I know, and all I'm saying is that I think there is more to the problem than you or I understand. You're not directly calling them stupid, but by saying it's so simple what implication do you think people will get?
Discontinued Thermovape Cera (Original thread, closed because of chaos)
- Thread starter SameOldTim
- Start date
- Status
I know, and all I'm saying is that I think there is more to the problem than you or I understand. You're not directly calling them stupid, but by saying it's so simple what implication do you think people will get?
J.D.420
420th Dragoons
I'm thinking we'll be able to temporarily rig something up that will keep the momentary button pushed in so we can go 'hands-free'. Maybe as simple as getting a zip tie and a pliable piece of wire a couple inches long. Put the wire across the bottom and secure that on Cera with the ziptie so you can push the wire in and the momentary button will stay recessed. Not sure how much pressure you need on the momentary button though. Any thoughts?
.....on a sad note, I found this pic surfing. Those would've looked pretty awesome on Cera I must say.
This post got me thinking. OF in your opinion how difficult would it be to modify an "off the shelf" latching switch for use in the cera?
OF
Well-Known Member
You're welcome, glad to help when I can.
For sure what's 'pocket friendly' depends on whose pocket we're talking about and how friendly we want to be.
I have both the Flashvape and Cera (might be the only guy that does?). Both are neat products IMO but they are in no way similar in size or shape. The skinniest part of FV is about the same diameter as the shorter Cera at one inch, however the bottom ring is almost two inches in diameter, the head is larger still. One fits comfortably in my pants pocket, the other doesn't come close.
You might want to double check that. It seems to me while it's shorter, it's basically the same thickness as Cera and half again wider? I doubt it's really smaller over all?
And as Pak said, a lot of clever guys have looked at the real problem (not just photographs), it is by no means a simple problem IMO......or it wouldn't be a problem at all.
And excellent idea. In fact Tim and I discussed just that lately. I believe we should be able to find a suitable switch that can be potted into the cap (the current version has the spring potted to the switch) which makes adapting all the easier. Finding a US made one will probably make it a little harder, but there should be other suitable ones out there.....got to do some poking around on it, having another option would be mighty handy right about now....
OF
dudu0069
Well-Known Member
Since thermovape is still doing preorders can someone clarify some info. I already have an 18650 charger but have no batteries. If i order the cera for $249 will it come with atleast 1 battery or you have to buy that. Also what is this info about buying now and getting 2 batteries and 2 different switches. Is now a good time to jump in since thermovape is including extra accessories or not.
Medical Mark
Well-Known Member
Well I'm not trying to be difficult it was just theoretical , don't want to offend wrong wording I quess its just a observation of how it works if I. Wrong I'm wrong. I make suggestions about the product just like all of you do about changing or modifying the latching switch this also suggests its inferior or am I wrong I'm not saying there product is made with no science or tech knowledge behind there changes that's there opinion and right to change I'm just observing the product and its workings like the switches ect just like all of you concerning the latching switch.
I'm not the only one here wondering why this pin switch was advertised as a safety on/off secondary toggle switch on there website and videos to be changed to a safety pin that causes the unit to work only if its removed that's a huge difference between the two and especially since its being advertised on the site as such.
I think both ideas have valid points and could work either way it just depends on preference and paying attention the original configuration had you turn it on via bottom switch and you could then turn on the heater via the side switch when wanted. Now you have to use the bottom switch only. If I loose this pin the battery and the heat are in contact at all times and I can activate it at
Any time via the bottom switch but putting it in turns it off even if the bottom switch is pushed in.
What's the point really for the pin then ?
I liked the original idea that's all hey that's my opinion I'm still getting one but hey they might regret changing it. Time will tell at least if they wanted to perfect that original idea all it would take is a pin, they could invent a better one and sell it later on this is what I hope.
Sorry for rattling feathers here but I thought this was a forum where you can share ideas, opinions, concerns, that's all I'm doing am I little bit of a mad scientist only wanting the best and when your spending thousands of dollars year after year cause your sick to have the best vaporizers at your disposal as a need not a hobby is the reasoning behind my thoughts.
I'm not trying to belittle anyone, sorry
I'm not the only one here wondering why this pin switch was advertised as a safety on/off secondary toggle switch on there website and videos to be changed to a safety pin that causes the unit to work only if its removed that's a huge difference between the two and especially since its being advertised on the site as such.
I think both ideas have valid points and could work either way it just depends on preference and paying attention the original configuration had you turn it on via bottom switch and you could then turn on the heater via the side switch when wanted. Now you have to use the bottom switch only. If I loose this pin the battery and the heat are in contact at all times and I can activate it at
Any time via the bottom switch but putting it in turns it off even if the bottom switch is pushed in.
What's the point really for the pin then ?
I liked the original idea that's all hey that's my opinion I'm still getting one but hey they might regret changing it. Time will tell at least if they wanted to perfect that original idea all it would take is a pin, they could invent a better one and sell it later on this is what I hope.
Sorry for rattling feathers here but I thought this was a forum where you can share ideas, opinions, concerns, that's all I'm doing am I little bit of a mad scientist only wanting the best and when your spending thousands of dollars year after year cause your sick to have the best vaporizers at your disposal as a need not a hobby is the reasoning behind my thoughts.
I'm not trying to belittle anyone, sorry
2ndSight
Member
From my understanding, I believe you have it backwards actually? Someone (OF) chime in and correct me if i'm also wrong.
I believe the function for the Cera as it is being shipped is:
When the pin is IN: the power will NOT turn on when you press the bottom button (safety).
When the pin is OUT: the power functions normally.
Still no second switch, but seems like a sensible thing, most people will not have the pin in most of the time, as others have suggested.
2nd,
I believe your description of the switch is correct. Someone used a 'hand grenade' analogy earlier-"Pull the pin and the grenade (CERA) is live"
NN
OF
Well-Known Member
Gentle Friends,
I just got back from another (IMO) very exciting visit at TV. After trying to compose my thoughts over a nice lunch, let me give you some news?
First of all, to really throw the fat into the fire, I saw (and actually touched) the first five production units completed and tested, ready for packing. There'd be more but they ran out of the copper braid that's needed to fit the new momentary switch in and make connection. It turned out to be the the best option for using the switch and their modest supply for testing didn't go far. More is in transit and may be here already (due today). What with the holiday and all they probably won't actually ship to their lucky new owners until Tuesday, but perhaps by then the braid will be in and there'll be more completed units? There are more of everything else needed in boxes waiting on less than half a dollar's worth of copper per. This time next week they should be rolling along.
As an added free bonus the first run of new caps came in on the new tooling. They don't slip around like before, you need to lube 'em up with a tiny bit of ISO (or I'm sure water would work) before sliding them home. You have to peal them off again, great fit! The first batch is black. No body 'skins' available as yet, but IMO the cap part is the useful part really.
Likewise the final version of the safety pin is done. It picked up a slightly oversize screw head on the free end so it's retained better, it takes a firm pull to get it out, it won't be coming out accidentally. I has a small loop on the end to attach it to your key ring if you wish, in which case a small clip:
http://www.amazon.com/Photon-Quick-...BNIE/ref=pd_luc_bxgy_01_03_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1
or one of those couplers like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/SE-Pull-Apart-Key-Ring-Pack/dp/B000O9KD5E/ref=pd_sbs_op_1
might be a good call.
Perhaps most exciting in the long run is why they called me in, they gave me a new LL core to test. It seems that they're trying out a 'maximum power' heater (16 Watts). This is just below the 'burns out if you push it' level aimed at the cloud chasers in the audience. You know who you are.
Nothing is free. The same constraints that pointed to using lower power (longer battery life, etc) are still in play here. Using it will require the 2250 mAh IMR battery (the 'replacement' being shipped) it seems for instance. Shorter battery life because of the lower capacity (which we already know) but it'll be shorter still due to the higher power needed. My off the cuff guess is a little over 20 minutes? A big boost from T1 but not the twice that long I got from the original core and the 2900 mAh battery originally planned (and hopefully available again soon?). Compromises, life is full of 'em. But IMO this is a compromise that will be warmly welcomed by many. I'll know more in a week or so when I've had some quality time with it. One way or the other I'm hoping for two power level options in the future. One for those of us looking for maximum run time and wide battery suitability coupled with lower self heating (longer sessions) and something special for the 'damn the torpedos Cloud Chasers'.
Pretty cool if you asked me.....I know nobody did, but now you know without having to.
It's a nice day out, I think it's time to retire to the garden to visit the cats and do some serious testing.....
Best wishes to all. Looks like the wait is nearly over.
OF
I just got back from another (IMO) very exciting visit at TV. After trying to compose my thoughts over a nice lunch, let me give you some news?
First of all, to really throw the fat into the fire, I saw (and actually touched) the first five production units completed and tested, ready for packing. There'd be more but they ran out of the copper braid that's needed to fit the new momentary switch in and make connection. It turned out to be the the best option for using the switch and their modest supply for testing didn't go far. More is in transit and may be here already (due today). What with the holiday and all they probably won't actually ship to their lucky new owners until Tuesday, but perhaps by then the braid will be in and there'll be more completed units? There are more of everything else needed in boxes waiting on less than half a dollar's worth of copper per. This time next week they should be rolling along.
As an added free bonus the first run of new caps came in on the new tooling. They don't slip around like before, you need to lube 'em up with a tiny bit of ISO (or I'm sure water would work) before sliding them home. You have to peal them off again, great fit! The first batch is black. No body 'skins' available as yet, but IMO the cap part is the useful part really.
Likewise the final version of the safety pin is done. It picked up a slightly oversize screw head on the free end so it's retained better, it takes a firm pull to get it out, it won't be coming out accidentally. I has a small loop on the end to attach it to your key ring if you wish, in which case a small clip:
http://www.amazon.com/Photon-Quick-...BNIE/ref=pd_luc_bxgy_01_03_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1
or one of those couplers like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/SE-Pull-Apart-Key-Ring-Pack/dp/B000O9KD5E/ref=pd_sbs_op_1
might be a good call.
Perhaps most exciting in the long run is why they called me in, they gave me a new LL core to test. It seems that they're trying out a 'maximum power' heater (16 Watts). This is just below the 'burns out if you push it' level aimed at the cloud chasers in the audience. You know who you are.
Nothing is free. The same constraints that pointed to using lower power (longer battery life, etc) are still in play here. Using it will require the 2250 mAh IMR battery (the 'replacement' being shipped) it seems for instance. Shorter battery life because of the lower capacity (which we already know) but it'll be shorter still due to the higher power needed. My off the cuff guess is a little over 20 minutes? A big boost from T1 but not the twice that long I got from the original core and the 2900 mAh battery originally planned (and hopefully available again soon?). Compromises, life is full of 'em. But IMO this is a compromise that will be warmly welcomed by many. I'll know more in a week or so when I've had some quality time with it. One way or the other I'm hoping for two power level options in the future. One for those of us looking for maximum run time and wide battery suitability coupled with lower self heating (longer sessions) and something special for the 'damn the torpedos Cloud Chasers'.
Pretty cool if you asked me.....I know nobody did, but now you know without having to.
It's a nice day out, I think it's time to retire to the garden to visit the cats and do some serious testing.....
Best wishes to all. Looks like the wait is nearly over.
OF
and goodbye!
OF
Well-Known Member
No doubt about it, you qualify. You haven't even seen what the projected model can do and you want more! And you're not alone. And you collectively have been heard. It just seems Murphy has had some fun with us by delaying shipment of 'first articles' to the start of a promising Beta test on an improve (from one perspective) version. Gotta love how it works out sometimes. It might not be for everyone (in fact I'm sure it's not) but the trade offs are obviously a good deal on the face of it to true believers.....
Thanks for the kid wishes, I got interrupted and had to make an emergency run to the cat food store, and thought I'd check in before resuming the test (although the garden is getting into shadows this late in the day).
No, sorry I wasn't clear enough, there are five black caps on that same bench in their little row, one free to a customer. I think that the plan going forward, include it unmounted with the spare rings and stuff and let the customer decide. I think it's great, because it changed my idea of what a 'skin' was.....although I like the look of the ceramic, it's really striking in strong light where the machining was done to put the narrow part of the 'wasp waist' in. I'll probably grow tired of looking at it eventually, but for now it catches my eye from time to time.
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
Is this new LL core a much further down the line kind of deal? I'm one of those fat clouds kind of guys...
Unknown. There are dark forces in play, some wanting to make it standard right now and saying 'make a low power one for the wimps'. Others are saying 'let's be sure it's not a bomb, and make it optional at that point'. Some say 'let's keep it simple, pick a power'.
In any event, we'll know more when it gets run some more. It's going to take a week or more at least to get a feel for how it compares to the other, over several battery types I have. By chance they're in a position to 'recover' easily and change the status of what ships. The battery on hand is 'right' for the high power cores and there'll only be a dozen or two customers involved before a clearer picture firms up. That is if they say decide to go with the lower power one that's planned and built and Beta test the new one some (my normal tendency) some small number of easy to find customers could be given options to swap and future shipments from that time given the choice. Or, if they get brave and ship the 'Beta version' at first and hit a rock, not many 'problem cores' will be in circulation yet. I doubt there will be problems (although anything is possible, which is why you test) but for at least some users the extra power will not be useful (medical types, not after world record clouds) and will have the negative features of shorter run times and hotter bodies and batteries (which is not a good idea at all, we already beat the batteries up badly, baking them more than needed will not help). I think the best solution allows users the choice.
How it shakes out I don't know yet. When I left the opinions were bouncing around and they were getting a couple dozen cores of each type staged. Once the decision is made, they're ready to go either way. I'll be passing that along as soon as I know more.
For now I think, open as it is, the news is either good (shipping is starting) or better than we hoped ('Cloud Chaser' carts may become standard or an option real soon). No doubt someone can find a negative in there, but I can't.
OF
iamn3ko
Well-Known Member
So they're probably not available for 2nd batch of Pre order shipments I'm assuming?
Think TET would be interested in doing a 16 watt core for me instead of the normal?
I know I'm really jumping the gun here, but I feel pretty confident that 16watt core is going to be my sweet spot.
The vids of LL look great, but I'm more of a heavy hitter or I don't feel MY desired effects.
Think TET would be interested in doing a 16 watt core for me instead of the normal?
I know I'm really jumping the gun here, but I feel pretty confident that 16watt core is going to be my sweet spot.
The vids of LL look great, but I'm more of a heavy hitter or I don't feel MY desired effects.
AirDru
Well-Known Member
I know what you mean amigo. I keep my buddies Volcano on the highest heat setting 9.
what can i say, i like dense milky vapor...
*****Battery Note******
I had a couple reminders about the seriousness of the dangers in using high powered batteries and what can happen.
The reason I am posting here is because Cera LL is running at about the same current as my own creation and I run it basically the same way.
The element, from what I have read here, is around the 1 ohm mark and my Bulli is running at about the same.
With this in mind I feel it necessary to share my "near miss" experiences in hopes to de-rail possible accidents from other users.
Also, enforces why the "pin" is a definite safety necessity.
OK, the big one first. The reason I say the big one is because it happened for no reason except for (hopefully) the manufacturing and rating of battery.
It started with performing normally, which BTW was as good as my AW batteries and worked for weeks, and all of a sudden I noticed the base of my battery holder getting VERY HOT VERY FAST.
Even though it was still performing with my device, I took out the battery quickly and just laid it on the table expecting it to cool down. Started to inspect my unit looking for shorts etc. and reached to feel the battery on the table. It was continuing to get hotter and could not even touch it. After about 5 seconds it "popped" it's pressure cap under the nipple. I grabbed the tongs from the kitchen draw and out the door into the little snow we had. I can only imagine this happening while not expecting it and possible outcomes.
This is the one in question, it is a Blue UniqueFire 3200 mAh HXM 18650.
It was just a battery which I got with a LED laser I had purchased a while back. I know it's just a cheap battery but was performing great and showed no indication that this was going to happen. I think this is an experience worth sharing and should at least heighten the caution level when dealing with experimenting with non-recommended batteries.
This brings up a second event that happened to me while using IMR batteries on the same device. This one I'll take credit for, or at least partial? The nice thing about IMR batteries is the high drain characteristics and can push huge amounts of current and deliver in a fairly safe way as their chemistry prevents any catastrophic explosion. However, missing a protection circuit has some pitfalls.
My device accidentally turned itself on in my winter coat while in the car. About 15 minutes into the drive I thought I could smell something. I had my device already out and it checked out OK, so I figured it was something coming from outside of the car. The smell kept getting worse. By 20 minutes I remembered my second device in my side pocket. Reached in and ouch, F*CK...repeated many times. Took it out and tossed it into the center console holder. Went to press the power switch off and found it was basically missing. It had melted and fallen apart. This was actually a good thing as the cheap switch acted as a thermo cut out. Not in a pretty way mind you. The red Efest 1500 mAh IMR had also suffered some damage. The bottom wrapper had shrunk and risen up the side from the bottom of battery by about 1 mm. Seems to still work though. My theory was this battery got over heated by over discharging.
Folks can draw their own conclusions but I have come to is to use only PCB (intelligent) protected batteries. IMO, short circuit and under voltage cut off are definitely needed.
In fact accidentally shorting out an IMR can melt the ground spring in a heart beat. (that one was 100% my fault, opps)
As for the UniqueFire, that's a real mystery and really opened my eyes as to things that can happen when trying to save a buck. Or a fluke?
Sorry for the long post but folks should know what CAN happen even when not doing anything wrong. (debatable)
With all that been said, the batteries recommended by the TET would be best bet until others report working and have safety in mind. AFWIW, I think Noah's advise of using lower rated batteries in the Li-ion protected types good advise. His example was if a manufacturer offers both a 2900 and a 3100 battery, best pick the 2900 mAh as can deliver better.
My 3100 AW batteries are just on the working side of the threshold if load goes under 1 ohm the voltage drops too much. (and IIRC, it's rated for over 6 amp continuous)
Hope this information is helpful for some, or at least entertaining,?
Pipes
I had a couple reminders about the seriousness of the dangers in using high powered batteries and what can happen.
The reason I am posting here is because Cera LL is running at about the same current as my own creation and I run it basically the same way.
The element, from what I have read here, is around the 1 ohm mark and my Bulli is running at about the same.
With this in mind I feel it necessary to share my "near miss" experiences in hopes to de-rail possible accidents from other users.
Also, enforces why the "pin" is a definite safety necessity.
OK, the big one first. The reason I say the big one is because it happened for no reason except for (hopefully) the manufacturing and rating of battery.
It started with performing normally, which BTW was as good as my AW batteries and worked for weeks, and all of a sudden I noticed the base of my battery holder getting VERY HOT VERY FAST.
Even though it was still performing with my device, I took out the battery quickly and just laid it on the table expecting it to cool down. Started to inspect my unit looking for shorts etc. and reached to feel the battery on the table. It was continuing to get hotter and could not even touch it. After about 5 seconds it "popped" it's pressure cap under the nipple. I grabbed the tongs from the kitchen draw and out the door into the little snow we had. I can only imagine this happening while not expecting it and possible outcomes.
This is the one in question, it is a Blue UniqueFire 3200 mAh HXM 18650.
It was just a battery which I got with a LED laser I had purchased a while back. I know it's just a cheap battery but was performing great and showed no indication that this was going to happen. I think this is an experience worth sharing and should at least heighten the caution level when dealing with experimenting with non-recommended batteries.
This brings up a second event that happened to me while using IMR batteries on the same device. This one I'll take credit for, or at least partial? The nice thing about IMR batteries is the high drain characteristics and can push huge amounts of current and deliver in a fairly safe way as their chemistry prevents any catastrophic explosion. However, missing a protection circuit has some pitfalls.
My device accidentally turned itself on in my winter coat while in the car. About 15 minutes into the drive I thought I could smell something. I had my device already out and it checked out OK, so I figured it was something coming from outside of the car. The smell kept getting worse. By 20 minutes I remembered my second device in my side pocket. Reached in and ouch, F*CK...repeated many times. Took it out and tossed it into the center console holder. Went to press the power switch off and found it was basically missing. It had melted and fallen apart. This was actually a good thing as the cheap switch acted as a thermo cut out. Not in a pretty way mind you. The red Efest 1500 mAh IMR had also suffered some damage. The bottom wrapper had shrunk and risen up the side from the bottom of battery by about 1 mm. Seems to still work though. My theory was this battery got over heated by over discharging.
Folks can draw their own conclusions but I have come to is to use only PCB (intelligent) protected batteries. IMO, short circuit and under voltage cut off are definitely needed.
In fact accidentally shorting out an IMR can melt the ground spring in a heart beat. (that one was 100% my fault, opps)
As for the UniqueFire, that's a real mystery and really opened my eyes as to things that can happen when trying to save a buck. Or a fluke?
Sorry for the long post but folks should know what CAN happen even when not doing anything wrong. (debatable)
With all that been said, the batteries recommended by the TET would be best bet until others report working and have safety in mind. AFWIW, I think Noah's advise of using lower rated batteries in the Li-ion protected types good advise. His example was if a manufacturer offers both a 2900 and a 3100 battery, best pick the 2900 mAh as can deliver better.
My 3100 AW batteries are just on the working side of the threshold if load goes under 1 ohm the voltage drops too much. (and IIRC, it's rated for over 6 amp continuous)
Hope this information is helpful for some, or at least entertaining,?
Pipes
jambandphan03
in flavor country
it is no joke, people over in the ecig forums can tell you, using unprotected batteries, or even just cheap knock offs can really cause some serious harm if they discharge inside the tube. Hopefully nobody here will ever have to experience it, but it is a very real concern, thanks for pointing that out Pipes. Please choose batteries carefully.
ShipDit
1%
Of,I know you don't work for TET,but your constant flow of intelligent posts have no doubt stopped a lot of folks from just saying "fuck it,I'm getting something else..." If you're not being compensated in some way,you should be. At the very least TET should produce a laser-engraved "OF" edition for your tireless efforts on there behalf.
Not to be a kiss-ass,but thanks bro. It's nice to know someone with an I.Q. higher that an ice cube is in our corner.
I'm serious man....you can tell that because I just posted in the Cera thread without making a single dick-joke.
Just in case we never meet,here's to ya.
Not to be a kiss-ass,but thanks bro. It's nice to know someone with an I.Q. higher that an ice cube is in our corner.
I'm serious man....you can tell that because I just posted in the Cera thread without making a single dick-joke.
Just in case we never meet,here's to ya.
OF
Well-Known Member
Wow. Pretty scary stuff. While driving? I don't think they let you into heaven if you die that way do they? Apologies to Bill Cosby......
I've missed 'your stuff' lately, when you decided to op up and post it's a true pip! Advice to take real seriously IMO. Staying with tested, proven types is I think golden advice. Finding 'better' batteries based on the web, even if cheaper, might not be all that clever in the end.
BTW, for those concerned, one of the issues holding up the switch assembly was the epoxy part so they could use one of the special protective 'collapsing springs' I'm told. Won't do you any good for a low qualilty battery that self distructs like the first case above of course, but it could save your bacon in a cook off like the second.....maybe. I briefly tested lots of types I have around, but for use I'm sticking with 'the factory battery' myself.
Thanks very much for the post, a word to the wise for sure....let's hope we're wise enough to pick up on it?
I'm not sure when (or even if, there might be a problem there?) they will be approved for shipment by TV management, but I'm sure if it happens it'll be soon and no doubt retroactive. If they elect to ship the 14s until 16s are proven then decide to authorize they'll give early guys the option to swap cores (or perhaps get theirs rebuilt for free?).
Don't sweat it, from my brief testing it's perhaps a little faster but I'm thus far not able to get thicker clouds from it (I have trouble maxing out the 14 Watt one on purpose.....I'm not secretly Noah pretending to be a mortal human). I'm confident you'll be happy with 'even the 14 Watt one', but understand how knowing there's a 16 out there will keep you up at night......
Naw, no bucks, I'm retired that's taken care of...... I really enjoy helping them, I think their mission is a very important one helping hundreds of folks in need. Thousands really I guess. Just like here, I'm glad to help if I can. I have, of course, accumulated a very useful set of Beta units, kind of beat up but they all work just fine (or Tim rebuilt them until they did.....). I like that part too.
Funny you should mention the 'laser-engraved "OF" edition' they actually did exactly that! I have a special T1 body with "OF's" where the serial number should be on the bottom.
After thanking you, please stop the gushy stuff you're making me blush......
It's super to be told you're appreciated, thanks very much.
Just so you know you owe us two dick jokes next post....we'll let this one pass.....
OF
SMELLYcat
My name is SMELLYcat and I like to Party!
With the original style switch on/off . If I stoner out and leave it on, could this result in a fast discharge failure? Or at least a overheated mess.
There is no auto shutoff so it will just keep vaping untill the battery is dead?
Maybe the momentary switch is a better suit for people like me, with short term memory! ahahh
I am scary about battery failure. Thanks for the info Pipes.
There is no auto shutoff so it will just keep vaping untill the battery is dead?
Maybe the momentary switch is a better suit for people like me, with short term memory! ahahh
I am scary about battery failure. Thanks for the info Pipes.
BLAZING OG
Vaping is a way of life!
I, selfelf am a cloud chaser, but a 16 watt core might be more use fuoriginallyiginally thought, CBD'S for pain are extracted a bit better with higher temps, and if you could pull huge clouds , then that would mean someone who wants smaller clouds just hits it shorter or lighter, like a fast sports car that can be driven like a daily driver by giving it a little gas, or when needed give it more gas an now your 0-60 is is 4..0 seconds flat !
Edit
I am excited to see TET offer so many options for so many different type of Vapist needs!
Edit
I am excited to see TET offer so many options for so many different type of Vapist needs!
Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
I don't think pulling the higher-temp cannabinoids will be a problem with the Cera, but higher temps does equal bigger clouds/less hits to finish a bowl, and will probably also mean you won't get as many flavorful hits as the "standard" LL core. I'm sure you'll be able to get those tasty hits with the stronger core, just probably not as many (similarly to the Pax?) I'm not sure how I feel about a 20 minute runtime, though. Is that 20 minutes of it turned on and left to discharge? How does that transfer into real-world use?
ShipDit
1%
Question for "those in the know",in one of the first vids. Noah takes off the cap when he takes a break and says something like "It's a one-for-one thing,if you use Cera for 3 mins,plan on removing the cap for 3 mins" or something to that effect.
Call me dense but I gotta ask why? Is it to avoid unwanted conduction? Just how important is "cool down time"?
I was really high when I noticed this so the question probably isn't even relevant anymore but was just wondering....
Oh yeah,I owe the thread 2 dick jokes,but only one comes to mind......when I asked the little lady what color skin she would prefer on her Cera she answered "Puerto Rican".....should I be concerned?
Call me dense but I gotta ask why? Is it to avoid unwanted conduction? Just how important is "cool down time"?
I was really high when I noticed this so the question probably isn't even relevant anymore but was just wondering....
Oh yeah,I owe the thread 2 dick jokes,but only one comes to mind......when I asked the little lady what color skin she would prefer on her Cera she answered "Puerto Rican".....should I be concerned?
Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
It might be to help cool the ceramic faster. I think keeping the cap on retains the heat a lot better than with it off. I don't think the stored heat would be enough to get the flower to vaping temp? It can get pretty warm, though, as OF mentioned.
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