Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

SkrACHIN

Well-Known Member
@THC SCIENTIFIC just finished moving to a new facility. Which probably is going cause a small delay in response time. Please try understand, G helps everyone out in this thread. Let's try do him a solid and try be just a little extra patient.
You won't find customer service like this from another vape pen company that's for sure!

I'm still testing my 8 with my new button assembly. But for the most part everything is working great. Like you I was on the verge of giving up on the 8. The new button assembly has my 8 running great with the hercules! I don't have a persei anymore. I'm solely relying on the 8 and my minicron.
I hear ya. I have the entire line of Persei attachments, accessories, glass and power. Luckily I've never had to use the customer service. Everything has been so solid. Didn't know they were moving. Explains the no answer. I've been trying to get this 8 to fire for a month. This thing is driving me crazy. Can't understand how the kanger tank goes but the herc won't. I'm glad to hear some people are getting results from a new button assembly. i want my 8 to work. looks and feels so damn good. had a lot of people ask me about it. luckily i can always get the eliquid to vape so they can see it in action. i guess i will continue to wait...
 
SkrACHIN,

THC SCIENTIFIC

To Boldly Go Where No One Has Gone Before
Manufacturer
We are almost done guys sorry but we are re prioritizing everything to move forward with bigger and better (for you guys) dream. For now please stand by and I'll get to everyone's questions and answers next few days.


Button assemblies should be done this monday and shipped to us, once done we will start shipping them out to people who need them and converting existing 8's to the new button assemblies.

Although there is a few hundred 8's out there we will get them all resolved.
 

Vapoholic420

-Loyal To The Oil-
It seems like the contact pins on my 8 get disconnected. I can't get it to fire with out rebuilding it first.
@masaki, aren't u still using the old button housing just with the new pins? Bcuz I tried that last night, and it didn't work as good as the new one, even with the new pins! And then, when I put the new longer housing back on, it wasn't working as good now either!! So I took the housing back out and I noticed that for some reason, if u look at the size of the gap between the button screw and the back of the housing where u screw it in, on mine, one side the screw is a little tiny bit tighter than the other, probably bcuz of the threading. Only a little tiny tiny bit but it must be enough to make a difference bcuz I took my button assembly out and spun it around so that the tighter gap was on top and the other side on the bottom, and now I'm back to barely having to press the button hard and perfect draws and bellows of vapor!! So I'm pretty sure it's got alot to do with that button screw. I hope this made sense.
 
Vapoholic420,

invisiblefriend

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
@Vapoholic420
@lonelyhero

@k3nd4l
MY NYC PEEPZ -- other NY and tri - state peeps :)
sweeeet --


I'm on LI -- right outside the city -- NYC -- we gotta all chill

I run a studio --- we should do a session ! :)







@k3nd4l

re -- sr74 3.7v and other heat up time

I'm still mastering the 7.4v with batteries ( i never have luck even with aw even :( -- just me though i guess :) -- but I'm ok with since - the core is just fine - since as mentioned NY isn't easy on the run :) YET ......hopefully soon --
but 7.4v on the core has a fairly quick heat up time

as far as time ? -- i use the hammer of course ( wish it was silver like my other :"tools" :) )
but I keep button pressed 15-20 seconds b4 the clouds r ready to flow ! with the core @ 7.4v...
sometimes need 30 seconds when cold and of course all depends on type of product ..

now that I have the 3.7 rod working -- if it is COLD I feel it needs about A FULL MINUTE TO HEAT UP N START WITH SERIOUS CLOUDS ---
THEN AFTER heated up -- only need to re apply the button for 15 - 20 seconds for each session --

it degrades quickly on batteries --

with the core its standard and stays the same amount of time --
I actually feel the 3.7 needs less than 60 second heat up time when on the core --
again once heated up --- on the core it only needs 10 seconds to jump off again after light cool down ..

im gunna do actual stop watch test when I'm in studio later n ill post -- with core and full charged batts
how long does the 3.7v take to heat up ? & how long does the 7.4 ? i keep seeing your posts on the 3.7 so i figure you'd have some knowledge on this.. Also for the c02 oil im on the east coast too but im pretty sure its visocity thins it out too much when heated thus having all the oil fall into the reclaim area ? not too sure but this is the idea i got.


It is sweet with the 3.7v --- now together with the small stack battery setup its just a drop larger than a bic pen :) -- perfect for nyc -- just with it matched better -- :_) so vain .. lol

(reclaim always gr8 4 edibles my friends :) )
 
Last edited:

Fredster951

Well-Known Member
@Vapoholic420
@lonelyhero

@k3nd4l
MY NYC PEEPZ -- other NY and tri - state peeps :)
sweeeet --


I'm on LI -- right outside the city -- NYC -- we gotta all chill

I run a studio --- we should do a session ! :)







@k3nd4l

re -- sr74 3.7v and other heat up time

I'm still mastering the 7.4v with batteries ( i never have luck even with aw even :( -- just me though i guess :) -- but I'm ok with since - the core is just fine - since as mentioned NY isn't easy on the run :) YET ......hopefully soon --
but 7.4v on the core has a fairly quick heat up time

as far as time ? -- i use the hammer of course ( wish it was silver like my other :"tools" :) )
but I keep button pressed 15-20 seconds b4 the clouds r ready to flow ! with the core @ 7.4v...
sometimes need 30 seconds when cold and of course all depends on type of product ..

now that I have the 3.7 rod working -- if it is COLD I feel it needs about A FULL MINUTE TO HEAT UP N START WITH SERIOUS CLOUDS ---
THEN AFTER heated up -- only need to re apply the button for 15 - 20 seconds for each session --

it degrades quickly on batteries --

with the core its standard and stays the same amount of time --
I actually feel the 3.7 needs less than 60 second heat up time when on the core --
again once heated up --- on the core it only needs 10 seconds to jump off again after light cool down ..

im gunna do actual stop watch test when I'm in studio later n ill post -- with core and full charged batts



It is sweet with the 3.7v --- now together with the small stack battery setup its just a drop larger than a bic pen :) -- perfect for nyc -- just with it matched better -- :_) so vain .. lol

(reclaim always gr8 4 edibles my friends :) )
I use the black rod often on the original SR74 barrels. One ti coil. I use a Sony VTC5 and AW18650 battery. Battery must be near fully charged for best results. With battery power around the 12-15 second mark I start getting good vapor production. I puff on it very very lightly to get clouds. I usually keep the hammer top on and turn it off when i feel the oil vapor getting too hot and repeat until session is over. When I switch off the button i do light cooldown hits. Also overloading in the black rod is not recommended. It will cause delay in heat up time and weaker vapor production.
 

Vapoholic420

-Loyal To The Oil-
@Vapoholic420
@lonelyhero

@k3nd4l
MY NYC PEEPZ -- other NY and tri - state peeps :)
sweeeet --


I'm on LI -- right outside the city -- NYC -- we gotta all chill

I run a studio --- we should do a session ! :)







@k3nd4l

re -- sr74 3.7v and other heat up time

I'm still mastering the 7.4v with batteries ( i never have luck even with aw even :( -- just me though i guess :) -- but I'm ok with since - the core is just fine - since as mentioned NY isn't easy on the run :) YET ......hopefully soon --
but 7.4v on the core has a fairly quick heat up time

as far as time ? -- i use the hammer of course ( wish it was silver like my other :"tools" :) )
but I keep button pressed 15-20 seconds b4 the clouds r ready to flow ! with the core @ 7.4v...
sometimes need 30 seconds when cold and of course all depends on type of product ..

now that I have the 3.7 rod working -- if it is COLD I feel it needs about A FULL MINUTE TO HEAT UP N START WITH SERIOUS CLOUDS ---
THEN AFTER heated up -- only need to re apply the button for 15 - 20 seconds for each session --

it degrades quickly on batteries --

with the core its standard and stays the same amount of time --
I actually feel the 3.7 needs less than 60 second heat up time when on the core --
again once heated up --- on the core it only needs 10 seconds to jump off again after light cool down ..

im gunna do actual stop watch test when I'm in studio later n ill post -- with core and full charged batts



It is sweet with the 3.7v --- now together with the small stack battery setup its just a drop larger than a bic pen :) -- perfect for nyc -- just with it matched better -- :_) so vain .. lol

(reclaim always gr8 4 edibles my friends :) )
@invisiblefriend, that's cool your in NY too. What kind of studio do u run? I would definitely get together for a session with u, but I'm up in Syracuse, NY. It would be a little bit of a trip just for a session. Haha. But I have been to NYC a few times and actually plan on coming down that way again in a couple months. Maybe I'll stop into your studio if you're still interested. It would be cool to meet up with a fellow FC'er and have a session with ya and check out the quality of the oil down in NYC. I'll be sure to bring some from here to let u try out too. ;-) Lmk. And I'll pm ya when I'm coming that way again. I'm pretty sure ur not a cop or anything. Haha. I've seen ya on here posting for a while now.

Edit: By the way, if ur running a core with the 3.7 volt rod, just bump it up to about 4 volts and it'll cut down the heat up time and still not burn ur oil up. But if ur using batteries ur stuck with the 3.7 volts. At least until they come out with the Iris V2! I can't wait for that to come out!! Hopefully soon!
 
Last edited:

itschad

Well-Known Member
It seems like the contact pins on my 8 get disconnected. I can't get it to fire with out rebuilding it first.

Pop the PTFE caps out and insert the pins into them, make sure they're tight and flush and as far in as they can go

put the button (new assembly) in the 8

put the bottom PTFE cap/gold pin in

**usually at this point i notice that inserting it has slightly knocked my button assembly off level or slightly kinked my spring. straighten it out with your finger*

hold the button in ever so slightly and drop the top cap/pin in


significant improvement when doing this
 

Vapoholic420

-Loyal To The Oil-
Pop the PTFE caps out and insert the pins into them, make sure they're tight and flush and as far in as they can go

put the button (new assembly) in the 8

put the bottom PTFE cap/gold pin in

**usually at this point i notice that inserting it has slightly knocked my button assembly off level or slightly kinked my spring. straighten it out with your finger*

hold the button in ever so slightly and drop the top cap/pin in


significant improvement when doing this
That's exactly how I assemble it too. The button assembly always moves a little on mine too and it's easier to fix and make sure u get it right if u do the bottom first.
 
Vapoholic420,
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vjt324

Well-Known Member
Guys have any of u had problems with a v3 persei top firing the globe?

I just got a replacement top for my v2 and it fires everything but the globe
When i put the globe and press the button it blinks three times. I take the same globe and put it on a minicron and it fired right up. Also, i made a mistake and slapped the globe on when i had the 7.4 tube for the herc and Boom! Globe fired up for a split second, no blinking. Tried again on the 3.7 ss, no luck.

Also, is it me or is this top slimmer. Dont remember being able to feel the ridges between the top and the top.

Btw @invisiblefriend im in Jersey!
Its like nobody dabs in jersey city yet. Im down for a sesh! Lol
 

konmo

Active Member
With my new button assembly at first I had to put a bit of pressure not as much as the old button but still needed some additional pressure regardless. I back out the button screw just a little bit so the button would travel deeper in. Now I don't have to apply much pressure at all and also since it travels more into the housing, I don't have to worry about it firing in my pocket.

Edit: Also I always put the top and bottom pin last when assembling the button
 
konmo,

lonelyhero

the lost soul
Company Rep
Is there a video anywhere of how to torch the herc titanium coils clean?

I'm cleaning my herc for the first time and the only thing i'm not sure of is how to torch the coil clean, i've heard of them crumbling if done wrong.

I searched for about an hour or so with no results i don't want to ruin my first coil even tho i do have the backup that came with the herc.

EDIT: also is there any harm in completely removing the AAF i'm not very fond of having the draw restricted
 
lonelyhero,

lockie

Well-Known Member
I have never used the AAF, I'm sure other users don't as well. I definitely enjoy as much airflow as possible.
I've been told to lightly torch the coil and drop in ISO afterwards. Make sure not to keep it in there for too long. A video would be nice though...
 

TommydCat

Well-Known Member
The AAF doesn't seem to really fit in the SR-74x all that well - there's an appreciable gap between the nut and AAF (I realize this isn't uncommon, but seems really far - enough that after the chamber heats up, that AAF is going to fall down the shaft away from the holes), whereas it fits nicely into the SR-74 before the X parts were added.

I haven't actually liked the AAF in any position but fully open (no Nibbler XL, yet) so it doesn't affect me in any way - just curious if others seen it :)
 
TommydCat,

konmo

Active Member
The AAF doesn't seem to really fit in the SR-74x all that well - there's an appreciable gap between the nut and AAF (I realize this isn't uncommon, but seems really far - enough that after the chamber heats up, that AAF is going to fall down the shaft away from the holes), whereas it fits nicely into the SR-74 before the X parts were added.

I haven't actually liked the AAF in any position but fully open (no Nibbler XL, yet) so it doesn't affect me in any way - just curious if others seen it :)
yup same reason I dont use the sr74x parts, the AAF has to much space to move around. Don't know if that is normal but I've been using the regular sr74 parts with the sr74x threadless top cap.
 
konmo,

lonelyhero

the lost soul
Company Rep
the AAF for me i try to set full open but after a while i notice draw being restricted open it up and its moved to restrict it again i'm thinking of removing it entirely
 
lonelyhero,

k3nd4l

Well-Known Member
i already have 2 AW iMR 18350 batteries. I plan on running the herc at 3.7 w. ss tube eventually so i want to get 1 more battery so i have 3 to cycle while im out..

Ive seen the efest 18650 advertised as a better battery than the aw im 18650 but how is the efest 18350 in comparison to othe aw imr 18350 ? or if anyone knows the best 18350 battery to use please let me know
 
k3nd4l,

spoutti

Well-Known Member
Guys have any of u had problems with a v3 persei top firing the globe?

I just got a replacement top for my v2 and it fires everything but the globe
When i put the globe and press the button it blinks three times. I take the same globe and put it on a minicron and it fired right up. Also, i made a mistake and slapped the globe on when i had the 7.4 tube for the herc and Boom! Globe fired up for a split second, no blinking. Tried again on the 3.7 ss, no luck.

Also, is it me or is this top slimmer. Dont remember being able to feel the ridges between the top and the top.

Btw @invisiblefriend im in Jersey!
Its like nobody dabs in jersey city yet. Im down for a sesh! Lol
I had a similar problem with a 3,7v kiss cart. I would get 3 blink.. Then, I pressed the button 1st and screw my cart while its firing. It then functions normally. Fixes the problem for xmin. x being a few puffs to all night long.

I quitted my sr71 for now; too much trouble. Lets kiss! Now I burned 2 7,4v kiss in a few days. The 2nd one while doing a dry cycle to burn/clean the coil. The black carbonised stuff on my coil didnt dissolve during the overnight iso bath. There is now less carbonised material on the coil, but it doesnt work anymore :cry: The 1st one, I dont know how I did it.

My plan is to master the kiss cart. I would greatly appreciate some pointers or links. I read from page 750 to now, but the kiss cart was hardly mentionned. Anw, I was going for the herc sr74. I didnt expect to buy the harder to master sr71 and quit on it. I will be scanning the tread for pointers on how to extend the 7,4v life span
 
spoutti,

Fredster951

Well-Known Member
@TommydCat I ended up removing the AFF washer on the SR74. No problems at all. I prefer this set up due to the open air flow.
@k3nd4l can't go wrong with both batteries. Buy the cheapest one IMO. I recommend AW. Been solid performers for me. A sony VTC5 is also a good choice. I find vapor shops to stock this battery often.
 
Fredster951,
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