The Chinese SJK Induction Heater and The VapCap

[vapcat]

Well in that case I’m pretty convinced it’s the residue on the cap from kief, dust, etc. I know my fingers are often sticky after I’m done packing. And that is consistent with your observation that it occurs on the first heat up.

Edit: I misread your post.. but for me it does happen on my first heat up after handling the cap, then it burn off so on subsequent heat ups nothing wisps out.

I use a small nail as a poker and stoker and once the point gets gunky I stick it in the IH, it lets off a similar but thicker wisp and then it’s very easy to wipe off

 

[Hackerman]

I am still consistent with the fact that it only happens on one out of 3 of my caps, which is pretty odd.

I was reading up a little on the induction heating process and the creation of magnetic fields and the effect it has on 2 different metals pressing against each other (Ti and Stainless) and the eddy current created and all the other stuff just screams 'pressure build-up'.

If you recall my recent posts where the cap was jumping right off an almost straight up VapCap, it's obvious that either opposing magnetic forces are causing a 'pressure' build-up. Or, the process is requiring O2 and it it drawing it from the path of least resistance (which would be through the mouthpiece) and creating a 'flow' out of the cap.

Here is something to try....... hold your finger over the mouthpiece so no air can go down the tube. Tell me if it still wisps.

Thanks

 

[LesPlenty]

I have noticed a sound like crayfish being cooked along with the whisp so there is some pressure difference there somewhere.
Edit, Blocking the MP did not stop the whisp.

 

[Hackerman]

Blocking the MP did not stop the whisp.

Thanks

EDIT: Come to think of it, was this on a 'non'carb' stem? Just wondering if the air sneaked in the carb.

 

[Ricardo]

I have noticed a sound like crayfish being cooked along with the whisp so there is some pressure difference there somewhere.
Edit, Blocking the MP did not stop the whisp.

So, a little sizzle? I get that sometimes.

 

[Ricardo]

It's the first little wisp of the Genie you're about to release.... Then you get three wishes (tokes). This is the true truth.

 

[LesPlenty]

was this on a 'non'carb' stem?

No carb hole, Ed`s TNT 14mm cigar stem.

 

[Hackerman]

OK, so that completely seals the 'air rushing in' theory. LOL Thanks.

I'll just bet it has something to do with the currents created in the induction heating process itself, somehow building up a 'pressure' that is forcing the wisp out.

Still, why on just one of my caps and not the other 2?

Try adjusting (squeezing) your cap and see if anything changes. I'll try the same thing on one of mine that doesn't leak and see if I can get it to leak.

 

[Ricardo]

I have shaved about 2mm off my piece of Cork because I noticed a layer of green last night at the back of my ABV (reduced size chamber) - it's at about 6mm now, all good

 

[Hackerman]

Hey.... who was it that was having the problem of having to hold the VapCap real near the edge of the heater to make it activate?

I just confirmed how to fix that.

It is, indeed the adjustable POT next to the proximity chip. Turning it clockwise increases the sensitivity and vice versa. So, just stick your VapCap right into the middle of the hole and turn the screw on the pot until the heater activates. You made need 2 or 3 turns to get it there but once you're there the adjustment becomes very sensitive. Get it just the way you like it and... bingo, done deal.

Let me know if you need any help with the details.

Also, I am experimenting with using the heater with no fan. That fan noise is irritating at times and I simply don't see a reason to cool that coil. It doesn't get real hot, even under my constant use.

I'll let you know if it creates any problems.

Vape on, Garth.

 

[JigMelon]

I'll definitely have to test out changing the sensitivity with the pot. Looking forward to your results without the fan.

 

[Hackerman]

I have been using my main heater without the fan for a couple days and I have not noticed any problems. The inside of the tophat gets a little warm from the radiant heat of the VapCap, but the outer plastic case is cool to the touch.

I am going to put a remote thermometer inside the unit to monitor the temperature but I don't see any problem.

It;s actually a little weird running it without the fan after hearing it all this time. Almost doesn't seem right. LOL It is definitely nice to [sometimes] not have the fan noise.

I now have 7 induction heaters..... LOL

 

[Ricardo]

I now have 7 induction heaters..... LOL

You realize that (many, many years in the future), when you pass away somebody is going to have to clear out your clutter?

 

[LesPlenty]

I am a lucky SOB, I knocked my SJK onto my workshop floor(concrete) by accident yesterday and thought it would be buggered but it is fine, did not miss a beat, right, no more crowing in case I curse it.

 

[Ricardo]

I thought mine was broken last night, it was heating but not to the Click. Turned out my cork buffer had toppled forward (my missus doesn't give me champagne corks - just standard vino tinto ones ) .
This has happened before
EDIT : just to let you know that the SJK doesn't work well with the OG. It begins to click when I insert the cap but then the glass body seems to disactivate it
Probably better for the health and long life of OG#4.

 

[LesPlenty]

SJK doesn't work well with the OG.

Proximity sensor needs a tweak! Hopefully someone will put up a video or pictorial `How To'
cause I aint got a fuckin` clue.

 

[Hackerman]

@LesPlenty I just did mine. Do you want me to walk you through it? If anyone does, it's very very simple

@felon167inc What is 'not working' mean? Maybe I can help.

 

[LesPlenty]

Do you want me to walk you through it?

Not me, mine is fine, it is @Ricardo that is having trouble when using a glass stem.

 

[Ricardo]

@Hackerman - I'm not really bothered about it not working with the OG. The less I handle it, the less chance I have of breaking it.
Also, I'm not a boffin, don't have a workshop and can't solder for toffee.
What does this tweak achieve? The only "improvement" I can think of would be to override the IH cycle so I could get to the Vapcap click without removing the Omni/NonaVong, but that's not a big deal really.
Do you like how I pimped my SLJ IH with stickers - very teenagy .......and it still looks like a pseudo dental device.

 

[LesPlenty]

Do you like how I pimped my SLJ IH with stickers

Got the Nascar look! I like it, now the sensor that starts the heating cycle;
It is as simple as turning a screwdriver, there is an adjustment screw that you turn one way or the other to make the sensor more or less sensitive. But which screw?That is what a picture or vid would be good for.

 

[Ricardo]

But would turning this screw alow the heating cycle to continue and the LED to flash red & green 10 times, instead of 5 times, before flashing Amber and shutting down?

 

[LesPlenty]

Nope, you have to do the hokey pokey.

 

[Ricardo]

Hey, hey, hey - Felon's chipping out
I don't want to rest my caps on the side - I don't understand what wands are..
I'm just happy mine works. When it breaks I'll probably buy a new one, or maybe the Dynavap version will be available in Europe .....or I'll go back to lighters

 

[Hackerman]

Yep, what he said.... The adjustment is just for the proximity sensor. It doesn't change the heating cycle in any way. An adjustment is only needed if the unit DOES NOT START when you put the VapCap into the center of the hole of the induction heater. If you have to hold it real near the edge to get it to start, the proximity switch needs adjusted. If it starts when you insert the VapCap into the center of the hole, the proximity sensor does not need adjusted.

 

[Ricardo]

In that case, I'm golden. Is everybody getting the sizzling noise? I like to think that's the moisture in the weed being vaporized... is that right?