VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Relays have contacts in them that do the switching, and with contacts, there is mechanical ware and voltage bounce. Old technology replaced by solid state mosFET switching.
Yes ,you're right on these remarks .
Although I'm not worried of the mechanical contact wear that much ,
since most modern relays -even the cheapest kind -have a service life of more than 100,000 cycles of operation.
But from the other hand ,the mechanical contact bouncing is something
that may cause IH circuit to malfunction.
I 've missed that somehow ....
:doh:
But for a small experiment ,that set up most probably will do .
If it shows any indication of favourable operation ,
then a better solid state switching time delay is by far a better option.

Thank you @Pipes .
Very accurate and helpful remarks !
Nice job ,as always !
:tup:
 
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Relays have contacts in them that do the switching, and with contacts, there is mechanical ware and voltage bounce. Old technology replaced by solid state mosFET switching.

Thanks. The reason I asked is because I believe it is the relay that failed on my Chinese dental induction heater. I have ordered replacement relays but if the replacement relay fails again, I'll see is I can replace it with a FET or other switch.

Thanks again for all your input.
 

DataRocks

Well-Known Member
First try at automatic temperature controlled IH:

Sample video:

https://streamable.com/la0dp

hSI9M6C.gif


Case for once its ready:

mMmfN0l.jpg
 
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stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Automatic temperature control is a nice idea !

Actually some years ago I was in the need of an accurate enough thermometer for my bench ,
to be used on a LED grow light project of mine .

Used an Arduino UNO ,a reflow oven shield ,a B/W Nokia 5110 LCD screen with a custom -made MOSFET signal converter at it's plug ,couple of pots ,micro switches and made a digital
( K-type thermocouple ) thermometer .It has all the features needed for an
Automatic Temperature Control Induction Heating ( ATCIH ) device !





A real- time data LCD screen with the controls besides it .
A switch that :at position A kills the signal output ( OFF ) ,
at position B the signal output is ON
and at the momentary position C it resets the Arduino .
A button that when pressed the Junction temperature is shown for 5 secs
and two pots,one setting the Temp limit from 0 to 300 °C and the
other it trims ( micro-adjusts ) the latter for total 10 °C ( 'set value' +/- 5 °C )


tcK °C : measured temperature at the tip of the K-type thermocouple
Sampling_Hz : set sensor sampling rate ( 1,2 ,5 or 10 Hz )
<OUTPUT N_xx > : preset TTL output state ( NO / NC )
State : current TTL output state ( ON / OFF )
Limit °C : preset temperature limit ( 0 - 300 °C )



At the rear panel there can be found :
-a 12 VDC input
- a usb socket as a serial data output
- the K-type thermocouple input
and
- a TTL signal output ( RCA socket with a LED indicating HIGH +5 VDC state )
for operating a any device with a mechanical relay or a SSR one or
even an induction heating module !
:rockon:



Underneath there are 4x micro swithes for selecting the sampling rate ( 1- 2 - 5 - 10 Hz )
and if the signal output will be Normally Open or Normally Closed before the measured temperature
reaches the set limit .When measured temp reaches the set limit or rises above it ,
the output will change to opposite state than the preset.


Thing is that all those electronics have a certain volume and need
the appropriate space when /if cased .
But for home -use desktop IH device that ain't much of an issue ,right ?
:brow:

Cheers.
 
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stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Alternative wiring of the ON/OFF switch for battery powered IH models ,
with a simple safety feature.
Wired this way ,when the IH is ON a plugged in charger will have no effect .
The IH device can only be charged when it is OFF .

It needs a Single pole / Double Throw switch ( SPDT ) with a rating of more than 10 A / 12 VDC.
Something like this ,for example :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC15A-250V...witch+20+A&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313


Cheers.

@nachooo
I found some MOSFETS that only needed about 6V to start oscillating, and most wouldn't even start at 5. I fried a fair amount of MOSFETs during testing and often it seemed random but there are many reasons a MOSFET can die. I'm sure there are MOSFETS that can work reliably at this voltage range. I'm still experimenting and hope to find some.
How about the IRF540N ?
A N-channel HexFet with a Vgs of 2 to 4 Volts .

130 W dissipation (with appr. cooling ) , 100V / 33 A .

https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irf540n.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a4015355e396cb199f

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
An alternative design for a portable IH device .



MR1 (Voltmeter instead of " IH active " indication LED ) :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-DC-4-5-30V-LED-Digital-Meter-Display-Voltage-Voltmeter-Counter-Panel-Motor/291847219424?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=2&asc=53210&meid=18351e0f33de4d1992e3b4fe09655cb5&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=12&sd=282579189492&itm=291847219424&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

S1 ( DPST toggle switch ) :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-x-4-...ST+switch+&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313


S2 (push button ) : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-4-P...sh+button+&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

Cheers.
 
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phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
So here's a thing for all you JH owners @Padriano Is running the Apple Dome IH off his S&B Mighty charger.

This has me confused a little as the label has it rated at 3a but it works and works well.

It's physically much smaller and neater than the 8a units.

Any kind of explanation for this would be appreciated.

Padriano will hopefully get some video up later today.

Will it burn out the S&B charger eventually?
 

Support@lamart

Company Representative (Lamart Tubo)
Company Rep
So here's a thing for all you JH owners @Padriano Is running the Apple Dome IH off his S&B Mighty charger.

This has me confused a little as the label has it rated at 3a but it works and works well.

It's physically much smaller and neater than the 8a units.

Any kind of explanation for this would be appreciated.

Padriano will hopefully get some video up later today.

Will it burn out the S&B charger eventually?
Yep.. Regular 3a Mighty adapter and it heats up quicker than the psm :huh: ( i swapped tips and caps over and duplicated the test to double check)


No signs of trouble at all.. Seems a bit too good to be true.. :\

 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
@stardustsailor it's basically a wooden Jarhead.
The S&B adapter is rated at 12v 3a so it's only running at 36w.
I'm guessing the rating is not correct and/or very conservative. Keep in mind that our application is not a continuous drain and only 10-15 second bursts at most. If a protection circuit is not set at it's rating, then some over drawing of current is possible. However, if let on longer term, there would likely be some overheating problems inside the supply. I'd monitor the supply temperature until you get some faith. :science:
Is there an actual model number on the S&B supply or is it actually made by S&B?
 

Support@lamart

Company Representative (Lamart Tubo)
Company Rep
I'm guessing the rating is not correct and/or very conservative. Keep in mind that our application is not a continuous drain and only 10-15 second bursts at most. If a protection circuit is not set at it's rating, then some over drawing of current is possible. However, if let on longer term, there would likely be some overheating problems inside the supply. I'd monitor the supply temperature until you get some faith. :science:
Is there an actual model number on the S&B supply or is it actually made by S&B?

Thanks dude.. I'll keep an eye on the temps.. Nuttin so far.

sd0k7s.jpg


Ive got 2 identical official s&b chargers (1 was unused before) and they both react the same too :sherlock:
 
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Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Cool, thanks. It's a medical grade supply, which might have something to do with it. I found this article which explains a little bit about peak load applications and picking the right supply. Basically, some supplies are set to go into protection based more on heat build up rather then a current limit cut off. I think this might be the case here. This supply might be a good match here. :science:
 

Grifo

Well-Known Member
Hello!

I'm a quiet long-term reader here in the Vapcap thread since a while and a big fan of the vapcap was also my first vaporizer (the M) than i have buyt in sebtember last year 3 months later I upgraded to the omny xl.

My skeletor induction heater arrived today and I'm very happy with my new tool and big thanks to @Pipes for his work, so i spent today time to make my enclosure fit for the skelly and here are the results.

I still have a question how have you attached battery level indicator? I've tried with super glue that does not really hold on the metal any other ideas?

Thanks a lot!

EDIT: After the second try the battery level indicator keeps on his place :)
what box is that?
 
Grifo,

Prophecy

Well-Known Member
what box is that?

This is a tea box that i have found on amazon i use it for a enclosure for my skeletor induction heater.

After 9 days of use (on other days i was on a holiday trip) :) i love it more and more :rockon: since the arrive day i never used a torch lighter and it is so comfortable makes the whole process to an one handed process perfekt while on working on the PC or reading the news papers on sunny sundays and enjoy a coffee. :cool:

I have take some fine tuning/decoration on my skelly box, have take the o-ring that sits on the bottom of the dynavap xl tubes i give them on the on/off switch for more thickness so it hold it firmlier, the metal alone was to thin.

Added also a nice picture on the sight window :) and a self made cork seal for the glas tube from the heating element to holt it in place and inside i use also cork to secure the skeletor.


 
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Prophecy,
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Grifo

Well-Known Member
This is a tea box that i have found on amazon i use it for a enclosure for my skeletor induction heater.

After 9 days of use (on other days i was on a holiday trip) :) i love it more and more :rockon: since the arrive day i never used a torch lighter and it is so comfortable makes the whole process to an one handed process perfekt while on working on the PC or reading the news papers on sunny sundays and enjoy a coffee. :cool:

I have take some fine tuning/decoration on my skelly box, have take the o-ring that sits on the bottom of the dynavap xl tubes i give them on the on/off switch for more thickness so it hold it firmlier, the metal alone was to thin.

Added also a nice picture on the sight window :) and a self made cork seal for the glas tube from the heating element to holt it in place and inside i use also cork to secure the skeletor.

do you have a link?
 
Grifo,

Edgedamage

Well-Known Member
Working on another hiding in plain sight build. I used a old pipe tobacco can, the thicker metal made drilling non-bluckling holes easy.
I have a magnet under the top which holds the cap nice and snug.

This is my first build with a pressure activated switch.

For now I am stealing power from my picture box build, I am waiting for batteries and a BMS and it will be done.
 

Ramahs

Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
I think I may be receiving my bare-bones parts tomorrow. Now I just need to find the right "box" or some kind of shell to build it into!

Anyone have any suggestions for places to shop for interesting novelty boxes/containers?
 
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Ramahs,

jofu

Well-Known Member
Should be getting my BB parts this week as well. Looking forward to the fun of finding the right vessel fitting for such a highly anticipated item. Can't wait.
 
jofu,
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Ramahs

Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
Should be getting my BB parts this week as well. Looking forward to the fun of finding the right vessel fitting for such a highly anticipated item. Can't wait.

Hells yeah! Happy searching!
 
Ramahs,

Ernie1086

Member
I’ll prolly get my kit soon also. Could anyone suggest a 3s lipo battery from amazon that would work good with the bare bones kit
 
Ernie1086,
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