Discontinued The RBT Milaana (unregulated single 18650)

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hweezi

formally cwheezy
hoXdINV.jpg


Loving the tasty rips while using some full melt with my Mi. Made it a little easier to load without getting hemp fibre stuck to everything.

It's just a nano basket for those wondering. fits nicely.
 

beiberhole69

Sexual Maven
Hmmmm... I've had my unit get warmed up but it's definitely cooler overall than my other vapes (nano, air) and has never really been HOT to the touch. Even the glass. In fact, I'd probably say that's maybe one of the Milaana's best selling points to me. Is no more burning myself with hot glass needing to stir or w/e
 

b0

Cloudy...
I used Burt's Beeswax lip balm with good effect. It's a little softer than pure beeswax and has a little peppermint oil in it as well. I didn't sand Millie so much as polished her first with ultrafine wet and dry paper (1200, 1500, and 2000). The beeswax darkened her slightly which I like. No expert on this, but I did this years ago to my MFLB and it still looks good (not that I've used it in a long long time). Multiple light coats over a few days is probably best and of course, the obligatory warning: your mileage may vary. ;)

So beeswax is the way to go then, would any of this be a good option?:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-Pure-...623593?hash=item21173a64a9:g:7QsAAMXQC-tS~otd

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pure-Bees...b76f89&pid=100010&rk=2&rkt=24&sd=142123623593


Also, before aplying it should I do prepare the wood or something? Any tips/links to how to do it properly? Should I sand/polish her before aplying the wax? Thanks guys, I'm a total noob about wood. All the help is really apreciated :)
 

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
So beeswax is the way to go then, would any of this be a good option?:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-Pure-...623593?hash=item21173a64a9:g:7QsAAMXQC-tS~otd

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pure-Beeswax-Furniture-Polish-100g-200g/221531415708?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid=555012&algo=PW.MBE&ao=2&asc=20140221143405&meid=de28a019fa8b4ac18808793a37b76f89&pid=100010&rk=2&rkt=24&sd=142123623593


Also, before aplying it should I do prepare the wood or something? Any tips/links to how to do it properly? Should I sand/polish her before aplying the wax? Thanks guys, I'm a total noob about wood. All the help is really apreciated :)
Both look good as long as they are 100% beeswax.

As far as prep get some super fine sand paper and rub her over if you don't feel your unit is smooth enough for the touch...make sure to rub with the grain

Heat the milaana with a hair dryer to get the wood to take the wax easier...apply a few coats and wipe off excess with a rag.

You can also use dyes/food coloring to change the color of the wood before applying the wax.

I am an amateur though...feel I should note that.

@beiberhole69 not HOT to the touch...but defiantly warm to very warm to the touch.. .glass also...if I'm pushing a battery and heat soaking the stem comes out hot, not hot potato hot...but still hot.
 

b0

Cloudy...
Both look good as long as they are 100% beeswax.

As far as prep get some super fine sand paper and rub her over if you don't feel your unit is smooth enough for the touch...make sure to rub with the grain

Heat the milaana with a hair dryer to get the wood to take the wax easier...apply a few coats and wipe off excess with a rag.

You can also use dyes/food coloring to change the color of the wood before applying the wax.

I am an amateur though...feel I should note that.

@beiberhole69 not HOT to the touch...but defiantly warm to very warm to the touch.. .glass also...if I'm pushing a battery and heat soaking the stem comes out hot, not hot potato hot...but still hot.

Cool, will do exactly as you say! Any grit recommendations for polishing? I will order everything tonight, Milaana has become my favourite vape and I want to take care of my girl as good as I can!

When you say to rub it with the grain, you mean following the lines of the wood right?
 

CaptVapor

Well-Known Member
Hey kids, just got a D020-d and ran the Milaana through it for the first time. A little underwhelmed!

I give it a decent preheat and then place it on the m2m, start inhaling and I'll see clouds start forming but then go away. It's as if my drawing is cooling the heater down to a point where it can't keep up - and this is on a fresh battery, mind you.

I thought maybe the load was small and I spent it but nope. Take the Mi out, preheat again, repeat .... clouds.

This doesn't seem to be consistent with many of the reports here about how great Milaana is through water!
 
CaptVapor,

AJS

Calm Consistency
My perfect companion vape for milaana or vice versa is the junior brick or vapman...
+1 for Milaana / Vapman!

Most of the time I expect top notchoice performance from cold...which ain't always the case.
Yeah unless you start with a reeaaaal slow, hot draw, it's hard to get perfect performance off a half bowl that has cooled off. Good thing there's no wait for hit #2 ;)


I've had a Milaana for several months now, and since then I haven't used a single one of my other vapes once. I've gone though many configurations and my favorite is the long stem, with the screen basket style. I find the basket style is better for smaller loads, and the flavor with the long stem is awesome. While the short stem provides better feedback, is more stealth, and easier to carry, there's nothing better IMO than a perfectly dialed in long stem
I agree 100%. Pretty much absolute same for me, word for word.

Been putting the Milaana on hold for a bit as I experiment with my newly acquired Grasshopper for a few days, and I'm already excited to get back to it. I think this little break from it is going to help me re-appreciate it again.

If anyone wants a comparison, feel free to message me :)

Edit: @WakeAndVape
feel like it did used to get hotter faster before I sent it in to get the glass female re-glued...but it could also be in myour head.

I think the lower the battery life the hotter it gets. Also if you do tons of back to back hits. Normally mine stays coolish - warm but I've definitely gotten it hot when I pushed it. I don't check often though, but i think I'd notice it just feeling the unit and swapping batts and stuff.
 
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HD Springer

Well-Known Member
This heat convo is a little bit refreshing. I too get the hot threaded rod problem from time to time. One thing that's helped the most is I've been placing the battery pos. side down. This for the most part has cured mi. mi issues.

My mi gets totally heat soaked while I'm using her. The glass gets way too hot to handle. It won't blister me but it's very uncomfortable. I feel me and @KeroZen probably run our "sessions" pretty damn close to each others. I'm usually getting around 20 hits a load. Of course I take a bit of a mi break to hit my PP VC. Then I will return to the mi session after I run 1 load through the vc. It always takes a few seconds to get the mi load back to producing monster hits.

I've always quietly wondered if the cooler running units weren't draining power somewhere else. I know for sure when I'm loosing power to battery compartment that my heater suffers from it. Big time.

The very fact that the Milaana has been putting in this much work without any huge hiccups is awesome.
 

TheRobbo

Well-Known Member
I think there is truth in what both of you are saying.

There can be contact problems in that post when it unscrews even partly, I experienced it first hand the day it didn't heat at all and it was fixed by just screwing the post counter-clockwise fully. Note that I don't get grime on mine but I imagine it must not be good either...

But I'm also obviously doing way longer sessions than you guys with my unit, with my 20 to 30++ hits per bowl technique. And really, over time everything gets hot, including the trigger button, the copper tab and the post (as well as the GonG, both male and female parts, the wood body, and even the cell itself)

I think it's normal: think about it, copper is an excellent heat conductor. And we have a simple copper circuit directly connected to the two heater electrodes, which themselves conduct heat directly from the nearby mesh. Copper is used in high quality heatsinks for CPUs as well as for heat pipes on motherboards. To me it makes sense that heat would conduct from the heater to basically everywhere else in the circuit over time.

Now as @BadDog No said, if it gets hot just after a few hits, then yes maybe it's suspicious?
Yep I have had the heat conduct into the button from an extra long sesssion and glass become almost burning hot (makes it hard to wrap fingers round to stir). But never noticed more than a tiny bit in the copper and brass. It is perfectly reasonable that every part of a heating circuit will conduct heat eventually but mine was noticeably hot not just warm. Havent had any extra long sessions since the fix because its just not necessary as either the load is cashed or I'm done before anything gets warmed! When I get re stocked I'll do a few back to back to in the name of science :science: and report back!

My copper battery lid gets warm while in use too.

Is this indicative of an issue?

I feel like it did used to get hotter faster before I sent it in to get the glass female re-glued...but it could also be in myour head.

Cleaned the posts that had a little dirt on them as @TheRobbo suggested but it didn't make the change night and day

Is the lid supposed to get warm at all? Or am I just trippin?

I think as @KeroZen mentioned depending on usage a little warmth conducted from a well heat soaked body is probably gonna happen, but it will be proportionate to body temp.
Now if your not leaning on the power for an extended session like Kero or going back to back and it warms Or if it gets hotter than the heat soak/faster... then yes you have a problem!

This heat convo is a little bit refreshing. I too get the hot threaded rod problem from time to time. One thing that's helped the most is I've been placing the battery pos. side down. This for the most part has cured mi. mi issues.

My mi gets totally heat soaked while I'm using her. The glass gets way too hot to handle. It won't blister me but it's very uncomfortable. I feel me and @KeroZen probably run our "sessions" pretty damn close to each others. I'm usually getting around 20 hits a load. Of course I take a bit of a mi break to hit my PP VC. Then I will return to the mi session after I run 1 load through the vc. It always takes a few seconds to get the mi load back to producing monster hits.

I've always quietly wondered if the cooler running units weren't draining power somewhere else. I know for sure when I'm loosing power to battery compartment that my heater suffers from it. Big time.

The very fact that the Milaana has been putting in this much work without any huge hiccups is awesome.

Do you think putting the battery in one way or another changes the angle of the copper tab enough to not contact the brass knob well causing HR? I know before I dropped my unit and squashed the inner spring a little bit my tab wouldn't contact the bat at all if put in + side down!
 

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
@AJS it's the third hit for me...but as I've said before, maybe some new batteries are in order...

Such is life!
Cool, will do exactly as you say! Any grit recommendations for polishing? I will order everything tonight, Milaana has become my favourite vape and I want to take care of my girl as good as I can!

When you say to rub it with the grain, you mean following the lines of the wood right?
Yea following the lines...going across can cause unsightly scratches.

As far as grit...get the finest possible. I've heard a paper bag is like super fine sandpaper...

If it has rough areas, get something a little more coarse.

Also run the whole length of the side when sanding to keep the surface even

Google is my source from when I did mine btw.

258c8pv.jpg
 
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BadDog No

Well-Known Member
Big fan of minimalist Milaana sanding here. Maybe because mine is a transition model I didn't want to in any way change it's character except to try and simulate decades of honest wear and care. A well worn shovel handle polished by leather gloves and sweat was pretty much my goal, hence my decision to go with ultrafine wet/dry finishing papers. Of course what I got was Steam Punk coffee table. What happens is that all the curved surfaces really come alive and the end grain starts to pop. I might have started out with 1000 grit or 1200 and well worn at that. In between grades I use a "nearly dry" damp sponge to gently moisten the surface. This brings up the wood fiber after half an hour or so and you can sand it down again. Get to 2000 and you're seriously polished, but because a beeswax based finish just "glows" rather than reflects like poly, the whole effect is quite subdued. I need pictures, I know, I'm a crazy stoned old man. It's hard to keep up with modern technology and I'm half Luddite (my father's side) anyway. ;) Oh and if you haven't purchased any wax yet, remember that all the log manufacturers have their own premixed beeswax based finish/reconditioner that they swear by. Have fun personalizing your Milaana!
 

jojo monkey

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Since this page is back to wood. I've posted this before, but this stuff is easy and I can get it for $11 shipped. It is a "blend of linseed oil & beeswax that is polymerized" - all food grade. The oil will bring out the color and the wax will protect it. A tiny drop on an old t-shirt will do it. I'd do a few coats. The smell fades in a week or so.

http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_an...ents/Tried_and_True_Original_Wood_Finish.html

http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/original-wood-finish/

You can use it on your wood cutting boards too.

I would only sand to 180-220 so the oil can soak. Rub piece of a paper bag between the coats to burnish.

It is cool to see people customize their vapes. I can't say too many other portables allow for that.

@BadDog No - Pics Please!
 

BadDog No

Well-Known Member
All this wood care feels way over my head. But I really wanna learn so I can take good care of mil. So baddog you think we can use the stuff log people make safely?
Sure, why not? Milaana is basically a portable log. I used Burt's Bees wax lip balm because I had some around but probably some form of log butter is even better. Linseed oil is not a smell I'm fond of, but I'm sure it works great too and eventually the smell goes away. Have fun!
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
All this wood care feels way over my head. But I really wanna learn so I can take good care of mil. So baddog you think we can use the stuff log people make safely?

I've only used Triihouse chapstick style wax butter, and only once or twice on one Mi and one Zion that were a bit rough in particular. It definitely works fine, as other log butters will, but its also not really necessary imo. So if it feels over your head don't worry about it, absolutely fine to do nothing at all, oils from your hand actually do a decent job naturally over time too :2c::peace:
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Is RBT still selling the Milaana from his website or do you have to go to a third party vendor?

Looks like I might need to have one of these. Any discounts anywhere?

He posted about it a few pages ago, only third party retailers again for now, it'll be back on the website again for the next batch in a while
 
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mrbonsai420

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Hey kids, just got a D020-d and ran the Milaana through it for the first time. A little underwhelmed!

I give it a decent preheat and then place it on the m2m, start inhaling and I'll see clouds start forming but then go away. It's as if my drawing is cooling the heater down to a point where it can't keep up - and this is on a fresh battery, mind you.

I thought maybe the load was small and I spent it but nope. Take the Mi out, preheat again, repeat .... clouds.

This doesn't seem to be consistent with many of the reports here about how great Milaana is through water!


If done correctly on a fresh battery, with a full bowl you should not be able to overpower the heater. It should combust if you hammer on for that long and draw that hard with a fresh battery on all 3 of the Mi's I have used EXCEPT for my cold unit that was replaced. It couldn't brown a bowl dry either though.
Try a finer grind and "suck" your load into the stem. Make sure you get it covering the bottom and at least 1/8" deep, don't be too skimpy ;).

Preheat for 4-5 seconds and then start your draw. Steady draw any speed until you see the vapor then let off but keep pulling, this is when you really get the bulk of your vapor , After letting off. This is my technique, I rarely feather the button anymore.
 

HD Springer

Well-Known Member
If done correctly on a fresh battery, with a full bowl you should not be able to overpower the heater. It should combust if you hammer on for that long and draw that hard with a fresh battery on all 3 of the Mi's I have used EXCEPT for my cold unit that was replaced. It couldn't brown a bowl dry either though.
Try a finer grind and "suck" your load into the stem. Make sure you get it covering the bottom and at least 1/8" deep, don't be too skimpy ;).

Preheat for 4-5 seconds and then start your draw. Steady draw any speed until you see the vapor then let off but keep pulling, this is when you really get the bulk of your vapor , After letting off. This is my technique, I rarely feather the button anymore.



What I absolutly love about the mi is you can figure what works best for you. I like to slowly start drawing/hitting the mi as soon as I push the button. Very light warming air rushing through the load. This lets you enjoy all those tasty terps that turns to vapor first. I then exhale ALL those tasty terps. All the while still holding the button down. I then hit it again and I can ramp my draw speed up to a full on thick vapor hit. This pretty much jump starts my thick full bodied heat soaked mi hits.

Now again I'm not saying this is how everyone should hit it. But by hitting the mi like this I pretty much take care of that hard biting hot throat hit that can be possible by pulling too much heat at first. Doing it my way I can out pull my heater and through my draw speed regulate just how fast it ramps up.
I should mention that this is on a cold unit with a fully charged battery.

Do you think putting the battery in one way or another changes the angle of the copper tab enough to not contact the brass knob well causing HR? I know before I dropped my unit and squashed the inner spring a little bit my tab wouldn't contact the bat at all if put in + side down!


That would be my best guess. The problem is either in the side of the tab or it's the copper tab at the top. I'm really not sure which is the main issue. I have still encountered the heat drain in the threaded rod but if I take my battery out and reinsert it or swap for a new battery that will usually do the trick.
All I know is the thing just flat out works. And it's such a joy to use. I've had other vaporizer experiences that led me to be frustrated and always trying to duplicate that one time I had a great vape experience. With the mi it's always a great session.
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I bought a back up Milaana recently and the best deal I found was from 420 EDC. He's a member on here. I got a battery charger and the battery with his price. Plus shipping was only 4.20.

Got wood stems a couple of days ago. Thanks again Alan. Found the screens from RBT fit perfect.
 
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