What is the best log Vaporiser on the market today

[Stu]

That actualy makes more sense Stu. Since the airflow is more restrictive there is no need for a higher temp, otherwise it would follow a bad case of over vaporization aka combustion.

I'm guessing the Vapo would be somewhere around smoking hot.

I don't mean to confuse matters, but I don't think the airflow is any more restrictive on my CRZ than my PDs. They are similar, yes but if anything, the airflow is less restrictive IMO. Maybe it has to do with the larger diameter of stem and heating chamber in the CRZ.

 

[lwien]

The PD's may be more restrictive, Stu, but man, for the first two hits on a stem, I can take in more than my lungs can handle in each of those hits (about a six second hit)

 

[stickstones]

come on, lwien...you don't count in this. you're a vaporist anomaly. you still getting by on one stem a night? probably still vapin the quarter you bought at the beginning of the year!

 

[Stu]

I felt like lwien this morning. One PD stem of Blue Dream to start off my day had me zooted until about noon.

Unlike lwien however, I went back for more at about noon.

 

[vorrange]

I don't mean to confuse matters, but I don't think the airflow is any more restrictive on my CRZ than my PDs. They are similar, yes but if anything, the airflow is less restrictive IMO. Maybe it has to do with the larger diameter of stem and heating chamber in the CRZ.

Ha! I was feeling so proud of how i found a reasonable explanation, hehe. I was like this: Now, i am like this:

 

[lwien]

come on, lwien...you don't count in this. you're a vaporist anomaly. you still getting by on one stem a night? probably still vapin the quarter you bought at the beginning of the year!

That's why I don't buy quarters. An eighth is as high as I'll go. But ya, still getting by on one stem a night. Sometimes, 3/4 of a stem.

I felt like lwien this morning. One PD stem of Blue Dream to start off my day had me zooted until about noon.

Unlike lwien however, I went back for more at about noon.

Yup. That's why I don't start till after 8 or 9:00 at night.

Gotta really conserve now though. Never really had to before, but now I do. The feds just raided all of the dispensaries within a 25 mile radius. They hit Los Angeles and Eagle rock pretty hard. My dispensary of choice was shut down this past week. The only thing left now is a delivery service. Never used one before. Kinda iffy.......Thinkin' about giving one a shot, but still, it's kinda weird having a stranger come up to your door with weed. Hell, before there were dispensaries, I bought my weed through friends. [oooops...............sorry for the derail]

 

[OhTheAgony]

Guys, one of the most hilarious threads i had the pleasure to read lately.

How about running temp with the regular power source, i would love to see how they measure in comparison to each other. I understand the CRZ is the cooler and the HI the hotter.

From what i read it would be something like:

cold - CRZ - PD - UD - WW- HI - hot

It was a lot of fun posting here too last night. To be honest I was surprised to see the thread left open, I though OPs like this weren't allowed on FC. Some things have changed I guess.

I don't think it's realistic to classify them in terms of heat though.

In essence the HI should always be the hottest on the same voltage, simply because Alan placed the heating element very high so it's just the closest to the herbs from all the logs I know of.

I'm not sure what the difference between the WW should be, but mine runs cooler than my UD on the same voltage.

The things is, they all use these 20 Ohm Ohmite resistors as a heating element, but Ohmite's quality control doesn't seem that good because I've seen them rate anywhere from 18 to well over 23 Ohm in rl.

This causes major performance differences (U=I*R).

My HI for instance has a 22 Ohm resistance, which should make it one of the cooler running HI's. My UD has a 19 Ohm resistor which makes it one of the hottest Dogs out there, and my WW sits in between them at 21 Ohm.

Irl this translates to about 11,3V for my HI, around 11,6V for my UD and 11,8V for my WW to get the ABV the same color (sorry, I don't have an infrared thermometer). But the difference in stem design should also be factored in there somehow & I haven't found a way to do that just yet (I'm pretty sure I never will, so don't wait for it ).

There are also slight differences in the output of the power supplies, plus some of them won't work on our 220V network so we can't even test them with their original power supplies anyway, which makes location yet another factor.

For these reasons I think it's impossible to make a definite statement about which one runs hotter or cooler, although the HI does have an edge over it's competitors in that department because of it's design.

A variable voltage PSU makes all those things sort of redundant though, just find the voltage you like the way it performs at best & just forget about it. You see why I'm such a big fan of those?

 

[stickstones]

thanks,ota...I didn't realize there was that much difference in the resistors. can my standard voltage meter measure my resistors Ohm's?

 

[OhTheAgony]

I don't know how standard your standard voltmeter is Sticks

Are you referring to a simple multimeter (then yes) or that thingie Alan send you (then no)?

It's a real bitch to get the multimeter prongs (do you even call 'm that?) in the logs power socket without shorting them though, you might have to fabricate something to make it easier. Would you happen to have one of these perhaps?

Oh, and make sure everything is unplugged before you start touching it with a multimeter on the Ohm-setting, or you'll blow your multimeter's fuse.

 

[stickstones]

I'm real close to deciding to bite the bullit on the VV supply thing. If I do I will harrass you about this then.

 

[OhTheAgony]

Sure, feel free to

Keep in mind I live in 220V land though. I'm know a few from links other Americans posted, but I'm not familiar with the actual units that are sold in your country.

 

[vorrange]

It was a lot of fun posting here too last night. To be honest I was surprised to see the thread left open, I though OPs like this weren't allowed on FC. Some things have changed I guess.

I don't think it's realistic to classify them in terms of heat though.

In essence the HI should always be the hottest on the same voltage, simply because Alan placed the heating element very high so it's just the closest to the herbs from all the logs I know of.

I'm not sure what the difference between the WW should be, but mine runs cooler than my UD on the same voltage.

The things is, they all use these 20 Ohm Ohmite resistors as a heating element, but Ohmite's quality control doesn't seem that good because I've seen them rate anywhere from 18 to well over 23 Ohm in rl.

This causes major performance differences (U=I*R).

My HI for instance has a 22 Ohm resistance, which should make it one of the cooler running HI's. My UD has a 19 Ohm resistor which makes it one of the hottest Dogs out there, and my WW sits in between them at 21 Ohm.

Irl this translates to about 11,3V for my HI, around 11,6V for my UD and 11,8V for my WW to get the ABV the same color (sorry, I don't have an infrared thermometer). But the difference in stem design should also be factored in there somehow & I haven't found a way to do that just yet (I'm pretty sure I never will, so don't wait for it ).

There are also slight differences in the output of the power supplies, plus some of them won't work on our 220V network so we can't even test them with their original power supplies anyway, which makes location yet another factor.

For these reasons I think it's impossible to make a definite statement about which one runs hotter or cooler, although the HI does have an edge over it's competitors in that department because of it's design.

A variable voltage PSU makes all those things sort of redundant though, just find the voltage you like the way it performs at best & just forget about it. You see why I'm such a big fan of those?

I thought the difference was more about the resistance used than the distance to the bowl, but that makes sense. And the voltage differences are minor so, in theory, the temp shouldn't change much than a few degrees.

The power supplies shouldn't be an issue though.. they have to input the same voltage anyway regardless of wether its 220V or 110V. Did you find differences between them?

Also, when you talk about stem design, how do you think it correlates with the other variables like temperature and the ability to maintain it? I'm curious about this.

And i might take your advice on the VVPS in Europe, i plan on getting one someday as well.

 

[OhTheAgony]

You can test it with your DBV I think. When I still had my SSV I noticed it performed way better when I pulled the heating element all the way up until it was almost touching the heater cover, when I first got it the element sat really low and I needed to turn up the control dial much higher to get it to work. I also had one very long wand that needed a lot of weed to get some vapor from, so it seems to make a lot of difference indeed.

The HI and WW power supply function on a wide input range, but Dave ships a huge unregulated power brick to his US customers that only works on 110V. He used to have some regulated ones with EU plugs for overseas customers, but those turned out to only put out 11,8V if I remember correctly & didn't work to well with most UDs. That's the only original PSU I have myself btw, after I got my variable I've bought all of my logs without a power supply.

Minor voltage differences can also have great impacts. In the appropriate range 0,1V can give you an extra hit or two per bowl, and if I'd go only 1V higher on my HI I'd be combusting at the end of every bowl.

I'll get back to you on stem design, I've already let half my meal get cold because I was to eager to type that ^^ out

 

[vorrange]

That could explain why some people report that their DBV needs to be at a higher position in the knob. I have to try this.

I didn't know a difference that small could give you combustion in the HI.

That means the difference of 0,5V from the HI to the WW, if they were at the same distance, would give you 5-10 hits more, not something i'd refuse, heheh.

I use a 12V-1A power supply in my WW, bought at a electric local shop, did not measure it with a multimeter though to see the real values.

And, enjoy your meal.

 

[OhTheAgony]

Thanks

Like I tried to explain, that 0,5V difference is just for my particular units. It will depend on the resistance of the heating element of each individual unit you are comparing.

Did you see the tiny VV PSU Hazy posted in the PSU thread yesterday btw? If not you might want to check it out

K, stems *sigh*

I really have nothing scientific to say about them, so I'll just compare a few and point out some differences I guess.

I'll start with my fav, the CRZ stem. This one has the smallest ID of all my stems and it is the only one that slides in the inner heater tube instead of go around it, besides Alan's steel nipple that you can pair with the HI's GonG stem. This type of stem places the herbs closest to the heating element of too btw, which should also be taken in to account when looking at that low preferred voltage I use my HI at. If I use the HI with one of the other stems it the voltage goes up a 0,2V at least. I can't use this stem with my other logs btw, unfortunately the ID diameter of the inner SS heater tubes used in the other's their cores are to narrow for that stem. Alan has recently made a new version of his nipple btw, which I'm eager to test too.

I assume the stem you use the most is the GonG stem that comes with your WW, or haven't you gotten get a replacement for it yet? My problem with that stem is the fixed distance because the stem is to narrow to let the inner tube of the WW slide in. The stem and inner heater tube of the WW just pair up against each other, to explain it to people that aren't familiar with it. They are also finished quite rough so they do not make an ideal seal. The stem works ok as long as the bowl is still fresh, but once the material starts to shrink after a few hits the distance between herbs and heating element becomes to great to extract any longer ime, especially combined with the not so airtight seal.

I do like this stem combined with my UD though. The UD's inner-heating tube's outer diameter is just small enough to allow it to slide inside the stem, making it very comparable to the HI parred with it's GonG stem in use. I prefer this combo over that of the HI with it's GonG stem btw. For some reason my UD produces a less harsher vapor then the HI using this type of stem.

I have explained this with pictures before so lets use them again:

WW GonG stem against the inner heater tube:

and the heater tube sliding in (using my HI in this photo):

Then there's the original UD stem, which is nothing more then a piece of food grade heat resistant silicon tube with a screen logged in it. There are glass options as well nowadays but I don't have any of those so I can't compare them here, sorry. I do have one of the glass UD stems that you pair up with a silicon bowl so it becomes sort of a hybrid, and perfected it a bit so it is easier to use with a waterpipe, let me see if I can find a photo of that.

Here's the 14mm version:

And here is the 18mm version (same thing but with a 18 to 14mm reducer shoved over it):

These stems make the best seals out of all of them & will work with all the logs as a bonus, but come with an undeniable silicon taste for people with sensitive taste buds unfortunately. The HI GonG and similar stems rely mostly on the contact between the inner heater tube and the herbs itself which works well too, but still not quit as well as the silicon. The Hot Pod should come up with an interesting variation on this principle btw, I'm very curious to test that one too.

You could use a small piece of this silicon tubing to make your WW stem seal better too btw, much like the new UD stems do, although I didn't find it practical in daily use myself.

The few different stems (there are many more) I mentioned here display the main differences that effect how well they work the best imo, which are mainly the seal they make with the vape (in terms of airtightness) and where they position the herb in relation to the heating element. Of course this is somewhat variable with the stems that allow you to variate with screen-height, but I personally use that particular feature mostly to determine bowl size and other then that I just like to keep it as close to the heat source as possible.


I didn't really know how to start this post to be honest, so I'm not sure if it even answers the questions you might have. I hope it's a start though, feel free to help me to continue this discussion or incorporate other stems I haven't mentioned yet to it

 

[vorrange]

Just to set things straight.

Thanks OTA!

I saw the PS and ordered one as well, i have been flirting of the idea of getting one for a while now, and i thought that at that price i could not miss it. I even considered getting 2, like you did, but i managed to get a hold of myself. hehe.

About the WW stems, they are on the making, a gong and a mini wood one. I have been using my half gnome heating part, and it works well enough.

I completely understood the bit about the seal. I believe it is a very important feature in a stem, if you want a higher temperature, to have a perfect air seal.

I also think it would be nice to have different widths so you can have different bowl sizes and play with the distance to the heating element.

That part where you said about allowing the UD inner tube to slide inside the glass stem in the WW, in theory that would also be possible if the first centimeter in the stem was enlarged like in a Solo Stem, although a perfect seal would not be possible.

It seems that the influence on temperature comes from airflow restriction, resistance used and inner stem width, as well as the distance from the bowl to the resistance.

So, the hottest unit would need to have, if the resistance was the same in everyone, a bigger restriction on airflow accomplished by a slower pull and a smaller ID of the unit tube. If, on top of this, you want to further extract, just get the bowl closer to the bowl.

Now that i think of it, the gnome inner tube might fit the WW inner tube.. uhhh. (already tried it in the meantime and it does not work. )

 

[HoneyAir]

My experience with the Ohmite resistors is that its fresh resistance rating before being used is different than when it is heated up for at least a few days. I had used a fresh one, had some un-related trouble and disassembled it and noticing the difference, tried a new resistor. Found the same result with that resistor as well after disassembling one more time a week later.

So, the very high heat does impact its resistance... I am not sure if it has any more impact the longer it is used though as I haven't checked that.

 

[Gunky]

The variable voltage tattoo power supplies, such as Hildbrandt PW11, are very good with log vapes. One or two tenths of a volt can make quite a difference.

Hmnnn, have to try some of these newer log vapes. I still have Zap, CRZ, PD and WDZ.

 

[vorrange]

The variable voltage tattoo power supplies, such as Hildbrandt PW11, are very good with log vapes. One or two tenths of a volt can make quite a difference.

Hmnnn, have to try some of these newer log vapes. I still have Zap, CRZ, PD and WDZ.

Those are the Classics. Got my VVPS on the way, gonna use it a lot definitly. I was suspicious but now i am certain, my WW is hotter at night than during the day. Maybe because during the day there are more loads on the electrical system, i dunno, but somehow i have a hotter vaporizer by night. Which kind of makes sense if you think about it.

My experience with the Ohmite resistors is that its fresh resistance rating before being used is different than when it is heated up for at least a few days. I had used a fresh one, had some un-related trouble and disassembled it and noticing the difference, tried a new resistor. Found the same result with that resistor as well after disassembling one more time a week later.

So, the very high heat does impact its resistance... I am not sure if it has any more impact the longer it is used though as I haven't checked that.

What are you saying honey air? I didn't notice any decrease in temperature along the months i used my WW.

 

[OhTheAgony]

The variable voltage tattoo power supplies, such as Hildbrandt PW11, are very good with log vapes. One or two tenths of a volt can make quite a difference.

Hmnnn, have to try some of these newer log vapes. I still have Zap, CRZ, PD and WDZ.

lol, you actually have all the logs I've never got the chance to try. I wanted to buy a few of them but couldn't get them shipped to Europe (I was less then a week to late to get a bloody Pandora when Tom decided to stop that project!). I wish we could get together and try out each others vapes sometime!

Got my VVPS on the way, gonna use it a lot definitly. I was suspicious but now i am certain, my WW is hotter at night than during the day. Maybe because during the day there are more loads on the electrical system, i dunno, but somehow i have a hotter vaporizer by night. Which kind of makes sense if you think about it.

I've seen this mentioned in every log vape thread at some point, and believed this was true myself too for a while. But when you use a regulated power supply like I do it simply shouldn't be possible, since the output voltage doesn't really depend on the input voltage. I have a theory about this myself I would like you to consider; could it be it is hotter at night just because it has been on for a couple of hours already? I feel that that must be it to be honest. All my logs can produce vapor after being on 5 to ten minutes, but I feel that non of them performs optimal until they have been on at least an hour, perhaps even two or more depending on the wood and size.

 

[vorrange]

lol, you actually have all the logs I've never got the chance to try. I wanted to buy a few of them but couldn't get them shipped to Europe (I was less then a week to late to get a bloody Pandora when Tom decided to stop that project!). I wish we could get together and try out each others vapes sometime!





I've seen this mentioned in every log vape thread at some point, and believed this was true myself too for a while. But when you use a regulated power supply like I do it simply shouldn't be possible, since the output voltage doesn't really depend on the input voltage. I have a theory about this myself I would like you to consider; could it be it is hotter at night just because it has been on for a couple of hours already? I feel that that must be it to be honest. All my logs can produce vapor after being on 5 to ten minutes, but I feel that non of them performs optimal until they have been on at least an hour, perhaps even two or more depending on the wood and size.

I think we could exchange vapes that are safe for travel,

I have come to the same conclusion that, after you wait the ~15min in the WW it has not the same vapor quality as after 1 or 2 hours. But i have been leaving it on 24/7 and during the day i can grab it and the warmth feels good, at night it is almost too hot.

It can be the quality of the PS though, i bought it for 12€ at a local electric shop but it is from China.

 

[OhTheAgony]

Hmmm, it's been a long time since I left any of mine on at night. I'll leave one on tonight just to see how it performs tomorrow during the day and let you know my findings too

Do you use a regulated or an unregulated PSU?

 

[vorrange]

Hmmm, it's been a long time since I left any of mine on at night. I'll leave one on tonight just to see how it performs tomorrow during the day and let you know my findings too

Do you use a regulated or an unregulated PSU?

Nice, let me know what you find then.

I think it is regulated, at least it has the ability to input voltages 100-240V, 50-60Hz. Not sure if there is a specific symbol to tell if it is regulated.

 

[OhTheAgony]

I'll report back after my wake 'n bake tomorrow for sure.

I think that in general the small and lighter ones are regulated, and that the unregulated ones are big and heavy usually. I'm not entirely sure though, could you clarify that perhaps if you're reading this Hazy?

 

[hazy]

Yes the small light ones are probably switched mode power supplies and are better regulated than the heavier, bulkier transformer based power supplies. Vorrange's power supply sounds like the switched mode type. The only way to be certain about the voltage is by measuring it with a voltmeter at night and in the day.