Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by Summer, Sep 11, 2018.
What is TC. I'm not familiar with mods and can you recommend a few good ones?
Mod recommendations & info on settings can be found here:
Thanks, that makes perfect sense, and you have verbalised the impression that has formed in my mind. From my few experiences with power mode now and what we have discussed here, this matches perfectly.
I think it was actually my intuition and mindfulness of this aspect to wattage mode last night, that instantly got the better results. And what you guys are saying now fits 100% with my experience.
Hehe, I guess I just like to have things spelt out. Actual technique I was still foggy on with the Z, despite following this thread. So hopefully your posts here will help new users comprehend the basics wrt draw, heat, button technique etc in W mode, and pros to TC.
Sorry I sometimes forget where I was with all the mod stuff 4 months ago. Hopefully below helps with understanding the difference between Wattage mode and Temperature Control (TC) mode.
First is a 20 second inhale using wattage mode set at 35 watts. Solid red line is a temperature of 400 degrees. Wavy red is the actual temperature. Green is wattage.
Notice with wattage at 35 watts the heat is varying by over 60 degrees depending on my draw speed.
Next up is same test using temperature control mode set at 55 watts. Notice now it's maintaining a more constant 400 degrees. The green wattage line shows the mod is controlling the wattage to maintain the correct temperature. I only overpowered the 55 watts at the end where I exhaled and did a huge draw. Averaged 36 watts over the 20 seconds.
I used a similar draw rate in both the tests. Notice instead of spikes in temperature when my breath slowed or speed up in wattage mode. Its now showing the same pattern except the wattage is spiking instead of temperature in the temperature control mode.
Considering the both used around the same wattage per second 35 verse 36 for temperature control. The TC mode used the wattage in a better manner for heating i feel.
Personally I enjoy vaping at the constant temperature I picked instead of the huge swings you experience well using wattage mode. Some other people love wattage mode so really I suggest trying both.
Hopefully this helps explain the difference between using temperature control vs wattage mode.
Not all mods are created equal a good place to start is the 510 mod discussion linked below.
It's surprising that the TC is so precise even on an expensive mod. Are the Z and the Splinter about the same in that regard?
Nice day getting to know my splinterZ
At first i did not know if i would like it - its a bit of a beast. However slightly lower temps than normal helps to tame it.
Got a 4 hole. Hemp fiber in the stem helps to increase draw resistance, giving some fat clouds.
Overall happy with my new toy.
Patiently waiting for the Z to come back in stock. Does anyone know who will be the first to have them in stock once ready?
If you are in the USA you can buy from RBT if outside the USA that is vapefiend.co.uk
@started@52 - Was nice meeting with you. Thanks for purchasing the wooden roasting tube.
Here is a photo of the tubes from which you had to choose. Your tube is made from padauk wood.
Thanks, I forgot what you said it was made out of. Glass liner fell out and on the floor(crash) before I had a chance to use it but works great without it.
Yeah I always wondered why all wood stems with glass tubes were like that, it's a bit braindead... With just a groove in the wooden stem, you could have a o-ring in there or even a couple of them, problem solved!
Need help setting up TC for my Z! Jealous of all these people utilizing tc including RBT.
My coil shows .400 by default and isn't locked, it moves around as I press the trigger. Is that correct? Or should I lock it.
My OG Splinter ran I believe 180 tcr at .240 locked. Should I try that with the Z? Or should I go off the .400 that is default reading when I screw in the mod. Just any baseline for that reading and I can figure out the rest on my own.
Found out rbt been doing the low temp wattage mode cruise, so I'ma try that and report back. Hopefully this gives me the great flavor clouds I've been searching for with this vape.
Hello, as I was expecting due to its fragile nature and my bad hand coordination after using the splinter Z several hours, the little glass mouthpiece finally was broken… .
The exact piece will be avalaible in Europe in a few weeks this november acording to the vapefiend customer service… They have wood mouthpieces but are too expensive for me so I decided to built one myself
So I took an old Hazel branche that I used to walk with and from one extreme cut some Wood
I used a dremmel machine for the hole and inner chamber… the diameter of the inner hole and the leght of the mouthpiece are personal decisions and change someway the vaping experience...In one hour I made two mouthpieces: a long one for cooler vape, and a short one….they work better than the original
I like to vape throught hazel wood that I picked from the Pyrenees woods 25 years ago...and has been with me in a lot of walkings
The splinter Z is an amazing device…all my friends are envy
I am sure that if you take an Aquarium pump and put air throught the Little holes of the splinter Z, you could put a ballon in the mouthpiece and make something similar or better than a Volcano desktop vaporizer…
Use the splinterZ .400 as your baseline with the Z. Might need increase wattage and mess with tcr values. If you Use the device monitor in AF to see what’s happening durning a live draw that should give you some insight on what the right value will be.
I like my max wattage to be where I can take biggest rip possible with out or just hitting the max wattage. If look at the graph I posted earlier can see where at the end I exhaled then took a giant hit.
Most my draws average around 36watts the biggest draw I can take hits high of about 55 Watts.
@AJS, what firmware are you using? Arctic Fox?
@HerbieVonVapster, you really didn't answer @AJS's questions. And I, too, would like to know the answer to these:
Want to make note that on my Eleaf iStick Power mod software, my coil shows .420 by default Haven't yet looked at what's happening to the coil values in wattage mode when I draw. But I will. Just to mention, my coil reading for the Splinter is .290. I would suspect the .400 is what you would go with for the Z. Don't know about locking in or anything else as I only using wattage right now, but I, too, want to know what TCR & temp settings should be or at least to start with.
@Summer I don't have a Z and I'm sure someone will chime in if I'm off base here but TCR 185 seems like a good starting point for these 510 attachments. Wattage will depend on manufacturer recommended settings and your personal draw speed.
For Splinter Z id recommend: TCR 185 , TEMP 385-400F , 50W Resistance locked (unless using DNA chip ) when splinters cold. Looks like cold Splinters Z have a value around 0.4
Alright guys, as much as I’m loving the Z I am not having great luck with the basket screens. They just aren’t staying in securely.
Who can recommend good screens for these style stems? I am open to suggestions for a screen that fits securely inside the stem (it is maddening for me to try and give a little stir only to see my screen sink down because of the taper of the stem) as well as some rimmed screens to use to cap the stems.
I’m still trying to find my ideal settings with @HerbieVonVapster’s profiles. The most recent version I downloaded was a good step up, but using the Z profile I really don’t get a coin to my herb that reflects the temperature setting accurately. Do I adjust that my changing the temperature max in the escribe profile settings or by changing ohms?
It totally may have been explained somewhere and I just missed it or didn’t understand the information that would break it down. I just want 445 to be the the cloud producing rips that I am used to lol. I felt so much more comfortable fine tuning my tubo with the funkyjunky firmware and find the DNA stuff really hard to find what I’m after.
@Easywider is tcr read as something different in dna mods? I cannot believe how foreign it all feels to me.
I may have inadvertently stumbled into my sweet spot with @HerbieVonVapster's profiles in escribe. I am using the splinter profile and have changed the coil material to the 19/22 stem basket screen. Lastly I have upped the settings to 55 watts and 400 degrees. Now at 445 I get thick whitewalls and pretty impressive extraction at 445 and the cook is pretty even with no scorching or hotspotting. I end up with maybe a fleck or two of uncooked pieces of herb but that is solved with a stir.
I found out that the best screens (IMO) that fit into the stem are those "freshly" made. What I mean is that if you take a flat screen and then make it into a basket-shaped screen the newly made screen will grip the walls of the stem.
I bought a basket screen maker from @Ratchett it is definitely worth the money.
As for buying basket screens, there are numerous sellers on Amazon.
@sickmanfraud i appreciate the recommendation! I have eyes Ratchett’s screen press for some time but I’m going to have to try and devise one myself to work within my budget.
I’ll take your tip on the amazon screens as well! I’m hoping to find some that are a little more firm, like RBT’s old school milaana and Zion screens. It seems like most screens I seem to find are too flimsy and just warp and lose form too quick.
I don’t know if anyone else has a similar issue but it seems like I constantly have to hook my mod back up to escribe and reload settings. For whatever reason 445 extracted thoroughly 12 hours ago but now it barely cools my herb.
Is that a problem with my mod box? With the Z? I just don’t understand why I get such a wide swing in my performance when I haven’t performed any additional changes to my settimgs.
Hey all I'm off on a camping trip next couple months. Will do best to respond but never know if when be in cell range to get on internet.
Sorry guys that I couldn't been more help with TCR values. I don't use TCR with DNA mods. Even using the sur_evic software I use the stock SS material with it.
TCR basically is the higher the number the hotter device runs. Stainless Steel 316 is .000915 according to DJLSB. That much too low it seems most folks run 185 or more. Since it varies so much btw mods the best advice I can give is start at around 150 and increase by 5-10 till you find ideal range.
Check make sure the cold ohms are correct. Can cause the issue you are having. If a older DNA (non color) can try locking OHM.
I've fallen in love so deeply with my Milaana 2 that I sooner or later will have to grab a Splinter Z
Objectophilia strikes again. Hey, as long as she treats ya well...
Does anyone know if Stephanie is still involved with Ryan from a business perspective ? Or if there is any other way to contact her besides Instagram ?
I have had contact using the email address info@Rastabuddhatao.com.
Separate names with a comma.