Discontinued The Grasshopper

[Mr Mellish]

There's a lot people selling grasshoppers on ebay. Are they legit, also does the warranty transfer

I don't think anyone has cloned the GH yet. As far as the warranty, it's lifetime to whoever registers it.

 

[mmafighterthe25]

I don't think anyone has cloned the GH yet. As far as the warranty, it's lifetime to whoever registers it.

It says it's brand new in box in opened guy wants 225 for it I might get it. Currently only using my rockzap which I might sell thinking about it

 

[jabba]

There's a lot people selling grasshoppers on ebay. Are they legit, also does the warranty transfer

For example: I placed my SS Hopper on Ebay today for buy it now $250 including shipping. I paid $285 from VapoShop in the Netherlands and it served as a backup to my current Hopper. I never used it once...brand new...never registered....my mouth has never touched it. I am selling it as I was able to order a titanium....thus I don't need the backup. Some of this is occurring...and some are likely indegogo backers with product to sell.

So long as the Seller has never registered the unit that you purchase....your warranty is golden. I can't speak for all sellers on Ebay....but I've had pretty good luck. Just use common sense and ask questions.

 

[newVaper420]

There's a lot people selling grasshoppers on ebay. Are they legit, also does the warranty transfer

Bobinthesaab is definitely legit. Link was posted here a few pages back. Got mine fast and warranty registered no issue

 

[Joel W.]

Fast (2 flashes per second) Red and blue lights of death on one hopper, after a little over a month.

 

[JoeMama]

Glad to hear that Caroline is on her game.

I just used my new D4 for the first time today and that is one sweet piece of kit!

I just got my D4 today; just starting to use it. Gotta look into this "low" setting stuff...

I'm still waiting on my preorder (address confirmed ), but it sounds like it won't be coming with the sleeve I ordered last year. I find it surprising that HL could be out of stock on such a simple accessory for so long.

OK Thanks... I can't believe they are backordered on such a thing, yeah. Smells funny.

I didn't expect that you'd make that recommendation, but you were replying to a post where I exclusively discussed the mouthpiece threads. Since I'm now pretty sure that what we are wiping off of the threads is actually ground up titanium, we may be better served with a with a titanium-safe lubricant on the threads. I bet we can even manage something food safe if we mix some sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) with an alkaline or neutral H-1 food-safe grease. If you have a SS, it probably doesn't matter much either way.

Since I was getting all sorts of TI dust off the backend threads, I felt it was quite possible its also coming off the mouthpiece threads. It is. I cleaned my whole unit and didn't use it for a week. No battery was inserted. I did remove the front end a few times per day. At the end of the week, I swabbed the front threads and pulled off what appears to be a significant amount of tiny long shavings and "dust."

I've just finished soaking it for 48 hours in 99% ISO. I've also disassembled the front end entirely. I'm going to repeat the test with 100% certainty that the front end threads are starting in a completely clean state. I'm fairly certain they were last round, but this is super duper certain. I'm not even going to put the screen and components back in the front end for this test. Just to remove all doubt about what I am seeing.

Ah, Green, I see what I did there... I conflated your statement with @jabba's question about DetoxIT. Pardon!

I have never seen anything that looks like "shavings", but definitely that gray smudgy stuff. I've assumed it was oxidation... If it is titanium dust, well, heck! But it still is conductive, I guess. At any rate, dust/residue is bad, m'kay?

Originally I was a Pax 1 user, and to keep the thing working, the mouthpiece had to be slightly lubed with Propylene Glycol, a food-safe conductive lubricant. Perhaps this on (clean) threads? If that works, maybe Detoxit becomes less critical for routine maintenance.

I got some Propylene Glycol, so I'm gonna give it a whirl.

 

[MonkeyTime]

I just got my D4 today; just starting to use it. Gotta look into this "low" setting stuff...



OK Thanks... I can't believe they are backordered on such a thing, yeah. Smells funny.



Ah, Green, I see what I did there... I conflated your statement with @jabba's question about DetoxIT. Pardon!

I have never seen anything that looks like "shavings", but definitely that gray smudgy stuff. I've assumed it was oxidation... If it is titanium dust, well, heck! But it still is conductive, I guess. At any rate, dust/residue is bad, m'kay?

Originally I was a Pax 1 user, and to keep the thing working, the mouthpiece had to be slightly lubed with Propylene Glycol, a food-safe conductive lubricant. Perhaps this on (clean) threads? If that works, maybe Detoxit becomes less critical for routine maintenance.

I got some Propylene Glycol, so I'm gonna give it a whirl.

I like the sound of the PG, I have a bottle as well and will be trying this later tonight. Grand idea!

 

[jabba]

I just got my D4 today; just starting to use it. Gotta look into this "low" setting stuff...



OK Thanks... I can't believe they are backordered on such a thing, yeah. Smells funny.



Ah, Green, I see what I did there... I conflated your statement with @jabba's question about DetoxIT. Pardon!

I have never seen anything that looks like "shavings", but definitely that gray smudgy stuff. I've assumed it was oxidation... If it is titanium dust, well, heck! But it still is conductive, I guess. At any rate, dust/residue is bad, m'kay?

Originally I was a Pax 1 user, and to keep the thing working, the mouthpiece had to be slightly lubed with Propylene Glycol, a food-safe conductive lubricant. Perhaps this on (clean) threads? If that works, maybe Detoxit becomes less critical for routine maintenance.

I got some Propylene Glycol, so I'm gonna give it a whirl.

PG is half as conductive as water. I'm dubious of your experiment. I'm curious about the conductive grease mentioned yesterday....the deoxit is most def not working for me.

 

[JoeMama]

PG is half as conductive as water. I'm dubious of your experiment. I'm curious about the conductive grease mentioned yesterday....the deoxit is most def not working for me.

Well thanks for that data point! I suppose a perfectly conductive relatively safe and not greasy lubricant is a Holy Grail at this point. I'm not crazy about anything that has the word "grease" in it.

Though I just tried the PG... sumbitch it works. It seems to. I had a flashing blue battery before the treatment, and first click after screwing it together gave me solid blues for the whole draw.

More testing...

EDIT: @jabba gets the ... the second hit I took off the hopper after the treatment with the PG, the backend got hotter than it ever had since I've used it. It must have been that the threads had been freshly doused, but the heat may've dried it up a bit. Going to do a full clean and then Detoxit Gold (DG) and call it a day.

 

[Vapor_Eyes]

I'd still like to hear back from @kingfisher about what specific di-electric grease product he used to solve his heat issues.

 

[MonkeyTime]

Well thanks for that data point! I suppose a perfectly conductive relatively safe and not greasy lubricant is a Holy Grail at this point. I'm not crazy about anything that has the word "grease" in it.

Though I just tried the PG... sumbitch it works. It seems to. I had a flashing blue battery before the treatment, and first click after screwing it together gave me solid blues for the whole draw.

More testing...

EDIT: @jabba gets the ... the second hit I took off the hopper after the treatment with the PG, the backend got hotter than it ever had since I've used it. It must have been that the threads had been freshly doused, but the heat may've dried it up a bit. Going to do a full clean and then Detoxit Gold (DG) and call it a day.

I can second this, my back end got hotter with the pg, back to the Deoxit...

 

[newVaper420]

Wow I have been having great sessions with my Grasshopper. I did get shipment confirmation of my 3 extra batteries (bringing total to 5) and 2 extra mouthpieces.

Is there anyway to return the silicon mouthpiece to like new condition?

I must say, in the 4 years since owning my Cloud, this has been the first time the Cloud has actually been away. I've just been using the hopper. Wow, what a piece of kit. I mean, I wanted to believe when people said it was a portable Cloud. But it really is.

To steal and quote a popular statement from @ataxian

"grasshopper = civilized"

:-)

 

[Mr. Me2]

Wow I have been having great sessions with my Grasshopper. I did get shipment confirmation of my 3 extra batteries (bringing total to 5) and 2 extra mouthpieces.

Is there anyway to return the silicon mouthpiece to like new condition?

I must say, in the 4 years since owning my Cloud, this has been the first time the Cloud has actually been away. I've just been using the hopper. Wow, what a piece of kit. I mean, I wanted to believe when people said it was a portable Cloud. But it really is.

To steal and quote a popular statement from @ataxian

"grasshopper = civilized"

:-)

I haven't heard anyone being able to clean their mouthpiece cover to like new condition. Do you use it natively or through a water tool? I have not needed to use it once. I find that with adjusting lip placement and leisurely pacing, it's not needed. Have you tried that? It's just one less thing to have to futz with. Now I get that it's different if you are using it to make a tight seal...

 

[vapviking]

I want to ring in on a couple of unrelated topics.
I emailed support@hopperlabs about leather sleeve I should have received with Ti order last month and got a same-day response from Caroline. She will mail my sleeve when they come back into stock; that should be within about two weeks. It does seem odd that there's no apparent notation of 'back order' on the invoice...

I am not among those applying any lubes, oils, greases, degreasers, detergents or any other such thing to any part of the Hopper, with the exception of iso alcohol. I simply acknowledge that I don't know the risks involved, to either health or hopper. MSDS sheets are pretty much Greek to me, aside from my general skepticism about them and about product safety.
The most recent suggestion, propylene glycol may be food safe, but in my 'lay' experience, any lubricant can also become a collector of grit, dirt or dust.
HL has not, to my knowledge, recommended application of anything to the Hopper other than cleaning the mouthpiece with alcohol. I'm just trying to keep everything as clean as I can. If hopper stops working or starts misbehaving, I'll send it to the manufacturer to deal with.

I do remember fun and spirited discussion many, many months ago having suggested the use of nose-grease-as-lube for hopper threads -- it's always handy and available! What was that more 'official' name for it?

 

[newVaper420]

I want to ring in on a couple of unrelated topics.
I emailed support@hopperlabs about leather sleeve I should have received with Ti order last month and got a same-day response from Caroline. She will mail my sleeve when they come back into stock; that should be within about two weeks. It does seem odd that there's no apparent notation of 'back order' on the invoice...

I am not among those applying any lubes, oils, greases, degreasers, detergents or any other such thing to any part of the Hopper, with the exception of iso alcohol. I simply acknowledge that I don't know the risks involved, to either health or hopper. MSDS sheets are pretty much Greek to me, aside from my general skepticism about them and about product safety.
The most recent suggestion, propylene glycol may be food safe, but in my 'lay' experience, any lubricant can also become a collector of grit, dirt or dust.
HL has not, to my knowledge, recommended application of anything to the Hopper other than cleaning the mouthpiece with alcohol. I'm just trying to keep everything as clean as I can. If hopper stops working or starts misbehaving, I'll send it to the manufacturer to deal with.

I do remember fun and spirited discussion many, many months ago having suggested the use of nose-grease-as-lube for hopper threads -- it's always handy and available! What was that more 'official' name for it?

I'm in complete agreement regarding lubes and chemicals and stuff. I never even used PG on my pax. Just cleaned thoroughly.

----

In other news this morning I experienced a hot backend. I'm not sure if it was a fluke or a sign of things to come. Anyhow still performed like a champ so that was fine.

Also is it ok to leave the battery charging in the nitecore d4 all day? I would assume once it's up to spec that it would be turned off or whatever.

Lastly, I love how the voltage is 4.20 hahaha. I know that is just a coincidence. But it's awesome. LOL.

Is it ok to use iso on the silicon mouthpiece?

Thanks for all your help guys. I love this thing.

 

[moondog]

I'm in complete agreement regarding lubes and chemicals and stuff. I never even used PG on my pax. Just cleaned thoroughly.

----

In other news this morning I experienced a hot backend. I'm not sure if it was a fluke or a sign of things to come. Anyhow still performed like a champ so that was fine.

Also is it ok to leave the battery charging in the nitecore d4 all day? I would assume once it's up to spec that it would be turned off or whatever.

Lastly, I love how the voltage is 4.20 hahaha. I know that is just a coincidence. But it's awesome. LOL.

Is it ok to use iso on the silicon mouthpiece?

Thanks for all your help guys. I love this thing.

According to the d4 instructions, it will stop charging automatically once the battery is fully charged.

 

[Mr. Me2]

I'm in complete agreement regarding lubes and chemicals and stuff. I never even used PG on my pax. Just cleaned thoroughly.

----

In other news this morning I experienced a hot backend. I'm not sure if it was a fluke or a sign of things to come. Anyhow still performed like a champ so that was fine.

Also is it ok to leave the battery charging in the nitecore d4 all day? I would assume once it's up to spec that it would be turned off or whatever.

Lastly, I love how the voltage is 4.20 hahaha. I know that is just a coincidence. But it's awesome. LOL.

Is it ok to use iso on the silicon mouthpiece?

Thanks for all your help guys. I love this thing.

Regarding your hot backend, just confirming you're talking about your gh...

Otherwise it's a little scary, and possibly inappropriate (or at least tmi).

 

[vapviking]

Lastly, I love how the voltage is 4.20 hahaha. I know that is just a coincidence. But it's awesome. LOL.

Me, too! What a hoot!

 

[Baron23]

According to the d4 instructions, it will stop charging automatically once the battery is fully charged.

True but I still don't leave them in there. They will, I believe, trickle charge if left in there long enough to lose just a bit of charge. With Li Ion batteries, its best to not fully charge them and not fully discharge them for longer life. But this is near impossible and way to anal for me. $7 for batteries...if they last six months, I'm happy.

 

[UnshavenFish]

Also is it ok to leave the battery charging in the nitecore d4 all day? I would assume once it's up to spec that it would be turned off or whatever.

I personally never do, if I'm charging I'm in the room or nearby.

The chances of anything happening are very slim, many people leave cells in chargers with no issue, when the charger reads full it will stop just like when you press the brakes in your car it stops but as with most things in life not everything works 100% of the time, parts can break, wear out, get damaged or even be put together wrong.

Just to add to this...

Dammit.

Got home last night, smelled burning electronics and figured out that my nitecore charger almost melted!

I'll have to order another one...so milaana usage will be low today.

Stay safe ya'll

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/t...lated-single-18650.18829/page-167#post-988143

Thankfully @WakeAndVape was lucky here and everything was ok, unlucky that it went wrong but lucky that he had a home to come back to.

Anyway I'm not trying to worry/scare anyone by posting this I just think when we are dealing with something that has the potential to go wrong in the way it can we should treat it with a bit of respect.

 

[greenextinguisher]

I have never seen anything that looks like "shavings", but definitely that gray smudgy stuff. I've assumed it was oxidation... If it is titanium dust, well, heck! But it still is conductive, I guess. At any rate, dust/residue is bad, m'kay?

Originally I was a Pax 1 user, and to keep the thing working, the mouthpiece had to be slightly lubed with Propylene Glycol, a food-safe conductive lubricant. Perhaps this on (clean) threads? If that works, maybe Detoxit becomes less critical for routine maintenance.

I didn't send anything off to the lab, so I really don't know what it is, but if you look closely at my swab, there are a lot of little black/gray "sticks" mixed in:

Grasshopper Threadds

The bits of resin you see in the photo are from rolling around on that slick pad (I know, shit process, but that stuff was invisible without optical/digital assistance)

You can also see that the threads are pretty chewed up. I wouldn't notice either thing if I were looking with the naked eye. TBH, I don't even know what is Ti on the Ti model. The front end may be SS threads on Ti threads for all I know. Ti is a better metal to have in your (human) body, if have to have a metal in your body.

The reason why I stress being careful with gunked up thread is, thinking back to when I first got these, I started with the Ti. I used the scoop-from-grinder technique to load. I had some particularly sticky stuff and it tightened up the threads quite a bit. I was pretty much only using the Ti at the time and I was generally doing a shit job of it. Constantly checking to see if my material was getting vaped. It's possible that I was abusing the threads very hard and that chewed them up. Now they are potentially flaking metal. Yours may be fine, if you didn't have an incident with seized threads.

PG is half as conductive as water. I'm dubious of your experiment. I'm curious about the conductive grease mentioned yesterday....the deoxit is most def not working for me.

I believe the grease mentioned was dielectric, which actually means it's an insulator. What may be best and what is well-known in other applications of metal threads, is the addition of baking soda to lube when applying to threads. 1) it makes sure the lube ends up alkaline so it won't react with the metal. but also 2) it may increase the conductivity of the substance.

I really don't know if are better off with an insulator or a conductive material in the threads. We don't honestly know what is correlation and causation.

I want to ring in on a couple of unrelated topics.
I emailed support@hopperlabs about leather sleeve I should have received with Ti order last month and got a same-day response from Caroline. She will mail my sleeve when they come back into stock; that should be within about two weeks. It does seem odd that there's no apparent notation of 'back order' on the invoice...

I am not among those applying any lubes, oils, greases, degreasers, detergents or any other such thing to any part of the Hopper, with the exception of iso alcohol. I simply acknowledge that I don't know the risks involved, to either health or hopper. MSDS sheets are pretty much Greek to me, aside from my general skepticism about them and about product safety.
The most recent suggestion, propylene glycol may be food safe, but in my 'lay' experience, any lubricant can also become a collector of grit, dirt or dust.
HL has not, to my knowledge, recommended application of anything to the Hopper other than cleaning the mouthpiece with alcohol. I'm just trying to keep everything as clean as I can. If hopper stops working or starts misbehaving, I'll send it to the manufacturer to deal with.

I do remember fun and spirited discussion many, many months ago having suggested the use of nose-grease-as-lube for hopper threads -- it's always handy and available! What was that more 'official' name for it?

I'm in complete agreement regarding lubes and chemicals and stuff. I never even used PG on my pax. Just cleaned thoroughly.

I also have not applied anything to the threads but iso, but in virtually all applications of titanium threads, it is know that they eventually can gall/seize. That's why all three of my Ti flashlights came pre-greased and with an extra packet of lube for reupping. I do way fewer battery swaps on those.

I think lithium grease is most commonly used and I think that would be safe for the backend, but its not something I'd consider in the front end. Actually, I think most of the recommended substrates have evaporation temps of 350F or lower, so really not great options for the front-end threads.

I forgot about nose grease!

OK, going back to just enjoying my hopper for a week while the other one sits as a science project. It's nice having two.

 

[Mr. Me2]

I personally never do, if I'm charging I'm in the room or nearby.

The chances of anything happening are very slim, many people leave cells in chargers with no issue, when the charger reads full it will stop just like when you press the brakes in your car it stops but as with most things in life not everything works 100% of the time, parts can break, wear out, get damaged or even be put together wrong.

Just to add to this...



http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/t...lated-single-18650.18829/page-167#post-988143

Thankfully @WakeAndVape was lucky here and everything was ok, unlucky that it went wrong but lucky that he had a home to come back to.

Anyway I'm not trying to worry/scare anyone by posting this I just think when we are dealing with something that has the potential to go wrong in the way it can we should treat it with a bit of respect.

And that's why I always unplug my Nightcore after each use.

 

[newVaper420]

I personally never do, if I'm charging I'm in the room or nearby.

The chances of anything happening are very slim, many people leave cells in chargers with no issue, when the charger reads full it will stop just like when you press the brakes in your car it stops but as with most things in life not everything works 100% of the time, parts can break, wear out, get damaged or even be put together wrong.

Just to add to this...



http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/t...lated-single-18650.18829/page-167#post-988143

Thankfully @WakeAndVape was lucky here and everything was ok, unlucky that it went wrong but lucky that he had a home to come back to.

Anyway I'm not trying to worry/scare anyone by posting this I just think when we are dealing with something that has the potential to go wrong in the way it can we should treat it with a bit of respect.

Ok no worries. I have told my wife to take the battery out of the charger (as she is home).

I always have someone home, but not necessarily thinking that there is a battery in the charger. So better to be safe than sorry. I'll have to devise a different method of charging my morning battery. Maybe I'll use the included USB at work. By Friday, I'll have 3 more batteries (bringing total up to 5).

----

Anyone use ISO on the silicon mouthpiece? Does it do anything?

 

[Vapor_Eyes]

I personally never do, if I'm charging I'm in the room or nearby.

The chances of anything happening are very slim, many people leave cells in chargers with no issue, when the charger reads full it will stop just like when you press the brakes in your car it stops but as with most things in life not everything works 100% of the time, parts can break, wear out, get damaged or even be put together wrong.

Just to add to this...



http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/t...lated-single-18650.18829/page-167#post-988143

Thankfully @WakeAndVape was lucky here and everything was ok, unlucky that it went wrong but lucky that he had a home to come back to.

Anyway I'm not trying to worry/scare anyone by posting this I just think when we are dealing with something that has the potential to go wrong in the way it can we should treat it with a bit of respect.

I just want to add that @WakeAndVape likely had a counterfeit charger. I still advise caution when charging, but the first step towards safety is making sure you are buying a safe product. If the product isn't safe it doesn't matter if you use the best practices when working with it, it's still going to be an unsafe product.

http://charger.nitecore.com/counterfeit-alert-to-nitecore-charger-buyers

Not sure...it was left plugged in with a battery inserted.

Noticed an electronic burn smell and realized it wasn't responding, turned it over and the plastic was deformed slightly and the charger was really hot?


Got mine from amazon...it is sticker free!

Probably a fake. Two slot digital charger for $15?

Luckily I got an authentic (al least I hope) nitecore 4 slot for $32 locally.

They had it improperly marked, so I saved $8

Thanks man! I'll probably contact the seller on amazon for clarification of its authenticity and report back!

 

[Mr. Me2]

Ok no worries. I have told my wife to take the battery out of the charger (as she is home).

I always have someone home, but not necessarily thinking that there is a battery in the charger. So better to be safe than sorry. I'll have to devise a different method of charging my morning battery. Maybe I'll use the included USB at work. By Friday, I'll have 3 more batteries (bringing total up to 5).

----

Anyone use ISO on the silicon mouthpiece? Does it do anything?

Not enough time to complete a charge if you pop batteries in when you wake up and take them out before you leave for work?