Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by RastaBuddhaTao, Dec 31, 2016.
I am having the same problem.
I just registered as a US citizen living in Main, hopefully I can change my country and address later.
And maybe even learn to spell Maine correctly!?
Hahaha my cover is blown, next time i'll pick a state a can spell correctly.
I'm on the list but didn't get the email. Is there a good word or email to search my spam folder?
"Splinter wait list"
You can w/l the new stem here. If you do, it's BOGO.
Its a bug. Ryan is currently looking at it to get it solved.
I had a feeling this might happen, was really hoping it would not... I am looking into forwarding services as we speak I almost dont even care how much it will cost.
Also is this where we add a splinter to cart to pay our place in line? I guess we select April discount...
Sorry guys tried reading through the thread a bit. This has me interested since I have a few mods around getting no use, plus the wood looks great and so does the Splinter. I had a few questions I am hoping you can answer :
What wattage have you been using for those that have one ? (I am not a huge fan of temp mode really so wattage is most likely what I'd stick with, only bc I can never find the perfect setting.)
Around how much can you pack in a oven and around how many hits are averaged per packing ?
Will this device come in Walnut ?
Spoke to Ryan and all waitlist orders WILL get be able to get a splinter regardless of location. The problem with not being able to sign up for the members section outside of the US is a known bug and is currently being looked at. After the waitlist is completed is when the store will go domestic only, with vapefiend handling EU.
Ahh glad to hear the international orders will still go out!
So is current waitlist expecting maybe a 4 to 6 wait roughly?
I apologize about that bit of misinformation, I misunderstood him.
Also yes, it is expected to be around 4-6 weeks before he gets the waitlist completed.
I ran mine at 40w when using wattage mode. That's on an eVic Primo running arctic fox.
It's a standard 18mm male GonG stem with a basket screen, same as a Milaana. I think it's about 0.07. You can push the basket screen deeper into the GonG joint which would increase the bowl size.
Hits per pack depends on material, how you draw and how you heat. I'm using TC mode and tend to cache my bowls in about 2.5 hits @ 200°c (relative to my TCR settings). Medium brown avb.
Edit: There are walnut splinters but I don't know how many would be available.
Ty buddy does the heating element ever need to be replaced ? Wonder if you get a cloud evo screen in there for larger loads or maybe it’s to big . Someone try it please
It's not user replaceable so you definitely don't want to burn it out or you'll need to send it back to RBT for repair. I think it's max is 50w or 60w and I've found 40w to be plenty.
Been wondering the same myself.
My friends and I use about 27. Max of around 32.
Depends on the mouthpiece but used ELB's for a long time. Have sinced moved on. I continue to change it up.
So I've been using the J-Hook Cruise mode combo the majority of my seshes, it is just such a fun, potent, flavorful experience. And I think I just dialed in the perfect sweetspot.
I did a side by side comparison of the LSV to the Splinter and it's actually close. My friend lives by his lsv and said the splinter was pretty close.
At 405 degrees on cruise mode with a 10+ second preheat + a long draw = absolutely massive cloud and still super flavorful vapor. I can believe how I'm keeping this flavor with this large of a cloud. No complaints from me, aside from sometimes feeling harsh with short stems, this thing is such a beast.
Thanks for updating us you (and rbt) have just made my day
@Justpassedu: I usually set mine to 25W for the first few hits, then a few at 27W and I finish at 30W. I've recently done some experiments at 20W, and I can finish a load and get the ABV pretty dark without changing. 40W would be excessive with my mod (Joyetech Cuboid 150W) and I can easily reach combustion if I set it that high. I've tested up to 50W, where combustion is readily available and hard to avoid, really.
The heater is robust so damaging it is unlikely in any sane normal use. Box mods tend to have a protection timeout of 10 or 15 seconds, so even an accidental button press won't do any harm. Incidentally, that timeout is a bit limiting for the Splinter, so I recommend using firmware that lets you increase it. Mine is usually set at 20 or 30 seconds, and for experiments I'll put it up to 60 seconds.
I've been able to circumvent the 10 second cutoffs on my mods pretty easily by just pulsing the button for a split second in the middle of my draw. The quick release and push back of the button is enough to reset the timer and finish off a good draw. If I really want to I can adjust the cutoff timer on one of my DNA mods to allow it for a 30 second draw but I've really been loving using this thing with my hexohm so pulsing the button isn't a huge deal for me at least. It's pretty much the same exact thing I had to do with my FF2 so the routines familiar for me at least
I realize the pulse method works too, but I keep forgetting about it because it rubs me the wrong way somehow. Besides what about the dangers of RSI for your music fingers, hmmmm?
If you read down at the bottom, these screens are supposedly 16 x 12mm. Will these fit the Splinter? or do they have to say 1/2"?
And they're 304 ss. Is that OK?
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