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Discontinued The Sublimator

jrk4d

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't call it fluidization really. Most vapes kinda do something like this by melting the resins to liquid then quickly to aeresol which is then inhaled at whatever the temp is. Most vapes worry a lot about the temp being very constant to make that happen. With the sub constant temp defeats the whole purpose. Very hot air is being rushed over the material very quickly. The very stable fibers and sugars are lightly touched by the short hit, while the super hot air takes care of the complete extraction. This super high temp is the "danger" area that we will not go down that is where the sublimation claim comes from.(Not relevant to your question) The atomizer works by compressing and reheating the large vapor particles through a 2mm chokepoint and breaks them into tiny bits that then expand like crazy through the bottom of the part of your atomizer
The even extraction comes from the hot chamber not cooling any of the incoming air. That mix with the super hot swirling air and small shallow loads leads to the thorough extraction. In all honesty I think someone really early in this thread said it best when he/she said the sub is the first actual "vaporizer" as without the reheating process i don't believe the aerosol is ever actually turned to vapor, even with very high temps used..:2c: don't claim to be an engineer,scientist, or anything that would give me a particularly deep insight, just :spliff: thoughts
 

Detonator

Well-Known Member
I wish I had another OG sub for backup..... I love the 12 ft no tripping cord I put on mine. Timer -lol I always want a hit.

I love the Sublimator

And if you ask me is it also a great e-nail - well I tried but wtf skip to 2:29 to see the sub and skip the review

 
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herbivore21

Well-Known Member
I will eventually look inside the monkey controller and find out which part of the electronics engages the timer guys. I will report back the second I find the way to take the shut-off timer out of the circuit!

Those above dabs look nice! Looking forward to having me a sub to use as an enail, I mostly do dabs and whilst I've gotten my quartz and ti nails down using a manual torch and no timer, I can't wait to be able to just dab at any time!
 

cow-a-bunga

Well-Known Member
My Sub 1.0 has started losing temp. I will probably do the dimmer mod, but was wondering what PlanetVape will offer me if i return the unit.

I am in 240v area and have been using the Sub with a voltage converter so maybe no warranty at all??

@herbivore21, I don't know hat happens in the Atomizer but the Sub has completely cured my desktop VAS. It really is awesome. I hope you can help 2.0 owners with a mod to kill the timer.
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
My Sub 1.0 has started losing temp. I will probably do the dimmer mod, but was wondering what PlanetVape will offer me if i return the unit.

I am in 240v area and have been using the Sub with a voltage converter so maybe no warranty at all??

@herbivore21, I don't know hat happens in the Atomizer but the Sub has completely cured my desktop VAS. It really is awesome. I hope you can help 2.0 owners with a mod to kill the timer.
Man I hope I can too!

I am guessing that either in the power supply or the monkey controller we are gonna find one of these:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer_IC or something similar.

I have never worked with electronic items that use these shut off timers, but correctly removing such a component from whichever PCB it is attached to (inside either the controller or PSU).

To discover how to remove the timer, it is best to ask yourself 'how would I make a vaporizer shut off after an hour of use?'

This is where it has taken me so far!

To anyone with an xlr 2.0:

Are there visible screws presumably to open up the controller and/or PSU on your sub?

By the way, I am qualified to do this electrical work. Don't do the same to your sublimator unless you are also!

EDIT:

http://www.apogeekits.com/start_stop_timer_k2579.htm

I would expect to see a module similar to this somewhere in the controller or power supply unit which would be responsible for the timer shut off ;)

I will consult friends/ex colleagues who have used this kind of component before on whether any other change should need to be made, but I would assume just desoldering this from a PCB (printed circuit board) is all we will need to do to get rid of the timer in the XLR 2.0 model.
 
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herbivore21,
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herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Apologies for the double post, but my Sub (ti dabmaster adapt a piece kit) should be here tomorrow with a little luck :D

Here's to entering into the top tier of vapes! I hope it is worth the $600 odd. But you guys have me reasonably convinced that it is.

I've gotta say that FC is pretty much the only resource where people talk about this vape itself, rather than just whether the advertising claims are accurate.

I've also gotta say, I think it would have been better not to appropriate scientific language like biogasification (which refers to the turning of a chunk of biological waste into a gas by anaerobic bacteria which by definition CANNOT live where there is oxygen - this is absolutely NOT what takes place when subbing due to the presence of oxygen in the airpath!).

If the cannabinoids are a solid being directly turned into gas without an intermediary liquid state, then it could be correctly said that this is sublimation, not vaporization. This could be a useful distinction to make in advertising and would be a legitimate selling point.

However, the question then becomes are the cannabinoids on your plant material technically a liquid, or a solid? If they are a liquid, then you would have to say this is a vaporizer, not a sublimation device.

However, this is all irrelevant to me, since I can see as clear as day that this is the best possible fit for a plug-in vape for me that is available and will run on our AC power.

Still, I can't help but feel that this vape would have a much, much bigger audience and buzz around it if the advertising language was cleared up! Biggest selling point to me is that to be honest, the parts of the unit worth the most money are huge chunks of titanium/SS. These are not gonna break unless you do something ridiculous with them! The 10 year warranty on these parts is a testament to this!

The monkey controller is likely to be just a nice purpose made dimmer (potentially with a timer module of some kind in the circuit here) and the PSU is just a 36v purpose built psu (other 36v psu's can be found online for purchase reasonably cheaply, with the same terminations/connector plugs) which also may be where the timer module is housed.

I am used to working with XLR cables (including cutting, splicing and terminating them) due to my work in live sound and recording studios over the years. I also have several more knowledgable electricians and electrical engineers than myself at my disposal. This timer workaround is gonna happen! I will pass on the info as I get it!

Has anyone wired an extension XLR cable for the Monkey controller before? Do we know the pin arrangement? I am thinking this will be an early project too lol
 
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Been Vapin

Fringe Class
Make sure you follow the proper initial cleaning procedure. There is a lot of excess machining oils.

Im in the process of cleaning my broken Apollo to send back to Canada. Thing is really stained. Might just steel wool it off.

@CG420 did you receive a brand new unit for your RMA?
 

CG420

Over the horizon u can see the edges of the Earth
Yes I have @Been Vapin. I remember mentioning it earlier in the thread. I received it as brand new but the color of the cord and dial was brown as opposed to my original. It isn't worth the trouble for me to send it back because it costed me almost 50 bucks to send it back and receive it altogether. I do hope within the upcoming year that it will start showing fluctuations and low max wattage to send it back one more time. My original sub started to showed signs of problems two months before the first year warranty went out. I have one more year left. I see fluctuations here and there but definitely not extreme as before (max temp was at 33 watts and fluxes 5-10 watts after only 10 minutes in on cold start.) I was told not to set it at max watts to avoid damage to the heater. I am following that rule. I only leave my watt at 40-42 for 5 mins and then decrease to 30-32-34 watts depending on quality of flower. At 40-42 watts heat soaked for about 15 minutes would be appropriate for dabbing. If you don't let it soak, it will waste your dab. I can guarantee that.
 

Joe Deer

New Member
Hey guys, new here. I came to say that I tried the Sublimator at the Cannafest 2014 expo in Prague and the experience was far beyond what I expected. I will start by saying that I am in no way a vapo expert but I tried several models past weekend and none of them was any close to the Sublimator. Of course me and my group thought it was too expensive when we heard the prize but then you hit it... and you know. You know this is the one. I said if I had the kind of money on me at the time I would be emptying my pockets real qucik even if it was all the money I had and this is what I promised to the lovely girls at their stand, too. Honestly, after trying this, I have lost all interest in trying anything else. My respect to the inventor/manufacturer. Now I just have to figure out where to get 750€.

Joe. D
 
Joe Deer,
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hassan

Connoisseur
@Joe Deer 750 Euros? I hope that's for the entire rig, not that the price is justified even then.

I recommend the Adapt-a-Bong kits and using your own glass, or buying glass; it'll be better quality.

@jrk4d why did JCat do away with the Sub?

The only negative about the sub is the unreliability and eventual death of the wattage; you shouldn't have to deal with things like that when you drop an arm and a leg on a device.

It is still the best vaporization device I have ever used, and possibly that exists.

And as for @herbivore21, there was actually a thread in the very beginning that eventually was locked because of the way people expressed themselves regarding the use of a term alluding to sublimation; Enrico's way to get around the flak was to claim it was named because of how sublime the high is.
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
@Joe Deer 750 Euros? I hope that's for the entire rig, not that the price is justified even then.

I recommend the Adapt-a-Bong kits and using your own glass, or buying glass; it'll be better quality.

@jrk4d why did JCat do away with the Sub?

The only negative about the sub is the unreliability and eventual death of the wattage; you shouldn't have to deal with things like that when you drop an arm and a leg on a device.

It is still the best vaporization device I have ever used, and possibly that exists.

And as for @herbivore21, there was actually a thread in the very beginning that eventually was locked because of the way people expressed themselves regarding the use of a term alluding to sublimation; Enrico's way to get around the flak was to claim it was named because of how sublime the high is.
Do the xlr 2.0's drop wattage in the same way????
 
herbivore21,

hassan

Connoisseur
Haven't heard any credible feedback, good or bad, regarding the XLR; that thread never really got traction.
 
hassan,

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Same, I can't seem to see it having had this issue for any of the XLR 2.0 users. I am hoping this is resolved. Still, I am qualified and able to repair the electronics in this device myself so have no concerns so long as everything holds together except the dimmer and PSU. A replacement PSU for the xlr being a 36v dc is cheap as chips online ($25 or so).

The monkey controller is likely gonna be a variable resistor dimmer, a timer module and a pcb inside the housing with the leds.

I have to say, it is frustrating that people have had problems with all of the big 3 high end plug in vapes (Evo/Herbie/Sub). Still, given the problems people are having in the evo thread, and whips not being for me, the sub was a no brainer!
 
herbivore21,

CheeseSandwich

Well-Known Member
FWIW...I have had my timer box Sub (warranty replacement for my Sub 1.0) for a like a year and it's working perfect still. No wattage drop or buzzing from the timer box. It hasn't seen any use in a few months but It was used all day prior to then. I always just over rode the timer, it's a pain in the ass.
 
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CheeseSandwich,

CheeseSandwich

Well-Known Member
Hey @CheeseSandwich

How come you haven't been using it?

I got a few other vapes after the Sub and like them more. I got a Lotus just before Xmas last year and used that ALOT until I got my Versa Infinity then that took over:tup:. I hadn't personally used it in a long while, I had lent my Sublimator to friends not long after I got it as a warranty replacement. Got it back recently and fired it up once but honestly I just wasn't into it. :2c: It's retired I guess:myday:
 

jrk4d

Well-Known Member
hey sorry to ask a question that been covered, but the info is buried pretty deep in this thread.. What are people doing once their sub starts losing power? I can crank mine up to full power and heat soak like crazy and a good size dab WILL drip into my atomizer. It makes my flowers stick to the screen and makes unloading a pain in the ass. are most ppl doing their own mods? I believe the warranties are not nontransferable. Best to send it back and pay them to fix it? I don't have any formal electrical experience but can usually figure most electronics out. Is this too big a mod for someone without actual advanced electrical experience?

@hassan I cannot speak for Jcat on why he actually got rid of his sub. All I can say is I think VAS may have something to do with it.. ;) If I had to guess, I would imagine his power was at the very beginning stages of decay. Still works and is in excellent condition. There are no moving parts in this and its basically stainless/ceramic/wire.. So I wouldn't think any fix would be complicated, just something he was not interested in dealing with. He also has lots of other fun vapes to keep him entertained.

The sub 1.0 is an EXTREMELY unrefined vape. Enrico found a new concept of cannabis intake, and this is the first functional unit. Its hot, dangerous, and honestly not pretty. No sub owner cares at all because this thing is about PERFORMANCE!!!! I mean think ppl's reaction when they see a sub, evo, or herbie. the sub looks like an engineering students science project. The evo is lightweight, compact, and when the hydratube is added, looks simply like a very high end vape. Herbie is $700+, looks very stealthy when closed, and LOOKS very high end.

I think the reason the sub hasn't taken over is because of its lack of refinement. replicate the subs results without the risk of breaking every glass piece in which it sits. In order to get the most out of your sub, you really need the full kit it seems. collecting sublimate with a sub buddy or other reclaimer makes your bong look like a crazy science contraption. Plus makes it very vulnerable to tipping. Some slick looking housing to keep most of the apollo cool to the touch wouldn't hurt either. I mean thats basically why the sub looks bizarre. It is basically a vape without a shell, no?

So for the time being, sub users I feel are for the combusters.. This will satisfy any cloud chaser. End Of story. The evo is for the tasters(even thought IMHO about 25% conduction 75% convection produces the most intense flavor.) I haven't tried a cloud myself, but that all i hear talk of is the pure flavor. The herbie really is for the bosses out there. Its the entire package but doesn't have the flash extraction potential of the sub or even the evo.
 
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jrk4d,

grokit

well-worn member
I believe that planet vape services the subs that weren't purchased from sublimator directly.
 
grokit,

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
So I got my xlr 2.0, and after initial heat off the fucking dabmaster is stuck in the atomizer. UGH. Cannot use the device at all and no idea how to get these things unstuck. Any ideas here?
 
herbivore21,

canj00digit?

All my days in a daze...
Man, that sucks!

I found this reference in this review, this guy says he just lets it cool down completely when stuck and it comes apart:

"I heat up the heater and atomizer together. I also let them cool down together. Once in a while I won’t be able to separate the heater from the atomizer while they’re hot. It’s a bummer, but I can still use oils with a stuck Sublimator. To separate a stuck Sublimator I’ll let it cool down, separate the heater and atomizer (comes apart easy when cool), then reseat them before heating them back up together."
http://www.vaporreviewblog.com/sublimator-review-incredible-power-price/
 
canj00digit?,

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Man, that sucks!

I found this reference in this review, this guy says he just lets it cool down completely when stuck and it comes apart:

"I heat up the heater and atomizer together. I also let them cool down together. Once in a while I won’t be able to separate the heater from the atomizer while they’re hot. It’s a bummer, but I can still use oils with a stuck Sublimator. To separate a stuck Sublimator I’ll let it cool down, separate the heater and atomizer (comes apart easy when cool), then reseat them before heating them back up together."
http://www.vaporreviewblog.com/sublimator-review-incredible-power-price/
Read this, have cooled it down completely, still no dice!

Thing is rock solid, there is nowhere for me to grab it with plyers or anything to separate them without damaging it. The handle on the atomizer is too big and does not have the tensile strength to be used to separate the two. I am hoping it was a mistake of mine to heat the atomizer and heater together and that this is not a normal occurrence!!! I have absolutely no idea how to get this fucker separated.

I have absolutely cut the shit out of my hands with this thing. The handle, tool and atomizer each have sharp edges!
 

canj00digit?

All my days in a daze...
Damn bro sounds like a nightmare experience so far.
Can't believe the components still have sharp edges in the newest units.:(

You'll get it apart and it'll rip your head off and you'll forget all about this.

Hopefully someone here comes along with some advice!:hmm:

Post by Enrico

y
if they ever get stuck together (apollo and atomizer) a couple firm hits with your dabber should unstuck em!!(this only happen to excessive dabbers...this is why i came up with the titan hammer

But he seems to be more referring to being stuck from oil. Hmmm.


-this post suggests giving it a few taps

-this post recommends torching the atomizer to expand it so they comes apart.
 
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canj00digit?,
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herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Post by Enrico



But he seems to be more referring to being stuck from oil. Hmmm.


-this post suggests giving it a few taps

-this post recommends torching the atomizer to expand it so they comes apart.
Cheers brother, torching the christ out of the atomizer seemed to do the trick, just fell off!

Issue is definitely related to atomizer not being as hot as the heater! Lesson learnt!
 
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