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school me on making bubble

Discussion in 'Concentrates' started by herbivore21, Aug 10, 2015.

  1. herbivore21

    herbivore21 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,156
    So many of you know that I make my medicine using isopropyl and ethanol. Many also know that I have used some bubble hash I've had for quite some time to treat my insomnia and that recently, pressing rosin out of 3-4 star bubble has been giving me amazing success over vaping the same half melt-3/4 melt material in my vapman (which has not been used for a long time now!).

    So I have actually never made bubble, and my bubble connect is long gone and my bubble stash is dwindling. Basically, it is time that I made my own bubble!

    Now, I must stress that I am looking for the most hands off approach possible. I wanna use a bubble machine (a la bubblemans one or similar) and will be using the full set of bags that bubbleman uses.

    The goal is to do whole nug runs and then process any bubble that doesn't fully melt into rosin or maybe some solvent based shatter (bubble is more for my night time needs where I find the waxes in rosin beneficial in my medicine).

    I had a few questions:

    Using a bubblenow or similar, what kinds of percentage bubble yields can I expect from reasonably high quality dried nugs after doing a bubble run?

    Which bags will tend to be full melt without my needing to clean things up manually?

    Finally, can someone who makes exceptional hash like my brother @Hashtag46&2 or the preeminent @CubanGrower help me out with general pointers and tips on stuff like drying bubble and cleaning my bubblebags?

    Basically I'm happy if I get a small amount of full melt in each run and will dab that in its original form if so (so excited to dab full melt for the first time!!!) - but I don't mind if I have to press most of it into rosin, I'm used to squashing all my bubble to be dabbable anyway ;)

    A full walkthrough of making bubble would be great here too, let's make this our go to thread for water extraction help :D
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2015
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  2. herbivore21

    herbivore21 Well-Known Member

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    4,156
    Despite almost 100 views, apparently this is a task I'm gonna be figuring out myself ;)

    So I have my full 8 bag bubblebag kit including the following screen sizes:
    • 220 micron bag
    • 190 micron bag
    • 160 micron bag
    • 120 micron bag
    • 90 micron bag
    • 73 micron bag
    • 45 micron bag
    • 25 micron bag

    I also have a bubblenow with extra 220 micron work bag (I like the idea of multiple contaminant bags.

    I have spent a good bit of time observing Matt Rize and Bubbleman's teks, as well as those of Bubbleman's Hash Ambassadors.

    It seems that there are a few key aspects in making great bubble:

    BIG SOLID ICE CUBES - I know this sounds like a strange thing to be pedantic about, but Matt Rize for one definitely spends a lot of time saying that you need solid larger ice cubes (no hollow hole in the middle like store bought ice cubes, this leads to quick melting and crushing when making contact with the herb material). Bubbleman also regularly highlights his preference for those half moon shaped solid ice cubes that refrigerator ice dispensers make.

    I have frozen up a bunch of VERY clean plastic bottles full of water (17 fluid ounce bottles, pretty small) - the plan is to cut the bottles open, take the single solid ice cube and maybe split it in half/thirds.

    As well I have filled a bunch of conventional ice trays.

    WATER - I decided early that I'm only gonna use water that I have filtered myself. This water has been sub-micron filtered and run through an additional proprietary filter. The stuff is salubrious as fuck (and will now become my bubbler water too)! All abovementioned ice cubes are made with this water as well.

    I'm not part of the tin-foil hat brigade that is frightened of tap water. The stuff that is in tap water is stuff I have no real problem with for drinking, but we are not gonna be drinking the stuff we make with this water! As such, I don't wanna give up harsher hydrocarbon solvents only to use a less than ideal safe solvent like water that is full of contaminant. You guys all know that's not what I'm about!

    Aside from this, having started with what seems to be regarded as the best possible bags/machine combo (and having tested the machine in a dry run with no material in it - DO NOT FORGET THIS STEP - if your unit has is defective, you wanna find out before you're put your material in it!), I am prepared for my first 2 zip run... Watch this space people!

    I look forward to coming to you guys with some wonderful bubble, hopefully with abundant full melt :D
     
  3. phooka

    phooka Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    168
    Mmm bubble hash..
     
  4. Joel W.

    Joel W. Deplorable Basement Dweller Accessory Maker

    Messages:
    1,778
    I have only made bubble once or twice and my results were pretty poor I think compared to recent pictures here. My biggest issue was getting the bags to drain quickly? I tended to impatiently slap the bottom of the bag to get them to drain faster. I am pretty sure it was counter productive then but not sure it matters now since I want to just press it all into rosin anyways.

    I assume grinding herb up is bad, I broke it up carefully by hand into small pieces.

    I was also wondering about how much you "get" from bubble extraction? Is there still plenty in there for vaping, edibles or a washing with another solvent?
     
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  5. davesmith

    davesmith Well-Known Member Glass Blower

    Messages:
    564
    I like bubble. Bubble bags and a wooden spoon was always my tek. :) Freeze everything. Lessspoon = better hash, morespoon = more hash. Easy.

    I wouldn't over think it too much but then I usually just chucked all the grades together at the end and smoked it anyway.

    Sounds like youve done your research. Just think logically and ignore all the hype people put around concentrates. It's pretty simple really.

    Good luck
     
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  6. FlyingLow

    FlyingLow Team NO SLEEP!

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    2,687
    You might get better response from Concentrate for Noobs thread, there are some pretty experienced guides in there that might help you.
     
  7. herbivore21

    herbivore21 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,156
    Thanks for the kind words all, I just did the maiden run. First run for 6 mins with 2 zips of material (and a lot of ice cubes - I think too many/too short of a run actually).

    Ran the bags twice to ensure there was nothing good left in the water. There wasn't.

    A few things I'm gonna do right away:

    Make more of my own ice (solid ice cubes > all)

    Get a couple extra buckets, drill holes in bottom of one (holy bucket will be the one that the bags are put in and the machine is drained into. This will allow me to pull every bag at once and get the resin out of the water quick if I need to. That way, I can do babushka buckets - bucket with holes for bags, bucket underneath to collect water.

    One thing I noticed with bubble is you really need to be prepared. This shit takes up a hell of a lot more space to do than solvent extractions.

    Gotta run the material longer too, I only got like < 1g from my first 2oz wash. However, the goods are still in the starting material which smells MAGNIFICENT (I vaped some just to check lol), which is frozen up for another run.

    Finally, I have noticed that whilst the flowers I get are incredible genetics and well grown, I have noted that they seem to have been harvested before those headies are mature. Looking under a 60x loupe, there is great trich coverage, but the heads are definitely very small and completely white (no amber at all).

    I think that these flowers could have matured a few weeks longer to get ideal resin production! The smallness of the headies was echoed by the fact that the majority of my yields were in the 90, 73, 45 an 25 micron bags.

    I squashed some rosin out of all the lower grade hash that came out and dabbed literally the tastiest extract I have ever had in my life (and there was still a fair bit of water in that stuff). I do like the idea of using bubble tek in place of QWISO, but I have some learning to do!

    More info later on!


    Hey bro, I can tell you that the material after my first wash could easily be washed with another solvent, or even put through the bubble machine. The real beauty of bubble is that your nugs that have been already run can be vaped again! I looked under a loupe to verify there were trichs left after my very low yielding first wash (I didn't break up the material at all actually, this may be part of what limited my yields).

    There were loads. I ground up the flower (which smelt incredible!) and then vaped it on the d-nail flower adapter (had to jack temp up a lot to account for massive amounts of frozen moisture in the material) but after a few hot tasteless hits of water vapor, this .05 of flower fucking milked! Tastes incredible and smells incredible still too! I truly believe nothing needs to be lost in the world of bubble.

    I have filtered the fuck out of the remaining bubble water and there is definitely no more resin in it.

    You need to lift the bags and shake them in a vertical jerking motion (no pun intended) to let the resin lift off the screen and let the water filter out :) Had no troubles with this, but hey, everyone get a super strong pump spray bottle. I find that spraying a la Matt Rize tek when spooning off your bags is the best way to clump all the resin together ;)

    You do seem to get smaller yields in bubble extractions, but it seems as if the goods you don't get out of the material can still be attacked with hydrocarbons or just vaped out ;)

    I have found that a very small amount of headies are sticking to my blotting screens actually, @Hashtag46&2 any hints as to how to get those frozen headies off the 25 micron blotting screens if they get stuck? Tried freezing to no avail...
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2015
  8. seaofgreens

    seaofgreens My Mind Is Free

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  9. Hashtag46&2

    Hashtag46&2 Trichome Technician

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    Location:
    7th Floor
    My apologies @herbivore21 ... Didn't see this Thread til just now.

    It's a bit close to bedtime for me ATM.

    I'll give the run-down in the morning.

    A lil something to tide you over..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The "Mention" feature seemed to miss my alerts, or I'd already have a response.

    This will be fun.
     
  10. herbivore21

    herbivore21 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,156
    No worries my brother, look forward to your input :)
     
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  11. 420engineer

    420engineer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    304
    I now just use a 75 and a 25 micron bag, loads of ice and a wooden spoon; it makes excellent hash that bubbles away among the edge of the hot knife I use to slice a bit off to vape :)

    protip; mix with a tiny amount of very fine ground bud till you get a sandy mull - then hit that and enjoy ;)
     
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  12. jojo monkey

    jojo monkey Well-Known Member Manufacturer

    Messages:
    434
    I skip a few bags, using all 8 is a pain. You don't need all of the top bags.

    What bags yield best depends on the herb.

    The best trick I have seen is using cardboard when you transfer it out of the bag and put the cardboard in the freezer to get the moisture out of the hash. I end up with crumbly hash this way.

    Best of luck!
     
  13. herbivore21

    herbivore21 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,156
    Hmmmm, I don't really have any problem with using all of the bags, however with the immature headies on these nugs, most of the good stuff seems to end up in the 90 micron bags and below. I do think there might be merit to getting rid of one or two of the bigger bags (maybe the 160, for example) ;) Thanks for the tip brother!

    Excellent idea on using cardboard to wick out the moisture in the freezer too man, that is an excellent idea! I will make sure to put my blotting screens on cardboard in future when freezing for microplaning :)

    Just microplaned my 90 micron material. Stayed icey super well and planed up into a nice fine powder. Got it drying under fine dust covers (that I also use to keep my hydrocarbon extracts free of dust) on some raw parchment that is sitting on a cardboard box). This should hopefully keep the headies nice while I wait for them to dry ;)

    EDIT: So the tiny amount of my microplaned 90 micron dried out super quick. However, couldn't get it to fully melt. When I looked under a 60x zoom before microplaning, there seemed to be visible capitate stalks in it. It only melts about 3/4 (for those playing from home, this is about the same melt factor as I got from some bubble I already had that I didn't make) and leaves a lesser amount of residue which doesn't really burn on the nail, but doesn't melt either.

    I believe this to be the stalks (all is white to look at both to naked eye and under 60x zoom, very little visible colored contaminant on par with macro shots I've seen of full melt). So I was not disheartened. I took all of the 90 micron I had (seriously fuck all, like .4g) and stuck it into some calico and squished some rosin - no water this time - drying is a must even if you wanna squash rosin out of all of your bubble!

    The MINISCULE rosin sachet oozed out like 5 decent dabs! I just had 1/5 of it on the SiC through my Kevin Murray rig and fuck did it hit me upside the head!

    Best flavor in a dab I've ever had (there is one absolute I made from the same strain that may be equal best). I am 100% a convert to water extraction and ISO will be retired as soon as I can get good yields sorted.

    I truly don't care if I have to rosin everything that I get - the heads on my flowers are many, but they are all white and quite immature (small, almost as small as the capitate stalks that they sit atop) - but I am 100% down if this is what it takes to retain EPIC terpage (yup, it's a word now!).

    I have already developed solvent tek in the past that will turn any bubble into the very, very best possible absolute shatter as well (near-complete terp retention even after purge). Things are gonna get super tasty up in here! Now to get some free time so I can run that material again ;)
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2015
  14. phooka

    phooka Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    168
    Drying is the most important part. Doesn't matter how "pure" your hash is if it molds up on you.

    After you gather onto the pressing screen and gently squish the water out, be sure to either grate it or chop it. "Microplane" is the term I believe. I have used cardboard on the past as a drying surface.

    Do not seal up your hash with any moisture in it.

    I consider hash combustion-worthy :) on a screen in a pipe with some hemp ::ducks::
     
  15. Hashtag46&2

    Hashtag46&2 Trichome Technician

    Messages:
    609
    Location:
    7th Floor
    Lets kick it off with a few inspirational pictures..
    My favorite batch to date.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Same batch, with Flash on.

    [​IMG]


    Melts like oil... (I consider this at 5 stars)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The basics...
    I know the industry craze is "Fresh Frozen" material, and it is great for those with tons of material, with little regard to yield.. (Every Spin I've done with frozen material, my yields are SHIT.)

    I personally do not want to freeze my Glands, particularly while the material still has an abundance of water in it.
    When we put wet material in the freezer, the water content will expand and inevitably rupture the cell walls, releasing Chlorophyll.

    I also have a pet peeve of the phrase "Fresh Frozen", it's an Oxymoron...
    Once we freeze anything, it is no longer considered Fresh.

    Again, not bashing the tek , but I strive for proper terminology in this regard, making for a Universal Language of Hashish Production.
    I prefer the term "Frozen while Fresh"

    Okay, enough semantics... Lol.

    I prefer dry material, even more so.. I like a 90 day cure before processing Bubble.
    This time frame allows the Trichomes to complete the process of Polymerization, creating a much more rounded, longer lasting high.

    However, waiting until the material is dry to the touch is acceptable and I do it this way quite often due to the demand.

    My preferred method...
    I personally like gentle manual agitation, with a large Stainless Steel Spoon with a long handle, especially for the first wash/or "Spin" as I like to say :)

    Much like @herbivore21 said, I like "Doubling " my contaminate bags.

    I do my agitation in a separate bucket, lined with only my 200u "Work Bag".

    *You want to keep this bucket as cold/insulated as possible *
    So, I usually set this bucket inside a 7 gallon Trash barrel, that I've lined with either; Ice and salt or Dry Ice.

    My configuration with my catch bags is completely contingent on the material I'm working with.
    More often than not, I'm running a maximum of 4 different strains, which will ultimately vary in contaminate, which will require more filtration.

    My catch bag setup.
    -Another 200u
    -190u (optional)
    -160u (necessary)
    -120u
    -90u (lined in a separate bucket with the bottom of the bucket cut off)
    (This allows the mesh to be pulled taught, opening the holes to be pulled to the correct micron size)
    -73u( also lined in a bottomless bucket )
    -45u

    Or...
    If you are familiar with the strain you are working with, or if various grades of melt are not a huge deal, the number of bags can be reduced to a Work Bag, 160u as your contanimate bag, 73u as your "Money Bag" and a 38 or 45 as your last bag.

    All ripe Trichomes are between 73-160 micron, and by using this 3 bag system, one can experience the unique taste of the various Trichome sizes all together.

    Out of the many spins I've done, I do not care for anything below the 45u (38u is the smallest I'll go) bag, if I use the 25u...
    It takes forever to drain, and usually contains dirt/dust, broken stalks, and some broken, sparse Trichomes.

    So, I've got my Work Bucket lined with my first 200u bag.
    In goes our Ice Slurry..
    Ice/Trim/ice.

    Then, I add my water. (I refrigerate my water for at least 48 hours beforehand)
    -a dedicated fridge for this purpose is very helpful.

    After the water is added (enough to where the water line is just about an inch above the material)
    It is time for a nice soak (about 10 minutes) prior to any agitation.
    Keep in mind, the older/dryer the material, the longer you want to soak to rehydrate the material.

    You want your Ice Slurry as cold as possible before agitation.

    It is the super cold environment that causes the glands to sink, the agitation simply aids this process
    If you were to put your hands in the slurry it should be VERY uncomfortable cold.



    Will continue the rest in the next post, as I'm concerned about too many characters....
     
  16. herbivore21

    herbivore21 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,156
    Thanks bro! A great start to the thread! :) Heaps of info here that should help budding bubble makers plenty :)

    On the fresh frozen (frozen while fresh) thing, I have definitely found that freezing material still wet off the plant preserves terpenes. No question. The profile you get off of the material I am working with when it is fresh is so much nicer tasting than dried/cured. Remember, the material may not be fresh anymore in the sense we think about frozen food - but I don't care about whether or not the vegetation could be served in a salad, I care about actives ;)

    Of course, others will have their own tastes and preferences. :)

    With this being said, this time I dealt with dry frozen material. I can see the trichs seem immature, all white and small (definitely only really found anything in the smaller bags). They have magnificent taste/smell though! No full melt since there seem to be a lot of capitate stalks coming through (small heads maybe leads the whole stalks to be beaten off the nug?).

    I am wondering if I am not likely to get full melt from this specific material. If this is the case, I am probably best to go the route you discuss with the lesser bags and a long wash, then just squish the rosin out of them?

    Tell me, do you line the separate bottomless buckets with the money bags so that you can minimize contact between the headies caught in these bags and water? Do you pour water through these one-bag bottomless buckets into a bucket with a bottom with the 45 bag, then immediately remove the 73 and 90 micron buckets - or is it all just about pulling the bag taught?

    Definitely need to insulate my bubblenow, Matt Rize mentions this too and I can see for sure how not insulating the unit was an oversight. Obviously, I will not insulate the bubblenow machine with a bucket full of ice/dry ice etc as the contents of this bucket and the motor at the bottom of the machine will not be the fastest of friends. ;) Matt Rize suggests using one of the silver car window covers as an insulator so I'll give this a try :)

    Looking forward to my next run and your next post bro! :D
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2015
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  17. NorVape

    NorVape Vape Rictim

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    Location:
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    Thank you for creating this thread, and thank you to all who contribute with their knowledge. I will follow it closely :)
     
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  18. herbivore21

    herbivore21 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,156
    A pleasure to have you aboard my friend! :)

    Bro you gotta try this bubble rosin thing, I swear, the moisture from the bubble makes that shit work!

    I just squished the same .3g I squished once already (total contents of my 90 micron bag from first wash attempt) and got seriously what seems like 80% out in total from these two squishes and there is visible oil in the cloth for another squish. This puck is way smaller than I've ever bothered with when using the THC bomb bubble hash I've had.

    The quality of this 90 micron stuff is absolutely off the wall crazy! Still gotta do the 73 micron batch yet and squish it/dab it depending on how much it melts when it's dry. I am expecting similar results from that lot, they looked identical under a 60x magnifier white heads and white capitate stalks.

    I would have paid the cost of the bubblenow/bags and the flowers just to experience this flavor in such ultra low yield from my way too short first bubble wash. To have high quality bubble that squishes forever producing such a nice tasting rosin in any amount is priceless.

    The 90 micron provides drastically increased yields compared to the THC bomb bubble I've had a while which I'm sure is 120 or even 160 micron stuff.
     
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  19. Hashtag46&2

    Hashtag46&2 Trichome Technician

    Messages:
    609
    Location:
    7th Floor
    Part 2....

    Once our Slurry has been soaked for 10-ish minutes..
    Agitation....

    I do a series of spins, with the first one being extremely gentle ...
    The first spin, I essentially just move the slurry around with my spoon utilizing a very gentle stirring motion.

    With each following spin, I increase my stir speed & duration in small increments.

    **Note: Use new water for every spin**
    -The water that has already passed through the series of filtration bags, is full of dirt/dust & foreign debris.

    My 45u bag stays put throughout all the washes, while I collect the contaminate bag(s). And the Resins from 120, 90, & 73 are collected between each wash.

    I keep these resins in separate piles, and make sure to label the piles.
    For example..
    120u wash #1, 90u wash#1 , 120u wash#2 etc....

    The resulting debris from my 200 & 190(also most of the time, the 160) bags go into the same pile for each wash.

    Some of the more epic/rare strains have huge Glandular Heads at 160 micron.

    There are a couple reasons for the bottomless buckets in my "money bags"
    - Much easier to collect the resin.
    - Pulls the mesh taught, opening the holes to the correct micron size.
    - and to keep the resin from sitting in the water.

    An essential tool ... Pressurized Spray Bottle.

    [​IMG]

    I use this for a few reasons... I fill it with ice water, and use it to wash the sidewalls of the bag, using the stream of water to push the resin into the center of the bag for collection.

    After the hash is pushed into the center of the bag .. I pump it to full pressure, and blast the pile of resin.

    This process actually cleans up the resin, washing away debris /dust / dirt...
    It also helps to separate the Glandular Head from the Capitate Stalk, and washes away all the Sessile Stalks.

    As I'm blasting the pile, I can literally see the yield getting smaller and smaller, but I know the trade off is purity.

    I equate the process with the same concept of "Carding" over dry sieve screens for cleaning up "rough" Dry Sift .

    Let's say I'm collecting from my 90u bag..
    The gland (being 90+ micron in size) will stay atop the mesh, whilst anything smaller (like the Sessile stalks) will be pushed through the mesh.

    Collect your resin with a dedicated regular kitchen spoon.
    (Your wife will get pissed if you Jank up all the spoons with sticky hash. Lol)

    I prefer to dry my Hash on an inert surface such as glass or a porcelain or ceramic plate(s)

    -Yes, cardboard will help wick away excessive water/moisture, but it will also wick away essential oils from the wet glands.

    Additionally, cardboard will also add a sulfurous taste to your hash.
    ^^ I truly believe this^^ is why I had always disliked Bubble before I started making my own...it tasted like cardboard.

    So, after we've collected the hash... It usually comes out in a "patty"

    Common practice is to freeze this, then micro-plane.

    I personally don't like this, shaving my Glands? it will rupture the heads I just took a couple hours to separate and collect as a whole.

    I simply take a kitchen knife and gently "mince" with the backside of the knife.

    Right out of the water, after the "mince"..

    [​IMG]

    Colorado happens to be an amazing environment for hash making, with the low temperatures and almost non-existing humidity.

    Ideal conditions for Hash drying/ curing...

    Temps around 55F

    Low to zero humidity.
    Wine coolers/chillers are a hash makers best friend, as they are designed for these specific conditions.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Just under a half oz of 90 micron..

    [​IMG]


    In the jar

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Hopefully, this helps somebody ....

    Any questions, please feel free to ask.

    Edit: These images are from my first successful batch 'o Bubble
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2015
  20. NorVape

    NorVape Vape Rictim

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  21. herbivore21

    herbivore21 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,156
    Excellent stuff bro, I'm busy educating budding (pun intended) scientists today but when I get back I'm gonna look over this and ask a few follow-up questions!

    Glad to see I'm on the right track with the pressure spray bottle - except the fucking screw on spray nozzle was missing when I bought it - FFS! My spray bottle was a bit of a fail this time, probably a good thing I didn't get much of the good stuff off my material - will need a working pressure sprayer next time!

    I really need to get on that before my next wash since I'd love to get these capitate stalks out of my 90/73 bags and get me some meltier bubble! I'd love to be able to just dunk my bubble onto the nail without squishing :D

    Gonna get me some bottomless buckets too, I think this tek is a no brainer as I'd been thinking about something similar (more of a bucket with holes drilled - but I can see completely bottomless is definitely better) as soon as I finished my first wash :D

    Also seems like I have the worst possible conditions for drying/curing - high humidity and seriously we would never get 55f here unless something was seriously wrong with the weather! lol
     
  22. Enchantre

    Enchantre Oil Painter

    Messages:
    3,820
    Location:
    WA USA
    So, to keep the screen taut, you put a bottomless bucket Inside it? so it's stretched over the outside?

    Hmm. I am growing now, so I'm thinking of trying bubble...
     
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  23. Hashtag46&2

    Hashtag46&2 Trichome Technician

    Messages:
    609
    Location:
    7th Floor
    I have a set of Bubble Magic Bags, and the drawstring allows me to put the bag in the bucket or vice versa.

    I believe most bags will accommodate either way.

    The ideal way, is to put the bag in the bottomless bucket, then pull the bag up until the mesh is pulled tight, then use the drawstring to secure the bag in that position.

    But, if your particular set of bags won't allow this, I would definitely put the bucket inside the bag...

    Essentially anything to pull the mesh so it's nice and tight.

    Also, wanted to show some of the Ancient Art of Hand Pressed Hashish.

    I only do this when I have an abundance of Hash, as good as it is, I tend to over-indulge when its pressed...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    When pressed properly, after a long cure, some magic begins taking place inside the Hash Ball...

    I call it Cream..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The Cream dabs like a Dream... Spicy and Floral.
     
  24. herbivore21

    herbivore21 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,156
    +1 to the tendency to overindulge when pressed! The THC Bomb 4 star bubble I've had for ages came pressed like this, when convection vaping it especially I found myself hitting .2 or .3 bowls of it sometimes - which really is much more than I would need to lol

    Those look like beautiful shinier versions of temple balls bro. I can see that that stuff is straight headies - kudos to you on yet more beautiful hash :D

    I'm gonna be doing my re-run of that material from my first bubble attempt over the next couple days. Hopefully works out properly yields wise so I can try my epic ethanol bubble extraction tek to turn some of the lesser grades of bubble into absolute shatter with super full terp retention (I've had lots of practice developing this tek and more than confident of guaranteed great results - so excited!). From here on in, this will be my daytime medicine.

    Would it be unreasonable to expect 10% back from nug runs (I don't have/do trim, I ain't no grower lol)? This is what I'm really hoping for, I don't expect 20% returns like solvents as I understand what we are doing with bubble is very different ;)

    Full melts and rosin will be my night-time medicine. ISO served me well but I am a firm believer in bubble tek now :D

    Eventually I'm gonna have to get good screens and get into full melt sifting too for some nice headstash material :D
     
    DrSteez, Prolusio, duckTape and 6 others like this.
  25. Hashtag46&2

    Hashtag46&2 Trichome Technician

    Messages:
    609
    Location:
    7th Floor
    How do I like this post more than once?!?!?

    :D :D :D

    I absolutely love inspiring folks like yourself!!

    Hahahaha.... It truly puts a smile on my face.

    It almost never fails, I post a few pics and describe my history with Concentate, and how Bubble or Mechanically Separated Resin Glands changed my life...

    And I get at least a few complete "Converts"

    Isn't that first hit of self-made bubble just literally mind-blowing?!?

    I also love the fact you knew you were looking at Temple Balls!!
    Not too many folks are familiar with that terminology nowadays.

    And....
    Yes bro, you can reach 10%, but.. That is going to include your contaminate to create Rosin in addition to the money bags...which could bring you closer to 12-15%

    I find that I get around 5-8% of 4-5 star melt . With the total return being around 10-12%, sometimes up to 15% including the Rosin sourced from the contaminate bags.

    This is exactly why I do what I do!!

    Thank you Brother herb!!:tup::rockon::nod::clap:
     
    DrSteez, Prolusio, duckTape and 10 others like this.

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