Discussion in 'Plug-in Vaporizers' started by stonemonkey55, Nov 4, 2013.
Sure that isn't the OD?
Does anyone here own the new Evo Station? If so, does the Evo fit into that slot ok with the heat sheild on? Just wanted to know before buying. Also, is it true that they are not going to restock the classic hydratubes? I heard that it's going to be the precision peices from here on out??
On another note, I recently received a new Bubbleman heat sheild. I noticed that the temps are in different positions compared to my old heat sheild. I would assume that the Evo only goes to 500F because that is what is shown on the official website. Nevertheless, it kinda irks me that old Temp dial heat sheild (on the left) looks like it goes from 100F to 600F in increments of 50. I have no idea what the notches on the new heatsheild are.
Anyhow I know it's not a huge deal but how what would the temps be for each of the notches on my new bubble man heat sheild (right one). They aren't increments of 50 or 25F. Math wasn't my strong suit so if anyone can let me know, I would really appreciate it.
I just really wanted to know about this before buying that Evo Station.
My best guess for the change is that they want to show people that it's possible to vape bud around that temp on the dial. I personally load a pinch in my ELB and set my evo to max. Usually extracts in 1-2 hits max. Maybe putting 500 at 3 o clock makes people less likely to experiment with higher temps being scared of combustion since we know that happens usually over 450F.
Can you use sauce with the nails or only something more solid
The one on the right seems about right/accurate as for temp. Combustion on my evo and clouds can happen between 3/4 and 5 on the dial... 3 on the dial is about as high as you need to go for herb, i think. After that clouds can be hotter and harsher without any bigger visual on the cloud.
If you use the shield with the Evo Station, you need to push up the bottom of the heat shield slightly in order to be able to slide the Evo into the slot. Alternatively, you can slide your Evo into the slot and then put the heat shield on. In either case, the very bottom of the heat shield will be pushed up very slightly, but everything works fine. The cutout for the on-off switch will be slightly off a perfect alignment, but the switch is visible and operational.
As for the temperatures, the markings are only approximate; it looks like it is about 30 degrees Farenheit increments. I would suggest finding a range of positions that you like using for your various materials and don’t be too concerned with exact temps.
I generally do flowers at a range of 10AM-2PM on the dial, and concentrate from 10AM-3:30PM depending on where I want to get, how slowly, and the material at hand.
I would treat those temp markings as approximations. The EVO is an analog device, the temp at a given setting will vary a bit from one unit to the next.
That said, fwiw . . . there was a helluva lot of discussion about temps in the original Cloud thread (and in other vape threads too, like for the Arizer Q). What really matters most is the airflow temp where it meets the herb. I made a couple posts here years ago with temp measurements I took at the inside and below the joint, but even there the reading cannot account for the effect of the airflow out of the heat chamber nor that of the ELB - and both of those factors will change the true vaporizing temp. Not to speak of how dry the material is, force of one's draw, packing, load, etc.. For a while there was a real obsession about digital vapes and the ability to set the vape according to the boiling points of the various cannabinoids (there is a thread here that lists those, btw). When we learned more about where sensors are placed and how much difference there was between the device display and the actual temp at the herb, I think many of us came to view this all as a bit of a fool's errand and that we were over-complicating things. And so with the analog Cloud, and later the EVO, I think the focus became the quality of the experience as a result of, yes the temp setting, but also all the other contributing factors, too. So IMHO take those temp ticks as just approximate reference points. Many of us use different set points at various times, even within the same session. Customize your technique to what gives you an optimum experience based on your preferences.
I couldn’t agree more!!!
Sometimes we over-complicate things unnecessarily and this can detract from one’s overall enjoyment.
The important thing, in my view, is for each user to find what works best for them and focus on enjoying.
10am on the dial is blissful
Yes it is!
I like to use my dry mouthpiece straight up or else coupled with the Lynx at these lower temps.
Now that I have a Calyx, however, I'm finding that I prefer using the Calyx even more than the Lynx.
Another thing that I like about the Calyx is that it delivers smooth hits at higher temps. For me, it does so better than the Lynx coupled with a dry mouthpiece.
Yeah, I have to agree with you on this as the 3 o'clock postion is roughy 440 degrees. With my current Evo, anything above 3:30 or so combusted. I've learned my lesson believe me!
Thank you! Just the info I needed to know!
Having to roll up the bottom of the heatsheild isn't a big deal to me, and coming from you it sounds as if it's a very minor problem. I'm still hoping it it doesn't fit too snug, but then again when I use my Evo, I usually use it in my hand so the evo station is really for storage and organization. Also, thank you for figuring out those increments for me! You are indeed correct they are 30 increments on the new sheilds.
I'll just ordered one, thanks again for the insight!
What Dabber are you all using ? Trying to figure out the best tool and way to use concentrates that aren’t stable. Such as sauce
Me too. I have only kept the Evo in the Station slot while using it on a couple of occasions. I prefer to being able to lift/move the Evo freely. The situation where I prefer to keep the Evo in the Station's slot is in a group setting with newbies, where I tent to use the Evo with the Lynx and whip to help avoid the sad situation of expensive glass breakage --- that's not a good addition to a social session!
I have two of them. One is the pick tool VapeXhale sells; the other tool is similar to this one or this type that was originally intended for cuticle care. The scoopish side is good for oil and more solid items too.
This is interesting. I've had the EVO since the Indiegogo campaign, still works but little temperamental (autoshutoff doesn't always work, temp has become inconsistent). Also still have my original and fully functioning OG ticker. But decided it's time to retire the old EVO and ordered a new one.
Feels like a different temp range. My old EVO, even before the temp inconsistencies, ran hotter. Even with a heat shield could burn your hand, and drier flowers could blacken. No such issue so far with the EVO I just got. Hits smoother than my old EVO - have not done a side-by-side test with the OG ticker yet. But clouds seem as thick.
Downside, back when I first got mine there were plans for some fancier boxes, even had one at one point from sending in my unit for a bamboo replacement. What happened to those?
Cuz I got the kit with the EVO and Calyx, and no Vapexhale branded box at all. The EVO, Calyx, and various bits just well packaged in bubble wrap and a plain cardboard box. Came directly from Vapexhale, so not due to a vendor doing something weird.
Your unit sounds like mine did at that time. At maybe about 1 year I sent it in to replace a faulty switch and VXL swapped out all the guts, including the bamboo. It's performed perfectly ever since.
I presume you weren't in the "Fanatic" group? Those units all have a lifetime warranty.
Thanks for reminding me. My fanatic unit could use a checkup.
Yeah. They already replaced the bamboo and innards at least once on the old EVO. They offered to do it again, but my brother borrowed my OG ticker, and I can't live without a working cloud, canna is my only post-surgical pain med and though I like my other vapes, they ain't Clouds.
Now that I got another one (whose bamboo temp, according to my iR thermometer, is running a solid 35-50 degrees F cooler at any given setting than my old one) I think I'm gonna send the old one in for service. Then I'll have two functioning EVOs.
I took a similar tack to what you did, except I got my second standard unit from the campaign. Still having my OG doing great, and my Vectra too after the upgrade, I decided to sell my other EVO to a friend who had been begging me to but his wife wouldn't let him spring for the whole cost of a brand new unit. I gave him a great deal. I'll probably live to regret having let it go.
IIRC one of the major changes VXL made with that upgrade we both got was with the firmware. Your unit was running hot, mine was running cool. I was having to set it at ~2. I also did the IR readings and found about the same variation as you did. From what I've read here since, looks like they stabilized the EVO considerably since those first units we got. That lifetime warranty sure has paid off, and I figure it will again.
Hello everyone. I recently purchased an Evo during the sale in February. I have used the Herbalizer, mostly with bags, but didn't like the whip/tube options. I used the Evo and thought it was harsh and went back to the Herbie.
I'm trying to use the Evo more. I thought it would pull like a bong with a tight seal where the glass would fill with vape until the heater was removed (like pulling the bowl). My Swiss hydrotube that came with it whistles while I'm pulling, obviously leaking air which makes it super harsh, like a water filtered pipe rather than a carb/bong.
I'm sorry I am vaped and having trouble explaining... But my questions are: is the joint between your Evo heater and hydrotube tight? Is it normal that mine is leaking air and whistling? Should I get a different tube? Experts, please help me understand and/or advise. Thanks in advance and for reading this rambling... .
Whistle is a good thing?
I like the power of the EVO !
The whistling is normal and not from an air leak. It whistles due to the turbulence created by the glass bamboo in the EVO. If you plug the bottom of the EVO and try pulling with the hydra tube on it should be air tight.
@R2-D2 - in addition to @Likes2vape response, I would like to add that my experience with the hydratubes is that they are very hard hitting but due to their configuration there is a lot of air coming through the load which seems to add to harshness in comparison to the Calyx.
Might want to take a look at the Calyx....is much less expensive than a full HT and with its small mouthpiece it makes the EVO into a bit more of a sipper than a ripper (well, relatively speaking, at least).
I do mostly still use my Turbine HT but I really do enjoy the Calyx and both I and some others I know have all found it to be very smooth.
I have a bunch of vapes but end up using my EVO the most as I medicate primarily at night so I and my back can lay down and sleep.
Thanks so much for your responses, I will try to block the bottom and see if it's tight. @Likes2vape thanks for a simple way to test. @Baron23 after I check it, I will look into the Calyx, I'm pretty sure I recently got a sale email for that piece.
I covered the bottom and it did block the airflow. The joint if right. It seems I need to "practice" some more. Get through some user error. Thanks @ataxian I will learn to love the whistle power! Thanks to the best online community, again always generous responses to this noob (newb?).
I am about 99% sure I'm going to pull the trigger on a package for the 4/20 sale. I'm looking for an electronic desktop heavy hitter for mostly flower and the occasional dab.
Not sure what glass I want to pair with. I'm thinking Precision Turbine but looking at the Calyx. The CS from VXH says they should have more Calyces in a week or two.
Aside from the less expensive price point, what is the advantage to a Calyx over the Turbine? Should I wait for them to be re-stocked?
It all work's well!
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