Discussion in 'DIY' started by Pipes, Mar 17, 2016.
It was good to me... Less than a month to arrive at my door from China!
I'm looking into this mod, but being a noob I have some questions first before I pull the trigger. It doesn't have tcr modes listed as a capability... only 3 pre incuded ones. Does this unit still have tcr or a setting that would be suitable for the eraser? IF not could I flash this unit with some new software... or would it just not work. It seems like that it has a deeper recession than the knight and is cheaper, that's why it caught my eye!
edit: also is there a current going rate for the project eraser shipped from pipes?
Sorry buddy but nothing says it has TCR... And not sure if you could flash it as well...
Eraser goes for $35 + $12 shipping for the world or a few bucks less for US as far as I know.
Shucks... Thanks @natural farmer
I've build a rudimentary lathe...
(upper edge thickness: 2mm)
...and I'm having
so much fun!!!
I just love these buddy!!! Really good work there!!! You definitely sending me a couple in the future!
What's that black ring between the cork and the mod connector in the last pic though? Painted cork ring?
My ego adapter has a different shape. The ring holds it firm, fills the gap... and yes it's a painted slice of cork.
Edit: I like the idea of keeping this Lo-Fi project totally open. And my intention is to share the entire cork crafting passages (maybe not in this thread...) for creating your own cork sleeve with cheap tools... if for @Pipes it's ok...
Hi folks, it was a long time since I posted in this thread and my Project was taking dust cause a lot of others vapes to test.
Today I took it out and, after to deal with settings for a few minutes, I got it back into rotation! It is on par with others on-demand units I tested as the Milaana or the MVT!
I forgotten the settings I used and have to tweak them until I found the vapor I want. here my actual settings:
I get good vapor in 10s max, rotate between each hit and stir every 3-4 hits. I get a small hot spot but less than I got with the previous setting since i used a "deflector" screen on the top of my load, actually no screen on the top. Are these settings making any sense for you? I was cautious about to check that I only get a faint glow...
A last pic, mainly for @natural farmer pleasure...
Yes yes! Me likey!!!
I am gonna load my Eraser for the first time after a few weeks right now!!!
damnit @Pipes , you keep distracting me from my e-nail project and itching my VAS.
so I had to scratch it.
now I have a VC on the way and I just have to have a Project also.
but seriously, again really nice work, you're killing it in DIY!
just need to decide on the mod box and between SF or Eraser. the latter seems more popular but the glass construction of the SF really appeals to me. is there a big difference in performance or efficiency between the two?
in regards to the mod box, I like the side-by-side low profile form of the Smoant Knight but I would also like something hackable like the Cuboid or the RX75.
@hardboiledfrog you could go for the eleaf aster rt (and hope that it gets added to arcticfox...)
I like the style of the aster, not the built-in battery though.
I am leaning heavily towards the cuboid ATM.
Cuboid is definitely a proven workhorse. Also, personally like a 2 cell mod myself. The extra battery life is nice to have on board.
Could have just been luck of the draw, but I've had two cuboids since buying the Eraser and both have had the centre pin losing its spring problem, making them ultimately useless. The battery life and how it works when it works was great tho.
The Wismec RX 2/3 is my fave so far, all the benefits of a cuboid and the option to add an extra battery should you feel the need. Feels nicer in my hand to the cuboid too. Both I have to remember to lay flat, if I stand em up, I can guarantee I'm going to knock it over within seconds (which I did with the shitfucker within minutes of getting it, not good).
Im also using a Pico Dual that I got thru the post yesterday, first thoughts are that the firmware doesnt update to arcticfox (i couldnt get it too anyway) and it doesnt feel any where near as nice in the hand. Looks much nicer with the Eraser attached to it tho. And its squat shape means it wont fall over in a hurry.
The Wismec RX 2/3 I'll be using solely for the Shitfucker.
Which reminds me... My internet has been down since I received the Shitfucker through the post...
I LOVE THE SHITFUCKER! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
(yeah, I've finally given in on the name shitfucker )
thanks very much for the warning, this appears to be a common problem.
"I had a Cuboid for about a day before getting the "Atomizer Short" message at all times. I sent it in to get repaired, but this is what the nice lady at Joyetech had to say:
"Kindly pls check, The o-ring insulator under the centre connector has been squashed. When you tighten your atty it moves and shorts out. Get a small flat screwdriver and carefully lift the centre pin and try and squash as much of the o-ring back underneath it. If your atomiser's centre sticks out too much it'll break the rubber insulator."
The center pin on my Thunderstorm RTA sticks out a good bit. Just a warning!"
so it seems the issue is with atomizers with the center power pin extended too much causing damage to the Cuboid's 510 connector. I think I'll just go with the Wismec, it was one of my top choices also.
also leaning towards the SF as I really prefer glass over metal in the vapor path and I like the name too.
thanks again @emmdeemo , good advice.
So past night I got my first combusting issue with the shitfucker. Didn't give it too much importance and today just cleaned my bubbler and the adapter. The weird thing is that I just found out that there is no way I can lock the omhs anymore.
Tried installing the official firmware and still the same issue, even with ohms locked I still can see the numbers moving up. Anyone knows what can it be? The coil damaged maybe? :S
Seeing the ohms change as it heats up is normal. Maybe never noticed?
Are you manually entering the ohms? If so, it needs to be within 10% of real.
Do a cold measure first and you can calculate the max change.
Are you saying the TC function is no longer working?
With the SF, any coil issue should be visible.
In my screen of the Evic I would see:
Coil is locked at 600 and doesn't move, that's why I had Res to see the actual read of the ohms.
But now both show the same...
Try this. It totally wipes out all data and will only boot to be programmed. Then you can reload the myevic.
Worth a shot as you are missing data it seems.
I flashed my cuboid with the latest myevic and put in the suggested settings in another thread. I got good results with my shitfucker but when I put in the eraser it is saying it is reading a new coil and the ohms are different I think? I have tried powering the device off and reinstalling the batteries, but still nothing with the eraser, just repeats that message.
So I think I have found that I can get things to heat up by locking my ohms at .529 (it seemed like I initially had to raise the ohms). Now however, I see my ohms fluctuating a bit when I hit the fire button, I'm assuming with the ohms locked in I should be avoiding that, but I'm a little out of my league with this stuff.
Tried this a couple times and still having the same issue
Dunno what to try next...
Let's back up some.
Is the display not showing any information as your above post?
Describe the symptoms again as far as how the coil is heating. And ohms raising. Keep in mind that ohms are suppose to rise when temperature is rising.
i've had my project on the shelf for some time, mostly because I always got a hot spot in the middle of the load while using the original (coil within a coil) coil. so i finally decided to rebuild it. i used a stainless steel dual core clapton wire and built a single coil with it. it's a much higher mass coil than the original, and works really well. reminds me how much i love the design of this vape. just thought i'd report since i haven't noticed anyone else mention using compound wire for the coil.
About Hot Spot:
Today, I grinded the holes of the Stainless Steel coil housing,
in order to make some swirling air flow around the coil :
It seems to be pretty efficient, no more hot spot !
I'm running out of , so it will need some more testing, but I think it's the way to go
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