The Arizer Air

[stardustsailor]

@stardustsailor good ideas!! I see you making the mouthpiece end separate to be a good idea. Easy to customize and replace if needed!

And easy to clean ,too...

I'm not entirely familiar with Ti in this application (only in nails and wire), would the Ti mouthpiece draw too much heat from the heater making it work hard like other metal stems do?

Yes,indeed Thermal conductivity and Specific Heat (aka Heat Capacity ) are two major variables to
be taken under consideration ,while choosing an appropriate metal /alloy for the bowl ...
Titanium Grade 2 ,seems to be -just a tad inferior - in comparison with-most- stainless steel alloys ..
http://asm.matweb.com/search/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=MTU020
http://www.engineersedge.com/properties_of_metals.htm

Still ,there are some are properties that have to be evaluated also ...
Like how inert is a material ,the heavy metal content ,it's "thermal aging " ,etc ...
Moreover ,in case of Air ,the thermal expansion coeff of the selected metal ,
should be very carefully taken under consideration ...

Perhaps if it were a bit thinner it would be better with the heat and still retain the... hardness of Ti? I don't know what to call it but it'll still be pretty damn strong even thin right? Being able to add washers to the middle part to make the bowl bigger is a great idea though. Interesting approach to the "adjust-a-bowl" concept.

1,5 mm wall thickness is just what's needed ..Not too flimsy ,not an overkill ...
Good ,solid,durable,built to last ...

Yes,the "adjust-a-bowl" concept fits nicely with the Air ...

Cheers.

 

[sickmanfraud]

I've had this CHILLUM for a long time I paid $5.00 for it.

With your reputation for breaking glass, you must know that the $5 items break after the $30 PVHES has been destroyed.

My preference is still with the $10 (approx) bent Solo stem. I can break 3 of those and just equal one PVHES.

@stardustsailor, do NOT limit yourself to Air length stems. Many people find the short stem to be too hot (me included) and would prefer a stem between the Solo and Air in length.

Also If you use polymer for the outside, then the stem could be black which would be more stealth.

 

[OF]

With your reputation for breaking glass, you must know that the $5 items break after the $30 PVHES has been destroyed.

Also known as 'the Law of Selective Gravitation'. Good example of it for sure. Happens the other way too, being the last spare available definitely increases the odds.

OF

 

[priestsmiler]

Ed's tnt wood stems are very good in the air and solo alike. Just curious, what advantage would your own design have over them?

 

[stardustsailor]

Ed's tnt wood stems are very good in the air and solo alike. Just curious, what advantage would your own design have over them?

Firstly ,let me express my secret wish (not so much of a secret anymore ...) that Ed will see the above designs ...
Maybe he'll get inspired and I will be proud enough about it ...

Advantages ...

Well for starters there are no small parts involved (o-rings ,screens ,retaining rings ,pins ,etc) ...
Secondly ,it seems a tad easier to clean ...(Not verified yet ,though ...)
Thirdly by incorporating a "joint" middle part between the bowl and the mp,
allows for the "adjust-a-bowl" concept and
allows also more versatility about moutpiece material and design ..

Still ,those are just the first -made , "rough " designs...
I'm still working over them ...

And finalising the material selection ,too..
Currently I'm leaning towards 316L stainless steel for the bowl,
white pure Teflon (PTFE) for the joint
and olive tree burl wood (very common & abundant here in Greece )for the mp.
All parts going to be machined at lathe .
Maybe I'll post some more pics-from updated designs- later if that's alright ...

Cheers.

 

[GetLeft]

Looks nice for sure. But I'm so simple I've used nothing but the stock stems with pinky-shaped dome screens for the year I've had my AA. Keeps me well covered.

 

[fubar]

(From personal experience on the subject :
stem all way in = More of conduction vaporising .
Better suited with finely ground &tightly packed herb and low temps.

Stem out until "glass screen" is at same level with the top plasti cover of the unit =
More of convection vaporising (more room for hot air ) .
Better suited with medium to coarse grounded & loosely packed herb and higher temps .
Must allow for at least 20" between inhalations,for the fresh - and trapped inside the chamber - air to heat up .)

+1!

tl;dr Your observations are supported by some experimental evidence at http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/temperature-plotting-with-a-raspberry-pi.20720/
Few combustionfuckers seem to be convinced by my experimental evidence so I'm glad to hear your observations which support what I have noticed.

Essentially, deeper stem insertion brings your herb closer to the hot metal of the oven which radiates heat . The oven also heats any air you suck through the device which gives rise to heat transfer by convection.

Since the rate of radiant heat transfer is a function of the inverse square of distance, radiation from the oven may be sufficient to cook the surface of the pack when it's really close (eg a few mm - and whether you are inhaling or not!), leading to a larger fraction of heat transfered by radiation, making the Air (solo is the same IMHO) into a "radiation" dominated vaporizer compared to having the stem further out when heat transfer is dominated by convection from the hot air you suck through the bud. As the herb puck is pulled further from the oven, heat transfer by radiation diminishes substantially - even a small distance can make a big difference to radiant heat transfer because of the inverse square law - but convection continues to operate as you inhale.

I have noticed that sometimes bits of the packed bud tend to stand up out of the puck slightly after I start a session and if I have the stem inserted really deep, those little "bud hills" are being cooked hotter - probably by radiation - than the deeper bud, because they are much, much darker and sometimes even get charred compared to the deeper plant material further from the oven (inverse square!) where convection is the main source of heat transfer.

The darker surface ABV colour gradient does NOT seem to happen when the stem is pulled a few mm out even if there are bits of bud sticking up - I get much more even browning throughout the puck.

There's the complication that heat is also being conducted by and radiated from the glass stem but I think that's relatively minor until the end of the session when the glass is too hot to touch. The stem glass gets hot presumably from heat arriving mostly by convection - assuming it's held free from contact with the hot oven metal by the gasket at all times - plus some radiation at the edges if it's inserted deeply.

 

[beiberhole69]

awwww man, I'm pretty bummed

The top fell off my Air. I thought it just fell out, but I found the top this morning and the little silicone piece broke off and is still wedged in the hole

I know a lot of you ditched that thing a long time ago, but I really liked it

sad day

 

[Seek]

The Air can look so cool!
Red skin, black mouthpiece, micro matrix hydratube from vapefined!
Also, Easy flow adapter, probably also from vapefiend, not directly.

 

[lookhigh]

awwww man, I'm pretty bummed

The top fell off my Air. I thought it just fell out, but I found the top this morning and the little silicone piece broke off and is still wedged in the hole

I know a lot of you ditched that thing a long time ago, but I really liked it

sad day

My cap is still attached for now. When it does fall of i will not fret about it. Dont be sad its only an slowdown to getting the stem in.

 

[OF]

My cap is still attached for now. When it does fall of i will not fret about it. Dont be sad its only an slowdown to getting the stem in.

While it's not so big a deal to me with Solo, the cover sticking out so far with Air was. It kept getting in the way and/or hanging up on stuff.....didn't last long.

OF

 

[XeroRespect]

New Air adopter here. Haven't had a chance to use it yet, finishing up a 3 week T break. Coming from the pax2, I am hoping for a more pure taste and greater extraction. I love my Underdog and it seems like a close alternative and similar operation/technique to it.

 

[GetLeft]

Seems like a great place to be: coming off a t-break with a new vape to test out. Might be able to get some good benchmark readings

Never had a UD so I can't validate or invalidate its comparison with the Air. But my limited experience allows me to be of the thinking that with regard to fire power, a portable is unlikely to measure up to a desk top. I have an e-nano and it's not fair to compare it with the Air with regard to power.

Taste with the Air is high quality at low temps, and sacrificed (as with most vaporizers I'd assume) as temps rise. I love the flavor of the AA at blue (lowest temp) where I tend to stay as long as I can before moving up (usually no more than one step up to white) to finish off a stem I didn't finish completely at blue. Others don't dabble with the lower temps and crank it up higher (green, yellow, red) right off the bat where no doubt it packs a punch. I'd also expect extraction to be complete were one to end up one way or the other at the highest temp.

The Air is not hard to get working quickly. I used mine straight out of the box (and I'm a dope) and have continued to do so right up to now (a year or so later). But it does indeed improve (as can any vape) with practice and with techniques that are well suited to it (use of a domed screen, lightly packed stem, 'draw speed awareness,' etc.).

 

[Stevenski]

New Air adopter here. Haven't had a chance to use it yet, finishing up a 3 week T break. Coming from the pax2, I am hoping for a more pure taste and greater extraction. I love my Underdog and it seems like a close alternative and similar operation/technique to it.

I own a Air & UD & they are both very good vapes but completely different signatures & vape styles IMO. Head to head it is no contest between the two & it is unfair to really compare them but they do compliment each other very well. I use my UD as a one hitter mostly & the Air as a session sipper.

For one thing the Air has 5 temperatures & if you have good quality weed a session on blue to white can last a whole 10 minute session at flavourtown. After that a session on green will usually finish the stem off nicely. Where the Air excels is it's portability & relative discreetness as a session vape so is perfect for out & about use or in a small group (like at the pub).

 

[battersup21]

Hello Everybody, I am fairly new to this site. I just picked up a new Arizer Air and was wondering if anybody had any tips they could give me. I am having trouble getting good vapor production. Right now my draws are pathetic, very whispy with very low vapor production. I am left hugely disappointed after my first 3 sessions.

I have a pretty high tolerance and like to take large draws and get big clouds typically out of any vaping device. I am the type that would prefer 3 or 4 huge ones rather than 10 small ones.

Right now I am doing a medium grind and not packing to tight. I have done both full sized bowls and 3/4 sized bowls, both have the same poor results. I am using the 2 highest heat settings to get the most of it (orange and red). It just seems the heat is not traveling through my herb enough, the glass stem gets hot but thats about it. The herb stays green and is not turning dark brown at all.

If anybody is getting great vapor production I would love to hear how you are doing it. I am sure draw speed has a lot do with it (every device has a curve), but I have been drawing slow and just not getting it done! Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[beiberhole69]

I am the type that would prefer 3 or 4 huge ones rather than 10 small ones.

You got the wrong vape then.

That said, it shouldn't still be green. Try letting it dry out some after you grind it and then re-grind.

 

[OF]

You got the wrong vape then.

That said, it shouldn't still be green. Try letting it dry out some after you grind it and then re-grind.

Seconds on the dry part. And at least moderately packed. Allow time for the heat to recover between hits.

But, in the end, it's still a portable limited in performance by available power. It should (and almost always does) do a great job making vapor, but at a rate that doesn't suit many.

You can only push it so far chasing clouds since that never was a major part of the design goals. It's designed for more modest production rates with long battery life. I agree here too, there are better choices?

OF

 

[battersup21]

You got the wrong vape then.

That said, it shouldn't still be green. Try letting it dry out some after you grind it and then re-grind.

LOL...I agree. The Cloud Evo is my typical, dam thing pretty much caught on fire last night. This Arizer Air is just a backup unit I have laying around that I am using temporarily. So far I hate it!

But I am thinking it can't be this bad, I must be doing something wrong. I used to have a firefly vape so I know how to do the slow long draw. DJust doesn't seem to work here.

I will try a finer grind as you mentioned. Thanks!

 

[sickmanfraud]

LOL...I agree. The Cloud Evo is my typical, dam thing pretty much caught on fire last night. This Arizer Air is just a backup unit I have laying around that I am using temporarily. So far I hate it!

But I am thinking it can't be this bad, I must be doing something wrong. I used to have a firefly vape so I know how to do the slow long draw. DJust doesn't seem to work here.

I will try a finer grind as you mentioned. Thanks!

There is a Best of Thread (above) for the Air that should help you get started.

 

[bluenavey00]

Hello Everybody, I am fairly new to this site. I just picked up a new Arizer Air and was wondering if anybody had any tips they could give me. I am having trouble getting good vapor production. Right now my draws are pathetic, very whispy with very low vapor production. I am left hugely disappointed after my I am the type that would prefer 3 or 4 huge ones rather than 10 small ones.

Right now I am doing a medium grind and not packing to tight. I have done both full sized bowls and 3/4 sized bowls, both have the same poor results. I am using the 2 highest heat settings to get the most of it (orange and red). It just seems the heat is not traveling through my herb enough, the glass stem gets hot but thats about it. The herb stays green and is not turning dark brown at all.

If anybody is getting great vapor production I would love to hear how you are doing it. I am sure draw speed has a lot do with it (every device has a curve), but I have been drawing slow and just not getting it done! Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

As others said, and even though it's your backup you will not clear a load in the Air in 3/4 or even 10.

Sure others will agree it takes closer to 10 minutes to fully extract a load?

 

[beiberhole69]

Sure others will agree it takes closer to 10 minutes to fully extract a load?

Depends on all the usual factors. I'd say the range is from 5-15 min or so.

@battersup21 If you haven't had success with the grind and haven't yet tried a domed screen (dome towards oven to reduce bowl size), give that a shot.

 

[battersup21]

Thank you very much to those who offered some tips. That is very much appreciated. I will look into the dome screen!

I have been working on it. I have tried a finer grind which does seem to work a little better. Also a fully packed chamber seems to work better for me as well.

One thing I have noticed is that I get descent vapor production on the first 2 draws, then after that the vapor production seems to go down significantly for me. Even after turning the bowl over.

My ABV is very green still, only the bottom surface layer that touches the heater is getting slightly darker. It seems that I am not "drawing" the heat through the herb enough.....But when I draw harder the results become worse. To be honest I am confused if I need to draw slower or quicker...

I would be interested to hear what type of draw speeds you guys are using that are getting good results w/ dark brown ABV.

 

[beiberhole69]

slow and steady definitely wins the vapor production race.

try pulling the stem out a mm or two to give it a little more room for convection

 

[CalyxSmokr]

Thank you very much to those who offered some tips. That is very much appreciated. I will look into the dome screen!

I have been working on it. I have tried a finer grind which does seem to work a little better. Also a fully packed chamber seems to work better for me as well.

One thing I have noticed is that I get descent vapor production on the first 2 draws, then after that the vapor production seems to go down significantly for me. Even after turning the bowl over.

My ABV is very green still, only the bottom surface layer that touches the heater is getting slightly darker. It seems that I am not "drawing" the heat through the herb enough.....But when I draw harder the results become worse. To be honest I am confused if I need to draw slower or quicker...

I would be interested to hear what type of draw speeds you guys are using that are getting good results w/ dark brown ABV.

first 2 draws are just getting it going for me. I think you should feel some heat coming through the mouthpiece when you are doing it right - when the convection is taking place. I think it takes at least 5 minute session to get it going correctly. Air takes more patience but before you know it you are done. I use the domed screens and feel they improve the hit.

 

[trance89]

hi there
yesterday i lost the rubber opener cap on my air, is there any place i could buy a new one?
thanks very much for your help