The Nomad From Morwood

VAPEHUNTER

VAPEHUNTER

Well-Known Member
Dan Morrison said:
This is definitely a tolerance issue. I was riding a fine line between a fit that felt perfect... and one that wouldn't allow for the shrinkage/expansion of the wood when it goes through the initial break in period.

Most of the dimensional changes in the wood happen in the first few weeks of use.. and it can be tough to troubleshoot this before sending them out. And every block of wood is different in this regard.

SO! What's the solution? Well, I did test for this, and experienced the issue in my testing. The solution is to take a piece of fine sandpaper wrapped around a pen, so it fits into the heater module hole just barely snug, but not so snug that you can't twist it. Then just twist it a few times, for maybe 10 seconds or so.

This will open the hole up a fraction of a millimeter, but it's all that it takes. And you should be good to go. This is a permanent fix, and after the break in period, the wood settles out and doesn't move so much anymore.
Click to expand...

Nomad #12 is once again functional. :rockon:
And once I got the Heater Module out it was super easy. So easy I was able to do all the necessary "repairs" as I waited in my truck for my sons to finish their Karate class.

This was as far as I was able to insert the heater module before it would get stuck.
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As you can see in these photos the "dirty" looking area is where the heater module was sticking.
This is the area that has to be sanded down.
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First I removed the Connector Bridge so it wouldn't get damaged.
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Because I didn't want to scratch up the Bottom plate I used a 12" long wood dowel with 240 grit sandpaper and sanded from the top of the Nomad.
And because I didn't want to sand anything other than the area that needed it, I covered most of the sandpaper with notebook paper.
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I took it slow and only sanded a little at a time with many test fits.
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This is after i was done sanding.
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And the end result.
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:peace:
 
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VAPEHUNTER

VAPEHUNTER

Well-Known Member
cpk said:
I was thinking more of a pipe sock only $12. You could order in an exotic ie ostrich and maybe a thicker cut where it can slide in or a drawstring. I will post mine when they arevmade.
Click to expand...
Pipe Sock??? I completely missed those.

Very nice!


Pipe Socks and Walkabouts

Soft Cozy Pipe Socks - The Best Around:
Made of buckskin in black, yellow and shades of brown and tan..
$12.00 each plus shipping.
There will be a slight surcharge for orders of these outside the US.
The sizes are normally at least 7" tall by 4.5" wide. Custom sized orders are available.
If you would like to order pipe socks or have a question, please click here.
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The Walkabout Sock
Well as does sometimes happen I was asked to come up with something that would hold what you see below. Tobacco, one or two pipes, a tamper, lighter and maybe some cleaners, The gentleman wanted it to have a simple closure and be small enough to stick in a jacket pocket. He ended up not wanting them but after field testing them for a bit I discovered that I love mine so I made and sold a whole bunch in Chicago. Here they are. Color availability changes all the time. They're $50 each in cowhide and standard deerskin. Sometimes I have exotic leather available that will work like select bisons, elk, antelope, etc. These are generally $60 and up depending on the skin.

For more information on these Walkabout Socks please click here to email me.


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duff

duff

Well worn
Pipe socks sounds so nasty.
:evil:

Nice work @VAPEHUNTER.

I'm getting tremendous results with the low-medium heater, going slowly and barely inhaling.
When I hold the button for the entire hit and pull with any force, the hits never quite get there. However if I go uber-gently and barely inhale, I get lovely hits with @10 seconds on the button.
 
Dan Morrison

Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Hot Button Back Plate

I have had two reports of a poor connection in the button. Because the amps are relatively high, and the volts are low, the button contact will arc if the button is not fully depressed.

As everyone gets used to the button pressure, it's likely to press the button too light. The problem is that if this is done over and over.. the tarnish that is caused by the arcing will cause greater and greater resistance.

When that happens, the resistance will cause the back plate to become instantly very hot, from the poor connection.

If that happens, the button should be cleaned before further use. The problem will only get worse.

With my own Nomad, I tested the button by very lightly pressing the button so that I intentionally feathered it between being barely connected.. and not connected. This feathering action caused arcing and the back plate heated up.

In my normal use over the last year, I have not experienced this. It was only until I consciously tried to make it happen that it happened.

For now I recommend:

Press the button down fully, let it go quickly. Clean contact if the back plate ever gets hot. In my personal experience, I clean the button contact twice yearly.

___________

I am working on a permanent solution for the first batchers.

I applied a thin coating of Vaseline to the contact surfaces. This cured the issue. I was not able to reproduce the arcing issue or heating up back plate, no matter how hard I tried.

BUT, I am still testing this method, I do not recommend it yet. I am going to look into this further to make an official recommendation.

I need to do further resistance testing to make sure the vaseline is not introducing any resistance to the over-all circuit. Or causing any unknown adverse effects. If so, I will be looking at more purpose made conductive lubricants designed for electrical contacts.. they're designed to solve this exact same arcing issue.
 
tepictoton

tepictoton

Well-Known Member
Just woke up to find a mail saying several trips to buttonia (land of those who own buttons) have been opened up...

Question is what is a buttonia?
 
tepictoton,
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duff

duff

Well worn
natural farmer said:
Any of the lucky ones care to show a finished stem load, still in the stem, just to see how even the roasting is?
Click to expand...
Sorry i cleaned out the stem before I read your post, but here is what I emptied out.
Typically I don't go very dark.

Low-medium heater no stir
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Low-medium wake and bake.
It takes a bit of concentration still for me to not really draw. It's more like just putting my lips on the stem.
 
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natural farmer

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
duff said:
Sorry i cleaned out the stem before I read your post, but here is what I emptied out.
Typically I don't go very dark.

Low-medium heater no stir
8MZQnK2.jpg


Low-medium wake and bake.
It takes a bit of concentration still for me to not really draw. It's more like just putting my lips on the stem.
Click to expand...
Thanks bud, seems even enough, although a bit on the raw side for my taste :p, but I wanted to see the heating pattern of the Nomad's heater. Does it still leave a ring of uncooked herb near the stem walls like most convection vapes or not? :)
 
pakalolo

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Xelatsok said:
It is rather function of both.
Click to expand...

I suppose it probably is, to some small degree. I think the influence of the heater design is not significant, however. I know in my experiments, the draw speed is overwhelmingly the cause of centre heating. I can blacken the centre of the load or get perfectly even ABV just by slowing down the draw. The whip from the MagicFlight Orbiter is excellent for demonstrating this principle because it constricts the airflow down to just 3 mm. Even with a gentle draw there is a strong tendency to burn the centre of the load.

natural farmer said:
Well, it's more pronounced in some vapes isn't it? Even the shape of the holes where the hot air comes in plays a role...
Click to expand...

Any design element that alters the airflow will have more effect than changing the heater.

This discussion belongs elsewhere. I apologize to Dan for getting off track.
 
RelaxedNow

RelaxedNow

Well-Known Member
pakalolo said:
I suppose it probably is, to some small degree. I think the influence of the heater design is not significant, however. I know in my experiments, the draw speed is overwhelmingly the cause of centre heating. I can blacken the centre of the load or get perfectly even ABV just by slowing down the draw. The whip from the MagicFlight Orbiter is excellent for demonstrating this principle because it constricts the airflow down to just 3 mm. Even with a gentle draw there is a strong tendency to burn the centre of the load.



Any design element that alters the airflow will have more effect than changing the heater.

This discussion belongs elsewhere. I apologize to Dan for getting off track.
Click to expand...

Any more of this off-track stuff, and I’ll have to notify a modera.......oh, oops, never mind
 
grokit

grokit

well-worn member
No acceptable pics yet but #33's a beaut. I was tied among my three final selections and it was all I could do to keep from bugging @Dan Morrison to try and change it to one of the others. But with it in hand all of that melts away, this is the classiest-looking vape ever and I'm really glad I went with the design I did.

Flower's been a bit hit/miss lately, but I've taken her out for a few test spins and hell yeah. My first few attempts were by the (og) book, and was able to get varied results from light vapor to heavy to bam! if I preheat too long. That med/hi heater can really get it going. Finding a sweet spot was easier once I went with a couple of already-discussed mods, the mighty screen down below and I went another step on the roasting tube screen and jammed one of my og milaana stems into it. I've found my setup folks!

:tup::tup:
 
grokit

grokit

well-worn member
grokit said:
No acceptable pics yet but #33's a beaut. I was tied among my three final selections and it was all I could do to keep from bugging @Dan Morrison to try and change it to one of the others. But with it in hand all of that melts away, this is the classiest-looking vape ever and I'm really glad I went with the design I did.

Flower's been a bit hit/miss lately, but I've taken her out for a few test spins and hell yeah. My first few attempts were by the (og) book, and was able to get varied results from light vapor to heavy to bam! if I preheat too long. That med/hi heater can really get it going. Finding a sweet spot was easier once I went with a couple of already-discussed mods, the mighty screen down below and I went another step on the roasting tube screen and jammed one of my og milaana stems into it. I've found my setup folks!

:tup::tup:
Click to expand...
I meant I jammed one of my og milaana stems screens into it :doh:

edit: here's some pics, will try for better ones soon :cool:

lFaI4mi.jpg


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:science:
 
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