Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by RastaBuddhaTao, Dec 31, 2016.
Just spreading the word by quoting myself from the box mod thread in Ask FC...
Thanks for the suggestions. Ended up with wismec rx2/3, I like the option to use different battery amounts (though I'll probably stick with 2 for a while), and the form factor seems great. Was about $33+shipping.
damn that sucks from what i have read its normal, but when it happens to me im sure im gonna feel uneasy about it also.
Looking at the pictures RBT posted of the v1's i am not very fond of the air holes they dont look as clean as my splinter from the last batch but it might just be my eyes playing tricks with me.
That sounds like a good Arctic Fox mod if you're not keen on cruising with it.
@bossman the ability to install fj or af appealed to me for sure
Eds TNT stem.
Smoant naboo mod
Nice magic wand mate!
i love my splinter,but its so ugly.
I saw a post some time ago (either Reddit or here) from someone who reported a similar issue and recall the response being that the rattle will not affect how your Splinter operates. You can send it in to RBT for repair if it bothers you too much.
Thank you @an0maly ! Got the worry that it will somehow be damaged if something has come loose internally! Hopefully not and ill be able to continue using it. Just a bit dissapointing really, doesn't feel like the kind of thing one should expect from a device like this.
am i one of the few with a 4 hole splinter non z?
I have a 4 hole splinter
Considering a v1, I have an eleaf istick Pico75 mod, will I need special firmware? or is it good to go with the stock Pico (it has TCR mode)
Looks like I'll need a 510 heatsink to raise it up to clear the Pico's battery cap, hope that won't mess with the resistance.
Also where to find instructions for what TCR values/settings to start with?
Is the Splinter v1 introductory offer still on? ($59.50 & $79.50 packages)
I just tried the code. It appears to have ended 12/23
Was looking through your signature, are you still running rx 2/3 with splinter z? What are your thoughts on the mod? Which firmware are you running?
Yes. Currently I'm using the FJ firmware. It works fine for wattage mode. Lately I have been using it in Tubo mode with pwr set at 40.ow and the coil unlocked at .402. My M1 is set at 155. I am set on °F and start out at 270° for flavor (not real temps) and go up to 330° to 350° to get big hits and finish the load. I max out at 390°. I never combust at these settings tho I could at the 390 if I pushed it.
This all works out OK, but I am lusting for a DNA mod where I would expect to have better (more realistic) temp control.
I haven't used my Splinter much since getting the SplinterZ as with one mod swapping back and forth is a PITA. When/if I get a DNA mod I will dedicate one mod to each Splinter.
Oops, we're in the Splinter thread talking SplinterZ. Sorry folks, but these 2 threads are pretty incestuous...
Thanks, dang just missed it!
Edit: Actually it sounds like this pricing will be available again when these are in stock...
"We will be supporting a similar special offer through our retail partners worldwide once stock becomes available"
I'm trying to learn about this vape and have a question, I noticed the Splinter "takes the glass, screens, mouthpiece, heater and Mica from the Milaana" So if I used this on a basic mech mod would it pretty much replicate the operation and experience of the Milaana?
(something like this: https://www.fasttech.com/product/2226600)
No, you do not want to use a mechmod with the splinter. Mech mods are not at all for these types of devices. Strictly for ejuice users.
If you want the unregulated feel with the splinter get a SINGLE battery mod that has a bypass mode to get the full juice of the battery with the protection of a regulated device.
I emphasize single battery because most dual battery mods are going to be series devices which means double the voltage. Splinter isn't designed to run much above 4v and dual 18650s will be above 8v at full charge.
hell ya brother jk you are using tubo right?
Ok I already have a Pico 75w mod with bypass (and TCR)
The cells in wood mech mod I linked are parallel, you can see the connection layout in one of the photos, so voltage stays the same (4.2v at full charge) but capacity doubles.
Sorry, trying to understand this... If a mech mod is not for this at all, can someone tell me what other components are inside the Milanna besides a battery and switch?
Parallel also is a bad idea because you're doubling the amperage as well as capacity, which means higher wattage. If you want to replicate the Milaana, then it's just best to really replicate it by using a single cell because that's what it is.
There aren't other components with the Milaana as far as I know.
If you look at the copper pin on the bottom of the Splinter and the 510 connection and look how close they are together and how little the pin protrudes. That's the issue. Your positive (copper pin) and negative (510 connection) are THAT close. Those get bridged in anyway on a unregulated device and you are going to get a hard short, battery venting, and possibly worse. It's simply not worth the risk.
I do vape ejuice as I used to smoke tobacco as well. I use mech mods on the daily and really enjoy them but it just isn't safe at all to use in our use cases.
Damn...I wish there was a regulated mod that looked as nice as that mech mod.
Thanks for the further explanation, since there aren't other components inside the Milaana I don't see why putting a Splinter on a single cell mech mod wouldn't work the same way, but I agree it would be too dangerous because of the 510 connection and I wouldn't want to risk it either.
Fasttech had a few, including one that even had temp control, but only 35w, another was 50w, not sure either of them would have enough power though.
For some reason pretty much all the wood mods at FT are sold out, haven't checked anywhere else but I assume there's others out there somewhere. I went to FT to look at mech mods and saw the wood ones, I agree the Splinter would be cool on a nice wood mod!
In fact you are halving the load that each cell sees, technically doubling how much amps you could draw in theory, but in this case the load stays the same, so you are just demanding less from each cell, which is perfectly fine.
But otherwise parallel mech mods are a bad idea in general because you really need to know what you are doing and in what condition your cells are. If there is any voltage difference between the two (or more) cells when you insert them in the device, they will equalize and this can create conditions where either the charge current or the discharge current exceeds the cell ratings (or both)
Then if cells are not perfectly matched, that same equalization will happen during use and can place a lot of burden on the strong cell.
Last but not least, there is no mean to have per cell voltage taps in a parallel configuration, so per cell monitoring or balance charging is not possible. It's the case for instance on DNA75(C) mods that have multiple cells. This is why DNA250(C) mods are preferred if you want more than one cell (plus they can output much more power)
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