Discussion in 'DIY' started by Pipes, Mar 17, 2016.
Sounds soo good..!
Well, apparently not... as you and me both destroyed their sleeve already!
I'm saddened to announce that my silicone sleeve ripped apart starting from the top. When I insert the stems it splits. I'll try to upload a picture later, but it seems there was too much stress put on the stem-holding part.
I have no intention to use that weird glue posted earlier in my vapor path, as a matter of principle. And I also need to retract what I said previously: I can detect a faint silicone smell and it's slightly affecting the taste. It was not obvious at first but became clear after more usage. Note that it's light and not aggressive to the nostrils, almost sweet and not acrid like some silicones can be.
But no worries, I'm sure the glass version will be the right one for me. Keep the 3 versions: wood for the looks and for best heat insulation, silicone for best stem fit and (maybe not so much heh?) indestructibility, and glass for purity of the vapor path.
@KeroZen i do taste the silicone when i pass it around too much without give time to cold down. i prefer the wood outter shell because of that but i keep using the silicone one because the tighter fit , make a new outter shell (wood and tighter/taller stem holder area ) is my goal in the future , not sure about the glass outter shell , that think will get too hot for me , i am not a careful person and i can burn and my friends with that.
Yes exactly, the silicone smell becomes more obvious at high temperatures near the end of the bowl.
I liked the wood body but the linseed smell is still there on mine, after many months airing out now. It also had less space for the coil inside, so this was a limitation. And furthermore, I had a different stem (was a batch with slightly smaller OD steel tube) which was a very loose fit and after some use I had to hold it all the time otherwise it would fall and spill the goods on the floor... a pain when passing around and also having to use two handed was not optimal.
The coil on the eraser version is clearly better, I can't say I'm getting hot spots anymore. Maybe a slight hot zone at most, but rotating the stem once or twice is enough to get even extraction.
The stem fit on the eraser was also excellent, but maybe too much apparently!
I agree that the glass one will be almost dangerous to touch, I'm having the same problem with my fishbone RDA's (cf BULLI thread) but at the same time it will be robbing less heat away than stainless steel (glass has a lower conductivity coef.) It will be also very easy to break, like everything made of glass... But taste will be the purest we can get, especially with a GonG connection and less o-rings.
Well, compared to most of the competition it is! And I shouldn't try to take the SS tube out the way I did. It was really stupid of me but I was hard testing it those days so... I think with normal use it should be very durable. Yeah, ok, not indestructible of course but close. And even without Pipes sleeve it is quite useable with normal silicone tubing as well. Just needs a bit larger size than the 1/2" I used optimally.
Pereonally, I haven't had any silicone taste but I usually don't take so many hits in a row or such long hits maybe. I would certainly prefer a nice spalted maple, blackwood or olive tree sleeve with orings and a nice stem fit. As a matter of fact now that we are talking about it, I will try make one myself from a piece of olive wood with my knife, a drill and a file! Let's see how that comes out...
Music for my craftsman ears..! If needed, may I ask for your assistance in future..?
@ander sorry i can't do anything but for myself , i live in a island send or get material is a problem and very costly plus i am don't have a steady job in a long time and over all of that i never work with wood so when i make that outter shell ( if is ever make ) will be my first time working with wood
@ander sorry i thought you were talking about what I said
If I manage to complete it sure buddy!
@KeroZen indeed , maybe the perfect soluction is a outter shell make of wood and inner tube of glass ( a idea that @funkyjunky and i we talking about long time ago )
Maybe we can cooperate... still waiting for the eraser so... we will see...
Just read through the manual for the istick pico I got yesterday. TCR mode allows for adjustments to resistance watts and temp settings so once I have the eraser in hand, I'll attach it to the mod and set it up according to all the helpful advice here.
Looking forward to seeing what ideas folks come up with with regard to wooden sleeve / stem adapters
Where did I miss that there will be a glass version? I would love to hear more about this.
Why did the wood version go away? I'm thinking I may try rigging something up with cork while my eraser gets here. What's the od on the steel piping that houses the heater?
I am not having the best luck with the project so far. When it works well, I am happy but I have now faced another issue. When I went to use the eraser today, it read the cold resistance as between .573-.582. Around the time that I noticed the ohm shift, I had also noticed that the performance wasn't as strong as previously. I looked at the faq and there was a section on drifting ohms readings. The last part said to check for any parts of the coil touching adjacent windings. So I took my first foray into opening the eraser. When I went to just take the casing off, the metal frame came with it.
When I examined the coil, two parts that seemed to be from different ends of the coil were touching each other and one of the parts had discoloured. So I don't know what to make of that.
I separated the two touching parts of the coil and put the ss case back on. I then put the batteries in to check the resistance at that point and see where it was. I fired the mod for a moment a wisp of something puffed up and smelled bad. I have now readjusted things and put the ss sleeve back on the coil. When I put the mod on now, it reads the cold resistance as anywhere from .582-.868
What did I fuck up? What do I need to do to fix this? I really like the eraser when it was working right, but this resistance issue has me confused. @Pipes , @funkyjunky?
Updated to add the fact that the cold resistance has now levelled at 0.620 so between that and the momentary puff of question mark, I am holding off any use until I figure out what happened.
Send me a side angle close up picture if possible via PM.
Yes, sometimes the SS will want to stay in the sleeve. The SS to base and SS to sleeve are very close in the amount of friction holding them in. It can stay in the sleeve for this as we're not cleaning it. But can be pushed down from the top by using the stem. The screen can move down by 3/4" before it starts to get crushed by the sides narrowing in. Enough to allow the oven to be grabbed from the bottom.
Set your phasers to STUN!!!
My name is Bond! Vape Bond...
Love this little fella!
I went in the other direction -
Who's a big boy? Who's a big boy?
EDIT: Man! Just when I finally flashed my Cuboid I decided to get the Pico and now I am hooked! These last days I just used the Cuboid as a travel battery charger... How smooth is it with this configuration buddy?
EDIT2: My "twister" coil has gone done to 0.51Ω from 0.56Ω... At least that's what the Pico is reading. I will double check with Cuboid tomorrow morning to see if it's possible that it reads differently on each mod...
Not really any extra smooth, but certainly a more cool stream of vapour. I forgot how nice a glass mouthpiece is. And then I took out the middle man...
Now take that glass away, fit an Air stem in that SS bowl and be amazed!
Nice pic... Interesting chandelier..!
Nice studio... is there a pile of vinyls?!
@Pipes and @anyoneusingit: How the Reuleaux 2/3 is performing..?
Does the eleaf istick pico work with the eraser?
Also is this the best mod for the $?
Oh hang on, thats the mod that the farmers using above isnt it?
While not on the list (I think the list comprises of devices that are also compatible with the "myevic" firmware), Eleaf's iStick Pico works very well with the Project as most TCR capable mods I think. From my experience so far it might also work even better... I can't seem to grab Cuboid at all these days! Pico is so small and comfortable to hold and have around that I don't mind the occasional battery swapping...
Haven't found a cheaper and smaller mod so far that also has replaceable batteries so it might be the best mod for the $ as well....
I don't if anyone in this thread has ever thought to themselves that a product was so interesting, or cool, or helpful or whatever that you wanted to shake the hand of the inventor. Well last night, I got to do that with the project! As I had said before I was having issues with my coil. After much back and forth between @Pipes and myself, and A LOT of failing/learning on my part, it was determined that my coil was fucked and he would help me get back on my feet.
Thankfully, I don't live that far from him and he invited me out to him so he could help me. He might not be the mad scientist some of us (ok maybe just me ) had pictured him, but he is even nicer and funnier in person than his online personality, then again he is Canadian so that should come as no surprise. It was really great seeing the master at work. Watching him put together a coil was quite the sight. Now if you think I could do it after watching him... In the end, he helped me out a lot and my project is up and running again. And of course I had to thank him with a big handshake. Thanks @Pipes
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