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Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

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jbm

Well-Known Member
Well my interest has won over so I now have a splinter z and a Wismec Reuleaux RX GEN3 Mod on order.

What advice would you give to setup this combo?
I’d play with it a bit in wattage mode. Start at like 30 watts. Preheat up to 5 seconds then hit the fire button and play around with draw speed. Let go when you start tasting vapor. Step up the wattage if you like. It’s rewarding. Then if you still feel the need delve into TC. I’m still enjoying experimenting with wattage and have set aside my Paranormal 250c in favor of an Espion 200W and a RX Gen3 Dual for the time being.
 

Penny Wise

Active Member
@Penny Wise, as you just got it a day or 2 ago, there's a good possibility that the crack was there when you received it. I'd contact the seller & tell them you just received it & noticed the crack.

Yep, and I actually have a picture I took of the heating element from before I had even fired it. It shows the crack fairly clearly (even though I didn't notice it until later) and I can compare the metadata against the delivery time if the seller wants to be cute.

If the seller decides to be a dick about all this (I've done some digging afterward because I'm dumb, and I didn't find great things about them), would contacting RBT be the next thing for me to do?


True that brother! You definitely need to take your time when you're dialing this thing in or you won't have a great experience. I use TUBO mode on my firmware-modified eVic VTC Mini but if you're using TC, let it sit at temperature for about 2-3 seconds before you start drawing, and draw with a decent amount of force but not a ton of speed. If you're using wattage/power mode, then fire it at 30-45w for about 5-8 seconds (the lower your wattage, the longer you need to preheat it) then very gently pulse it while you're drawing to keep the oven up to temp. You don't need to fire it for longer than one second out of every 3-5 to keep it up to temp; the lower your wattage the more frequently you'll need to pulse. You can keep pulsing it after you're done taking your hit but you'll have to be extremely careful to avoid combustion. While you're drawing, air is being pulled over the mesh heating element, which cools the element off; if you're not drawing there's no airflow so you'll combust very fast if you just fire it indiscriminately in power mode.

I’d play with it a bit in wattage mode. Start at like 30 watts. Preheat up to 5 seconds then hit the fire button and play around with draw speed. Let go when you start tasting vapor. Step up the wattage if you like. It’s rewarding. Then if you still feel the need delve into TC. I’m still enjoying experimenting with wattage and have set aside my Paranormal 250c in favor of an Espion 200W and a RX Gen3 Dual for the time being.

VERY surprised you're using an Espion and Rx instead of your DNA Para, the Paranormal is one of the best (mass-produced) mods on the market right now. I'm looking forward to getting literally anything with a DNA chip in so I can really get precise with my Splinter.
 
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jbm

Well-Known Member
VERY surprised you're using an Espion and Rx instead of your DNA Para, the Paranormal is one of the best (mass-produced) mods on the market right now. I'm looking forward to getting literally anything with a DNA chip in so I can really get precise with my Splinter.
I may use it again if I start playing with TC mode, but it’s overkill for wattage mode, where I’m not really trying for precision. I also have a Milaana 2, which is all feel and no metrics. But it’s an amazing vape.
 
jbm,

Penny Wise

Active Member
Ahh yee, that makes sense! Have you looked into the custom profile for the Splinter Z for the DNA chip? I've heard it really ramps up the Z's game.
 
Penny Wise,

Hippie

Well-Known Member
Yep, and I actually have a picture I took of the heating element from before I had even fired it. It shows the crack fairly clearly (even though I didn't notice it until later) and I can compare the metadata against the delivery time if the seller wants to be cute.

If the seller decides to be a dick about all this (I've done some digging afterward because I'm dumb, and I didn't find great things about them), would contacting RBT be the next thing for me to do?

Contact the seller 1st as they should offer to swap it for a new one by the sounds of things
 
Hippie,
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Penny Wise

Active Member
Contact the seller 1st as they should offer to swap it for a new one by the sounds of things

Yee, I contacted them and they were quite courteous! They said they're going to talk to RBT himself about the tiny crack in the wood and haven't seen the glass cracked before but they're gonna get back to me on it. I snagged their last one so it's not especially easy to do a quick exchange but I feel positive. Maybe I'm dealing with someone different than the two or three little blurbs I found.

Just so you all can see what I'm talking about, here's a close-up of the crack:

brwcD6y.png


It's not bad at all and my buddy who knows everything about cannabis said it doesn't look like it'll spread, but I'm still very leery. Lol
 
Penny Wise,
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Well my interest has won over so I now have a splinter z and a Wismec Reuleaux RX GEN3 Mod on order.

What advice would you give to setup this combo?

Just when the mod arrives try to figure out how to extend the fire time from 10sec to 15sec (may be up and fire at same time to access menu). Otherwise start using it at 35 watts and get a feel for how it heats and all the other variables. If you want to do longer hits, just let go of the button before 15 and press it again to start the timer over (if you do a few sec preheat from cold, it can be helpful to let go and start pressing again for your hit to get the full 15 which should be enough typically--- other software surmyevic can extend and offer more, but I wouldn't mess with that yet, if at all, personally I like the stock firmware)
 
Shit Snacks,
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nachooo

Well-Known Member
Well 6 months after heavy use of a custom Z (first ones that arrived Europe) in a releaux 2/3 in TCR .. well what is called Tubo mode in that software... Still impressed...finally the use of the Z, I mean the way I should draw..has become like unconscious driving a car..When suddenly I am not satisfy with the vaping..is always the basket that is dirty and I have to clean it….never have a combustión issue..hot spots occur when I packed the material wrong but is my fault.

The other day I used my old xvape fog and a dynavap M...and I thought...I have just forgot why I am using the Z every day...I cant turn back... I have sold my soul to the Z. The flavours are so pure and last and last...and last...
 

Penny Wise

Active Member
Man, we sure picked the right vape, eh nachoo! Lol this thing is just slammin. I haven't combusted once, but I'm using the same TUBO mode you are. I don't need to stir at all, I just rotate the stem 1/4 turn after every hit and it almost always extracts pretty evenly. I'm using mine again and just being really careful with stems.

What's the best packing technique you've found? I sometimes get hot spots and I'm trying to figure out how to minimize them :) Thanks!
 

nachooo

Well-Known Member
Man, we sure picked the right vape, eh nachoo! Lol this thing is just slammin. I haven't combusted once, but I'm using the same TUBO mode you are. I don't need to stir at all, I just rotate the stem 1/4 turn after every hit and it almost always extracts pretty evenly. I'm using mine again and just being really careful with stems.

What's the best packing technique you've found? I sometimes get hot spots and I'm trying to figure out how to minimize them :) Thanks!
For me it depends a lot in the type of material...humidity plays a role also… I like médium grind well packed but not too much… I have broke 3 glass stems already.. thanks God they are cheap chinese and cost me about 2 $ each:).. And for me the tech that Sneaky Pete mention "low and slow" draw is perfect.
 

Lasqar

New Member
For me it depends a lot in the type of material...humidity plays a role also… I like médium grind well packed but not too much… I have broke 3 glass stems already.. thanks God they are cheap chinese and cost me about 2 $ each:).. And for me the tech that Sneaky Pete mention "low and slow" draw is perfect.

Do you have a reliable/quality Chinese shop for the stems?
 

eideal852

Well-Known Member
Man, we sure picked the right vape, eh nachoo! Lol this thing is just slammin. I haven't combusted once, but I'm using the same TUBO mode you are. I don't need to stir at all, I just rotate the stem 1/4 turn after every hit and it almost always extracts pretty evenly. I'm using mine again and just being really careful with stems.

What's the best packing technique you've found? I sometimes get hot spots and I'm trying to figure out how to minimize them :) Thanks!
it takes whatever you give it, but I've found less is more across ALL rbt I use (Mi, Splinter, Z) the less packed the better: fat (visible) hits quicker, more even extraction, better taste. Certainly if you have the luxury of repacking if you need more... I only grind in a basic-ass Medtainer plastic herb container.
 

DeezVaprz

Well-Known Member
About a month into my custom Z purchase (from @VGOODIEZ of course!) and I'm still absolutely loving it. I've been playing with a few different stems but overall after toying with both wattage and TCR mode I've gotten it dialed down to exactly how I like. With my RXG3D I'm using TCR set to 145, Wattage at 36, ohms locked at .42 and temperature at 365f. After 10ish or so flavorful and hefty plumes, I bump it up to 395-420 depending on what I've got left to kill the bowl (Stem packer here, not a fan of packing baskets). I was recently gifted a ground glass SSV/DBV wand and I've actually started using it with my Z natively and with a whip and mouthpiece! I'll try to get pics at some point, but this device has really changed my expectations of other vapes and ent related products in general. I thought it may have been a bit expensive compared to some of the other devices at first, but I definitely feel I got my moneys worth and then some. I had a week with a crafty and this and the crafty was sold and I'm already cleaning another and misc accessories to get rid of as they no longer get used.

Long live King Zi!

All that being said, what kind of sessions are you ents having? I'm scared of ruining my device so I try not to run it longer than 20-25 seconds, let it cool down after several large rips, and don't really let other people use it (lol). Can this thing take a thrashing? How hot is too hot before I should put it down and give it a break? Oh, and also, I know anything longer than 30 seconds voids the warranty and may ruin the heater, but can I fire it for 20-25 seconds, let it rest for a second, refire and continue the cycle several times or is there a recommend waiting period? Definitely been babying this device then I read people firing them for minutes at a time and think HOT DANG, so definitely curious to see what you all are doing!

Finally, I can understand RBTs stance on TCR mode. There are way too many settings, mods, variables, firmware options, etc out there. Going back and forth over email/phone between customers/vendors/etc could get out of hand. Wattage mode is straight forward enough that anyone should be able to get up and go with minimal fiddling. At first, I was obsessed with TCR mode and was frustrated when I couldn't get it perfect. After going back to wattage and really getting into the Z I decided to give TCR a try and played with the settings one by one until it was to my liking. Two things to keep in mind is that like RBT said himself, these are all handmade devices and can be like snowflakes, and as @KeroZen mentioned we are hijacking a system meant for vaporizing liquids. I knew going in that some tinkering would be required to get the perfect plumes. This is certainly one of if not THE VAS killer.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
About a month into my custom Z purchase (from @VGOODIEZ of course!) and I'm still absolutely loving it. I've been playing with a few different stems but overall after toying with both wattage and TCR mode I've gotten it dialed down to exactly how I like. With my RXG3D I'm using TCR set to 145, Wattage at 36, ohms locked at .42 and temperature at 365f. After 10ish or so flavorful and hefty plumes, I bump it up to 395-420 depending on what I've got left to kill the bowl (Stem packer here, not a fan of packing baskets). I was recently gifted a ground glass SSV/DBV wand and I've actually started using it with my Z natively and with a whip and mouthpiece! I'll try to get pics at some point, but this device has really changed my expectations of other vapes and ent related products in general. I thought it may have been a bit expensive compared to some of the other devices at first, but I definitely feel I got my moneys worth and then some. I had a week with a crafty and this and the crafty was sold and I'm already cleaning another and misc accessories to get rid of as they no longer get used.

Long live King Zi!

All that being said, what kind of sessions are you ents having? I'm scared of ruining my device so I try not to run it longer than 20-25 seconds, let it cool down after several large rips, and don't really let other people use it (lol). Can this thing take a thrashing? How hot is too hot before I should put it down and give it a break? Oh, and also, I know anything longer than 30 seconds voids the warranty and may ruin the heater, but can I fire it for 20-25 seconds, let it rest for a second, refire and continue the cycle several times or is there a recommend waiting period? Definitely been babying this device then I read people firing them for minutes at a time and think HOT DANG, so definitely curious to see what you all are doing!

Finally, I can understand RBTs stance on TCR mode. There are way too many settings, mods, variables, firmware options, etc out there. Going back and forth over email/phone between customers/vendors/etc could get out of hand. Wattage mode is straight forward enough that anyone should be able to get up and go with minimal fiddling. At first, I was obsessed with TCR mode and was frustrated when I couldn't get it perfect. After going back to wattage and really getting into the Z I decided to give TCR a try and played with the settings one by one until it was to my liking. Two things to keep in mind is that like RBT said himself, these are all handmade devices and can be like snowflakes, and as @KeroZen mentioned we are hijacking a system meant for vaporizing liquids. I knew going in that some tinkering would be required to get the perfect plumes. This is certainly one of if not THE VAS killer.

Don't worry about back to back hits, that will be more efficient even, heatsoaking the steel mesh. No need to let it cool between hits etc. Def a durable beast!
 

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
For me it depends a lot in the type of material...humidity plays a role also… I like médium grind well packed but not too much… I have broke 3 glass stems already.. thanks God they are cheap chinese and cost me about 2 $ each:).. And for me the tech that Sneaky Pete mention "low and slow" draw is perfect.

Do you have a reliable/quality Chinese shop for the stems?

I picked up some adapters from DHgate after searching and searching for 19/19 to no avail. I need to grind them down first but if there is someone out there selling 19/19 for cheap that would be great!
 
SquirrelMaster,
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Monk Debate

The monks do be debatin’
About a month into my custom Z purchase (from @VGOODIEZ of course!) and I'm still absolutely loving it. I've been playing with a few different stems but overall after toying with both wattage and TCR mode I've gotten it dialed down to exactly how I like. With my RXG3D I'm using TCR set to 145, Wattage at 36, ohms locked at .42 and temperature at 365f. After 10ish or so flavorful and hefty plumes, I bump it up to 395-420 depending on what I've got left to kill the bowl (Stem packer here, not a fan of packing baskets). I was recently gifted a ground glass SSV/DBV wand and I've actually started using it with my Z natively and with a whip and mouthpiece! I'll try to get pics at some point, but this device has really changed my expectations of other vapes and ent related products in general. I thought it may have been a bit expensive compared to some of the other devices at first, but I definitely feel I got my moneys worth and then some. I had a week with a crafty and this and the crafty was sold and I'm already cleaning another and misc accessories to get rid of as they no longer get used.

Long live King Zi!

All that being said, what kind of sessions are you ents having? I'm scared of ruining my device so I try not to run it longer than 20-25 seconds, let it cool down after several large rips, and don't really let other people use it (lol). Can this thing take a thrashing? How hot is too hot before I should put it down and give it a break? Oh, and also, I know anything longer than 30 seconds voids the warranty and may ruin the heater, but can I fire it for 20-25 seconds, let it rest for a second, refire and continue the cycle several times or is there a recommend waiting period? Definitely been babying this device then I read people firing them for minutes at a time and think HOT DANG, so definitely curious to see what you all are doing!

Finally, I can understand RBTs stance on TCR mode. There are way too many settings, mods, variables, firmware options, etc out there. Going back and forth over email/phone between customers/vendors/etc could get out of hand. Wattage mode is straight forward enough that anyone should be able to get up and go with minimal fiddling. At first, I was obsessed with TCR mode and was frustrated when I couldn't get it perfect. After going back to wattage and really getting into the Z I decided to give TCR a try and played with the settings one by one until it was to my liking. Two things to keep in mind is that like RBT said himself, these are all handmade devices and can be like snowflakes, and as @KeroZen mentioned we are hijacking a system meant for vaporizing liquids. I knew going in that some tinkering would be required to get the perfect plumes. This is certainly one of if not THE VAS killer.

I know what you mean about the Z changing your expectations of other vapes. I’m finding even other 510 convection vapes aren’t giving me the same experience as the Z. The Fury 2 was comparatively a big disappointment next to the Z (very different vape obviously). So far the only vape that’s retained its charms for me after the Z has been my Dynavap, especially through water, but that also has a ritual involved and is just a different experience.
 

nachooo

Well-Known Member
Do you have a reliable/quality Chinese shop for the stems?
First I pick hookah adapters from Aliexpress the store called: china hookah store Works nice but I have to grind them, them found another store Glawaer..picked two stems , no need to grind..but one of the stems do not fit perfectly..it can be used but is not perfect , the other works nicely.. they are very short..but for me are perfect..I add cristal balls inside when I want to cool the air.
 

eideal852

Well-Known Member
First I pick hookah adapters from Aliexpress the store called: china hookah store Works nice but I have to grind them, them found another store Glawaer..picked two stems , no need to grind..but one of the stems do not fit perfectly..it can be used but is not perfect , the other works nicely.. they are very short..but for me are perfect..I add cristal balls inside when I want to cool the air.
may need to pick your brain re: grinding, skurred
 
eideal852,

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
Any handy dandy jobs around the house that require more than a screwdriver, pliers and/or hammer are beyond my skill-set.

For those of us that do not have many tools, is there a way to shorten a glass stem to 19mm?
 
sickmanfraud,
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