The Nomad From Morwood

SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
Gotcha regarding materials, and sorry to hear about your friend who had a reaction to titanium implants. What were they replaced with to solve the issue and allow him to heal?

I guess e cig and oil vaping is quite a bit different because in the oil vaping world we don't consider coils to be disposable and they're pretty easy to clean... I generally need no morethan alcohol, boiling water, and a ziploc bag, and that was before $40 ultrasonic cleaners became popular.

I've never gotten as accurate TC with ceramic donuts compared to wire heaters. Frequent cleaning is a sign of an inefficient vaporizer as you're removing oils from the vaporizing chamber with your cleaning materials (q tips, rags, alcohol) instead of vaporizing them. I agree that there's huge advantage to convection vaporizers in the heater-cleaning department there. Since the oil doesn't contact the heater, there's no buildup of overheated concentrate to cause an off flavor requiring that cleaning.

I'm pretty excited to see Dan exploring the use of silicon carbide for this vaporizer, it's become my favorite material to vaporize concentrates from!
 

grokit

well-worn member
It's all about individual tolerance. I have a ss staple in one knee and a ti pin in the other, so I am supposedly less tolerant to these metals than someone less "cyborg-ey". Other factors can affect one's tolerance.


Maybe I got you wrong but the tubo is 18mm too. And it's worth getting it also ;):p
:doh: Whoops I meant the mistvape touch, my bad! It's not the first time I've mixed those two up.


I wouldn't want my material touching metal. It's chemically active and likely to react one way or another, especially at high temperature.
One of the reasons I went with the ghost is that it claims to use lower temps than other pens...

The Ghost vape pen is the original low-heat vaporizer pen for oils and waxes. Our Titanium Technology heats to the ideal temperature slowly, instead of burning red hot on contact. This eliminates the burned, electric taste synonymous with vaporizer pens, ensuring you can enjoy the flavor of your oils or waxes.


What were they replaced with to solve the issue and allow him to heal?!
This interests me as well.


:sherlock:
 
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KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Gotta ask him for the implants, but I don't meet him very often. I just recall seeing him all red-faced with severe skin reaction when he still had the allergy and he told me he just had them replaced.

As for the concentrates pens and dab rigs, you guys know better than me so I trust your judgment! :tup:

But first heater will be for flowers apparently, unless Dan wants to really surprise us by releasing several modules at once? Wink! wink! :cool:
 

Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Interesting reads!

Sorry I've been away... the move of my home and shop has been real hectic!

A few thoughts since I've been away... sorry, this will be a long one!

First, Titanium is not inert, @SamuraiSam. Titanium immediately oxidizes in air. This oxide layer is what gives titanium its corrosion/oxidation resistance. Same for aluminum, stainless steel...etc...

This is why titanium is not considered a noble metal like gold.

But essentially it does act like one once that oxide layer is formed. So... close enough!

Nichrome also acts the same way, producing an oxide layer that protects the metal from oxidation, even at extremely high temperatures. This is why it's such a popular heating element material.

This oxide is Chromium (III) Oxide. Widely considered as safe, with a long history of use. Super hard (8-8.5 on the Mohs scale), extremely scratch resistant.

There is another metal that gets its corrosion/oxidation resistance from a thin layer of Chromium (III) Oxide, and that's stainless steel.

Both SS and Nichrome form a protective layer of the exact same oxide.

I always look towards industry when sourcing materials. You don't see stainless being used in industrial applications as a heating wire. Why? Because we have base alloys specifically designed to perform much better in high temperature environments. Stainless just won't last.

In a wide cross section, I think stainless steel will hold up fine for our relatively low temperature purposes, and indeed people do sing its praises for taste. But It's a mystery to me where those taste differences come from. Perhaps it only exists when the metal is un-oxidized, submerged in liquid. Perhaps the liquid composition is chemically reacting to the un-oxidized surface. Or perhaps it has more to do with metal suppliers... variances in composition from one source to another...

This vape world is still young.. and the nuances of what impacts the experience are still to be explored.

In any case, I am exploring a heater designed with very thin ribbon/sheet. The same thickness as a AWG 39 wire. Nichrome behaves very nicely at this thickness, very strong stuff, will survive the heat just fine. But I am worried about stainless. I fear that hot spots will develop over a short period of use.

In choosing my heater material, I went with an industry standard, one that has shown to perform exceptionally under extremely high temperatures with a long life span. I also believe my application is a tad different.. because the metal is allowed to form a chromium oxide layer, there should be no base metal to interact with the air stream.

BUT.... taste..user experience...all this will come into play. And the beauty here is that if you don't like Nichrome (or have an allergy), you can swap in a stainless coil (If I can get stainless to work...that is).

Anyhow.. back to task.

I am on a heater module that I'm very happy with now. Perfectly even heat from wall to wall, no stir, very quick heat up/heat down. Under load It draws about 6 - 6.5 amps. I would rate this at a medium power HM.

I have added a design element. A metal screen between the heater and the chamber. This is both a heat diffuser screen, and keeps material from falling down onto the heating element. Works nicely.

Special Topic Talk!

This is going to get a bit fuzzy/hypothetical....

I am starting to get a feel for what this vape IS. And it's been clear that the ability to swap heater modules is essentially acting as a form of mechanical regulation.

Sure I could offer a single, high powered HM, to cover all bases... just click the fire button ON/OFF, and control draw speed to regulate temperature... but..

Can we reach the performance levels of a regulated device, with a mechanical circuit? Lets discuss.

What IS heat regulation.. anyhow.. What are the goals. Well..easy.. it's to aid in soaking a chamber of herbs with a stream of heated air at a set temperature, regardless of the other variables involved.

All things being equal (airway geometry, heater surface area, bowl size, etc..), what are the ever-changing variables that only control heat output from the heater?

Power into Heater, ambient air temp, air speed. That's about it.

Electronic regulation obviously does a great job of smoothing out those last two variables... it doesn't care what the ambient temperature is.. or the air speed. By constantly changing the power into the heater, the desired end goal is achieved.

But what if there was another way.

In my experience, ambient air temp is a relatively small variable. It's more of a seasonal change, less of an ongoing changing variable. So lets disregard it for now.

Regulation gives you the luxury of keeping the fire button ON, taking a draw, and getting perfect heat. This is what I am after. IMO, fire button ON/OFF time is a tricky way to control heat. It's not user friendly, and it certainly sucks in group settings where no one has any experience.

The fire button ON/OFF regulation techniques should be reserved for experienced users, imo. Not knocking them, not at all, it does give the user a sense of great power... and riding that line can be very enjoyable!

But again.. I am after what I call the equilibrium.

When energy into heater roughly matches the energy going out of said heater (in the form of heat), that is the equilibrium.

If you had a fan at a set speed, moving air through a heater receiving a constant power, heat output should remain perfectly constant.

We need that equilibrium to occur at the users comfortable draw speed, at the users desired temperature.

This is where swappable HM's come into play.

Lets say you enjoy a medium draw speed. You also enjoy a medium/high vaporization temperature.

So you want a HM that will reach that medium/high vaporization temperature, at a medium draw speed. If you keep the draw speed constant, you can keep the fire button ON for as long as you like, the temperature will remain fairly constant.

For those who like hard inhales, or use water tools, you may want to swap in a higher powered heater designed to reach equilibrium at a fast air speed.



With the current medium powered heater, it feels custom fit to me. I just keep the fire button ON, and draw at a perfectly comfortable rate that is easy for me to keep constant. If I decrease my inhale rate I can feel the temperature climbing (and becoming harder to control), if I increase inhale rate, I can feel temperature decreasing.

So.. all this to say that my focus has shifted somewhat... I think that the heater module itself is essentially an infinitely adjustable variable resistor.

Obviously achieving the same level of performance is unrealistic.. since electronic regulation (newer TC) has the advantage of being able to overcome changing variables, like voltage drop, ambient temp, draw speed...

But.. I think we can come close.. and it'll be different.. a new way of looking at regulation.

Okay I'll stop rambling now, haha.

p.s. - Voltage drop, ah yes, can't forget about voltage drop. Yes, it's a variable that needs to be compensated for in other areas, mainly draw speed. You can also swap in a new HM once your battery is under a certain voltage, to gain back the power you lost.
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Would you ever consider designing an atomizer for 510 capable mods? Granted your style is a lot more coach built than that, but its such a capable platform, I'm really surprised the vaporizer community has not embraced it more as a stable power platform.

Frequent cleaning is a sign of an inefficient vaporizer as you're removing oils from the vaporizing chamber with your cleaning materials (q tips, rags, alcohol) instead of vaporizing them.

But don't you Q tip after every hit when you use your SiC Nail? I see frequent cleaning necessary due to plant contaminates such as fats and lipids in the material (ESPECIALLY with flower rosin) not so much as due to inefficient vaporization.
 
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DarkSm0ke

Well-Known Member
We need that equilibrium to occur at the users comfortable draw speed, at the users desired temperature.

This is where swappable HM's come into play.

Lets say you enjoy a medium draw speed. You also enjoy a medium/high vaporization temperature.

So you want a HM that will reach that medium/high vaporization temperature, at a medium draw speed. If you keep the draw speed constant, you can keep the fire button ON for as long as you like, the temperature will remain fairly constant.

For those who like hard inhales, or use water tools, you may want to swap in a higher powered heater designed to reach equilibrium at a fast air speed.



With the current medium powered heater, it feels custom fit to me. I just keep the fire button ON, and draw at a perfectly comfortable rate that is easy for me to keep constant. If I decrease my inhale rate I can feel the temperature climbing (and becoming harder to control), if I increase inhale rate, I can feel temperature decreasing.

So.. all this to say that my focus has shifted somewhat... I think that the heater module itself is essentially an infinitely adjustable variable resistor.

Obviously achieving the same level of performance is unrealistic.. since electronic regulation (newer TC) has the advantage of being able to overcome changing variables, like voltage drop, ambient temp, draw speed...

But.. I think we can come close.. and it'll be different.. a new way of looking at regulation.

This is brilliant Dan! Sometimes I like to hit hard, other times I like a mellow draw. I think this is a unique solution and will help people to use the new vape without much fear of combusting. I know that whenever I share an unregulated vape to a noob I am silently sweating in apprehension that they might combust (the herb, not the person), lol. Also many people have restrictions on how hard they can hit, so this will appease both the hard hitters and the more mellow crowd.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
@Dan Morrison: that's a complex subject and I'm by no means a materials expert. But here are some remarks following your "ramble"...

- Yes the aversion for NiCr is intriguing when you consider that for instance SS316L also contains Ni and Cr, although the main component is Iron (Fe) But small changes in composition do have large impacts on the physical properties, it's such a complex science...

- I think the aversion for pure Nickel wires in the e-cig world is founded. I read a research article once where they examined some e-cigs and they found minute Nickel particles everywhere in the tank as if part of the coils had vaporized. On top of that some people have Nickel allergies... But Ni is not NiCr!

- SS has the advantage of working in TC mode and it's also very easy to work with: it holds its shape super well, you can create wild coils geometries with it.

I am on a heater module that I'm very happy with now. Perfectly even heat from wall to wall, no stir, very quick heat up/heat down. Under load It draws about 6 - 6.5 amps. I would rate this at a medium power HM.

That's interesting. In this case we can use the Panasonic NCR18650GA in protected form (i.e. button top) provided you keep enough room to accommodate the extra length.

As for instance, rewrapped by the Chinese (but relatively ok) KeepPower this item >> http://www.illumn.com/batteries-cha...ah-sanyo-ncr18650ga-protected-button-top.html

Why the protection? Because with one PCB you get: over-charge, over-discharge, over-current, over-temperature and short circuit protection. Not bullet proof but clearly better than nothing. Would make your vape so much idiot-proof.

For the curious people out there >> http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/battery protection UK.html

If you manage to keep your max current draw under 10A, we could even source the protection circuit directly... but no, nevermind, it's too late to integrate that into your design and it would limit everything to 10A (note that it's about the Milaana power output range 30-45W, so not too shabby especially if your heater is more efficient)

PS: I remember that the beefiest BMS for 1S (single cell) I could find last time I checked was 10A. I have a vague memory that I found one in round 18mm format, but a quick search today did not return any (max I could find was 6A, so was it just my imagination?) There are 10A circuits in rectangular format, and there has to exist circuits in round format because there is one inside these KeepPower cells (if they can really do 10A that is)
 
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Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
@invertedisdead, I don't see myself getting into the 510 game. But I'm also surprised that there hasn't been more 510 dry herb atomizers put out as well... It does seem like manufacturers are getting on board this year, so you should have plenty of options soon! I like what RBT is doing!

I know that whenever I share an unregulated vape to a noob I am silently sweating in apprehension that they might combust (the herb, not the person), lol.

Hahah, totally.

@KeroZen, I dig the protected battery, especially for the casual consumer, keeps things much more safe!

And yeah.. integrated protection a no-go. I will definitely be going over 10 amps with some of the Heater Modules.

In other news, I just received word that my bulk order of glass stems are ready. They are German made Simax. I had them diamond saw cut and polished on both ends, giving a nice perfect edge radius. Should be a slightly nicer end treatment compared to the cheaper thermal cut option.

I can offer stems for about ~$5 a piece.
 

sauhamm

Well-Known Member
it's not healthy how much i'm looking forward to getting an email from you saying it's time to preorder... i'm 40 so i can temper my expectations (having a nintendo switch helps...) but damn, i am so very ready! :D
at this point i don't believe Dan is a real person... no one can have this much talent - this is the best long con ever and once the gig is up i'm going to be real damn upset for having believed all this!!!!
 

Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Oh man, so the move has been busy, I've been lurking around, but no time to comment. Sorry to those waiting on things from me, my life is re-emerging from piles of boxes, order will be restored!

New shop space is as dope as ever, hopefully the last shop space I'll ever need.

The time out of the shop has given me lots of testing time, and time to re-think the name.

The name, RM-1, is dead. It just doesn't give me the vibe I'm looking for...

So, after many days of inundating my girlfriend with name after name after name, I've settled on THE name.

The Nomad.

It's a touch organic, ancient, natural. A touch futuristic, spacey, dystopian.

This week I'll be putting the shop back together, and then I'm ready to take pre-orders. I will be posting some final images of the finished working prototype, and all the tech. specs.

The low power Heater Module has been awesome. Takes longer to heat up, about 5 seconds, but it's very easy to control, pretty much zero chance of combustion at nominal voltage of 3.7v, and the battery life just goes and goes and goes.

Something I have noticed with all heater modules is that immediately after a session you can remove the heater module and hold it in your hand no problem, it may be warm, but not hot. I take this as a good sign that the heat is being efficiently used.

The lichen encased in the button is still holding up just fine. The green/blue colour has slightly faded in saturation, but I find that happens with all lichens once they are removed from their natural growing spot.

As with all chamber-in-stem vapes, cleaning is incredibly easy. I'd like to at least include two stems with each Nomad, so you'll always have a backup if one breaks.

There should never be a need to send this vape back for service. The entire button, heaters, etc.. can all be sent to you and easily installed. Everything else is a solid brick with no glue joints.

Anyhow, that's the latest news!
 

Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Love the name! Almost time to rename this thread?

A re-name is required. Yep!

Also, I am re-branding D.M. Pipes to something else. I am pretty set on Morwood.

My last name, Morrison, combined with wood... also, the URL is available.. annd it's nice and fantasy woodsy feeling.

D.M. Pipes had a good run, but I don't make pipes anymore. The future is Vaporizers!
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
This week I'll be putting the shop back together, and then I'm ready to take pre-orders.

Do we have to re-apply or will you contact those who are already in your waiting queue?

No alpha/beta testing phase? Directly into production? Not that there really is much to test with such a simple circuit: either it works or not...

The name is good.
 

ZC

Well-Known Member
Alright now all I need to know is if people who've been on the Okin list will get any type of priority and if not what's the best and fastest way to get on the Nomad list? I'm not realizing you stopped doing the normal Okin email list a while back.

Love the name, suits the vape perfectly and hits all the marks you'd expect for a good name. Easy to remember, easy to google, easy to spell, distinct, etc, etc. It's perfect.

Would the name for your company be Morwood Vapes or just Morwood?
 

Dan Morrison

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
@KeroZen, No need to re-apply. I will contact those who are in the waiting list.

The alpha/beta testing is a tough one... on one hand I do believe that it can be beneficial to smooth out wrinkles in the design... but on the other hand, I spend so much time vetting the design between myself and friends.. I feel like I have already gone through the those phases in-house.

Pre-orders will get a free heater module upgrade. So if you're not satisfied with the supplied HM... (it will be a medium strength) you can upgrade to a lower/high power module, and completely change the experience.

@ZC, Okin mailing list will be informed and included. No worries there. And thanks! The name will just be Morwood. I thought about just doing everything under my name, Dan Morrison, but it turns out my name is very common.. not the best for google search results...

@emmdeemo, oh..my..god.. that is AMAZING, hahahha! I've never actually seen Star Trek (I know, I know), but now I think I have to.

@Stu, Change the name to Morwood, I'm set! Thanks! :)
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
So 3 Ni-Chrome heaters at first? That's begging for people wanting them all! Now I see what you did, sneaky you!!! :brow:

Any idea about the 3 peak power output figures?

SS versions in the pipe?

A discount for the full bundle?

Questions, questions, that's all we have for now! And drool.
 
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