It flipping is, you motherflippers better believe it!
The Nomad From Morwood
- Thread starter Dan Morrison
- Start date
It flipping is, you motherflippers better believe it!
Thanks!
I tried really hard to shave off every tiny bit of un-needed material. The wall thickness is pretty much on the boundary of what is possible with wood.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Any concern about making the wood super thin? I see that Ryan just announced in the Zion thread that the back cover and battery door were deemed too thin for the long run and there were fears they could warp over time (and we're talking about a 6mm thick part I just measured, not really what I would call thin in the first place)
To me it looked more than adequate but he nonetheless scrapped all the parts and has them recut right now. That being said my Firewood 2.1 seems to have way thinner parts and I don't recall any people reporting any issue (mine hasn't seen enough use unfortunately so I can't comment how it would have been in more realistic "on the go" and always in my pocket conditions)
But honestly your vape even in prototype form is so good looking, I think I would always carry it in a protective case or wrapped in something very soft and shielding... Unno, "my preciouuuuuuuuuuus!"
To me it looked more than adequate but he nonetheless scrapped all the parts and has them recut right now. That being said my Firewood 2.1 seems to have way thinner parts and I don't recall any people reporting any issue (mine hasn't seen enough use unfortunately so I can't comment how it would have been in more realistic "on the go" and always in my pocket conditions)
But honestly your vape even in prototype form is so good looking, I think I would always carry it in a protective case or wrapped in something very soft and shielding... Unno, "my preciouuuuuuuuuuus!"
Good question @KeroZen.
No concerns, here's why:
Imagine a steel "I" beam. The strength relies upon the geometry of the whole. Even though the flat pieces of steel that make up the structure of the beam are all thin, and by themselves would never hold the required loads, together they make a structure that is strong in all axis.
A thin, flat, piece of wood is prone to chipping, cracking, warping..etc.. but use the same thickness of wood, as part of a larger solid structure..cut from one single block, with no glue joints, and you can solve these issues.
My design orients the thinnest sections to areas where they will recieve the least stress, and they are always supported by the surrounding thicker sections of wood. The bottom plates are made of brass because this area would recieve too much stress to allow for a solid wood end. The screw fastenings allow for the strongest possible shock resistant bond to protect the wood in case of a drop.
The plates also hold the structure of the wood together, strengthening the side walls considerably from any outwards pressure...not that there ever will be any..
With wood, you also need to consider the physical properties of the wood you're working with. The differences in strength are huge between species, grain orientations, new growth vs. old growth, moisture content...etc...etc..
Wood is always moving, the key to keeping it the shape you want is to lock it into a larger structure. Even with large timber beams... if you don't get them locked into a building frame shortly after they're cut, by next season youll find that they may be too warped to use.
That's why you don't usually store or buy pre-dimensioned wood stock (for fine joinery). You store it rough, then dimension it right before using it in piece.
No concerns, here's why:
Imagine a steel "I" beam. The strength relies upon the geometry of the whole. Even though the flat pieces of steel that make up the structure of the beam are all thin, and by themselves would never hold the required loads, together they make a structure that is strong in all axis.
A thin, flat, piece of wood is prone to chipping, cracking, warping..etc.. but use the same thickness of wood, as part of a larger solid structure..cut from one single block, with no glue joints, and you can solve these issues.
My design orients the thinnest sections to areas where they will recieve the least stress, and they are always supported by the surrounding thicker sections of wood. The bottom plates are made of brass because this area would recieve too much stress to allow for a solid wood end. The screw fastenings allow for the strongest possible shock resistant bond to protect the wood in case of a drop.
The plates also hold the structure of the wood together, strengthening the side walls considerably from any outwards pressure...not that there ever will be any..
With wood, you also need to consider the physical properties of the wood you're working with. The differences in strength are huge between species, grain orientations, new growth vs. old growth, moisture content...etc...etc..
Wood is always moving, the key to keeping it the shape you want is to lock it into a larger structure. Even with large timber beams... if you don't get them locked into a building frame shortly after they're cut, by next season youll find that they may be too warped to use.
That's why you don't usually store or buy pre-dimensioned wood stock (for fine joinery). You store it rough, then dimension it right before using it in piece.
Nothin' too exciting for this update.
Boring the mortise for the glass stem collar.
Mostly been working my way through some other bits n' bobs.. it's all comin' along. With so many little parts that need to come together seamlessly.. I've been doing lots of tests on the side, and making custom tooling... etc.. I often forget to document that sorta stuff.
Boring the mortise for the glass stem collar.
Mostly been working my way through some other bits n' bobs.. it's all comin' along. With so many little parts that need to come together seamlessly.. I've been doing lots of tests on the side, and making custom tooling... etc.. I often forget to document that sorta stuff.
DarkSm0ke
Well-Known Member
Nothin' too exciting for this update.
Boring the mortise for the glass stem collar.
Mostly been working my way through some other bits n' bobs.. it's all comin' along. With so many little parts that need to come together seamlessly.. I've been doing lots of tests on the side, and making custom tooling... etc.. I often forget to document that sorta stuff.
@Dan Morrison your workmanship is unparalleled! I look forward to this new vape. The Okin is not for me, but this one checks all the boxes on my list!
GreenHopper
20 going on 60
Nothin' too exciting for this update.
Boring the mortise for the glass stem collar.
Mostly been working my way through some other bits n' bobs.. it's all comin' along. With so many little parts that need to come together seamlessly.. I've been doing lots of tests on the side, and making custom tooling... etc.. I often forget to document that sorta stuff.
Looking good fella, what are you shooting your pics with? They come out looking so rich and warm with great lighting.
Loving the precision you are working with on this vape.
Quality job mate!
I remain thoroughly impressed
Thanks @GreenHopper, I use an old Canon T2i.
When I'm not concerned so much with colour accuracy, I'll often use VSCO film filters to make the images look as close to 35mm film as possible. VSCO put a ton of work into emulating film, these aren't your typical instagram filters!
I usually darken the highlights, and brighten the shadows, to give it a more 'flat' look, depending on the film I'm trying to emulate.
I use a Canon 60mm 2.8 macro 99% of the time. Other times I'll use older 35mm lenses if I need a wider angle shot.
For lighting, unless I am going for absolute colour accuracy, I prefer regular incandescent bulbs. They give a nice warm light.
When I'm not concerned so much with colour accuracy, I'll often use VSCO film filters to make the images look as close to 35mm film as possible. VSCO put a ton of work into emulating film, these aren't your typical instagram filters!
I usually darken the highlights, and brighten the shadows, to give it a more 'flat' look, depending on the film I'm trying to emulate.
I use a Canon 60mm 2.8 macro 99% of the time. Other times I'll use older 35mm lenses if I need a wider angle shot.
For lighting, unless I am going for absolute colour accuracy, I prefer regular incandescent bulbs. They give a nice warm light.
TNT_error
Well-Known Member
The size and design reminds me of my box mods and ecigs, but sooooo much better. Looking forward to it @Dan Morrison. I forgot, but when will preorders start and how much? Thanks
GreenHopper
20 going on 60
Nice, thanks for sharing. Gotta say your process is definitely working for you. I've not played with VSCO filters yet but might take a punt at their essentials pack.
Got to agree with you regarding the incandescent light bulbs, I've noticed a lot of restaurants have started using stylised incandescent bulbs as they throw a really nice e and warm light. Great for setting the mood
@TNT_error, Thanks! And don't forget that with a simple module change, this is essentially an e-cig as well.
Pricing, not sure yet. Around $300..350... something like that.
I've made some tweaks to the heater modules. Before the modules were housed in a wooden block. I did this because I thought the heater casings would get too hot to touch... and I wanted the ability to swap immediately, the wood block would give a buffer between your fingers and the heater casing. But after testing, I found that with my coil design the heater casing is always cooled by airflow. All the available heat is directed straight into the herb chamber like I had hoped.
So goodbye wood blocks.
The heater modules look exactly like mini shotgun shells now. Still made from stainless. They are inserted straight into the brass mounting plate, just like loading a shotgun.
I could also use 925 sterling silver as the heater casing... but.. shit's expensive. It'd look pretty sweet all polished up though, and carry those electric pixies way better than stainless.
The smaller size of the heater modules gives the added bonus of being able to carry more on the go. You can now load them up into a leather bandolier, or something like that.
Anyhow.. positives all around I think.
Dimensions and appearance still remains exactly the same from the outside. And IMO, it now looks even cooler on the inside.
I also made some tweaks to the electricity track on the back... not that anyone knows what I'm talking about, haha... I don't think I've shown the back yet.
Annnd.. completely redesigned the internals of the button. Before.. you had to undo 3 mounting screws to get to the internals of the button for maintaining the electrical contacts.
Now, it's a single screw. And I've changed a screw connection to a solder joint (increased pixie flow, no maintenance ever). The battery connection pin on the negative side is now "self-cleaning", meaning that it moves, effectively removing invisible oxides as you use it. This sort of sliding connector is used in industry a lot for high amp connectors, seems to be effective at keeping the connection zone clean.
The button housing is more robust, and completely disassemble-able. Where before it was only partially removable. This allows for complete replacement/customization of the button in the future.
And this can all be done by the user, with a single allen key, provided with the unit.
I know most of this makes little sense without context or sharing my trials and tests.. but I just wanted to give an update as to what I've been busy doing these past few days.
I'm at that stage where the thing is working.. it looks cool.. it's almost there.. but it's that last round of refining that really makes it.
Pricing, not sure yet. Around $300..350... something like that.
I've made some tweaks to the heater modules. Before the modules were housed in a wooden block. I did this because I thought the heater casings would get too hot to touch... and I wanted the ability to swap immediately, the wood block would give a buffer between your fingers and the heater casing. But after testing, I found that with my coil design the heater casing is always cooled by airflow. All the available heat is directed straight into the herb chamber like I had hoped.
So goodbye wood blocks.
The heater modules look exactly like mini shotgun shells now. Still made from stainless. They are inserted straight into the brass mounting plate, just like loading a shotgun.
I could also use 925 sterling silver as the heater casing... but.. shit's expensive. It'd look pretty sweet all polished up though, and carry those electric pixies way better than stainless.
The smaller size of the heater modules gives the added bonus of being able to carry more on the go. You can now load them up into a leather bandolier, or something like that.
Anyhow.. positives all around I think.
Dimensions and appearance still remains exactly the same from the outside. And IMO, it now looks even cooler on the inside.
I also made some tweaks to the electricity track on the back... not that anyone knows what I'm talking about, haha... I don't think I've shown the back yet.
Annnd.. completely redesigned the internals of the button. Before.. you had to undo 3 mounting screws to get to the internals of the button for maintaining the electrical contacts.
Now, it's a single screw. And I've changed a screw connection to a solder joint (increased pixie flow, no maintenance ever). The battery connection pin on the negative side is now "self-cleaning", meaning that it moves, effectively removing invisible oxides as you use it. This sort of sliding connector is used in industry a lot for high amp connectors, seems to be effective at keeping the connection zone clean.
The button housing is more robust, and completely disassemble-able. Where before it was only partially removable. This allows for complete replacement/customization of the button in the future.
And this can all be done by the user, with a single allen key, provided with the unit.
I know most of this makes little sense without context or sharing my trials and tests.. but I just wanted to give an update as to what I've been busy doing these past few days.
I'm at that stage where the thing is working.. it looks cool.. it's almost there.. but it's that last round of refining that really makes it.
GreenHopper
20 going on 60
That seems quite reasonable to me for a top tier modularised vape made out of high quality materials by and artisan.
Lock 'n' load? Do you mean to say the bowls containing the material can be loaded lick shells, so you can pre pack a bunch?
How much more expensive? Would it be an option for those happy to pay extra for customisations?
All looking good buddy, thanks for the update.
@GreenHopper, The design could easily go two ways at this point. The heater shells themselves could house both the heater AND the herb chamber. So, to load the herb chamber you need to remove the entire heater.
Or the original design, where the glass stem is packed.
Both designs offer some slight differences in use.
The glass stem pack would allow for the distance between the heater and chamber to be adjusted on the fly. But.. I'm not so sure how necessary this is.
A disadvantage of the stem pack is that you would need to add a screen on top of your packed material every time you pack, then remove it to dump out.
Or else the retaining screen needs to be part of the heater modules, and by inserting the glass stem, you sandwich the material between the heater module screen, and the glass stem screen. This wouldn't allow for distance adjustments between heater and chamber, but it's an option.
If the herb chamber were part of the heater module, it's near impossible to avoid conduction heating without the use of a non conductive chamber liner. Ceramic might do, but it needs to be relatively thick to be strong and effective.. same with wood... both options make the chamber diameter smaller... But.. with the Okin I found a small level of conduction to be beneficial.. so perhaps it's not a big deal.
Thoughts?
Either way, both options will be explored. Only changes to the heater modules need to be made, so I could make both types.
Full conduction or half and half heating styles would most definitely be part of the heater modules.
Same with concentrate dishes, build platforms with juice/wick wells, etc..
So perhaps it makes sense to go with the chamber being part of the heater modules, for continuity throughout the line-up... hmm.
Also, Sterling Silver heater tubes, I'm totally going to go for it, it would just be so cool. Like loading silver bullets! And actually, only adds about $6 material cost per heater module...
Or the original design, where the glass stem is packed.
Both designs offer some slight differences in use.
The glass stem pack would allow for the distance between the heater and chamber to be adjusted on the fly. But.. I'm not so sure how necessary this is.
A disadvantage of the stem pack is that you would need to add a screen on top of your packed material every time you pack, then remove it to dump out.
Or else the retaining screen needs to be part of the heater modules, and by inserting the glass stem, you sandwich the material between the heater module screen, and the glass stem screen. This wouldn't allow for distance adjustments between heater and chamber, but it's an option.
If the herb chamber were part of the heater module, it's near impossible to avoid conduction heating without the use of a non conductive chamber liner. Ceramic might do, but it needs to be relatively thick to be strong and effective.. same with wood... both options make the chamber diameter smaller... But.. with the Okin I found a small level of conduction to be beneficial.. so perhaps it's not a big deal.
Thoughts?
Either way, both options will be explored. Only changes to the heater modules need to be made, so I could make both types.
Full conduction or half and half heating styles would most definitely be part of the heater modules.
Same with concentrate dishes, build platforms with juice/wick wells, etc..
So perhaps it makes sense to go with the chamber being part of the heater modules, for continuity throughout the line-up... hmm.
Also, Sterling Silver heater tubes, I'm totally going to go for it, it would just be so cool. Like loading silver bullets! And actually, only adds about $6 material cost per heater module...
Silicon carbide concentrate dish!
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Hell, if I could have the ability to take a pure on demand convection glass stem style chamber and module for myself, while also carrying another prepacked conduction module or two for use with other people, this may be the most practical versatility I've ever seen in vape
I don't know why I keep letting you astound me so, Dan. I should really be expecting it by now... All the photos are stunning as usual too, always love your progress documentation!
GreenHopper
20 going on 60
I'd prefer not to pack screens in the stem as personally I find this type of pack quite fiddly, especially on the move.
This seems like a better option although I don't have a huge amount of experience with vapes where distance adjustments can be made so I don't know how significant a benefit this is. Some of the others would have to chime in on that one.
Again this is only my personal opinion but I don't mind a bit of conduction. It's not like the herb would be sitting in an oven that takes a while to cool down so it's wasting material. My guess is this would probably add quite a nice vape signature to the hits and the conduction effect would be quite minimal with heat dissipating fairly quickly.
Well if it's modular I guess one can have the best of both worlds so it would be up to the end user to decide what attributes they want. Are the heating modules going to be a significant cost? By this I mean, could one buy two or three heating modules, pre-pack them and then just swap on the go?
If they are more than $50 each then maybe a setup such as @Mr. Me2's query ...heater module -> heating chamber -> stem... would that be possible? Then you could swap the hasting chamber on the go without having to swap the heater module. That would also make it possible to introduce materials like the SiC dish @invertedisdead was suggesting.
Bear in mind I really have very little idea how this vape is actually going to come together and function so I'm just spitballing ideas here.
Ah yeh at that cost I'd definitely be willing to spend the extra on the higher quality material.
tepictoton
Well-Known Member
How about having the load in between the heating module and the stem in a separate 'module'.
Imagine a kind of sliding tray, allowing the user to switch 'loading pods' on the go?
Kind of like these coffee machines nowadays. The pods with different flavors are inserted in between heating part and collecting part of the contraption...
I believe some of the first vapir vaporizers used such a loading tray system.
Imagine a kind of sliding tray, allowing the user to switch 'loading pods' on the go?
Kind of like these coffee machines nowadays. The pods with different flavors are inserted in between heating part and collecting part of the contraption...
I believe some of the first vapir vaporizers used such a loading tray system.
I've never used a pod system, what are the advantages over a non pod system? Could be an option!
@Shit Snacks, Thats the idea! Modules man! Modules!
Thinking more on it.. it makes no diference in crafting time/cost, making stem packed style or heater module packed style. Both need to be explored further, no clear winner yet. Would definitely offer both options if thats what someone wanted.
Being able to adjust distance between heater and chamber isn't such a big deal. Button hold-down-let-off time along with draw speed is all you really need to control the heat.
A heater module with an all glass casing is definitely doable, so that would cut down on conduction if you wanted to have the herb chamber as part of the heater module, while retaining that pure convection functionality.
@GreenHopper, I see the heater modules being under $50, depending on complexity... I've got some more elaborate ones in mind that would most likely be more.
I'd like to have a few basic electric convection heater modules that give you a low-med-high intensity range, that are also fairly cheap..perhaps more like $25.
I agree, no packing screens ontop of herb loads, no fun.
I like your thinking.. with the herb chamber as part of the heater module design, it'd be a snap to drop in a SiC dish, right ontop of, and in contact with, the heater itself. Giving two uses to a single heater module.
I like a lil' conduction too, aint a bad thing. It's more like on-demand conduction, right?
@tepictoton, that idea is a really neat one, I had a few designs using that chamber loading method back when this all started... I guess it was kinda the grandfather idea to the modular heater designs..
I still like the idea, but I always felt like it added a layer of complexity..and reduced versatility. Moving parts and sticky, dusty, materials dont mix well. Add air tight seals into the mix..and it's a real design nightmare. Especially in a vape where space is at a premium.
Still... the idea of sliding a tray-like chamber right into the side..oh man, that'd be pretty cool feeling.
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Conduction on-demand??? Oh yes, please Dan, thank you master!!! More of that please please please??????
Edit: And an option to adjust airflow maybe??? Or has it been mentioned already?
I would essentially love to close the airflow to an extend that allows mouth to lung inhales, like Vapcap, you know...
Bring on the SiC!
Would be cool if the mouthpiece was tapered for a 14mm female joint/hydratube
Would be cool if the mouthpiece was tapered for a 14mm female joint/hydratube
@natural farmer, don't get too excited! I only mean't partial conduction. On-demand full conduction in a manually operated vape is like a paradox.
The airflow is adjustable, yep!
Done!
The airflow is adjustable, yep!
Would be cool if the mouthpiece was tapered for a 14mm female joint/hydratube
Done!
Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
I wish I had personal experience with pods. I've read about them on various threads. I was thinking about Mighty and the upcoming Haze Square. I was just trying to envision a loading system that kept things clean and neat. I hope others with pod experience can weigh in.
I love the sliding tray idea. That seems like a variation on the pod, with an elegant exchange system.
Wish I could provide more insight...
tepictoton
Well-Known Member
How about not having the tray slide out, but make it another little cube that will klick in place above the heater? Maybe with magnets to hold it together? Hope that makes sense