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StemPod by MPL

Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by supershredderdan, Aug 3, 2017.

  1. supershredderdan

    supershredderdan Well-Known Member Manufacturer

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    These builds are great, If someone can find a guage/wraps/ID mix that gets full extraction with no glow and reads over .1 then I would build those instead as our HD coil option, seems these are close but I'd prefer anything we do on the website work with the majority of subohm mods. Maybe ill even send them some cool shiz.

    Rad work y'all
     
    Summer and Easywider like this.
  2. sickmanfraud

    sickmanfraud Well-Known Member

    Do any of you DIY experts have any "pre-built" coils to recommend?

    I am outside the USA, so fasttech and Aliexpress are probably the best vendors for me, shipping-wise.

    I think if I got good performance without the coil glow (OG notch coils) I would use my stempod more.
     
  3. jardri

    jardri Vapor Dreams

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    373
    @supershredderdan some time ago I did a quad coil 24 Ga 6 wraps build that got like 0,23 Ohms or something like that. It was easy to stabilize and should work flawlessly on most mods. Had a few seconds of heatup but gave very consistent vapor. On my daily basis I use 20Ga 10 wraps and it reads 0,15-0,17 ohms, its a little overkill but its reliable and so far its giving the best flavour. I have tried both builds in a cheap chinese Istick 100 and both worked well on wattage mode. None of these builds glow and they may last a long time because in 4 months of daily usage i see no degradation.

    Sidenote: If you use a high carbon content steel the resistance will rise and will be easier to stabilize. May need a little more burnoff until the steel coat is done but performance and flavour will be better.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2019
  4. KeroZen

    KeroZen Chronic vapaholic

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    Yeah good remark. Some grades of steel are indeed easier to TC due to their higher resistance change coefficient.
     
  5. Hjalmark

    Hjalmark Oldest boy alive

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  6. jbm

    jbm Active Member

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    I posted this over in the Stempod SI topic, but since that seems to be quiescent I thought I'd post here too. I'm thinking about getting into box mods via a Stempod SI, and I was wondering about the choice of the kanthan coils. Given that they preclude the use of temperature control on box mods, are there other advantages to them? I ask because I’m interested in an on-demand vape mainly for home use, and I bought an Espion 200w today as a possible driver for an SI. How much control will I have over the temp I’m vaping at if I’m limited to wattage mode? Apologies if I’m misunderstanding what’s going on here.
     
    supershredderdan likes this.
  7. supershredderdan

    supershredderdan Well-Known Member Manufacturer

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    just answered a similar question over on reddit so I'll paste that here:

    I've decided on kanthal coils for the Si primarily to simplify the experience for newcomers looking for an on demand budget device. I think many people get frustrated going down the rabbit hole of box mod firmware and tcr settings and end up deciding the 510 game isn't for them

    With kanthal coils preinstalled, newcomers have a low maintenance build that should work fine with wide open airflow at 30-50 watts and a moderate draw for 10 seconds. If they want to get into TC later they can install SS coils but I think many of the customers the Si and bundles appeal to will be happier defaulting to wattage
     
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  8. jbm

    jbm Active Member

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    Thanks, @supershredderdan. Much appreciated. I do have to say that dipping my toe into the box mod web, it does appear to get really complex really fast. I had been thinking that temperature control would work better for me in that it more closely approximated a battery powered vape like the Solo or such. But it sounds like I can mess around a bit with wattage and draw and still get good vapor. Thanks. I'll put in a pre-order at the end of the week.
     
    supershredderdan likes this.
  9. Stickyclouds

    Stickyclouds New Member

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    3
    I received my stempod today and this thing rips. I have been using Vapor Genie products for the last few years but when I saw the SP it was time to step my vape game up. Right out of the stashpod I had no trouble in wattage at 35w getting good hits with tons of flavor and decent vapor from the stock stem. Then I put it on my hydratube and got big hits. Delicious and cool clouds. I kept the air adjustment open a sliver. It’s running on a DNA75 mod so for temp control I just adjusted the tcr to .00215 in escribe and the stempod is working very well with that. I did install the FCShare file but had to adjust tcr on that as well to get any results from the SP. Excited to try new coil builds in this, I like the idea of the quad coil sitting right over the air holes. I'll post more after I try different coils in a few weeks.
     
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  10. supershredderdan

    supershredderdan Well-Known Member Manufacturer

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    Hey all, uploaded a stream mostly focused on the Si, but also using the OG stempod a fair bit. Some new glass prototypes on display too, check it out!

    Click to play YouTube Video
     
    foggyent likes this.
  11. dagfp

    dagfp Well-Known Member

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    calling that new stem the Nub sounds far too paraplegic to me... i think it should be called the Teat

    it makes much more sense since the stempod will be used for milky vapors
     
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  12. Improvize

    Improvize Well-Known Member

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    89
    Hey guys, quick question before I go into deep tinker land... [tldr: can TCR change with a heat sink?]

    Today I took off my heat sink that has lived with the StemPod basically since I got it. I don't think I really need it with my larger mod (Reuleaux DNA200) but had kept it because it created a tighter air seal for the StemPod. Now that I've developed my technique for wide open airflow, I wanted to put it on my Imp setup.

    Anyway, after removing the heat sink, my StemPod no longer functions properly in Temp mode. I've always used a TCR of 230 with great effect with all my coils. Right now the beefy coils I'm running (don't have the specs offhand though I could probably get them) have a resistance of .4 and the heat sink has never changed that value in use... but now without the heat sink I'm getting the "off" message when trying to get up to to even moderate temps (<350°). I had this happen once before and cannot remember what I did to fix it.

    I know resistance can change with a heat sink, but never has with this one... can TCR change with a heat sink? I was getting such spectacular rips with my settings just last night (I posted this shot on Reddit) and nothing else has changed.

    [​IMG]
     
    Summer likes this.
  13. dagfp

    dagfp Well-Known Member

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    i dont know which portion of the stempod you removed but from what i understand DNA mods regulate the temperature of the hit by calculating the difference between the preset ambient temperature inside the mod and the resistance of the coil as it fires. to dial in a DNA mod's TC, it's recommended to run the case analyzer at a stable room temperature (which takes 4 hours and is a pain in the ass ) which will then be used as the baseline for how hot to make the coils.

    so i'm guessing that by removing the heatsink, the change to the internal temperature of the mod threw off the rest of your settings.

    the atomizer shouldn't factor into the case temperature that much but it is a possibility. i don't have full confidence in this theory but it's harder to pinpoint what else could be the issue without a picture of which part you took off.

    https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/67433-proper-way-to-run-case-analyzer/


    ...have you tried unlocking your resistance and re-reading it from a cold start?
     
  14. Improvize

    Improvize Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    89
    I have reattached the StemPod, gotten the new atomizer message and selected yes. Resistance reads fine. Then I checked to relock resistance. My settings are all saved as presets. I shouldn't have to set them up from scratch, right?
     
  15. Stickyclouds

    Stickyclouds New Member

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    3
    [​IMG] Put a new build in the SP. Quad vertical coil baby! I bought some coils from advancedvapesupply.com. The coils are standard claptons that read out to 1.0 ohm each so, 4 of them come out to .25 ohm. I have been running them in temp control like I did the stock coils and have been getting great results. ABV has been more even which means less stirring especially when running higher temps (500). I like a couple big rips as opposed to a larger quantity of smaller pulls. Also less glow so that should mean more time between replacement. But I like to tinker. I also grabbed some triple core claptons that will also come out to .25 ohm in a pair when I get bored and want to try a new build. As a side note I found that if I positioned my stock coils and new one as close to the air inlet as possible, without shorting out on it, I got better/quicker heatup times. If you are looking to try this build I used two bamboo skewers to hold the coils in place when installing them, just put the skewers right into the air intake for a perfect fit. Trying to post pics, no luck, will try again later...maybe

    Edit: I'm almost exclusively using a hydratube or a bong or a j hook with this. Did just do a sesh on the stock stem, too hot for my taste and style of use. Really want to figure out at short stem that will also provide cooling for out and about/stealth. Kinda thinking about a 14 to 18 gong with as much bent stainless as I can fit also might work with a bunch of thin stainless wire cramed in there
    . Waiting to see what @supershredderdan comes up next.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2019
  16. supershredderdan

    supershredderdan Well-Known Member Manufacturer

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    like this?

    [​IMG]
     
    Summer and Oogendoogan like this.
  17. almost there

    almost there Well-Known Member

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    @supershredderdan Is it safe to soak the base of the stempod? I want to clean out all the debris that's in the bottom but I'm worried the rubber heat sink might get eaten up by the iso. The o-ring I'm ok about because I can remove them but that heat sink looks like trouble if I can't put it back. Thanks.
     
    HerbieVonVapster likes this.
  18. supershredderdan

    supershredderdan Well-Known Member Manufacturer

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    227
    you can soak all the metal parts, but i would recommend taking the coils off the deck and removing the O ring and silicone sleeve and not soaking those in iso, if you find the silicone dirty a boil in water will work fine to clean it. Not sure what rubber heatsink you're referencing
     
  19. Stickyclouds

    Stickyclouds New Member

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    Yeah just like that!
     
    supershredderdan likes this.
  20. CABtheFISHKING

    CABtheFISHKING CAB

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    Location:
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    So my dumbass laptop refuses to recognize my rx2 20700 when I'm trying to flash the TUBO firmware onto it. Yes I have the right updater, yes I've tried uninstalling USB ports and reinstalling them, I've tried literally almost everything and still nothing. What's going on, I'm very frustrated atm
     
    Hjalmark likes this.
  21. Improvize

    Improvize Well-Known Member

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    Have you tried a different cable? These firmware installers are particularly picky. A cable I use all the time for charging and data was a no go while another of the exact same type was fine. Try whatever you got and see if one lights up for you.
     
  22. P.A.M.

    P.A.M. Vapo Rising

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Planet Earth, North America
    @jbm to answer one of your questions a few weeks past. Yes basically wattage is a temperature control . Only thing is that we don't always know what 30watts = ?? Degrees, for example. We do know low watts = low temps, high watts = high temps .. Those who have vaped with voltage metres for desktop logs or have portable vapes with preset temps have an idea of what "temps" are or that they like already and therefor we can at times come to consensus of approx temps : watts....

    I think watts is probably best being it will always give that same power. Not sure if difference in draw soeed from one hit to next can mess TC modes or if they are more accurate if preferably always drawing the same speed..

    Vape on!
     
  23. jbm

    jbm Active Member

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    Thanks @P.A.M. much appreciated. I’m starting to read up on this stuff, finding bits and pieces here and there
     
    P.A.M. likes this.
  24. HerbieVonVapster

    HerbieVonVapster Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,031

    In TC mode you uses whatever wattage is needed to maintain the temperature regardless of draw speed. I use under 10 watts in cruise to maintain 400 degrees. This same setup I can use over 50 watts of power durning a huge draw to just maintain the same 400 degrees.

    With wattage the temperature will continues to climb. You can find a higher wattage amount where the draw speed is close to the wattage needed and you can get a nice hit. If not inhaling thou that wattage will be much higher than whats needed to maintain a useable temperature.

    If you use my example above and it's using less than 10 watts to maintain coli at 400 degrees once you take a draw it's going pull off the heat and 10watt will not be enough to give you any vapors. Due to this I really don't see a way we can tie a stable temperature to wattage value that would would work.
     
  25. Hippie

    Hippie Well-Known Member

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    484
    Location:
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    Have you tried with the Arctic Fox NToolbox firmware updater > update from file
    It may be worth trying an older version of NToolbox from their archive too if that doesn't work as I found that the latest version of their Device Monitor doesn't recognize my mods with sur_myevic but older versions from their archive work fine.
     
    Summer likes this.

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