Discontinued Purple-Days Vaporizer

Zingbuddah

Vaporologist
Good progress. I agree, the open lead is going to be a problem until you fix it. The electrons are going to bunch up at the end, a few will get lost, but most will just stay there.....

AFAIK the wire used to extend the leads is plain old tin plated copper buss wire. I'd use 18 ga or so. The current is low enough so it doesn't matter, but it needs some rigidity. I'd keep the original resistor leads as long as possible (keep the splice as cool as possible in service).

Remember, Tom was a bug on lead free (solder), I'm not so sure how I feel about that......your call.

Thanks for the update.

OF


Thanks for the heads up on the ROHS solder, now I know why my repairs are the only ones holding. Time to break out the wick and re-do those joints. I'm on the realist side that we need to maintain a little flexibility in those joints.....

And OF you should know better...those electrons eventually jump into the air and become free radicals!

-Z
 
Zingbuddah,
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OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the heads up on the ROHS solder, now I know why my repairs are the only ones holding. Time to break out the wick and re-do those joints. I'm on the realist side that we need to maintain a little flexibility in those joints.....

And OF you should know better...those electrons eventually jump into the air and become free radicals!

-Z

Between us, I agree with the solder thing. "Real solder" has never failed me, scares me to think how many connections I made in my early years. Many millions easily. AFAIK not a single failure. OTOH, I've had quite a few problems with both 'green flux' and ROHS solder. I'm back to good old Kester (now that Weller is no more....). And this is one place an intermittent will cause a LOT of grief.

Yeah, I know all about that BS of electron freedom. They're not really free, they just think they are, first positive thing along and they get sucked in. Not well grounded, you know.

OF
 

bussinrounds

Well-Known Member
Yup. You just take the snap ring, squeeze the ends together with a snap ring pliers and put into the top hole. Once half way in, level it out horizontally and tap down with either the wooden tamp tool that was supplied with the newer PD's, or use the copper one that you can get from Rick over at Zapville. That's it. Good as new.
Should I be doing this if mine has a rattle to it also ? It's been like that for awhile and has been working fine.
 
bussinrounds,

HoneyAir

Well-Known Member
Once started, the rattle will only increase. It is best to stop it before it gets worse.

The increasing rattle makes it likely that the uninsulated wires will short out the powersupply, killing it. The continual mechanical strain also increases the likelihood that the resistor fails.
 
HoneyAir,

bussinrounds

Well-Known Member
Sorry Nick, but bad advice.

If you leave it rattling around like that, it will get worse a LOT quicker.
Ok. I see the link for the pliers. Anyone have a link for this Rick over at Zapville, so I can get the rings & tool ?
 
bussinrounds,

illnasty

Member
My PD fell off the shelf according to my roommates... Anyway, the internals are loose and rattling. Should I buy a few 1" retaining rings and maybe sand them down a bit to fix the rattling? The unit is still heating properly.

Edit: I also tried the reseating tool yesterday with no results.
 
illnasty,

nysuperscum

Well-Known Member
Three bowls into tonight, and I'm thinking. When my last PD broke a few months ago, I was upset and kind of angry. For several years, I thought my PD's would be the only vapes I would ever use again. I felt like I had paid for a three year warranty and that the makers of the PD had deceived and cheated me by shutting down abruptly and skating on their promise. Frankly, I still think they should have done the right thing and offered support for the promised warranty period. But, that being the case, a lot of good came out of it. I threw away my broken PD's and bought a Solo. Not only am I happy with my Solo, but the whole experience sort of got me off the spot, so to speak. While I was stuck on the PD, the world was continuing to progress, and there are some pretty awesome vapes out there now. Thanks to this board (where I am an infrequent poster but constant lurker) there's plenty of info on all kinds of new toys.

So, Tom and Pam, if you ever look at this thread, I want to thank you for shutting down. In a weird way you did me a favor. I also want to thank you for the great service you provided before you disappeared, and for selling the the device that convinced me vaping was, like, THE way to, you know, do what we do.
 

nilo

Well-Known Member
I know PD is out of business but I need more vapor tubes. Is there any other company that makes tubes that are perfect fit for PD?

My current vapor tube is clogged up real bad, any advice on how to clean it? Boiling hot water didnt do much.
 
nilo,

Vitolo

Vaporist
Soak it in Iso (91%) shaking it periodically.
carefully pick out debris with a needle or other pointy object, being careful not to mess up the screen.
If worse comes to worse force the screen out, and put another in its place.
NOW...
Who has stems that are a perfect fit?
ED'S TNT does!
You are in luck... I mean BIG TIME! At his website (not the main one, but the one he calls his "Shopping Cart" ), he has all of his Original wooden Zap stems on sale at 1/2 price.
Made for the MyrtleZap, these collectible wood stems fit the PD exactly.
When you get to the website, type in "vapor toke'n tubes" and you will see these... at 1/2 of what the rest of us all paid for them!
DSC00431-1.jpg

Photoon2011-06-29at10403.jpg
 

jeffp

psychonaut/retired
Iso works great and I've used Ed's stems for the PD and they are quite nice.
I don't see what the big deal is about changing a screen though. They pop out easy and positioning one in place is not at all difficult even for a spazz like myself. You work it in with a bamboo skewer or something like that and when it's secured you solidify the hold with the skewer from both ends, and you have essentially a new stem. Honestly changing a screen in my SSV wand is more of a challenge.

I've not done this because I have replacement screens, but if I did not I would buy a pack of regular head shop screens and use a hole puncher to make PD screens.
 

Ed's TnT

Woodsman
Manufacturer
Thanks for spreading the word Vito & Jeff! Yes I have a few left for the PD these work great for it and have a removable screened insert for easy cleaning. Once these are gone thats it! All are marked at half so get em while you can!
 
Ed's TnT,

OhTheAgony

here for the chicks
Ha, it seems I'm finally getting to know at least some of my woods.

I'm proud to say I ordered one of those too earlier this week :D
 
OhTheAgony,

Ed's TnT

Woodsman
Manufacturer
Glad you all dig my work above, that particular piece you saw Vito with was the best of the bunch, He was the first to jump on em way back when so the few I have left just have the creamy sapwood burl, still very nice pieces just not the two tone like his above. Am sure you will like it all the same.
 

OhTheAgony

here for the chicks
Yeah, I don't use it very often anymore (my portable needs vary a lot it seems), but I have a Solo too & wanted one of those stems for a while now. But I've spend a lot on vape stuff already lately & I got to take it easy for a bit.

I may order one next month though, I just hope he still has some of those Blue Mahoe CRZ stems left too at that time.. :cool:
 

djonkoman

Well-Known Member
and his dugouts are perfect for travelling/parties/concerts/festivals etc (not vape tough, but on concerts and festivals cobustion is more convenient IMO even tough it tastes bad)
 

OhTheAgony

here for the chicks
Oh yeah, I want one of those too, with one of those nice ebony bats..

Will you guys stop it now, this just keeps costing me money !@*$#!!@

Tom so would've hated all this off-topic chatter btw :lol:

but I'm afraid the mods do too, so I'll stop now :p
 
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