavap stuff. Absolutely love this little beast.
 
Top Bottom