Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

[Megaton]

Thank you very much for all of your advice and help guys! I love this place.

 

[jarr92]

You won't be able to see the heater like that btw, just the screen covering it (multi-layer course and fine mesh)

Let me rephrase then - I ordered a V2 and want to compare the inside of mine with other V2’s purchased. There is a little metal “dot” on my screen, so I just wanted to make sure that was supposed to be there. I’m still waiting on my batteries and mod, so it is still unused.

 

[cybrguy]

That dot, if it is what I think, is what holds the 2 screen together. A better way was discovered which the newest versions employ.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Let me rephrase then - I ordered a V2 and want to compare the inside of mine with other V2’s purchased. There is a little metal “dot” on my screen, so I just wanted to make sure that was supposed to be there. I’m still waiting on my batteries and mod, so it is still unused.

Yes that is normal, though I didn't think any V2's had it... That is fine regardless

 

[jarr92]

That dot, if it is what I think, is what holds the 2 screen together. A better way was discovered which the newest versions employ.

Ah okay, that’s what I thought but just wanted to make sure.

There are different versions of V2? Mine was just purchased last week.

 

[Summer]

Damn that little black dot.

About the screen- i already seem to have a little black spot where it appears some herb has fallen onto it and burned in

 

[bossman]

No dot on my V2 screen

 

[badbee]

My new v2 has the dot. As others mentioned RBT came up with a new technique for connecting the screens and so old stock will have it but the very newest stock (in the future?) won't. It has no impact on functionality.

 

[KeroZen]

I don't think the distance really matters. The hot air flow from element is a closed path and has nowhere else to go but through the payload.

Distance does make a big difference really, as experienced with every convection vape I tested. I'm not 100% sure but I suspect it's a law similar to light energy where the loss is correlated to the square of the distance.

 

[Summer]

NEVERMIND! Answered below. Thanks everyone!

@RastaBuddhaTao, what exactly is the black dot on the screen for, & what versions of the Splinter & Z have it? Maybe we can lay this question to rest once for all. Thanks!

Want to mention that it's great having you on the threads.

 

[Hippie]

@Summer
@RastaBuddhaTao explained that in the Z thread
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/splinter-z-by-rbt.34076/page-50#post-1363407

 

[Shit Snacks]

@RastaBuddhaTao, what exactly is the black dot on the screen for, & what versions of the Splinter & Z have it? Maybe we can lay this question to rest once for all. Thanks!

Want to mention that it's great having you on the threads.

Yep he already explained it, there must have been screens prepared so they have to use those first, for new V2s, though earlier V2s don't have it. Nothing to be concerned about if you have one or don't

 

[cybrguy]

Right. The photo of the mark is on the preceding page, post #1212 of that thread.

The initial Splinter V1's and a few of the Splinter Z V1s have screens with the resistance weld (dark spot visible on the heater screen).

Based on what Ryan said, @Shit Snacks, I would have to assume that @jarr92 got a V1 & not a V2. You can't assume that there were leftover over screens used in the V2. And if I'm right (without the hassle of doing a search), the only difference is that the V2 is all ceramic insulation while the V1 is both ceramic & mica. Functionality, however, is exactly the same.

mod note: Oops, I merged posts by two different members. See correction below.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Based on what Ryan said, @Shit Snacks, I would have to assume that @jarr92 got a V1 & not a V2. You can't assume that there were leftover over screens used in the V2. And if I'm right (without the hassle of doing a search), the only difference is that the V2 is all ceramic insulation while the V1 is both ceramic & mica. Functionality, however, is exactly the same.

Ah true, I just didn't want to assume he was lying about what he had or that he was wrong if he just bought it lol The point is that it is normal either way, for V1 or V2. And the best way to tell the two apart is the wood species and glass color used ofcourse, V2 is blackwood/smoked

 

[Summer]

Well I didn't want to assume he was lying about what he had or that he was wrong if he just bought it lol

What? There would be no motive for him to lie. And he said he wanted to know what the spot was before he used it for the 1st time, so it would seem logical that he recently received it. Unless someone is traveling for an extensive amount of time or is on a t-break or something else highly unusual, what vaper doesn't use their new vape as soon as possible.

@jarr92, when & where did you buy it from, & what wood is it?

 

[Shit Snacks]

Let me rephrase then - I ordered a V2 and want to compare the inside of mine with other V2’s purchased. There is a little metal “dot” on my screen, so I just wanted to make sure that was supposed to be there. I’m still waiting on my batteries and mod, so it is still unused.

I was just kidding @Summer, tried to edit my post after. This post^ is what made me presume my presumptions...

 

[Megaton]

Damn that little black dot.

Lol Summer! That post must have been from pages / ages ago!

Spoke to Vapefiend, but unfortunately they are only able to provide service for the V1/V2s, and not the American made ones, which is fair enough and kind of what I was expecting.

I have had this splinter for months now, so there is no chance I'm within warranty. But I will email Ryan regardless.

Ah well.

 

[Doktor Dub]

@Megaton

I also have one of the later american made Splinters and as you are in the UK, it could well be that your one is also from vapefiend. Perhaps there was a batch which runs relatively cool because i have to use 45Watt or a bit above to get good clouds and always wondered about the settings other users here talk about it.
With the standard Mouthpiece it was hard to impossible to get steady good results, with the Vapefiend cooling Mouthpiece it got MUCH better.
I use it daily but still can not imagine useing it under 45 Watt....

Just my , don t know if it is helpful, have a great day!

 

[Megaton]

Thank you @Doktor Dub , I really appreciate your insight there, very helpful! I have been keeping an eye out for the short cooling stems at vapefiend, though really I'll probably just use it through water or a whip (got a splinter to whip adapter) as it's not my first choice for out of the house.

 

[KeroZen]

But did you try drawing *really* slowly?

Like when you try to do it slow, do it even slower! Through the stock stem that is, not through water.

Alternatively, try partially blocking the air intakes like a carb. Helps regulate your speed and the air flow too.

 

[pakalolo]

Oops. It's early and I haven't had my coffee. I think I just merged a post by @Summer with a post by @cybrguy but I'm not sure. If so, apologies to both of you. I think this is how it should be:

Right. The photo of the mark is on the preceding page, post #1212 of that thread.

@jarr92, when & where did you buy it from, & what wood is it?

Based on what Ryan said, @Shit Snacks, I would have to assume that @jarr92 got a V1 & not a V2. You can't assume that there were leftover over screens used in the V2. And if I'm right (without the hassle of doing a search), the only difference is that the V2 is all ceramic insulation while the V1 is both ceramic & mica. Functionality, however, is exactly the same.

Edit: Corrected the attributions...

 

[Summer]

Oops. It's early and I haven't had my coffee. I think I just merged a post by @Summer with a post by @cybrguy but I'm not sure. If so, apologies to both of you. I think this is how it should be:

Forgiven.

You just have the authors reversed. The top post is cybrguy's; the bottom post mine.

 

[Megaton]

But did you try drawing *really* slowly?

Like when you try to do it slow, do it even slower! Through the stock stem that is, not through water.

Alternatively, try partially blocking the air intakes like a carb. Helps regulate your speed and the air flow too.

Will try this tonight and see what happens! Haha breathing slow through water is what lead me to the combustion event I earlier posted about, so I can see why you advised that!

 

[flammy]

But did you try drawing *really* slowly?

Like when you try to do it slow, do it even slower! Through the stock stem that is, not through water.

Alternatively, try partially blocking the air intakes like a carb. Helps regulate your speed and the air flow too.

I had the same issue of not being able to get vapor unless I was running hot with my v1 when I initially got it. It was extremely frustrating and was so hot that it was uncomfortable to draw from the stem. For some reason, I wasn't using my cooling stem. After putting on cooling stem, it is now much more comfortable to do longer slower draws. I find that pulsing in wattage mode helps too. I'm a noob with my v1 but I think there is hope here.

 

[Megaton]

I had the same issue of not being able to get vapor unless I was running hot with my v1 when I initially got it. It was extremely frustrating and was so hot that it was uncomfortable to draw from the stem. For some reason, I wasn't using my cooling stem. After putting on cooling stem, it is now much more comfortable to do longer slower draws. I find that pulsing in wattage mode helps too. I'm a noob with my v1 but I think there is hope here.

What wattage (what what!) are you using @flammy ?