• Do NOT click on any vaporpedia.com links. The domain has been compromised and will attempt to infect your system. See https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/warning-vaporpedia-com-has-been-compromised.54960/.

The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer

b0

Cloudy...
So, now that I'm happy with how AF is performing I will like to build a new coil for my SF. The old one has been glowing red too many times and will like to start over with a new one.

I've never build a coil in my life and if I remember right my coil is the old ones and now @Pipes is making them a bit different. Already contacted him for some help, but will love to hear from you guys and your experience.

Any photo/video tutorial will help amazingly!!
 

luke00978

Well-Known Member
g7p1CeG.jpg


gen 1 with 14mm female wooden joint
 

jimt0r

Well-Known Member
I have all my bits together, new insulators and all. I will be starting after I get my hands on a completed induction heater, I need some input weather updating/overwriting the stock OS on a Wismec RX300 would be feasible otherwise i will be waiting on yet another mod and batteries
 

E0x

Well-Known Member
Question for ppl that have the eraser and glass version , don't you find the glass version very restricted ? because in my case i find it to the point i don't want use it anymore , maybe i miss some technique or indeed the restricted air flow level of this version ?

thanks
 
E0x,
  • Like
Reactions: KeroZen

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Do these enable the fine tuning with PID like myevic etc.? Can't find any related posts in this thread.

Yes the DNA boards offer a lot of tuning parameters but they don't expose PID coefficients (they are nonetheless said to work superbly) Check the Escribe user manual here for more details >> https://downloads.evolvapor.com/escribe/EScribeManual.pdf

For the HohmTech stuff I was almost tempted to buy one to see but it's a small investment and I prefer SBS designs so much now that I'm used to them... so I don't know the answer.

AF is big improvement but still getting +/-30°C jumps when protection appears - it usually happens twice per 15s puff limit.

That's quite a lot! Are you seeing this in the device monitor app? I had some weirdness with my evic VTC mini but not that much.

Are you using myevic or ArticFox? Did you enable PID for the former and PI for the latter? In myevic you don't get the "protection" message anymore when PID is enabled normally.

Question for ppl that have the eraser and glass version , don't you find the glass version very restricted ? because in my case i find it to the point i don't want use it anymore , maybe i miss some technique or indeed the restricted air flow level of this version ?

Hey mate, sure it's not your screen? With 14mm I need to torch it clean several times per week otherwise it clogs so much it's not enjoyable.

But being a smaller diameter it's bound to be more restricted than the OG or Eraser that's for sure.
 
KeroZen,

luke00978

Well-Known Member
arcic fox was just released for the Ikonn220 (the mod that wouldn’t project) now all is good with it stock firmware was just too shit, nice little mod now!
 

pjp-222

Well-Known Member
That's quite a lot! Are you seeing this in the device monitor app? I had some weirdness with my evic VTC mini but not that much.

Are you using myevic or ArticFox? Did you enable PID for the former and PI for the latter? In myevic you don't get the "protection" message anymore when PID is enabled normally.

Been very busy lately. Thanks for your responses. These temperature jumps were in AF using NFE Monitor. I was unable to set myevic correctly (I did not know about Modes), but now it seems I am on the right way.

Playing with PID and TCR values. I get little bit confused here. When I set the TCR around 150 the coil don't glow (I try to avoid it) around 200°C but vapor is weak but when I set it higher, +-180TCR at the same temperature (how could it be the same temperature whether glowing or not??) it starts to glow a lot and vapor is very good but I am afraid it could be dangerous. Do your coil usually glow?

Here is my current setup. Calling it Pure (~there are no silicone o-rings etc. just cork and peek insulator) Pleasure (~not getting bored with those silly screens anymore).
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5FRTrS2d0ZvZhE912

How do you guys cut and drill glass stems? Got some equipment but ended in literary in bloody tears... Eyes full of glass dust
 

virtualpurple

Well-Known Member
Been very busy lately. Thanks for your responses. These temperature jumps were in AF using NFE Monitor. I was unable to set myevic correctly (I did not know about Modes), but now it seems I am on the right way.

Playing with PID and TCR values. I get little bit confused here. When I set the TCR around 150 the coil don't glow (I try to avoid it) around 200°C but vapor is weak but when I set it higher, +-180TCR at the same temperature (how could it be the same temperature whether glowing or not??) it starts to glow a lot and vapor is very good but I am afraid it could be dangerous. Do your coil usually glow?

Here is my current setup. Calling it Pure (~there are no silicone o-rings etc. just cork and peek insulator) Pleasure (~not getting bored with those silly screens anymore).
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5FRTrS2d0ZvZhE912

How do you guys cut and drill glass stems? Got some equipment but ended in literary in bloody tears... Eyes full of glass dust

From my understanding glowing should be avoided.

As far as cutting and drilling glass stems, many people use special bits or cutting discs and use water to help prevent dust in the air and to keep the glass cool during cutting and drilling.

DEFINITELY don't do that stuff without eye protection and a mask that can keep the dust out. You don't want to mess with glass particulate in your eyes or respiratory tract.
 

grokit

well-worn member
I need to make my shitfucker glow at least intermittently to get vapor, still getting the hang of it with my 70w pico. It's set up stock atm, but I'm thinking this will be my first foray into custom firmware.

So much to learn still, and I'm in the beginning of a big inefficient moving project so it's going slow :\

:sherlock:
 
grokit,
  • Like
Reactions: KeroZen

pjp-222

Well-Known Member
From my understanding glowing should be avoided.
Could You explain a bit why it should be avoided?

A and does anybody know how is it possible to achieve same temperature (according to mod's display) as with or without glowing? By simple logic, when the coil is glowing it should be always hotter than without glow...
 
Last edited:
pjp-222,

virtualpurple

Well-Known Member
Could You explain a bit why it should be avoided?

A and does anybody know how is it possible to achieve same temperature (according to mod's display) as with or without glowing? By simple logic, when the coil is glowing it should be always hotter than without glow...

I'm not the right guy for that job, I just seem to recall that coming up a few times. Perhaps @KeroZen or @Shit Snacks have some input on the matter.
 

pjp-222

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know how safe are FPM o rings (also known as fkm, viton..)? I read they stand much higher temperatures then the red silicone ones... But do they offgas anything at 100-200°C or so?
 
pjp-222,
  • Like
Reactions: Hjalmark

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
No glowing needed here to get vapour, tho I stayed on the eraser and passed my SF onto @phattpiggie .

In other news, I bought some evo screens (the long tube screens with the basket screen caps). With a little modification, as in taking the basket rings off and cutting to size, they fit wonderfully in the Erasers SS bowl.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Bah I still find it strange personally. With PID regulation, if you draw harder you should just raise the max power to get more Watts at your disposal when you draw. But when set to temperature the coil should be at the same temperature than mine... and not glowing.

But maybe I also vape at a lower temperature? I don't get my ABV very dark with convection vapes, but I extract way slower than you guys so it ends depleted but still brown, not chocolate or darker.
 
KeroZen,
  • Like
Reactions: 2clicker

ander

Well-Known Member
Coil untouched & unmodified since 03/2017. Glows at 240°C. I have to draw pretty hard to avoid central dark spot. AVB: dark yellow, strong and re-vapable in conduction. ;)
 
ander,

Phenix

Well-Known Member
well I did not read the thread fully (50pages plus are massive) however from the first few pages I got it like "if you are lucky a fellow FCer already built one for hisself and has all parts for another one laying around" - snowball effect.

So: Does maybe someone has the parts, a kit, or a assembled one on hand and would like to pass it on to me?
I am located in Germany, therefore EU preferred..

(About me: I use a Chapman often, a vaponic sometimes. only tried a melba as electric vape which I do not like at all - therefore I am looking to improve..)
 

b0

Cloudy...
well I did not read the thread fully (50pages plus are massive) however from the first few pages I got it like "if you are lucky a fellow FCer already built one for hisself and has all parts for another one laying around" - snowball effect.

So: Does maybe someone has the parts, a kit, or a assembled one on hand and would like to pass it on to me?
I am located in Germany, therefore EU preferred..

(About me: I use a Chapman often, a vaponic sometimes. only tried a melba as electric vape which I do not like at all - therefore I am looking to improve..)

PM sent :rockon:
 
Top Bottom