Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by Summer, Sep 11, 2018.
Diamond grit sand paper and a great deal of persistence?
Maybe some water as well? Mostly persistence though, I don't imagine it will be a quick process.
? Not at all, and wouldn’t have guessed; I just meant I have some stems I want to grind down but I’m scared.
Sorry I did not understand you before
Water will aid with the glass dust problem for sure
Please be sure to wear eye protection. Personally if I were to do it I would also wear a mask. Glass dust has much downside for lungs and eyes.
Yeah I wish I had a glass blower worker friend to help me polish up some stems to the right joint size... Some day maybe
I've got a question for y'all wonderful people, but first thank you for the great info you've already shared. I've learned lots!
So I vape pretty heavily, about once every 45 minutes to an hour. My husband also uses my Splinter about once every two hours. I normally do 2 bowls, he does one. All of that information brain-shat out means the Splinter gets run through about 6-8 heat cycles per hour. That would sound excessive to me but I run it at a fairly low temp, normally between 170-185°C or 335-360°F. My question here is, am I going to damage my Splinter by running it this much or does the lower operating temperature mitigate that?
Nope! Even at high temperatures that would be fine, RBT has tested this extensively himself while manufacturing
There's some mechanism if i remember correctly, that the heater (ss mesh) won't even glow, and won't react with oxygen - the heater should last for many years.
Tis part of the wonder of these robust ss mesh high surface area RBT heaters!
Yeah, I'm amazed by this heater. I also use nicotine vapes and mesh is pretty much supreme for flavour over there too.
I combusted in my Splinter for the first time yesterday (ran it in TC mode with a 50w preheat), but I'm not especially upset; now I have a visual of where the hot spotting happens when I don't pack the bowl just right. Gotta turn those failures into happy little mistakes, right?
Anyone have compared the different firmwares on the Z ? Myevic, tubo, sur? Opinion?
I never tried the Z but according to the comments and the reviews, tubo's sw is the most recommended way to use it
Basically you have Arctic Fox , Tubo, MyEvic. Anyone one of them is better then stock. Tubo is the best route if your mod is compatible. It is based on Myevic and modified for dry herb use.
Next I would recommend Myevic as it has an auto fire feature. Using auto fire on nom dna mods in tc mode gives me superior uniformity in my extraction. no stirring no rotating.
Arctic fox is great as well. Fully customizable, many profiles and you can use trf material files.
OK so i need to go back using wattage mode because TCR is too complicated for me
i'm combusted in the last few attempts to use the splinter with a bubbler, and the splinter z is getting extremely hot.
I’m also still getting better results with wattage mode than TC.
You can decrease the TCR and/or the locked resistance to decrease the temp of the coil without decreasing the temp shown onscreen.
I would ...
Decrease the locked resistance in 0.001 increments 'til you're happy
Or decrease the TCR 'til you're happy
Or a bit of both
Increase the max power to 45W to get you there a lil quicker
Enable the sweet PID present to smooth out the TC if you've not done so already
Hey guys, I'm back with another question. I'm going to be picking up a quad-18650 mod pretty soon here and I want to use a whip with it because that shit's heavy af. I'm pretty uninformed about glass, but I know I can't just use any 19/19 stem with the Z, it has to be made for a Splinter. What stem would I need to use a whip? Orrrr, could I even just get some 19mm ID silicone tubing, attach that to a shorty tube and use that?
Pretty sure the "made for" is the 19/19 part, most are 19/22 (joint too long) so wont fit. youre mostly trying to avoid the stem joint hitting and damaging the heater screen... the trick is finding 19/19 at all!
btw what 4 batt mod?
Ahh, thank you for the explanation on the sizing! Now I know that I'll probably have more success finding stuff that works.
I'm getting the black carbon fiber Wismec Reuleaux RX300 and I'll be slapping the TUBO firmware on it. I did a little mockup; I can't figure out how to embed images so here's an Imgur link. https://imgur.com/9JFID9l I plan to get a woodgrain wrap for the parts that are just plain plastic.
thats why I asked:
careful(?) with the rx300, is indeed a beast, and I got over the insanely giantness of it all and fell in love with the endless battery, HOWEVER, it consistently reads one battery as lower than the other three (or more accurately, drains 1 of 4 at a faster rate) even on stock FW (the stock firmware shows batt levels for all four slots)
didnt think anything of it until a couple days passed unused (on TUBOfw) and IN STANDBY, the battery drained so low that it seems salvageable (though I may be overly cautious, i only know enough of all this to be scared) but in anycase, wont charge. Looked around a bit and doesnt seem to be an isolated case.
Anyway, if you bite, post how it treats you, god knows I seem to pick the lemons...XD
The Z takes both 19/19 & 19/22.
Vaposhop has RBT whip adapter
Same length joint as XL8R (~19mm)
Thanks for the heads-up, @eideal852! I'll be going with a different mod. I've already had a couple 18650s vent on me, I don't want four more.
Loving the Splinter Z and the Splinter V2. The Z is now my favourite vape as I seldom use my other vapes besides the V2. I love the huge clouds and great taste with these two RBT vapes, just awesome! The Z never leaves the house while the V2 is for when I go out and about. I’m getting no hot spots with the Z but do on occasion with the V2. I only use wattage mode and I find that I get a more thorough extraction with the Z than with the V2 using a wismec RX gen 3 mod
Looks exactly like the Extreme Q elbow whip adapters
Separate names with a comma.