PBW & the Chemistry of Clean

Jman5280

Well-Known Member
My local shop gave me a pack of this stuff with a new bubbler I picked up. I noticed it's granular, does this stuff scratch glass ever? I see some people shake, and some people just let it soak, does shaking do a better job?
 
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Jman5280,

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
My local shop just have me a pack of this stuff with a new bubbler I picked up. I noticed it's granular, does this stuff scratch glass ever? I see some people shake, and some people just let it soak, does shaking do a better job?
Its a powder that dissolves completely in water so it won't scratch glass. Mix as you like. Some do it before and some, like me, do it "in vitro". Shaking was one of the things this thread was created to stop since it can lead to a lot of breakage. Shaking however, is mechanical energy being added to the cleaning cycle which helps. My OP had this info in it and much more . . . :nod:

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/pbw-the-chemistry-of-clean.7854/
 

Jman5280

Well-Known Member
Thanks T.

Does this stuff leave any residue that I need to be worried about? Or should a few rinses make it be good to go?

I hated with ISO that I would have to let it evaporate...this stuff is better than ISO right?
 

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
this stuff is better than ISO right?
Its way different. You are using here a combination of OxyClean and Sodium Metasilicate. One thing I would avoid is using too much chemical, too hot, for too long a dwell time with a "water line" involved where the chemical can leave a mark. Get it in, short dwell, get it out. Repeat as necessary.
 

Jman5280

Well-Known Member
Its way different. You are using here a combination of OxyClean and Sodium Metasilicate. One thing I would avoid is using too much chemical, too hot, for too long a dwell time with a "water line" involved where the chemical can leave a mark. Get it in, short dwell, get it out. Repeat as necessary.

Are you referring to the PBW is a chemical that shouldn't be used a lot? Or the iso? How long is too long?
 
Jman5280,

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Does it need to be very hot water? I just read a few pages and some people boil water, some do warm...

Thanks for your help!
Hot as you can get from the tap is enough

Don't let PBW sit for too long - I usually empty/rinse when the water goes 'clear'. If you let it sit for too long, you can get white lines where the water level sits (hence using plugs to stop the water and clear bubbles to prevent 'rings')

Keep in mind - use less PBW, and more 'soaks' for a better performance. On one of my very dirty pieces (from before my rezblock/CE days), took over 10 soaks before it started to look spotless. Now that I use CE every day, I have a spotless piece in three or less soaks.
 

Jman5280

Well-Known Member
Hot as you can get from the tap is enough

Don't let PBW sit for too long - I usually empty/rinse when the water goes 'clear'. If you let it sit for too long, you can get white lines where the water level sits (hence using plugs to stop the water and clear bubbles to prevent 'rings')

Keep in mind - use less PBW, and more 'soaks' for a better performance. On one of my very dirty pieces (from before my rezblock/CE days), took over 10 soaks before it started to look spotless. Now that I use CE every day, I have a spotless piece in three or less soaks.

What do you mean by rubber stoppers? I don't have those, but I was planning on just filling up and slowly and carefully swooshing the water around for a few minutes. This piece is going to be difficult to fill up all the way.

In the past I would usually clean my daily driver once or twice a week, and would cost me a bottle of ISO every couple times. This stuff seems a lot cheaper. Besides the white lines if left to sit to long, are there any other drawbacks? Any toxins in PBW?

My local headshop also have me a sample of KLEAR which I haven't been able to find much info on...anyone know how this compares to PBW?
 
Jman5280,

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
but I was planning on just filling up and slowly and carefully swooshing the water around for a few minutes.
If you do that protect your hands from chemical and thermal hazards. You will find that when wearing wet gloves, especially ones wet with PBW, things get slippery quickly and the lack of dexterity can lead to disaster. If you take the time to watch my videos you can see some of the solutions.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/hydratube-flush-device.7263/

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ht2px.jpg
 

Jman5280

Well-Known Member
If you do that protect your hands from chemical and thermal hazards. You will find that when wearing wet gloves, especially ones wet with PBW, things get slippery quickly and the lack of dexterity can lead to disaster. If you take the time to watch my videos you can see some of the solutions.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/hydratube-flush-device.7263/

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ht2px.jpg

Gloves? Chemical hazards? I'll watch the videos but this is sounding like it might be a bit much for my liking. With ISO I just shake a few times and rinse, it works for the most part ...
 
Jman5280,

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
Gloves? Chemical hazards? I'll watch the videos but this is sounding like it might be a bit much for my liking. With ISO I just shake a few times and rinse, it works for the most part ...
Do you get ISO on your hands during cleaning? If you do, then you are taking a risk. I can't come on a public forum and advocate for anything but total safety. Also, I am not an expert in chemistry or anything else. If I speak of anything on the Internet it is about what I do myself. I am in no way giving advice or consul. PERIOD. Watch the videos, read the testimonials, understand the science, and learn something. I'm going to bed . . . :zzz:
 

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I personally don't wear gloves when using PBW. But I've got a huge rubber bar sink mat in my concrete basement sink so that should save any accidental drops.... But be careful handling the glass - the point of PBW is to avoid the whole 'shake and break' scenario.

PBW is simple - Flush with hot water, empty, toss in some PBW, fill with water, let sit for 5-10 minutes, then flush with hot water. Rinse, repeat until glass is clean to your satisfaction

Rubber stoppers are not important, but they help when you want to give it a bit of a longer soak and don't want to risk white rings. You'll be fine without them, just keep your soak time to under 5-10 minutes.

You can always get any white PBW residue rings out by simply doing more PBW rinses.
 
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hafalump

Well-Known Member
An old towelie in the sink for padding:tup:
Keep PBW inside, rinse the outside, and no slip.
 
hafalump,

Jman5280

Well-Known Member
Will using to hot of water potentially break the glass?

I always feel like I'm about to drop the glass because it's so hot, and I have read of glass cracking...

I'm going to use PBW this afternoon on all my pieces, probably just going to hold it over the sink and try to keep the pbw inside the piece. I don't have gloves or padding...how slippery is this stuff? Does everyone use gloves and padding?
 
Jman5280,

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Will using to hot of water potentially break the glass?

I always feel like I'm about to drop the glass because it's so hot, and I have read of glass cracking...

Using hot water will not cause problems, as long as you don't immediately flush your glass with ice-cold water.

Like most all glass, going from very hot to very cold will cause the glass to shatter.

The only exception I can think of to this rule is the prince rupert glass drop
 
Delta3DStudios,
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DieHard

Accessory supplier
Accessory Maker
Using hot water will not cause problems, as long as you don't immediately flush your glass with ice-cold water.

Like most all glass, going from very hot to very cold will cause the glass to shatter.

The only exception I can think of to this rule is the prince rupert glass drop
Cool science! I'd love to see a high speed camera, slow mo shot of that.
 
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