Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

[bossman]

I just had my best session so far with my Splinter and I really would like to get my ELeaf Invoke dialed in with sur_myevic or something comparable so I can use the Splinter more regularly have tcr options.

I followed up on the links some helpful folks suggested ten pages ago but I haven't been able to flash the mod successfully with the sur_myevic bin. I'm trying to use the eLeaf firmware and it doesn't like the bin.

Unrelatedly, @KeroZen I appreciate your savvy and willingness to share your perspective on the science, technology, and business of our vape hobby.

 

[KeroZen]

Thanks for the kind words, but I don't know much. Say I'm just curious by nature. But you see, before I started vaping, I never had to ask myself for instance whether inhaling the fumes from polyimide tape (aka Kapton) was harmful or not... and I wish I never had lol!

I vape because I'm convinced it's healthier for me. And with that decision it felt normal to ensure whether it was really true or not... so I started looking into materials safety etc.

Now for the software and electronics aspect, it's a passion I have since I was 10 years old, and it turned into my profession eventually (but I'm more of a software guy)

For your firmware flashing, browse to here and get NFE tools >> https://nfeteam.org/forum/forums/nfe-tools-releases/

Should work to flash sur_myevic. Otherwise grab the latest ArcticFox binary here >> https://nfeteam.org/forum/forums/arcticfox-releases/

I just checked and the Invoke is supported.

 

[bossman]

For your firmaware flashing, browse to here and get NFE tools >> https://nfeteam.org/forum/forums/nfe-tools-releases/

Should work to flash sur_evic. Otherwise grab the latest ArcticFox binary here >> https://nfeteam.org/forum/forums/arcticfox-releases/

I just checked and the Invoke is supported.

Three minutes after seeing this post and I now have the latest Arctic Fox successfully running on my eLeaf Invoke 220. Thanks so much @KeroZen!

Now I just need a primer/suggestions on TCR settings or any foxy profiles for the Splinter...

The Arctic Fox user guide is so tidy and organized. The layout on my mod is better looking now too. Thanks again for getting me on board.

Update: I manually tweaked one of the TCR profiles to TCR 175, 40W, 215°C and it's hitting nicely and less harsh than before the AF install.

I don't have the resistance locked and didn't before the new software and it's not written right on there like my TuboX. Should I be figuring out the Ohms setting and locking it?

 

[KeroZen]

Plug your device. Open NFE toolbox. Click "AF configuration".

I'd create two profiles. One in power mode and one in TC. Also disable the smart profile thing (Smart tab, set Smart Mode to off)

For the power profile just set a default power (30W is fine). You'll be able to adjust on the fly with your mod +/- buttons.

For the TC profile, you just change "mode" to "temp control" at the bottom. Then you check the "temperature dominant" box that appeared. Set also the power at the top to 30W. If your Splinter is cold, you might want also to check the lock icon right to the resistance edit box.

This is where it gets hazy as I'm still Splinter less, but next to "mode" you now have a "setup" button. That popups a new window. Check "use PI regulator". Then I don't know what works for the Splinter, try 1000 for P and 150 for I maybe. You'll have to adjust that using the live monitor later.

Close the window. Then below select "coil material" and try TFR316 or just SS 316. Finally set the temperature below to something low to start, say 140°C. Click "upload settings" to configure your device.

Then close the configurator and open "device monitor". There should be two traces for the live temperature and the set temperature. Set the Y axis to give you the maximum resolution so you can zoom on those two traces. Then hold the trigger button and see how much overshoot you get and if it manages to stabilize or not (when it does, you must see the "protection" message on the mod screen)

If it's too wild or overshoots too much you'll need to tweak the PI parameters from the previous step... but it's an art really. Hopefully someone will give you better numbers. Good luck!

Alternatively you could chose "TCR" for coil material and enter a value there, say 190 or something. @HerbieVonVapster to the rescue!

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

Is there other data the dna c box reads?
It has chip and room temperature readings but not sure where it pulls the data from? Replay does a goood job of repeating the hit if you use same draw speed. If you vary the draw rate you get more spikes and drop in the temperature range than in TC mode.

At this point not sure what is better I guess if want the same hit each time and like to use the same breath rate reply be better option.

If you vary you breath like to scale temperature up then tc mode might be the better choice.

Keeping a open mind on replay really trying find the benefit it offers over tc other than ease of setup?

@bossman try 155 tcr. Not using AF and away from home with crappy cell service.
I suggest first try the stock SS 316 or 316L in AF if they don’t work I will try post my splinter cvs file that you can import in AF.

 

[bossman]

Thanks guys! I bumped a stock 316L to 40W and got huge clouds at 220°C but felt like I needed to draw medium-hard or it'd get too hot just sipping.

Admittedly 428° is hot for the bent Tubo X stem I was using. I'll save this preset for use with water.

Super positive outing and I'm grateful for the help today.

 

[b0]

Thanks guys! I bumped a stock 316L to 40W and got huge clouds at 220°C but felt like I needed to draw medium-hard or it'd get too hot just sipping.

Admittedly 428° is hot for the bent Tubo X stem I was using. I'll save this preset for use with water.

Super positive outing and I'm grateful for the help today.

With my DNA 250c I'm using a TCR of 150 (0,0015 for DNA mods) preheat at 55w until 150º and then 45w until reaching temp. I can vape from 175ºC for pure flavor with wispy vapor to 220ºC for dark chocolate ABV if needed/wanted (I usually stop a bit lower)

Totally loving my device, havent touch any other vapes since I got my Splinter

 

[almost there]

Has anyone ever gotten an “OFF” warning when firing the splinter using TC on a DNA device? I get that periodically and it’s driving me nuts, when this happens I have to switch VW which is fine but I just want to know what the warning means

 

[KeroZen]

I think it kicks out of TC because the resistance reading changed too much vs what it expects. Try locking or not locking. Also clean the 510 threads and pin on both sides. Screw the atty more firmly or less firmly... Run atomizer analyzer and check if you have unstable readings.

 

[Summer]

Ryan at the Outlaw Music Festival yesterday:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BoFb6ECFqnn/

 

[Vapor_Tomahawk]

I have two 1st gen Splinters and both of then at almost the same time came unglued from the fitting. The wood exterior twists and grinds around the metal. I haven't had time to go through the posts, but has anyone else experienced this and what should I do?

 

[Summer]

@Vapor_Tomahawk, yes, others have experienced this. I don't know if anyone has repaired it themselves so wait for others to reply. All I know is that they have sent it back to RBT to be repaired. Because the adhesion is tentative between the wood & base, you should rarely be removing the Splinter from the mod nor overtightening (tight, but not overtight). Some are using 510 heat sinks if they remove the Splinter from their mod often so this doesn't happen. Stay tuned for further input.

BTW, RBT is located in upstate NY so it should be a rather fast turnaround. You just have to contact him through his website's contact page, & check the warranty page, as I might have seen a RMA form there. Don't recall.

 

[almost there]

I have two 1st gen Splinters and both of then at almost the same time came unglued from the fitting. The wood exterior twists and grinds around the metal. I haven't had time to go through the posts, but has anyone else experienced this and what should I do?

that happened to my OG splinter. I sent it back and Ryan replaced it with a production unit. I would have preferred if he repaired it like we discussed but swapping them seems more practical. Some of the updated materials might not fit the same.

 

[Summer]

I have a question for those not a member of Instagram. I provided this link a couple of posts up:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BoFb6ECFqnn/

Can you guys, who are not logged in to IG, see the pic? I can't tell 'cause I'm always automatically logged in. I'm using it on a computer &, as such, IG is rudimentary at best, think antiquated DOS. So there's no place to sign out.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

Can you guys, who are not logged in to IG, see the pic? I can't tell 'cause I'm always automatically logged in. I'm using it on a computer &, as such, IG is rudimentary at best, think antiquated DOS. So there's no place to sign out.

I can see the picture

 

[Summer]

I can see the picture

Thanks!

 

[Hackerman]

I have a question for those not a member of Instagram. I provided this link a couple of posts up:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BoFb6ECFqnn/

Can you guys, who are not logged in to IG, see the pic? I can't tell 'cause I'm always automatically logged in. I'm using it on a computer &, as such, IG is rudimentary at best, think antiquated DOS. So there's no place to sign out.

I am not a member on IG and can never seem to navigate it at all. LOL And... I can see the picture.

 

[Hippie]

We can see pics and posts but need to log in to see their instagram highlights and livecasts.

 

[Hogni]

Just FYI I got a msg from Ryan regarding my question on exotics and amount of air intakes.
I told him that I'm not doing HUGE rips natively.

"Yes, I would recommend 2 holes for your usage pattern. The 2 is the most practical for most situations as the 4 really shines with really big rips that you need big airflow to be able to keep up with the heater at higher wattage.

What is listed on the site is all the exotics that were made from a test run. Moving forward runs will be limited to 3-4 woods that are good to work with. The first run we did a large number of woods and many are hard to work with and will not be continued... so what is on the www is the most exotic we will have"

It's a pitty. I'm not very excited about the current exotics. Grains and colours are a bit boring, purple heart too...mmh...red for my liking? Guess I'll go with wenge....

 

[Doktor Dub]

It's a pitty. I'm not very excited about the current exotics. Grains and colours are a bit boring, purple heart too...mmh...red for my liking? Guess I'll go with wenge....

once you got it, you will not think about wood but about clouds i hope you ll like it, grows more and more on me. It s all i hoped the GH would be..... i love the speed and the battery life.

 

[pakalolo]

I have two 1st gen Splinters and both of then at almost the same time came unglued from the fitting. The wood exterior twists and grinds around the metal. I haven't had time to go through the posts, but has anyone else experienced this and what should I do?

You can fix this yourself: run a bead of Krazy Glue or similar cyanoacrylate glue around the base where it has separated, then press together for 30 seconds or so. Don't lift or twist it. That's all it takes. This area does not get hot and is nowhere near the air path, so it's quite safe to do this.

 

[Hogni]

I was just waiting 3 months more for delivery of my Splinter in hope to get an exotic, maybe a nice burl, I really like much (am pretty picky on that). Hope performance of the wenge compensates the - little - lack off appearance.

 

[bossman]

I've been enjoying my Splinter more now that I'm up and running with Arctic Fox on my eLeaf Invoke.

How do guys think the Splinter stacks up on efficiency? While I initially thought it was less efficient than some of my other dry herb vapes I'm thinking now that I had efficiency conflated with bowl size.

My other vapes (Fury 2, Solo II, vapcap, Lil Bud) start with a smaller bowl so for a solo session I'm still learning how to make the most of the Splinter. To this point where it shines is with my D020 when I'm ready to commit to a decent sized bowl.

I like not needing a basket screen for that setup too since the glass can just stay in the bubbler.

 

[TheRobbo]

About 20% of the time I use my Splinter, it says, "Atomizer Short". Then, I have to unscrew it and screw it back on. Then, sometimes it works and sometimes it says, "Atomizer Short" again. Eventually, it always works again.

Is that a bad thing?

I had the same issue early on, exactly the same but I knew it couldn't be the splinter... and probably not the mod. How could it be if it worked in wattage mode, right?
I had a suugested ohms and tcr number I got from redit dialed in and got the same problem. I used it in the dark and noticed a very faint glow from the heater and knew there was something really wrong.
First I changed, I let the mod specify the resistance wich was .245 I read somewhere the FJ firmware I am running reads the ohms a bit high so had lowered this previously, but locked in what was there after doing a zero all.

Then I started going through tcr choices, didn't know weather to go up or down so just picked one and started going up by 5 at a time... after a few I got bored and jumped to tcr190 was previously around the 150 mark I think I cant remember... but...

bam!

It started working flawlessly its totally fucking amazing now and hasn't skipped a beat since with zero attomizer low warnings

Now I can go from the 180c flavor deliciousness to the absolutely face melting power of 215/220
This is all on a wismec 2/3 with the tubo software (still feel a little weird using it but gotta give fj big ups for being cool... and delivering a rock solid platform)
And the settings are
Resistance locked at 0.245
TCR187 (I dialled it back a few after a couple of bowls)
Max power 50w

I use cruise but still turn it off before the end of the hit, just like the Milaana

Hope this helps dude try my settings or just play around with the settings, lock your resistance when the splinter is stone cold so the mod has the correct constant to calculate the resistance change
It might work but then ymmv, @AJS has the same mod as me and im pretty sure completely different settings

 

[SloJimFizz]

Has anyone ever gotten an “OFF” warning when firing the splinter using TC on a DNA device? I get that periodically and it’s driving me nuts, when this happens I have to switch VW which is fine but I just want to know what the warning means

That was what I've battled with the most with dna so far. Most times when this happens, it has changed my locked resistance settings, to the live settings. I usually have to switch profiles to reset it. Pita when it does that. And when returning to a profile with a locked ohm reading, I say no, to the new coil question. Cause it should be using my locked setting.
I'm much preferring the Evic mini that I've dialed in FJs tubo software, the one that says Tubo on the screen in the upper left. Tcr with the m1 and m2 etc aren't even an option on this version. Just using the Tubos software and dialing in the Spinters resistance. .230 for mine.
That's my preference over Arctic Fox and DNA75 right now. The cruise and temp changing while cruising add a lot. Imo