Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by midgetsanchez, Jun 8, 2015.
I'm going on 9 days without myself...it is brutal...
I feel your pain. My gh replacement body is on its way. And it can't get to me soon enough!
They are apparently waiting on new color ti pieces so mine is still forthcoming. Hopefully before Friday it will ship out..
I had tried tighening screen with a pointy dental tool but it kept loosening. Having a good tool (the very pointy tweezers fit into the screen's holes) let me get a stronger torque and screen seems to stay in place. But now that hopper has failed so I'm not sure how long it would have stayed well seated.
Sounds like a good cleaning is what you needed.
You aren't the first person this happened to. Someone else was complaining of the screen coming off every time they removed the front end. A heavy ISO soak and a tight twist of the tweezers, I believe, resolved it.
Your front-end sounds normal. The screen itself should get pretty clean, it looks like SS. There is a brass or copper dome (cooling unit?) as a separate piece in the front end and a hard plastic nipple coming off the back of the screen which gets pretty grungy-looking.
Do you feel like you are getting a tight grip and turn on the screen with the tweezers? It does sound like the screen was never seated properly. It seems to be an endless number of turns to get the screen to fully seat. I swear I must have been twisting for 2 or 3 minutes until it stopped turning. It was the same taking it out. Are you having a similar experience or is it stopping after a few turns?
Hmmm, that copper/brass thing didn't come out of my mouthpiece... Is it possible that piece is missing or stuck in there? I only notice that the screen came out. I did notice a brass, copper color but nothing that was as uniform as that video from the resource thread.
Maybe I'll go home after I have this work call and see if I can find it
parts of mouthpiece:
this all should be in your mouthpiece... ??? maybe this parts are gunked up and therefore stucked in mouthpiece?
The screens get turned if you have a some resin at the top of the threads on the body. Acts like glue against the screen and will turn the screen when you unscrew the mouthpiece. Just keep that top part clean and the screen will never unscrew.
I had a weird experience with the mouthpiece threads last night. I unscrewed the mouthpiece and emptied the chamber like I always do. I didn't refill it or anything. When I went to put the mouthpiece back on it caught on the threading right away and felt very rough. Not at all the normal buttery smooth threading.
The rough feeling was worse was at the very beginning of the threading, and then smoothed out a little but not as much as it should. I feared the worst, that a burr had developed on my body threads and I would have to deal with a warranty claim.
I tried quickly wiping everything off, it didn't help, still rough. It didn't look like there was anything in the threads, at least the ones on the body. It's hard to see the ones in the mouthpiece.
I gave both sets of threads a good scrubbing with iso. Still rough feeling. The cotton swabs were not very dirty at all, I cleaned my hopper thoroughly about two weeks ago. I also tried using a small soft-bristled brush thinking that might work better, but it was no help either.
After cleaning everything up I looked at the body threads under a 30x scope. I was surprised to not see any damage, although it still felt rough.
I had to leave the house so I just left it be, I figured I'd deal with it later. When I got home the threading was buttery smooth again. Something must have got in the inner mouthpiece threads, I don't know what caused it to get loose. Maybe it was a piece of herb and when it dried out after it got wet from cleaning it shrunk and popped out of the threads on its own. That's my best guess. Very weird.
Either way I'm glad to be hopping at 100% again. I've honestly had no problem with the threading before in 10 weeks of ownership. I do a deep clean once a month and that's pretty much it for maintenance. Even that only takes 10-15 minutes.
I almost always load with a doob tube so that helps the threads stay clean.
I blame the gremlins...
Ok that brass piece was stuck in there. So I didn't loose it, thank God. I unscrewed the screen and screwed it back in.
I hope I'm not damaging it. That screen looks pretty diesel though. Once you get a good grip with the tweezers, it's easy to move. I just hope I'm not breaking anything.
I'm contemplating ordering an additional mouthpiece, along with the sleeve, two more silicon tips, and maybe 3 more batteries, LMFAO.
I had the same concern taking it apart the first time. My tweezers kept slipping. It was really hard to get out. I remember thinking "I'm going to need a new front end because I fucking this screen up." It was totally fine when I finally got it out. It seems hella tough not like a normal screen.
There won't be any Ti oxidation at the mouthpiece thread end. Oxidation occurs under voltage/current conditions.
But I know what you mean about the metallic taste... I have no other convection experience so I can't compare it to other similar vapes, but I don't recall ever getting that taste with the Pax. Not that I mind too much... I agree though that the clouds go with the taste, and I like them clouds.
Ditto! In fact, I have yet to even get that screen out. It won't budge... I've tried everything mentioned (soaks, heated, etc), except for muscling it out with those tweezers for fear of damaging it. It's good to know that for all your worries, you hadn't damaged it... perhaps I'll try again...
BUT, it's ALSO good to know that there is that plastic piece that travels directly to the mouthpiece exit. I had thought that there would be resin buildup on the inside of the "cone", but that obviously isn't the case, so, meanwhile, a good pipe cleaning on that tube while it's in the mouthpiece will apparently keep most of the buildup under control. Right?
I have bought my Hopper from Vaposhop. I have to say Vaposhop is a shop with an excellent service.
My Hopper gets hot at the back end from the beginning, and I avoided it, to send my GH in for warranty. Why? It's a long way from Germany-USA-Germany. I do not like to be without my GH so long.
Therefore I contact the Vaposhop. They send me a retourlabel immediatly. Furthermore they will send me a brand new Hopper as soon as my GH arrived their warehouse.
I think better isn't possible :-)
I'm happy, now I have this matter out of my mind
well you have been smarter than me!
I was in your situation, I live in France, I had a SS GH from vaposhop, hot backend as well, but I did send my unit in Boulder Colorado (vaposhop did asked me to do so) and it came back with the following message:
I think future GH iterations should maybe use a strong magnet for the mouth piece so we don't have to worry about keeping threads clean. I hope that's possible.
I made a similar mistake. Caroline sent me a new backend, but that did not work better. Now I have to send my spare-backend back to Colorado.
Now I'm asking myself, why I don't contact the vaposhop immediatly ...
Probably not as magnets lose potency after exposure to heat AFIK.
My Pax is still closing well?
I don't know if this was posted here before, but I'm drooling over this weed /u/CakeBonzai posted on reddit. Seems like the strain is Skywalker Kush or something like that.
Am I the only one removing screen and cone for every cleaning?
IMO if it's not taken apart and each piece cleaned separately every cleaning, it's gonna seize up from resin build up.
GHL should supply a screen removal tool for each device sold IMO.
You can't convince me that the GHL engineers didn't know this when designing.
Maybe they didn't have an original DaVinci vape.
I learned my cleaning lesson on that device.
Anyone having trouble removing it, heat the mouthpiece up with a hair dryer while not on unit.
Hold mouthpiece with a pair of hemostats/pliers and heat that fucker up good.
Then immediately try turning counterclockwise with precision tweezers, found mine at Menards for <$5, might have to screw it back and forth to break any stubborn resin.
After removing screen, you have essentially chased the threads inside clean.
After dismantling I soak all parts in Iso for a few, and then wipe all, and threads clean with q-tips.
Then everybody in the pool to take a quick HOT water soak.
Don't forget about those backend threads, internal contact too.
Hope this helps
Edit: if screen stops unscrewing heat that fucker up again!
For any Mighty owner's the brush is the perfect size to tamp down product.
I am not removing the screen to clean my mouthpiece... as it is not recommended (mentioned) from ghl... the gh manual is recommending to soak the mouthpiece as a whole in iso...
Did you try only soaking the mp in iso... is there any residue after soaking the whole mp without removing screen and then soaking everthing separatly in iso....
I can tell you that I've soaked the mouthpiece in ISO numerous times. Today my screen fell out. And there was definitely stuff still in there. I haven't soaked the mouthpiece that long in ISO so maybe that makes a difference.
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