Discussion in 'DIY' started by Pipes, Nov 23, 2016.
@Kermitt the PSU I have is 12v 5a.
The Skelly charger is 12.6v 1a.
5 amps would fry the batteries.
@Pipes you where right to question my heater running on a 2amp power supply. Turns out that out of all the supplies I have, I grabbed a 4amp one. And I am running it at the limit if I go one coil wrap deeper and it cuts out every time. I am finding with induction heating I am getting nice even extraction. Going one second after the click each hit.
@Edgedamage sounds like you're right on the edge of damage. That edge of cutting out is a potential death trap for those transistors. There's a bunch of criteria they need to have and it's reliable as hell. Anything out of that range is often catastrophic. I'd try avoid edging too close if possible, and try find yourself a higher capacity PSU in the meanwhile.
BTW, heating a titanium tip uses 10~20% less current than a SS tip. If you have both, stick to the Ti till you upgrade the PSU.
The 4amp was used during the testing phase, its running off three 20 amp continuous discharge 18650s. For home use its running off a computer PSU 24 watts on the 12 rail.
out of curiousity, where is the list, havent been active in a while since my computer broke and is literally taking forever for this guy to get back to me
..pm to @Pipes only
I believe I read about this some pages back: and
I've been using this one https://www.powerstream.com/AC-A0407.htm for a few days
AC or DC works as advertised for our application. Clicks come a bit quicker
too bad the usb port is only 1amp
Nice to have
edit: This is for the "Jarside"Jarhead Power Supply
2nd edit: take a look at their 12v chargers also
I'm not the brightest guy, but on the portside FAQ, it says I need to only take out 4 screws. The instructions for the screws are a little vague. If I have my portside facing me with led lights, there are 4 screws on the left and 4 on the right. Which screws do I need to unscrew on the left and which ones on the right? It is embarrassing but would appreciate the help.
Look at the picture in the FAQ, you should be able to tell by it's orientation. The ends can stay attached by two screws but can always remove them as well.
Merry Christmas everyone!
Today I charged my Mighty accidently with the Portside charger. Both devices seem to have survived, but could you guys please educate me a bit about what consequences that could have meant?
I think the Portside charger has: 12,6V and 1A.
The Mighty charger runs 12V and 3A.
That leads me to these questions:
1. What device could have taken damage? From my short googling it seems I could have killed the Portside charger, while the Mighty should have been save.
2. Can i use the Mighty charger for charging my PIH? Would love that possibility, especially when travelling. My portside charger is quite loud anyway...
Just an idea, the first thing I do when a new device with a charger comes home is make a label for the charger. I actually have a 24 hour rule. That doesn't keep me from losing them, but when I find them I know what they are for...
No, not a good idea. Using a 3 amp, 12 volt supply on the IH will:
1/never fully charge the cells to full, and will always be actively topping up.
2/charge rate will be two high when battery is low. Quick charging is recommended usually around 1 - 1.2 amp. type thing. Will be very hard on the cells and they may not even take it for long as will get quite hot.
3/Do you smell something burning?...
Now, since I do not know the Mighty's circuits, hard to say the other way around. However,:
1/charge rate will be slower.
2/could be over charging but bet there is some intelligents in the Mighty to prevent this.
3/hard on charger as could be running full out the whole time.
4/man, I'm sure I smell something burning.....
As @cybrguy states, label them for what they are for. Best stick with recommended units.
Made a simple prototype with a cheap box from ebay. Holy shit it heats so fast, thanks a lot pipes for this great idea and the tips here in the thread
For the next one I'll get a nicer box and build in a tactile switch.
Changed the O-ring size? I ordered #10 last week. Just got my order in the mail, and was making sure the parts were right. Saw it was changed to #109. Kinda threw me for a loop. Thought I was gonna have to pay $6 to ship something that cost $1 again.
Guess they will still work I'm sure.
So sorry. That was my mistake in the parts list. Just got some myself and figured out I'd put the wrong size in the doc.
So I do need #109 instead of #10?
I can't wait to get a Pipes PM telling me to pay him for a Skelator. @SloJimFizz cautioned me about a newly discovered affliction called Skelator Enclosure Obsessive (SEO) behaviour, whereupon the patient is constantly scanning and evaluating every object's suitability as a possible home for her/his Skelly.
Why can't I realise that these vaping afflictions are voluntarily contracted by prolonged exposure to FC?!
Well last night my little black box worked great in the -17 weather. Still a 5sec click from a cold start, but the cool down click was way faster than normal. Glad I was not having to hold a lighter and having to wait for the click while shivering to death.
I love this affliction! After trying out several possibilities, I finally settled on a vintage quart paint can. Neat. I like it. However, still I take measure of any potential container that I come upon. I think my spatial intelligence is being honed.
I can't post pics right now so forgive me when I say that I love seeing the depth of creativity and imagination in all the postings with pics of their PIHs. It's truly inspiring.
Off topic, re: spatial intelligence.
I knew a guy who had a 60s model station wagon. A real boat. Huge back end. He would visually size up a load of crap that he was moving somewhere. Then he would look over at that station wagon. Then back over to the crap heap. He would spend several minutes just staring back and forth from the wagon to the heap. Then he would start packing it all in. He always got it all in and it was astonishing to watch. He never took measurements with a tape measure or anything. It was like a magic show where an elephant gets into a car. This guy was the master of spatial intelligence.
Finally got my batteries and was able to use my skeletor after having it for ages. It works awesome. I find it takes a while to get some vapor, but the heat up is so quick it's still faster than the lighter. I also need to clean my dynavap out so that's effecting it a bit too. Btw does the charger blink orange and green when plugged in? Is the skeletor supposed to be switched off when charging?
As for an enclosure, I found pretty much a perfectly fitting box at this art supply store called deserres in Quebec. You get two of these wooden pencil holders for 5 bucks that you can drop your skeletor into, or even use it as a cover. Exactly perfect fit just a few mm taller than the skeletor. Using one of those and some plywood to create my stand/box.
Anyone hear when the Minis are going out? Doc
Can't help you on then when @Dynalowrider but I can say you and everyone else on the Mini list's will not be disappointed.
It makes me smile every time I have to recharge the battery, just over an hour.
Still getting a consistent amount of heat cycles, 15 being an average on the M tip.
Does the Mini fit into a cigarettebox sleeve?
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