OFFICIAL CONCENTRATE SAFETY THREAD DISCUSSION

stroh

errl enthusiast
okay so as i notice the concentrate section has become more popular and with new users popping up, i think that there needs to be a thread compiling information regarding the safety of concentrates, both in making/preparation, and in consumption. There is a lot of information out there that is regularly regurgitated throughout the interwebs, but sometimes things are lost in translation or not correctly conveyed. Without any formal studies conducted on this subject, none of us can be 100% certain on such matters, but thats not to say that we cannot educate ourselves to the best of our abilities so as to make the safest and best choice for ourselves regarding concentrates.

anyways lets begin our discussions;


to start it off, im going to attempt to debunk the age old mercaptan myth. Yes mercaptans are present in some brands of butane, though i hear many claim that they do not evaporate and are stuck in your oil forever. I have found absolutely 0 evidence supporting this, and trust me i've done a lot of research into this. i used to be extremely wary of making BHO, and only stuck to ISO for a good portion of my concentrate making career. (my avatar is actually a piece of ISO shatter, not BHO!)

This is silly to believe, as there is no evidence rooted in anything more than "purists" on messageboards who refuse to ingest anything not completely ital. Mercaptans begin to boil off (evaporate) at around 95 degrees F. Most everyone i know purges at temperatures above this, so i see no reason why mercaptans, organic compounds which are very similar to alcohols, structurally on a molecular level, would fail to evaporate while the rest of the solvent is able to evaporate just fine.

here is some more reading about mercaptans, which are more formally known as Thiols
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercaptan

Moving on, the main mercaptan of interest, ethyl mercaptan, or ethanethiol, is what is found in some commercial brands of butane, which is what gives nasty brands such as ronson its signature rotten eggs/sulfury smell, which aids in any leak detection. Wikipedia states that at these levels, ethanethiol is not harmful to humans, and please don't try and start an argument that wikipedia is not a reliable source, you may have had a point 5 years ago, but these days wikipedia is pretty darned reputable, with many colleges beginning to accept it as a citable source.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanethiol

also, here is the MSDS sheet for Vector 5x butane, under hazards (inhalation), it states that it is not toxic, and the largest risk you have of it harming you is due to oxygen displacement/asphyxiation. No mention of ethyl mercaptans listed, and i believe it too as the odor of vector is quite different than many other brands of inferior quality butane.

www.vectorkgm.com/catalog/butane/Vector_Gas_MSDS.pdf

now obviously this all should be taken with a grain of salt, i myself remain open to the possibility that butane may not be completely safe as a solvent, but until i come upon strong evidence and personal experiences that support this, i will continue to produce BHO for myself. I have only experienced negative effects from poorly purged dispensary bought oil, and from that day on i vowed to never again purchase a concentrate that i did not make with my own two hands. That is the only way one can be completely sure what is going in and coming out, and what kind of care is used during the purge procedure. That nasty disepensary budder smelled funky, so i melted it down and sure enough there was plenty of 'tane still trapped in it, and definitely some inferior quality butane used in its production. After vaping it, i experienced painful headaches and nausea, so i tossed that shit and took a little break from making oil. Since then, i have always made my own using vector butane, and i have never had an issue since. However, i also am not a very heavy dabber, i will maybe make a batch of .5-1g of oil, and that will last me a week or longer, so perhaps this is also a reason why i haven't experienced any negatives thus far.

but yeah hope this will put some myths and straight up uneducated claims to rest, and please contribute anything of worth, ideally we should all be as safe and informed as possible regarding concentrate making/ingestion, and i think we can get some good discussions and views from the good people here at FC!
 

weedemon

enthusiast
Here is Ethanol covered (based on what I have learned. Correct me if i`m wrong!) :

Ethanol comes in two forms. denatured (has poisonous chemicals added to stop people from drinking it) and pure(sometimes with water content added)

Now lucky for us the poisonous chemicals that they add will boil off also!

The product I bought: http://files.medisca.com/pdfs/en-ca/msds/ethanoldenaturedethylalcohol.pd

methyl alcohol [BP 65C]
http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927227
metyl isobutyl ketone [BP 116C]
http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927359
ethyl acetate [BP 77 C]
http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927165

so this means I must go to at least 116 degrees Celsius (i got to 125 just to be safe :) )and everything that my ethanol solvent is made of will evaporate!

You just need to find out what chemicals are in your solvent and see at what temp they will boil off at! (making sure that all of them will in fact boil off) in this case they appear to!

Ethanol is great at extracting the fats and waxes that you butane pulls out with it during the extraction. simply re dissolve your bho into ethanol. filter it, and re purge! you will lose some flavour this way, but you will also end up with a more pure product!
 
weedemon,

stroh

errl enthusiast
thanks for the contribution weedemon!

the same can be said for isopropyl alcohol, except the only difference is iso is already denatured and not for human consumption, so the only ingredients are isopropyl and the remaining percentage water.

Here is another thing i would like to mention as i have seen it recommended in the past, but here is my beef with budder.

Whipping or stirring your oil during the purge only TRAPS butane, it doesn't help purge it off, it simply mixes it deeper and deeper into your oil, making it harder to evaporate than when it was thinnest on your pyrex. Another thing to help purge off easier is to spray as thin as possible, use as large a surface area as possible so the oil has the largest diameter, and thinnest consistency possible. Use a torch to pop the stubborn bubbles, and keep the surface tension viscous enough for all of the butane to evaporate properly. (I assume a vacuum setup would eliminate the need for a torch as it lowers the atmospheric pressure so that the surface tension is also lowered by a great deal.)

Now that is not to say that you cannot make properly purged budder if you so desire that consistency, just don't take any short cuts in the purge process.
 
stroh,

CHEI

Medical Cannabis Inspector
Whipping or stirring your oil during the purge only TRAPS butane

agitation with the addition of heat would only increase the rate of purge.

I had a nice vac setup that I decided to remove from my process. The manifolds used in such purges can contain lead (mine did). Also the vac I used didn't remove all the butane even at full vacuum (mastercool 90066A w/Nalgene Vac Chamber). This can be misleading ending in trapped butane inhalation (happened to me). Further heating/whipping was required to remove all the tane. Extraction experts sells a vac chamber but I decided to go with a different setup for quantity reasons. I'd be curious to hear of any sucesses with vac chambers. With whipping and stirring there is no need to torch your oil. Simply stir or whip until no more bubbles can be seen. Some claim that the bubbles are "terpenes" in certain oil. I've found that if I vaped oil with any visible bubbles whatsoever that there IS butane left. I can taste it/see it/feel it in my lungs.

If you overheat the bubbles will never cease popping and you'll never get your oil purged correctly. One tip that I've used is to pour a bit of warm/hot water into the purging bho near the end of the purge. I also recommend taking the pot on and off the double boil for it to cool a bit.

One thing to remember about budder is that it can come in a variety of consistencys. In my reseach I have found that people who are dissmisive of budder because they "dab" and prefer a consistency that works well for this tech. Budder can break like chalk or roll into balls that can stick to dabbers.

The end product of BHO will mainly be related to the material used in the extraction. BHO results in a variety of forms one of which is budder.

I hope this post made an acceptable contribution.

Also wouldn't redissoving BHO in ethanol also dissolve THC? I have made BHO countless times but am not familiar with this tech.


For more info on budder tech see CHEI's budder method if you can find it.
 
CHEI,

CHEI

Medical Cannabis Inspector
Another note about bho. I clearly have been having ill effects from it (see quitting bho thread). I use a stainless steel extractor made by okief that I've had for a while. I think it may be the SS and so now I am going to try to find a glass tube (although it seems more dangerous imo) in hopes that it stops the effect.
 
CHEI,

WatTyler

Revolting Peasant
agitation with the addition of heat would only increase the rate of purge.

I had a nice vac setup that I decided to remove from my process. The manifolds used in such purges can contain lead (mine did). Also the vac I used didn't remove all the butane even at full vacuum (mastercool 90066A w/Nalgene Vac Chamber). This can be misleading ending in trapped butane inhalation (happened to me). Further heating/whipping was required to remove all the tane. Extraction experts sells a vac chamber but I decided to go with a different setup for quantity reasons. I'd be curious to hear of any sucesses with vac chambers. With whipping and stirring there is no need to torch your oil.

I don't think you can blame the vac chamber at all- it's certainly not anywhere near as misleading as budder can be IME. Heat and agitation will help purge quicker, but I think the problem seems to be if it budders before the butane has fully purged.

I find the vac purging is still an active process- I just use a hand vac pump and brake bleed jar to do a few grams at a time, but I find that I need to soften and bring the oil up to vacuum pressure several times to fully purge the oil- not a case of just exposing it to a vacuum and expecting it to do all the work itself.

....Simply stir or whip until no more bubbles can be seen. Some claim that the bubbles are "terpenes" in certain oil. I've found that if I vaped oil with any visible bubbles whatsoever that there IS butane left. I can taste it/see it/feel it in my lungs..........

.....If you overheat the bubbles will never cease popping and you'll never get your oil purged correctly.

Not sure if I'd agree with this bit either. Bubbles do not mean butane IMO. It all depends what temperature you're at and what's still left in the oil. They can be terps as you mention or, as I think a lot of them could be, CO2 bubbles resulting from THCA decarbing.
 
WatTyler,
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