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Azn2101

Well-Known Member
@Azn2101 The Sole reason I quote that date, is due to that being when I started tracking the drops in earnest preparing to purchase my Evic. I truly have no idea when his run of duals happened.

I got my Milaana 2 just as RBT was changing gears, but I recall when the Zion was released.
I was very curious about it- but having to designate pairing batteries is a turn off for me- (so the Tubo Evic Dual and 7th Floor Sidekick I will also likely have to pass on) My Milaana is on its way this week. I recall RBTs beginnings- but for both some personal reasons, along with my finding site navigation problematic, held off. -Also, at the time, I was still very biased in favor of my butane experience- Which I still love, but due to other health problems in my household, my butane vapes are shelved until I can find a silent torch. I truly hear you about the fear of breakage- One of the reasons I tried for the longest time to stick to my Vapman + Lotus...was practically in tears when my FW2 bricked!

My current organizational obsession is trying to find ways to code storage for parts (stems and screens especially) that will help me remember what goes with what model.

For sure, it really doesnt matter that much cause they're still not being made anyways but I appreciate that. Well regarding pairing batteries I have no issues just writing with a thin sharpie to what unit it is used for but I completely feel you about having an extra thing that could potentially mess up the precious unit.
 
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Vapeur Rogue

Est. 2013- Never Lookin' Back
For sure, it really doesnt matter that much cause they're still not being made anyways but I appreciate that. Well regarding pairing batteries I have no issues just writing with a thin sharpie to what unit it is used for but I completely feel you about having an extra thing that could potentially mess up the precious unit. Ya I have nothing against RBT but I think Mike with the Lil' Bud has definitely put a huge dent into their margins and I would think they would start lowering their lrices but i'm no business major.

Well @funkyjunky, @Mistvape, @firewood Also have similar style offerings (in function)- already out, and/or coming out soon- and like @Bravesst /Mike all offer better customer service in my experience.
Now that I am more experienced, and have both corrected some misunderstandings in my vocabulary, and also found tech that works well/faster/heats fast enough/has different timing offerings to suit both my crisis needs and general style- Sure- if given the chance, I might add the Zion and Dual-
but when fog is a thing anyway, and I have days I find myself sticking the milk in the cupboard, and coffee pot in freezer (And this is not including flares or migraines or other symptoms)- yeah- the less I have to think about regarding maintaining my med kit, the better!

It is ironic too- the vape that I am curious about that takes two batteries, but is of *least* interest, is the one still currently in production.
 
Vapeur Rogue,

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
@funkyjunky has not made a batch, at least not since Aug/Sept '18?
From what little I understand, since they surfaced during my hiatus from collecting vapes, (as have many of the vapes I have been urgently catching up on- both educating myself in general, and pouncing on to enjoy personally.) the Tubo Evic Dual was a short/small run, possibly experimental (and my guess - Disclaimer: totally personal opinion here! Is that the Dual might have been in response to the RBT Zion) Version of the Evic. There was a Tubo Evic Dual up in the classifieds within the last few weeks.
You are wrong about the TUBO dual being a response to the Zion,lol.. It is a response to the pop up of the EVIC DUAL... There werent more Evic Dual runs because there isnt enough interest in it.. Some of the users actually said they prefer the Single Evic after trying both,swapping batteries is not really that much of price to pay compared to the more bulky size .. Imo if one would want a boost on the performance/significant increase of battery life,he would get a TUBOx and a 3-4 battery mod :))..,but that is just my point of view..
While RBT,Lil bud guy ,Alan all share the same heater tech,TUBO has it is own unique tech and also a software which for guys that can appeciate this kind of performance/functions,it puts it above all others. I've heard a lot of shit goes on behind the scences there ,so please dont throw the TUBO in there too...
Comparing the Zion to the TUBO is like comparing a TC mod to a VW one.. both work but geeks agree TC is for the better of it ;).
Not wanting to bash but ,On a side note i have a PAM heater which i hear is similar to the Zion ? (correct me if i am wrong)..
Probably there is something not right with mine,but air tastes like hair drier mixed with heated stone smell .. Also there was bad smell for at least 5 battery charge worth spent in burn-offs.., i cannot imagine one had to do this shit with his own lungs,it is good that the vaccuuum cleaner bit the bullet with those fumes.. Probably it is reflected in the retail price of the heater which is 1/5 of the Zion,but still,unacceptable ,it would be justified even for an increased price to do a burnoff cycle to each unit.. Both my TUBO and TUBOx had pristine taste and didnt require any burnoffs ..
 
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Vapeur Rogue

Est. 2013- Never Lookin' Back
@Abysmal Vapor
Thank you for the in-depth reply. Yes, I am completely intimidated by the tech involved in the Tubo, and honestly the Lil'Bud Elite, and HR Fierce, but gotta learn sometime! I love that @funkyjunky shares the software, but that too had me so intimidated I almost passed longer on ordering one.

I do not know enough about the Zion to correct you or others on anything.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Ya I have nothing against RBT but I think Mike with the Lil' Bud has definitely put a huge dent into their margins and I would think they would start lowering their lrices but i'm no business major.

This really makes me boil inside, especially since I'm not allowed (nor anyone) to discuss that topic publicly. But come on man, how dare you say that in such a laid back way?!

Comparing the Zion to the TUBO is like comparing a TC mod to a VW one.. both work but geeks agree TC is for the better of it ;).

Excepted the Zion temperature feels more stable than all my other TC vapes. Temperature regulation really is unnecessary in this unit. And folks know how hard of a TC advocate I can be in all 510 vape threads! So for me to say that, there really must be something in this vape, a pretty well balanced equilibrium I'd say.

Also many members in the aforementioned threads reverted back to VW and prefer it over TC. There are valid reasons and I agree with some of them.

As for your PAM heater, @Summer recently re-posted the burn-in procedure in the Splinter thread. Apparently some units went through without getting that treatment. Ryan can be quite distracted sometimes... it's not the first time he forgets some important things...

PS: not including the Tubo in the 510 vapes I'm evoking as that bloody port is thankfully gone in this device, a wise decision IMHO, and the software is pretty much fine-tuned for the fixed hardware (a Mac vs PC comparison comes to mind here but I digress...)
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Excepted the Zion temperature feels more stable than all my other TC vapes. Temperature regulation really is unnecessary in this unit. And folks know how hard of a TC advocate I can be in all 510 vape threads! So for me to say that, there really must be something in this vape, a pretty well balanced equilibrium I'd say.
/QUOTE]
:p You should validate this feeling with a temp sensor .Having enough heatmass to prevent large heatdrop is nothing like the algorithms balancing stuff involved in the Tubo software. I have validated that TUBO software delivers temps pretty close to reality with a temp probe, i am no expert in the field of PID/TC/Math stuff but i have confirmed it with simple a simple pt 100 :).
 

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
@Vapeur Rogue IIRC the duals were never on the website.

I received mine the last week of December 2017.

While RBT,Lil bud guy ,Alan all share the same heater tech

You are totally mistaken. The RBT heater looks completely different than those by @Alan or @Bravesst.

I have seen the inside of a Splinter when the glass detached from inside the Splinter. I have also seen the inside of an iHeat and, of course, the Tubo and the Tubo dual.
 
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Azn2101

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, ive run into a snag, not so much a problem: My TUBO is now registering fully cherged batteries (VTC5A's & VTC5D'S; 4.2v) at 73 then immediately justs to 93. It only showed battery at 100% a few times, showing 99% normally. I thought it might be that I recieved a new charger from a vape from a different country and maybe different charging type (or something to do with the difference in power outlets) but I keep a battery on a key chain and realized that that battery hadn't been charged by the new charger and it did the same thing, a quick 73 then to 93.

Not to be blunt but yes I have changed it to VTC5 and off 30q lol, any ideas on how to change this? I cycled thru all the battery options back to VTC5 and it still registered at 93.
 
Azn2101,

almost there

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, ive run into a snag, not so much a problem: My TUBO is now registering fully cherged batteries (VTC5A's & VTC5D'S; 4.2v) at 73 then immediately justs to 93. It only showed battery at 100% a few times, showing 99% normally. I thought it might be that I recieved a new charger from a vape from a different country and maybe different charging type (or something to do with the difference in power outlets) but I keep a battery on a key chain and realized that that battery hadn't been charged by the new charger and it did the same thing, a quick 73 then to 93.

Not to be blunt but yes I have changed it to VTC5 and off 30q lol, any ideas on how to change this? I cycled thru all the battery options back to VTC5 and it still registered at 93.
I’m pretty sure I’ve never had 100% in any of my mods and definitely not in the tubo display. Does it really bother u that much:lol:
 

Azn2101

Well-Known Member
Meh, I guess if it has no real effect on battery life than no but I usually switch out my batteries at 40-60%, another OCD thing and if im gauging off a wrong number than 63% might be 70 and so on and so forth

It seems to have fixed itself. It went down to 92% and I switched a fresh off the charger batt in and it went back to 99%.
Sweet =D
 
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Gray Area

Well-Known Member
The only time I ever get the 100% battery indicator on my Tubo is when I have it plugged into the wall with a pa.
Fully charged batteries straight from my nitecore charger show 97%-99% max.
 

rozroz

Well-Known Member
How old are your cells? The older they get the higher their internal resistance, which in turns makes the voltage sag more and more under load. The weak battery message appears when the sag is too important.

Technically speaking, the increase in IR is like having the CDR rating of your cell going down. So a brand new 20A cell will age and become eventually 18A, then 15A etc... There's a similar drop in capacity over time too. These cells are only rated for 300-500 cycles depending on what criteria the manufacturer selects for his specs. At one charge per day an average cell will not last much more than a year before getting seriously worn.

Note that they still work past the 300 cycles mark, but capacity is low and they sag a lot. Better to refurbish them for lower power applications at that point, like small LED flash-lights etc. (provided they have protection circuits of course, as our flat top cells have none)

Thanks. I don’t think they are that old. I have 3 cells so i charge around once a week.. i have them around a year.. so i thought it might be a software glitch.
 
rozroz,

Azn2101

Well-Known Member
The only time I ever get the 100% battery indicator on my Tubo is when I have it plugged into the wall with a pa.
Fully charged batteries straight from my nitecore charger show 97%-99% max.

How powerful of a PA do you need for the TUBO if you dont mind me asking cause like 4 people are selling MFLB's with PA's one is a 3.0 I think?
I think it's just a visual error or something like what @almost there I think was maybe implying cause putting it taking it out & back in at 93 would remain at 93. At 92 a new batt went back to 99.
 
Azn2101,

Gray Area

Well-Known Member
How powerful of a PA do you need for the TUBO if you dont mind me asking cause like 4 people are selling MFLB's with PA's one is a 3.0

Mines a @funkyjunky built pa. it's based around an rsp-200-4 power supply for a pc.
It's 160w/4v/40A and quite big and heavy, but works a treat. Like having a freshly charged battery (or better) on every button press.

The dual you've all been talking about was mine which I've sold recently to another member. As @Abysmal Vapor said earlier, I actually prefer the size of the single battery ver better (it's easy to swap out batteries) and my pa fits the OG and not the dual (although I did have the option :doh: ). I used my dual less than half a dozen times in almost the year I had it.
Silly it sitting unused...
 

Azn2101

Well-Known Member
Mines a @funkyjunky built pa. it's based around an rsp-200-4 power supply for a pc.
It's 160w/4v/40A and quite big and heavy, but works a treat. Like having a freshly charged battery (or better) on every button press.

The dual you've all been talking about was mine which I've sold recently to another member. As @Abysmal Vapor said earlier, I actually prefer the size of the single battery ver better (it's easy to swap out batteries) and my pa fits the OG and not the dual (although I did have the option :doh: ). I used my dual less than half a dozen times in almost the year I had it.
Silly it sitting unused...


Crap I think MFLB stops at 3.1v

Well thank you for clearing that up sir.

A PA would definitely help me the heck out so I will def have to look into one.
 
Azn2101,

Leolo

New Member
Hi fellow vapers!

I bought my Tubo more than a year ago and very soon ran into some problems. My temp setting was changed to watts and i couldn't get the temp back.. I also had problems with updating the firmware..

Funk Junky said that I could use the 90 day warranty and send it back, so that he could replace the Evic for me. This never happened though, since I was in moving, and the Tubo ended up in the cellar.

I've found it since, and actually, after following some advice i found on FF, and some Trial and error - was able to update the firmware.

Problem is, even after trying to adjust the setting according to settings in the manual, The Tubo is still behaving erratically.

Temps are after a few seconds reading over 700 degrees C., which leaves me with a wattage of 0,9 and zero vape..

I'm hoping that anyone can give me input on setting that could be of, causing the malfunction.. Maybe in the "expert setting", or some of the newer vaping setting, that are not very well described in the manual..

I'm really hoping that this can be solved since i know that an awesome vape the Tubo can be when it's functioning properly.

All the best,
L
 
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007mm

New Member
@KeroZen I finally received a 510 adapter and I think it solved my problem! The temp doesn't change when i press on the top and my resistance is pretty consistent at around .185. I think I'll still have to mess around with it and the settings a bit to make it perfect, but from just plugging it in there's a huge improvement. I ordered a few different kinds because they're very cheap and I wasn't sure which would work, so it's possible that the others might be even better. Thanks for the advice!
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Next step would be to re-calibrate the mod internal resistance in theory, but from memory tuboevic firmware doesn't have that option? (might be wrong, but it's in ArticFox and Escribe that I'm sure)
 
KeroZen,
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sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
Temps are after a few seconds reading over 700 degrees C., which leaves me with a wattage of 0,9 and zero vape..

When the mod reads 700 degrees are you sure you are in TUBO mode?

3 clicks should make the top line (which needs to read TUBO) flash. Use the + button to make sure the top line says TUBO.

Then, Fire button and + button together will take you to the settings.

Under manage coils(?) under vaping, make sure the TUBO/resistance is at .185. save the changes and try to vape again.

I personally had 2 Joytech Cuboid 200 mods that keep knocking me from TUBO mode toVW mode.

Make sure that before you start a cruise the resistance number is correct so you don't risk burning your Evic. A single click on the plus + button should get the info to register on the screen. Once you are sure the resistance/Tubo settings are correct then you can begin your cruise or temp step cruise.

Please confirm your settings and my instructions, I have been playing around with mods lately and not taking too many cruises.

For the record, I have had several Joytech/Wismec mods crap out on me and I am understanding the comment one of the more experienced 510 users said when they suggested top shelf mods for top shelf performance.
 

cgod

Well-Known Member
Using my Tubo for days, still getting used to it! When I pack my basket ( around a .1) I get strong vape, I'm guessing because it's right next to the heating element, but yesterday i wanted to pack more so I took the basket out and filled the stem instead with around a .2, but for some reason after around five pulls I could only taste the materiel and didnt get any clouds only until I turned it up to 205c which was better but not the production I get of other vapes, any tips will be helpful!
 
cgod,

leveltree

never wanted to beat that one ;)
@Azn2101
The mentioned rsp-200-4 is the best option you have for a PA. I bought an adapter with my Tubo so I only had to set up the power supply and connect it properly, not build an adapter on my own. You could do this of course.

There might be another supply with the needed voltage and watts but this was also the cheapest when I checked and it's quality stuff.

@Leolo
If you can't get it back to default, try flashing the memory while updating with the Arctic Fox software. I described it a few posts before already. Only make sure to set your unique resistance afterwards.
This should rule out any settings problems.

@cgod
As mentioned before, distance to heater makes a huge difference, also the compression of material of course.
It doesn't surprise me at least that you get less vapour even with more material when it's farther away/less dense packed.
Higher temperatures or a screen mid-stem to hold it closer and denser could be a solution.

:peace:
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
:p You should validate this feeling with a temp sensor .Having enough heatmass to prevent large heatdrop is nothing like the algorithms balancing stuff involved in the Tubo software. I have validated that TUBO software delivers temps pretty close to reality with a temp probe, i am no expert in the field of PID/TC/Math stuff but i have confirmed it with simple a simple pt 100 :).

Well you have to test it to believe it, but this is the Tubo thread so let's not derail it too much.

And again as I said above, precise TC has drawbacks and it's why many users revert to VW after a while with other 510 vapes. I don't know how well the Tubo works in VW though, and since it's well configured for TC out of the box I guess not many users even tried it?
 
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KeroZen,
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Leolo

New Member
Next step would be to re-calibrate the mod internal resistance in theory, but from memory tuboevic firmware doesn't have that option? (might be wrong, but it's in ArticFox and Escribe that I'm sure)

thanks for the input! I don't know what internal resistance is, but i've toyed with coil resistance. If i go upp from recommended 0.228 towards 0.260 the thermostat/algoritm gives me lower reading which enables me to actually use the vape.. The downside is that the actual temps seem to rise, leaving me with burnt weed even if i stopp pulling the trigger before reaching 210.. I still have to let go of the trigger every few second to not go over set temps though.

Edit: Arctic fox seems a bit difficult? I'm also on a mac and have a feeling thees programs usually rund smoother on windows ..?

When the mod reads 700 degrees are you sure you are in TUBO mode?

3 clicks should make the top line (which needs to read TUBO) flash. Use the + button to make sure the top line says TUBO.

Then, Fire button and + button together will take you to the settings.

Under manage coils(?) under vaping, make sure the TUBO/resistance is at .185. save the changes and try to vape again.

I personally had 2 Joytech Cuboid 200 mods that keep knocking me from TUBO mode toVW mode.

Make sure that before you start a cruise the resistance number is correct so you don't risk burning your Evic. A single click on the plus + button should get the info to register on the screen. Once you are sure the resistance/Tubo settings are correct then you can begin your cruise or temp step cruise.

Please confirm your settings and my instructions, I have been playing around with mods lately and not taking too many cruises.

For the record, I have had several Joytech/Wismec mods crap out on me and I am understanding the comment one of the more experienced 510 users said when they suggested top shelf mods for top shelf performance.

Thanks SMF for the input!

Yes I finally did manage to download the latest Tubo firmware. The 3 clicks confirmed this, and also tried to reinstall which didn't help.

M1 M2 and M3 are all set to .185.. I should post photos of all my settings.. to make sure everything is right before i resort to getting a new Evic..

Yeah, i can see that pricier mods probably are more reliable, but i wont everything to fit in my beautiful wooden box! :)
 
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KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Oh I was not recommending you switch to AF. Tuboevic is definitely the way to go with the FJ's vapes. I was just wondering whether it exposed a parameter to set the mod internal resistance (ie. the fixed part of the equation that doesn't change with temperature)

Some posts above you said you resistance was constant 0.185 but then just above you said you upped it to 0.260? I think it should be set to whatever cold resistance reading you really get, not to what other users have. Every heater is slightly different.
 
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