The Grasshopper

I added this to the Grasshopper Fixes resource: http://fuckcombustion.com/resources/grasshopper-fixes.11/

 

So I got my leather case from Delta3DStudios and I gotta say, the quality here is excellent and the design is well thought out. Couldn't be happier.

I ordered a bunch of other items as well, and they all work and fit great. @Ratchett even threw in a mini loading funnel on top of the regular one I ordered.

 

I've been noticing that inconsistent flashing blue as well; thanks for the possible solution on my end.

On this issue,
I don't know about anyone else, but sometimes I've accidentally turned the temp dial when I'm absent-mindedly attempting to unscrew the backend. After I berate myself accordingly, my second thought is that perhaps I really didn't tighten it enough. That backend does take several turns to be tight.
If it were a flashlight or radio, it'd be fine, but I suppose since this thing needs supremely good current conduction to be efficient, those connections have to be considered critical. Makes me wonder if it would be better if it had gold-plated contacts. I'm no metallurgist but that ain't no gold in dem dar hoppers.

<Sidebar>: Is it correct to say that the clip is OK to hold onto whilst tightening the backend?

 

Is anyone else able to login on the GH website? I had yet another hopper bite the dust last night and can't even log in on the website to file a claim.

 

do not push the clip down when screwing backend on otherwise you could scratch your hopper ...

 

My Ti Hopper finally arrived (July 2015 order). I've had 5 days with it and I am throughly impressed after all the wait. I'm afraid I have to take a T break since I've been playing with it all this time.

Initial unboxing impression was how light the Ti model is and thought at first perhaps the battery was missing. Nope it was there.

Other things noted (most of these have already probably been mentioned):
- I experienced the whole unit getting warm but dissipated somewhat eventually but was not the uncomfortable.
- The tip did feel uncomfortable after the unit got warmer. I finally got the hang of clicking it off as soon as it got hot and continue to draw until cool.
- Little to no learning curve.
- I'm impressed with using it with water but I feel I can use it as is with silicone tip.
- 3-3.5 dialed in seems to be my sweet spot.
- Battery life is what I expected after reading other reviews.

I can go on but feel my report would be redundant. But after using it for a period of time it's been a terrific experience for me and I hope it continues (knock on wood).

For those who own or have used one, thanks for posting all of your experiences so I knew what to expect and look out for rather than be clueless.

 

The gold rubbed off on my headphone jack and I don't notice a difference.
I'm fairly sure that as long as there is good contact, conductivity should not be improved by gold to the point of measurable difference.
More often it is used to resist corrosion.

I am dubious over if something like this is occurring. Anyone have any comments? I have wiped many a carbon off my battery and brass plating...

 

Yes! This I suspect was the problem with a faulty unit I have used. The battery also had grey/black spattered singe marks on the negative end of the battery. This unit had issues with hot back end.

Are these custom batteries perhaps not all quite the right size? Or alternatively the battery chamber not machined to the right tolerances? I think the batteries may have a QC issue here. Does anyone who has a lot of batteries wanna measure the length of each of their batteries and report back? Let's get to the bottom of this!

I'll see if I can get some measurements on the offending battery too

 

That Reddit post headlines with "3.7 V, 25 Amps". That has to be a typo. That's a 100 Watt battery!

As for the gold, I suppose it wouldn't make a difference, but I still think drawing that much current to the heater so quickly must have presented conductivity issues (over the entire circuit, not just the battery contacts)...

Bellevue it or not, there are some people who can tell the difference between gold and copper contacts on speaker cable connections.

 

Silver would actually be better than gold. Most of the top shelf audio cables are silver these days. Audiophiles are dipshits and I include myself in that statement.

I noticed a good bit of 'stuff' on my battery contacts for both units. I cleaned them with some ISO. I also cleaned the threads.

 

I got the flickering tonight but I didn't notice any decreased performance. I tried this fix and the flickering stopped immediately.

 

Good point!
I also have noticed gunk on my batteries bulding up (on one battery have more gunk, also I Haventhe feeling this battery does not perform as good asmthe others.....)... do you believe it is because of bad connections and is it dangerous.... maybe that is a reason why backends got hotter.... should we conntact ghl?

 

GH arrived... Not bad, but I had a Milaana back in my hand in 10 minutes as my battery was dying. I am really not impressed with the heat at tip. I am going to give it a chance before selling, but my search continues. Any advice to change my opinion is so welcome. I also have a Ti Hopper on preorder with all accessories, so I want to love this vape...

TIA

 

Hey @Bravesst ! Have you tried not drawing from the very tip? If you try placing your lips further down the mouthpiece, it makes a big difference. Also, I suggest you wait for the gh to cool down between pulls.

Let us know if this helps you and starts your gh bromance.

 

@Mr. Me2
It's coming out and about with me today, fingers crossed. Thanks for the tips!

 

Fidelity is the same through a monster cable or a coat hanger. I choose not to believe.
Copper is normally coated in nickel too, then gold (nanometers). Electron transfer still has to travel through oxygen free copper or a bare metal capacitor. (Silver if you're serious, and why not with a $10k set up or the likes).
I own gold plated cables because I like their braided look and they have good shielding (this is what you want) and don't mind spending a bit for the sake of aesthetics.
But it really is for specific resilience to corrosion.

That's funny with the battery, I found the pic and linked the attached thread to explain what it was.

I think the added resistance from a dirty contact is causing heat build up.

There's also the hard to clean contact on the PCB which might have a bad effect on the overall circuit.

 

And I get to try that fix for the flickering blue lights... Thanks so much for that tip @johnnyCanuck !

So...first test failed, but the battery died mid test. So when I went to swap out batteries, I noticed a little "dirt" on the end of the battery. I was able to scrape it off with my thumbnail.

Then I looked at the end of the gh (the contact point for the battery). And there was more gunk there. I was able to remove that stuff with my thumbnail too.

Replaced the battery and took it for a test run. And no more flickering blue lights!

Moral of the story... In addition to @johnnyCanuck's twisting solution, look for buildup on the end battery contact point (and on the battery), and remove.

Happy hopping!

 

I actually agree about the choosing not to believe about monster cables and coat hangers. I myself cannot tell the difference.

Ok so it's settled: dirty contacts suck. Watch for them and keep them clean.

 

I find the best material to improve listening quality is cannabis
Or a tryptamine, or a phenethylamine depending on the beat.

I think that's probably good advice, but it's hard to say how much of an issue it is.

It seems likely that this latest 'fix' to the blue light flicker may have something to do with gunk in the threads limiting conductivity, where a proper ISO + microfibre wipe may be a better solution.

 

Another entry for the Fix-it resource?

 

So both my SS hoppers worked perfect in morning but finally got fed up with the goo build up in the mouthpiece as it was starting to clog and decided to clean them. I had yet to clean beyond brushing after every load for about 2 months. I did as they say and just dropped the mouthpieces in iso only for about 30 sec as it made me nervous (everything does with this damn thing). Used a q tip to wipe until shiny and clean. Let sit for a few hours and made sure no iso was left. Even gave them a few dry runs before loading. Now the blue lights flicker right away on full batts, the back end seemingly heats up way too quick and too much and the vapor and abv are very light...For both hoppers....That were both working fine hours before. I have had inconsistencies with my 5 batts but for the most part they all gave me at least a solid load with 4-5 good long strong hits that leave perfectly extracted dark abv. I'm addicted to this damn hopper and nothing else seems to work as well...the small silver lining is it is so damn powerful that I seem to still be getting a lil medicated from the whispy pulls..lol..I'll take what I can get.. Any advice is appreciated I know I've heard peeps mention issues after cleaning...hence my apprehension ...​

 

Check out the gh resources page for fixes you can try. Hope that solves all your problems!

 

There is a difference, but you have to either be able to detect it electronically with meters or you have to be in some pretty close to perfect acoustic conditions.

As an electrician, I was remodeling a very large electronics retail store when a Bose rep came in for a demo. They actually build a room inside the store with each and every speaker placed in its optimal position. It's really something to hear. But there is ZERO furniture and nothing but people which they limit and other speakers breaking up the sound. The two same speakers from the same source playing the same channel did have a difference in sound, to my ear, mostly volume lol. But to test him I went behind the equipment and changed the speaker wires to make sure his special track that played the same sound from right and left channels wasn't rigged, the same speaker was still softer in volume.

With all that said, I have very cheap speaker wire for all my short runs except the subwoofer to about $4k in Klipsch speakers. I believe in the theory, but real world is where I live and the benefit doesn't match the price in my mind lol.

Gold conducts electricity incredibly well, but has so many limitations including cost that it's only used at the termination ends of cable. It would make for a great set of contacts on this device IF it can withstand the heat.

I stand by my original belief that all of the back end and blue light issues are because of poor connections. Their decision to make this a wireless unit still needs some fine tuning in the design. Until then, check the battery and contacts for pitting/tarnishing and make sure all the threading is iso clean. As long as the clip stays firmly connected so it's not a hotspot, the only other item is the temp dial. Sounds like compressed air might be the easiest even though the thought scares me. Blown out or deeper into crevices is what you get with air..... I like to vacuum.

Sorry for the off topic, but it's sorta theory based for the GH electrical heat issues.

 

Added to Grasshopper Fixes resource. Keep those contacts clean people! I give my battery contacts a quick wipe with a soft cloth every time I insert a new one into my hopper. I usually just use my shirt. I've never noticed any buildup on the contacts.

 

I'm rather with Molten on this....gold is for corrosion resistance and I don't think it justified in audio cables (but it looks nice) and suspect it would not be useful in the GH.

I'm with Molten on twisted shielded cable for noise reduction...but we are talking conductivity

On the other hand, I'm about 1/2 deaf these days so don't listen to a thing I say about audio quality! LOL